all of these 2.0 heads (at least many) have cracks
you can buy brand new heads or fix the cracks
1k for rebuilding heads is common in my experience and it can go higher....

with such a significant investment, opening up the valves is common (more $$) with big displacement

we used to run 38/48 on a stock displacement 2.0 race motor.

... Me too

I have a set of '75 2.0L heads. I'll check them out next week and let you know what condition they're in.

I also have a complete '75 2.0L long block that I got from Bruce Stone a few years ago I haven't tore into yet ...


Also, I see where you asked "If the KS stock Cyls are good quality why swap to a larger piston?"

Even this minimal increase in displacement (94~96mm), a little more compression and a more aggressive cam will really make it come alive. I haven't dyno'd my 2056 yet, but it should be doing close to 125 hp (KB pistons, Raby 9580 cam, 9:1 CR)

The quote to repair the heads was just over 2400
it was quite a bit more than i expected by about double.

Euro, Any word on those heads or should i Pm you?

Call Len Hoffman - http://www.hamincgroup.com/type4.php -- about new heads, he sells through
Jake Raby's web store and honestly you'll be spending less than those rebuild heads cost.
You could certainly find a usable set of 2.0L heads for less than what it costs to buy new but you
may not find them quickly. And those used heads may be needing to be rebuilt sooner than later anyway.
My 2 cents, spend the money now on new heads and enjoy your engine for a long time!

It was a consideration.
I did look at the bill for 2400 and go yeah no.
just no.
Ultimately If i did not get stuck with a crank for a type4 id probably be putting the less ugly bumpers on it and a 3.0L Sc motor in it.
Oh well.
a good running type 4 should work ok.

I didn't get to the shop at all last the week (to much other BS going on). I WILL be going this week ... a lot of parts and supplies were delivered here - and have to go there.

IIRC, the heads only have about 4k on them.

I live in So.Cal. and have a 76' I daily drive 90+ miles a day. You can PM me if you have any concerns. My car is stock engined and passes smog no problem. I also use a local shop in Chatsworth for all my gearbox needs.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=203702&hl=

Heads for a big 4. Maybe too big?
I have no connection with seller.

Who wants to charge you 2400 in machine work on a pair of heads?
Have you asked other machine shops to look at the heads?

Local shop in california known well for its type 4 work.
They told me 3 out out of 4 spark plug holes were damaged and needed to be repaired so that was around 300
and all 4 exhaust ports were cracked so that was another 300 plus as well as replacing the exhaust studs was another 300. apparently they couldn't be removed conventionally and needed to be drilled and replaced. as well as 50$ each to replace the seats. one of the guide bosses was also trashed as well.
All of it adds up to me finding out as much as the previous owner said the car ran great it had numerous problems that were not addressed and he just drove it because it started.
Frustrating but too often is the case.

Understandable that its a old head and needed work but it was just more than what i was comfortable with paying as soon as i found out the heads were cracked.
ill have to pm the guy in the link for the heads but its highly likely ill work something out with euro 911 as i have bought stuff from him before and hes local so it works great for both parties. I know him to be a solid guy.
Some other stuff transpired where I now have a 78mm stroker crank so ill probably use that if i have it.
Id rather do a 6 but either way its going to cost a ton.
a 2270 should run ok.

And I am set on the transmission, I just got it back today. Finally.
its nice and tight and ready to go when ever i get my pile of parts together.

What do you guys think of a full carrera front end that bolts in with the brakes for 400
too much or good deal>?
The same guy also has a 914/6 hes looking for 15k if anyone is interested.

That's a good deal Colin

Thanks, I guess ill get on that.
I am starting to clearance my rods to the case, my dad is worried that Ill need new rods.
he thankfully is my engine builder. having done a few before.

IIRC, the rods to the case is not usually a problem.

One of the rods to one particular cam lobe is more often a problem...

--DD

Understood,

I am waiting on my cam to come from Web, so that way i can make sure everything is A ok.
Im sure it will be tight.
but i explained what i was doing and they seemed confident that it would all work.

its getting there!
been working next to this the past few days. I really like it.

