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colingreene
While trying to troubleshoot my ignition issues, I had a backfire and this happened.

Anyone have a distributor solution that's not a 123 you like, My Mallory seems to be my issue. Watching the ignition with a timing light it just dies off and comes back without anything being a determining factor.
I checked engine to battery ground, power to the coil with a test light while running.
Battery charge level. Plugs, cap, rotor, points are all new. Dwell is set correctly.
it just dies randomly. I cant trust the car at all.
Drove it a little today and like i said, had a back fire from the spark cutting in and out and this happened today.

So this should be a fun fix. popped a hole in my SSI.
jim_hoyland
The zmallory optical dizzy is notorious for intermittent performance when the module is weak. I went through this for a couple of months, all the time thinking the module was ok. Soon as I replaced it, problem solved… smile.gif
colingreene
QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ May 9 2021, 07:16 PM) *

The zmallory optical dizzy is notorious for intermittent performance when the module is weak. I went through this for a couple of months, all the time thinking the module was ok. Soon as I replaced it, problem solved… smile.gif



It is a points distributor.
colingreene
Bought a cheap distributor to put in the car to isolate the ignition issue.
Runs fine now, curve sucks but its drivable.
Since its a points distributor I guess ill change the condenser again and see how it goes.
This motor is due to be pulled and sold any day now. I have a 2.8L twin plug to be assembled and put int.
Just need more time thats all.
colingreene
Somehow managed to get about 3 weeks of time to work on the motor that I planned on putting into this car so here are some pictures.

I am building a Mag case 2.8L meaning 92 bore 70.4 stroke.
Yes I know its probably a hand grenade but it is what it is.
Mark sold me the 2.7 core motor in I want to say 2015 or somewhere around there.
And Here and there little by little I have worked on it or bought parts.
Most of what put me off was I bought a 911 in the mean time and that needed a motor.
Since the 914 ran it was less of a priority to fix than the 911 that while it did run would knock on even 100 oct fuel.

I am using CP pistons with a coating DC60 or 65 Cams. All of my machine work has been done by Competition engineering.

That is not to say that this engine build has been without its bugs.

This is what the core motor looked like when I removed the heads.
The motor refused to turn over completely when i bought it. Turned out someone slightly bent the valves and that was the cause. No matter it turned clean now. however it was far from clean.
colingreene
Luckily for me I was able to have a friend who now has his own engine building shop allow me to use some of his shop space.
he and I are both people who generally prefer to work in our own way but happily we get along fantastic.
While I assembled the motor under his guidance I ate all of his famous amos cookies.
Pretty soon it was starting to look like a motor. This lead us to our first problem

Originally I sent my case up to Competition engineering paid my bill and when it was returned no machine work had happened. Errors happen and luckily Walt is great.
I returned the case had it machined and it made its way back to me.
Ultimately we did find that the main bearing clearance was a bit on the big side however I chose to run a large oil pump and considered it to be safe. It was only a few tenths of a mm out.
Crank and rods mated up perfect. The crank measured out absolutely as new. A lucky score for me. Marine crank shaft had cleaned and polished it for me as well as balanced it.

I spent a ton of time mixing and matching pistons, wrist pins, rods together in order to get all of the rotating mass within .5 of a gram. Happy with that I began assembly.



colingreene
Next came laying out the case.
After I cleaned it years ago I had found a good deal on a 964 Oil pump.
This pump was never designed to go into this 2.7L case but uh, nothing a big ole grinder and some time cant fix.
We got it to clear and we were good to go.
However during this In my "replace all the wear items" phase I had bought some gears for the Intermediate shaft. Turns out they are garbage and would have grenaded the motor.
Thanks to Cornelius for this bit of info. I being the wise and annoying person that I am had kept all of the original parts so i simply swapped them back. they were not in the best of shape since someone had been in the motor before me and shimmed the cams and timing chain alignment poorly.
Once that was taken care of at a neighboring shop (They had a D type!)
we were on to lay out.
I am using the Iwiss racing chains the 964 pump and have ARP rod bolts for the rods.
That covers all the internals meaning I get to find my next set of problems.
Progress is often slow while we are doing this via its a working shop or I am plain screwing off. With that We had the case sealed up in no time. I was playing "we belong together" as we did the work. Hope that helps.
76-914
Sweet looking motor. A clean and tidy shop speaks well of the builder. Will this throw a hitch in smogging the 76? beerchug.gif
colingreene
As I live in Minnesota the car has Minnesota plates.
Optimusglen
And, for those who are unaware, there are no smog requirements in MN.

