Damn Ron, you gonna let that "relay comment" slide. I remember when you were good for a couple of paragraphs on that one. Elyut, if you're a CSOB pm me. I've got a set of engine rubber seals 1 yr old, I won't be needing.

You can pick on me about the RTV under the head washers because they were done by FAT Performance. I put the "T" in the brake line. What the hell is wrong with that. You can pick on me any time because I know how much you love me. Besides, I think you might know a little more about this car than I do.

Mid-rise lift makes a good work bench.

I hope I remember how all this shit goes back together?

Both the rocker arm assemblies are totally clean. I thought there would be more gunk in there. You know, besides all that orange shit.

When you pull the rocker assemblies get 8 each 5/16 bolts about 3" long. As you start to pull the rocker assemblies off the studs, push the bolts thru the stud holes. This will keep the rocker assemblies assembled and you merely slide the assemblies over the studs which will push the bolts out. Saves a bunch of time reassembling the rocker assemblies if you let them fall apart.

Before you pull the heads make sure you get the cheese head screws out of the block that holds the warm air guide under the cylinders. Heads won't come off otherwise.

but I know you know all of this.

Thanks Ron. I haven't done this in about 8 years. Considering the fact that I can't remember what I had for lunch today, your advice comes at the right time.

Paint the rest of it yellow...

I hope you tagged your push rods, and if you pull(ed) the lifters, you tag(ged) them as well ... so they go back in where they originally came from


I'm pretty sure that Rob was referring to YOU about driving your 914 more than anyone else he knows. There's a lot of folks that have never seen me drive one, and probably think I only own a couple of Toyota trucks

I saw you drive one once ... poorly, but you drove it.

And Elleyot, even though you're a Vegan

"My candle burns at both ends;
It will not last the night;
But ah, my foes, and oh, my friends—
It gives a lovely light.

So we've heard...

... and it's a blue flame, or so I've heard

Click to view attachment




They call me mellow yellow ...

Click to view attachment

Elliot; Make sure when you disasemble that you use a vac to get all that silicone out of that engine. Mine was sealed like that when I broke it down and as careful as I was to get it all, The first oil change after 20 minutes of running there was some silicone at the strainer. I'm sure it was from the pushrod tubes that were sealed like yours at the block.

Thinking about it, my motor only had 39,000 when it failed. Maybe the silicone shortens the motor life. It did not drip any oil though. Get it running.

That is the problem with using RTV in areas where shards can break off and get into the oil. Being semi soft, they can pass thru the strainer and potentially plug an oil feed to a bearing.

If you're going to use it, apply tighten what ever and wipe clean what squeezes out when installing whatever and use a very small amount to begin with.

I used to use toilet paper to clean bearings prior to install because it doesn't leave lint. Lost an engine due to a small piece of asswipe plugging a rod bearing feed.

I finally got the head off. These are cylinders two and one respectively. Does it look like cyl. two has been burning some Mobil 1? Number one is much better although it shows it's been running a little rich maybe? I really don't have the experience to tell. I'm pretty sure about number two though.

The cylinder walls look pretty good to me. I can't see any scoring. Both one and two look great.

I pulled out one of the ceramic valve lifters. After 25,000 miles they look just like they did when I installed them about 8 years ago. Thanks Clayton, (where ever you are).

I'll be pulling the other head off soon and figure out where to take them to be worked on. I still can't see how oil got into the combustion chamber although I think the valve guides are a good bet to this amateur. I don't have a spring compressor to remove the valves. I'll let someone else do that. While the heads are being done, I guess about a case of carb. cleaner might get a lot of the gunk off. Maybe get some stuff powder coated so it looks clean at least for awhile.

Elliot are those 94 or 96mm pistons?

Not much wear .... you can still see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls. Looks good to go to me.

96 pistons and 76 crank.

Can you see the valve guide on the vale in question from the top?
Inside the spring?

It has dual springs and I can't see anything.

Whoever used RTV needs to be tarred and feathered in public. If you use anything on the push-rod tubes only use 'Thread sealant'. It does not cure like RTV and won't plug anything up.

As for the case/cylinder mating surfaces Curil K2

What P/C set was used? Any idea?

The following should suite you well:

http://aapistons.com/shop/vw-piston-and-cy...914-type-4.html