So since my last update i decided to ditch the stock rods because clearing the case with these and my +7mm of stroke was not happening.
Because of that I had to buy different pistons, as the pins are a different size.
Of course that means I bought bigger pistons, I bumped it 2mm Any larger and i felt like it would be getting out of hand.
Like the RMW stroker motors most of the power gain and drivable power comes from the additional stroke not the bore size increase,
While I could build this out to a even 3L i stuck with a 96mm x 78mm Stock bore was 94mm and stock stroke was a paltry 71.
Meaning my displacement went from 1971cc to 2258cc. I also added a much bigger and nasty Web Cam ( gotta be careful googling that)
Since had to move the car from its first parking place to another because reasons.
And now the pictures. Re assembly has begun, got the case sealed together tonight so next up is Pistons and cyls then heads.
Sticking with stock heads for now, because of two reasons. Money and really they flow pretty damn good stock. my friend flowed my spare set....

Straight cut cam gears?

Yes its a straight cut cam gear, I also have dual thrust bearings for the cam because ive had problems with cam thrust in the past.
Hopefully it wont be horridly loud, if it is ill just add some dynamat.

It'll be loud. Straight cut gears whine.

Im aware, I am not super worried about it. I probably wont drive the car all that much.
I was only building this motor as a half measure I am working on someone to sell me a motor....
Though he needs to check his PM's
I need a 6 cyl.

Yeah, yeah

I need to convince the 'Minister of Homeland Renovations' that I need a two-week break

We're getting ready to have our house fumigated (it's been 12 years since it was done last) ... problem is, one of Pepé Le Pew's cousins took up residence under the house sometime during the past couple of weeks
Click to view attachment
I set up some wireless cameras and finally spotted the critter leaving (just past midnight), so I secured the point of entry (unfortunately, AFTER it left a blast of what smelled like some potent skunkweed under the house). Being springtime, we're not sure if it has some youngin's living down there too

So, with time being of the essence, I got me an RC tank and outfitted it with some recon equipment today (LED lighting and a wireless camera)... I'll be deploying it under the house to asses the situation tomorrow.


Click to view attachment


Yeah, it's not a 914 ... but it is a German Panzer

Thats seriously bad ass.
Sorry about the skunk problem.
I had to "take care of" a rat in my yard the other day with my bow.

Got the heads on, Shimming the endplay is becoming a pain in the arse though.
I am going to need some serious help when it comes to putting the tin all together.
and doing the t stat.
Little by little im getting there.

So some updates, Motor is nearly done and ready to go into the car.
Having trouble finding some odds and ends like intake gasket and clutch pressure plate bolts. If anyone knows where to find this stuff let me know. I cant find it anywhere. Im also having trouble with the nuts to fasten the exhaust manifolds. i ordered some from bmw but they are too small.
Also need to find the pins that hold the cable to the caliper for the parking brake and re attach that and change my bum parking brake cable.


but i also had to address my failed rear wheel bearing so i did that today with some tools that had to be borrowed ( Thank you so much B Stone) however once the tools were correctly applied it was no sweat at all.
I am inherently super lazy, why work hard when you can make something else do the work for you.
this theory often also makes sure that you don't damage things.
Since i did not want to pull the trailing arm from the car i really did not want to damage anything.

My garage has turned into a paint workshop painting engine tin and random other parts.
Thanks to the baseboard rack i have somewhere to hang all this excess shit.




Arthur is always sending me motivation, as he spotted a 914 out on the street in the wild, Proof that they dont only exist on jack stands.


Motor closed up and ready to have the tin put on.


Close up of the thermostat cable and air flaps. Without this the motor wont regulate temp properly. Sucked to buy as it was 134$!

and a shot of how the fan and shroud work to deliver the cooling air to the motor and oil cooler.



tin mostly on. Its all on right now i just dont have pictures of it yet. Still waiting for a damn alternator.





Special tools, Ill take pictures of me doing the next one i guess.

Nice build but I must warn you that HP is highly addictive. I'll bet you a glass of wine that you're flirting with a 6 soon.