Looking forward to the 6 dude!
Maltese Falcon
You're in the Greatest of hands with Cornelius overseeing your 2.8 project driving.gif
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colingreene
Once the case was assembled we moved onto checking the compression ratio and setting the deck height.
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While trying to set the deck height it became apparent that the cyls would not fit into the case, however this was not the fault of the cyls.
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Turns out via some phone calls that the machine shop I used places the case savers .25mm further out. this in fact then adds up to a small but significant .5mm.
As with any problem its never just one thing, I following the advice of Cornelius and other notable names we like my last flat 6 build chose to use 993 studs.
Only plan of action became to open up the holes on the cyl for the larger studs
not fun.



The goal here was to meet or slightly exceed 10.5:1
Unfortunately either our measuring skills were not good or something was wrong.
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we kept coming up with somewhere around 9.5:1 not a bad number but not what I had asked for And not what the piston information card indicated.
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Luckily for us CP Carillo is right up the road. after some back and forth on the phone about the issue and how we measured I dropped off a piston to have them confirm what the piston exactly was.
Unfortunately it turned out they were made incorrectly. The base piston was in fact a 9.5 however the modified file never made it to the CNC machine that cut these.
They agreed to build me another set of pistons however it was going to take 3-6 weeks.
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I Just have received them back but it will be a bit before I can get back onto this.
Of course this means my 4 cyl motor was being fussy after being parked on a incline. Unsure if that's a artifact of 44IDF carbs. If anyone knows let me know.

And a picture of the valve spring set up on the heads.
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colingreene
Somehow I chopped this picture out of the last post.
This is a Semi current picture of what the car looks like as of right now.
tygaboy
Now hold on a minute... OT, but having just sold my E9, I have to ask about the 3.0 CS /Batmobile wing in that pic. Your car?
colingreene
That is a real batmobile, not my car.
It does have a S38 3.8L on weber side drafts.

If you remember from a while ago about Adam Carolla selling one? this is that car.
I worked for the person who bought it and wound up doing a ton of work to it to get it race ready.
He also has a E9 street car with a S52 in it. its really beautiful and he uses it as his daily driver. Ive driven it a fair bit and its about the right amount of power for that car.
It was built for him by a friend (Jeff Tighe) who also built a white S54 powered car. That car was a monster.
Optimusglen
That's a cool garage space, is that up here in MN or back in CA?

Those pistons look so nice, you have the new ones back now?
colingreene
The picture of the car in the shop was back from when it was in California.
As far as the pistons go, I do have them back I just need to make time to go home and continue to put it together.
First the overcrest rally.
Optimusglen
QUOTE(colingreene @ Sep 5 2022, 09:28 PM) *

The picture of the car in the shop was back from when it was in California.
As far as the pistons go, I do have them back I just need to make time to go home and continue to put it together.
First the overcrest rally.



aktion035.gif aktion035.gif aktion035.gif
colingreene
I'm just going to keep adding to this because why not.
After a while I made it back to California for like a month. Ultimately the motor is closed up and finished and that's what these next pictures will be detailing.
I was going to dump the motor into my 911 and see if i can break it in in that car while i do some work on my 911 motor but, things don't always go according to plan.
Oh well. ill be back at it in about a month.
Not having a job right now is both good and bad. Luckily a lot of the parts if not all of the parts have been bought for this over the years so its not costing me a ton of money. That makes all of this easier.

I found this picture I took when building my 911 motor and I found it a fun example of how different a flat 6 motor really is from the type 4.
CG-914 and his wife were in the middle of rebuilding a type 1 motor at the same time we were doing the 911 motor.
Im happy to say that motor is running pretty well and is a daily driver now.

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I have new pistons staged and ready for assembly and carried on opening up the stud holes on the cyls to make everything fit.

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This included having to clearance the base gaskets as well.
We re shot the deck height and checked compression.
A single 1.0MM spacer was all I needed thankfully making it easy to clearance.

Final compression ratio came out at 10.60:1 Should have a ample amount of pop in a 914.
Once all the cyls were fit into the case, about two days of work I was ready to put pistons on and carry on. that will be the next post.


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colingreene
Oh and as far as the E9 stuff I am more than willing to take a slight detour,

Here are some pictures of the car you can see in the backround.
It as mentioned was Adam Carollas car. He bought it and promptly never did much of anything with it.

