Hey,

Seem like every time I set out to do something, something fails, or doesn't work the way it should. I am using the Pelican Guide for Valve Adjustments....

I have removed my heater boxes and heat pipes on both sides, (coca cola treatment and wire brushed) have new valve cover gaskets ready to go...

Just adjusted my 1st cylinder valves no problem .006 intake .008 exhaust (they are that left to right correct)...and now when my #2 cylander is at tdc (large score in flywheel in the center of transmission gap) the feeler guages will not fit behind the valves! when i move the wheel slightly, they will slide in, but the mark is no longer visable! Distributor looks basicly at 90 degrees from #1 TDC, but it would seem that either the machined mark is off, or something else is very wrong here!

I have the nuts, and the slotted head screws backed out all the way! They wont go any more! I'm worried they are pitted or something, and wont come out!

What do I do! I have to button up this valve cover so it doesn't get dirty, but I feel like I'm so close to getting this done! Really want to have all 4 cylinders adjusted and the car down off the jack stands by tonight.

your not on tdc for that cylinder

use the capt'n krusty method

or look at your rotor and which way (plug wire) it is pointing...
you may have rotated the wrong direction and be on a different cylinder.

Personally I love the krusty method

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

Cap'n method works very well.....

How are you turning the motor?
Is it easy or PITA?

I found that if you can sit and watch the valves move while turning the engine you will understand the operation of the valves and will know when you are at TDC 1, 2, 3... just by watching.

Are the plugs out? Makes it easier to turn.

Stu

Firing order is 1-4-3-2. So if you were at TDC for #1 and turned the engine "forward" instead of "backward", you would go to #4 next. Or just keep turning forward until both valves on #2 are slack.

--DD