Its always been a thought but In order to do that Id want like 275 hp.
that means either a 993 motor or custom building something and thats just not a option right now.
Goal is to get it running asap so the car is no longer a storage concern and i can drive it.

Looking good, Colin. Maybe sell one of your thirty other cars to buy a six?

Just a thought.

anyone recognize this master cyl though?

Original MCs were ATE with a 17mm bore. Getting a little harder to find a new 17mm for a good price these days, but 19mm are still plentiful.

I was told this was a 19? I dont know for sure though.

Look around on it for numbers. There should be a "17" or a "19" on the top side, I believe. You'll need a mirror and a flashlight to see if the MC is still installed.

--DD

Ah neat thanks, ill have a look at it tomorrow.

Whats left of the 14 year old gas that was in my old tank, thats also borked.

and while i went out to get parts and dispose of the fuel this happened right next to me.
This is not how you E92




rear brakes needed to be rebuilt since they did not want to have a working hand brake, also one of the cables was freying, good thing i have a press at home, had to press the adjuster back into the piston.
Thanks to Eric for the parts to do that. hes honestly awesome for all the help he gave me ill always appreciate that.



Got those on and bled.



Heat exchangers, Mine of course were cracked and poorly repaired.
so cue the music and heres the next project.
all finished up, Had to beat some galvanized sheet metal to form to the end, and used some aluminum bar stock to pull the case halfs together and give it some rigidity.




Now back to the battery tray issue.
Everyone knows I like to hit things with a hammer, so that skill ( If you want to call it that) worked out great for this next bit.
because I lack a welder at home and i did not want to cut the fender off the car and the side of the engine bay out i elected to put a patch in, obviously because someone hates me (i know who) the firewall where the battery tray is not flat. Means i had to make this.



used this to braze the corners where the metal needed to be brought in.



ill be honest, i just bought a new battery tray, re attached my original ECU bracket to it and blasted and re painted my battery stand and stuck that all sort of together.
the other spare part you see in this picture is the patch to go on the wheel well side of the firewall, and thats flat. who knows why.
i used a sealant and more rivets than i probably needed to hold it all together.



And finished off, before paint.


Of course all hell broke loose when i had to change the speedo cable.
Since my car is a 76 it means its subject to californias emissions standards of the time.
it had a cat and it had a oxygen sensor. Not anymore! but weirdly that means i have a retarded speedo cable set up. It feeds from the trans to a box in the passenger footwell then to the speedo.
Homie dont play dat.
I just bypassed it. however it required some interesting perspective to get the work done.




I cant say that was fun to stuff though the center tunnel.

and i re packed the front bearings since they sat for 12 years and who knows what kind of shape that grease was in.
And replaced the rubber hoses to the calipers.
Im not into flintstone mode.....
They were harder than a pedo at the local prep school so it was good to replace really.

Your just about one year in.looking good

Oh i know! I bought the car at the end of October to be honest. I only really started working hard on it in the last say 6 months. but unfortunately i wont make it to the swap meet in the car.
but I will be there.
Ill be wearing a Greene Performance T shirt if anyone wants to say Hi!

FYI.. pop rivets won't hold the battery tray, because batteries are HEAVY. Been there, done that. Find a friend with a welder to attach it.

Did your friend use a .250 thou pop rivet? with 720 pounds of shear capacity?
I think it will be fine.

Took the Sills off the other day, Found the only real rust the car has on the jack point.
Easy enough to fix.




Cleaned up the engine bay and re did parts of the wiring harness in prep for putting the engine in.



Time to put the engine in






And its in.



Time for axles



So the shafts and stubs were glass beaded then painted. got new boots and gaskets for them and fully anti siezed the splines.
What a pain they are to put in.



So afterwards I was all like.

Out with a friend and his audi, Never ment to have that in the shot but its a great car even if it has the stance of a monster truck.
Also changed the Throttle cable(Thank fuck), and put fire sleeve on my clutch cable and speedo cable.
Pulled the wiper arms off to blast them as well as some other misc shit. I forget, I just stick it in the cabinet then blast the holy hell out of it.
Oh and hooked up a breather box. So my motor wont feel like the NYPD is arresting it.