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We found several problems with it the short list being way too much fuel pressure, shit exhaust quality, fuel cell foam dying, rear diff pulling the structure apart in the car.
I did manage to find the original engine builder, its a 3.8 with about 13:1 compression and should make right around 400 hp.
The current owner also had a Street driven E9, the black one seen here with a S52 put into it. car has bluetooth, AC and all the modern stuff you would hope for without being even remotely obvious about it

The guy doing these street cars also had built one of my fave street cars ever
A CSL look alike with real CSL interior and a S54 inside. To say the car is bonkers at full throttle is pretty fitting. but the owner put a ton of hard miles on it without ever really having any problems. We did suspect that it is a bit much on the chassis however since they are not known for being stiff..

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colingreene
Gotta start somewhere right so here we go.
one on 5 to go.

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So, Do you remember having to have another set of pistons made?
It would seem that I came up short on a wrist pin clip because I left one of them in the pistons I bought back to CP, Leading to this picture. 5 cyls on.

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I had to run back to CP to go get another clip. Once We had all of those on i was ready to build the heads onto the cam towers.

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To do the cam towers i wound up pulling the tubes the plugs and everything i could get my hands on then vapor blasting and washing over and over and over and over to get it cleaned. I was really excited to see a nice looking orange squish once these were all torqued together.

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next I have to mount the heads and chain boxes. Hopefully with the tight fitting cyls it wont be a big problem getting it all to seat together.





colingreene
Fortunately for me, with a good plastic hammer and some patience i was able to get the heads and cam towers down and seated.

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I don't think that I have a detail picture of it but when building these motors twin plugged
clearance around the plug can get tight due to the cylindrical profile of the factory headnut. I ran into this on my 911 engine.

On later motors that came from the factory twin plugged such as the 964 they had a different profile nut. I did buy a set of those only to find out the holes in the small motors 2.7 and down they do not fit into the cut pockets.

What should I do? I found out that ARP will sell loose nuts. (insert joke there)
They are crown shaped and smaller this allows really nice clearance around the spark plug to remove and install them. Going to do that on my other motor when I get the chance. If anyone needs a set of 6 let me know I have them hanging around. Ill sell them for whatever they cost me per nut when I bought 20 of them.

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Next was to attach the chain boxes, note the routing of the chains around the post in the boxes. added the chain ramps and hoped for the best.
However once I did that I realized I forgot to put the plug into the end of the cam housing Off came the chain housing to re install the plug and seal it up with some 574.
Next up get the cams ready and cleaned up.
For this build I went with some Dougherty DC60s. Hopefully I wont hate it.
I have found limited information that talks about how these idle and run guess we will find out.

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Next up is the important process of shimming the cam end play. If you go back and look before the case is closed up you will see that the chain runs on either side of the main shaft gear. The goal here is to get the measurements equal in order to not have any side load on the chain gears. When i originally disassembled this motor i could tell someone did not take the time and care to do this and the sprockets showed signs of wear due to being misaligned.



colingreene
Once the cam endplay is determined we can move on to attempting to time the cams.
Its not hard, its just tedious.
Since my other motor has the "late" style cam bolts when i ordered these cams that is what I asked for.

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Obviously I tend to make some unconventional choices when doing this and I skipped the carrera tensioners so I had rebuilt the mechanicals and put them right in.
Ultimately we wound up with 4.99mm lift on one side and 4.95 on the other.
The cams say to set at 5.0 with a range up to 5.2 down to 4.7.
I figure its close enough for my purpose.

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Here is a earlier picture of my motor going together along side a hot rod 2.4.

As per usual that was not the end of my problems. the machine shop that did the case had some issues with installing this thread insert on the oil bypass piston, I had to get in there and pack it with paper towels and hand finish the end of this. Of course I did not notice this till the motor was mostly together. way to go me.

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colingreene
So with a bunch of clever filing and cleaning up of the oil pressure bypass plug I was able to get the plug to thread as you can see in the below picture.
Its irritating that after spending a ton of money on machine work that I had to remediate on several points.
I could just be salty or something but Its all fixed now.

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With this thread I think at this point I am mostly doing it for myself so Ill post whatever I have.
I did get the motor timed as mentioned and the cam boxes closed up.
That was a nice feeling being able to know that serious progress had been made.
We also stuck the distributor into the motor in order to be able to determine where top dead center is.

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After this the only things really left to do would be to install rockers, set lash and turn it over a bunch.
So that's where we went. Installed the rockers, turned it over probably 20 times and then checked lash again. I expect that Ill have to re set it again in about 1000 miles as all the parts in that realm are new and need to wear together. No big deal.
I also chose to not put any form of sealant on the valve covers since I knew i would be in there pretty much immediately.