Had to re seal the rear window, it was the cause of my floor pan rust. Stupid owner had the car painted before me then they never put it back in properly.

Doing some carbs for another 914 friend. He said they only sat outside for a little bit.
Yeah right.

Drove my car to go see my good friend Arthur, Of course since i was 57 miles from home the car decided it did not want to shift at all. First second and occasionally 3rd was not going to get me home. Since i had no idea what the problem was i was hesitant to drive it lest their be loose something in the trans.
Onto the tow truck we go. (Thank you Arthur)


Two hours of LA traffic in a tow truck, what an adventure.

The cause, This is supposed to have bushings in it, They decided that right then was a good time to demand to be replaced. Easy enough to fix, gave me a excuse to re paint my shifter rod that was scratched up from the original install.

But not before i tore the shift console out of the trans to check the roll pin on the selector forks... UGH least it did not leak after i re installed them.


Nice day out in my bmw in Laguna Canyon chasing a Austin Healey 3000


Of course since i fixed one thing, another problem had to crop up.
now the master cyl is leaking, so i have that on order.
UGH 280$ People buy my T shirts and Mounts! i have a herd of vintage cars and a mini to support!
Your part order could save this mechanical orphan!



Cant wait to see what this turns into. Rain sucks for working on cars.

Nice progress



When you patch that jack support, leave a couple of good-sized drainage holes at the bottom corners on each side





If you can find a set of bronze bushings, you'll probably never have to perform this task again.

Pelican Parts had the bronze shift coupler bushings a couple of months ago, if you want to go that route. I bought a pair and will be giving them a try at some point.

Years ago the original black plastic shift coupler bushings in my car literally disintegrated and shifting became impossible. The replacements I got were a dark red delrin-type material. The difference was amazing and along with replacement of the other shift linkage bushings, the shifting was greatly improved. I guess the point is, whether you go bronze or plastic, you should see a big improvement.

Oh Bruce/Glen helped me find all new parts for the shifter so from the shifter to the trans is all new now.
They recommended a 911 part in that coupler i have pictured so thats fixed.

Over the last few years, I have done a few more things to the car. Ill have to add more pictures than this.

But due to the leaking window I had to repair the floor pan. I took the advice of a local metal guy who honestly could have been more helpful.
Really I would have been better off doing it my way and in the future I may revisit my repair. Only the passenger side was affected so that was nice.
I also have re carpeted the car, Need to do the seats and dash.
I also removed the back pad, put in two layers of sound insulation and a felt GT style firewall cover. I prefer it to the padded back pad, it seems no louder but the car feels more roomy.

Earlier I mentioned I had a opportunity to buy a full carrera Front end so i did.
I ultimately sold the brake calipers off of it and replaced them with some Early S calipers I had PMB restore for me with new shocks/bearings/ rotors/ball joints/ bushings and powder coat.
I am however thinking about going to a boxster set of brakes as Im not sure how I feel about these S calipers.

I also finished a full 5 lug conversion with a 911 parking brake because I was tired of the parking brake on the car just being not very modern feeling or modern functioning. this could be a load of things such as venting clearance or how the rear calipers were rebuilt (Did them at home) But i was over it and I wanted more brakes because I knew where this ultimately was going.
I now have the pmb recommended 108mm "System" with 911 parts everywhere.

Motor has been running great, I added a under deck rear cooler, Ill post pictures of that soon. Trans continues to shift perfectly.
And I have been running the wheels I bought from 0396, Gotta say I miss Peter.

I repainted the roof, and did the trailing arm reinforcement when i changed over to 5 lug.

Also I back dated the bumpers, I absolutely hated those big ugly bumpers.
So the paint is failing its a little disheartening but ok. Here is how it sits as of right now.

Your car is looking good. That's a lot of work you have accomplished.

After running the car around a bunch and never being happy with the oil temps I added a thermostaticly controlled oil cooler with fans that are also controlled by a thermostat.
I am lazy and do not want to be bothered trying to remember to turn fans on and off.
Besides in my mind this is the correct way to do it.

I also added some 2.0L SSI exchangers. They are much better as everyone knows.