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Once the motor was closed up I unfortunately had to leave again.
I bought a 951 that needed some attention and my friend Jake has some 911 and also 951 projects that he needed assistance with.
Oh and I was lucky enough to be able to spend a day going to South Dakota to get Glenn a new daily driver/tow vehicle. I'm always happy to help friends where I can. Plus like, its Glen, hes the best.
colingreene
So here it is fully sealed up and ready to go into a car.
I think my tentative plan is to put it into my 911 and break it in.
It has the fuel and cooling system to manage it and more importantly the car is closer to the motor than my 914 is.

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Ill have to create a new wiring harness for the 914 and buy a connector for it to the relay board. I think that ill keep it since I like the look of it. and I dont really want to re invent the wheel when it comes to that area of the car.
I do however need to find a place for the twin CDI boxes and coils that will need to be mounted for the ignition. I am actually opposed to mounting them in the trunk but I am sure I will think of something. if anyone has an idea I am always open to it. and pictures are helpful.

With that being said the fan shroud that came with the motor had some damage and it had a ton of holes I do not think ill need so a bunch of time repairing it was poured into it. Luckily for me my dad is talented with fiberglass and was able to repair the broken sections and get it cleaned up. Its being painted the factory green. Ultimately I may replace it with a amber shroud but its not high on the priority list.

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colingreene
So like the old TV shows often had what we have here is a crossover episode.
Now this next move may not win me a lot of popularity but I also have a 911.
That being said this motor I am building for my 914 is in California as is my 911.
I want to put it into my 914 but i don't have a front oil cooler for it yet or the fuel system needed to feed the motor. I do own the fuel system but i have done an admirable job failing to install it.

The bad news is my 911 has been consuming a large quantity of oil after a rebuild.
If anyone has any interest in the story all of that information is in the build thread below. I feel like I somewhat outgrew the thread title fairly quickly but I am stuck with it now.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...-questions.html

My tentative plan was to remove my 911 motor and tear it down and put my 914 motor into the car in order to break it in, tune it and verify everything is good to go before I stuff it into the 914 chassis.

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So that's what I did over this Christmas break. Clearly this motor started its life being placed into a 911 chassis so its not the end of the world that its going back into one. however I'm not sure I want it to be used to being backwards from the proper orientation.

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Things to note, I did refurbish the fan but I found out quickly that not all alternators and fan rings have the same offset or depth, so i have a mismatched fan in there in order to maintain the 911 alternator with the chassis. I did not want to rewire for a temporary (we will see how long that lasts) situation.
And I also decided to re use the spark plug wires but the orientation had made it somewhat messy due to the order being changed a bit. Thinking about this I probably could have solved it but I was in a hurry.

The motor now has only about 160 miles on it but its better than nothing.

I do have a 914-6 engine mount that welds in I bought from McMark years ago, however due to the spec of the motor I have some pause about if its the appropriate mount based on the power output of this 2.8.
with this motor in the 911 its certainly healthy and pushes the car along with authority.
I was considering buying a mad dog mount for its wider stance. I wanted to skip anything that was a solid mount or near solid since I do plan on driving the car frequently once its all together. I did when it was a 4 so i dont see any reason for that to change with a 6 cyl.
So, what I am saying is I would not mind hearing opinions about this situation I have gotten myself into.

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colingreene
Bummer no one has any feed back about my engine mount question.

Just popping in to update that once again my car is having ignition problems on the 4 cyl.
Going to do some more trouble shooting but it eventually ate that cheap chineese 009 knock off distributor i put into it.
this lead me to take the "reliable" 951 shit box I bought to work. for the favor it decided to try to idle at 2k.

I'm wondering if i have a voltage regulator issue where its overcharging the battery and the extra current is destroying the points.
Any one ever experience a bad voltage regulator on the high side?
outside of that I don't have any ideas why its continuing to destroy ignition component's but nothing else.

I did recently replace the 5 year old interstate battery and I did check the current output at idle but unfortunately i was not smart enough to also rev the motor up.
however at idle it was making 13.5 volts so nothing crazy.
Symptoms are exactly the same. missing bucking backfiring all the usual suspects.
DRPHIL914
Good to see you getting close to completion and installation!.
No comment on the mounts, i have no experience with the /6 , none-the-less, a great write up its fun to follow along, ive got to re assemble my original /4 motor sometime soon so following other motor build threads is educational and motivational.

Phil
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