Okay so on my suby conversion. I have had one recurring issue. The ignition doesn't always work right. I can turn the car over but it doesn't start. If I wiggle the key while turning the car over. I could see my gauges reset & it would start. I've replaced switches already & no change. I even had McMark add a relay to my starter so there wasn't that full current running through the switch. That also made no change. I was pretty sure it was the key side of my ignition. Drove it all day today with no problems. Until I stopped to fill up on my way home. Got the good stuff (premium with no ethanol) then went to start & leave. Turns over but no start. Wiggle the key some but it feel different. Pretty sure something came loose inside. So I'll be replacing that tomorrow night. McMark mentioned this thread http://www.914world.com/specs/rekey.php

I've pulled that ll apart before so no big deal. I'm wondering though if it is just my tumbler that needs replaced. Any reason you could drill a small hole in the plastic housing to have access to the little hole that releases the tumbler? You wouldn't have to pull any of the other stuff off. Admittedly it's late & I am tired. Doubt I will do it this way now. Just thinking for a breakdown where tools are limited. Might be worth a shot

Someone feel free to point out I'm an idiot & am forgetting something that would make this not work. I have no doubt I am missing something

If the engine turns over, the problem is most likely not the tumbler.

If your ignition current through the contacts is too high, you may have a carbon build up problem on the switch. This is just like a set of points that needs cleaning. If the load is too high, it would effect every and any switch you install.

You will need to study the circuit. You should have relays to turn on all devices (coils, pumps, fans, etc). On a stock 914 the same ignition wire powers the coil. Modern cars have different requirements. Many more electronic gizmos to power up. The ignition wire should only turn on the relays.

Leave the car with me for a couple months and I'll get it fixed up for you...

I had this problem ten years ago. Changed switch and added starter relay. I ended up installing a push button start. Turn on key and push button. Works every time.

I've changed the switch multiple times. IT has made no difference in the way it acts. I will be doing it again along with the tumbler setup. Switch will be first but the key side is not working right. I'll replace it with my spare & report back on what happens

Sounds like a short in the relay board or the harness. If you have changes the switch multiple times that's not the issue. I would start looking at the connections. Possibly the plug on the back of the switch.

Can you access a place where you can get your hand on the harness in the column? Next time it happens instead of jiggling the key why not try to move the wiring a little. Maybe a loose connection at the harness to the switch.

I will check all my connections out to. I did have them check continuity through the wires before. I do know my key is jacked up. So I need to replace it anyway. I will be dbl checking everything as I am planning on driving it out to Route 66 next week. I'll be tearing into it tonight

You can always add an "emergency starter switch" on top of the relay board. It would be hidden by the relay board cover, the wiring is right there, and you can use it when working on the car to bump the engine over with the ignition off.

And if it doesn't crank, you can get out and push that button to start it instead of push starting the car.

I have no problems turning it over. It is the other signal that seems to be missing. It's like the computer fuel pump or coil doesn't get the input saying yes it's okay to run. I've tried saying start you muther fucher but that doesn't seem to make a difference

Anyway I'll have a better idea tonight when I get to screw with it. Keep running different things through my head with it. I've got plenty to check out tonight.

Can you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when starting? Your problem could be the relay board. Possibly a bad connection at one of the relays or a bad relay. try moving the relays around. Move them clockwise. One will be for the fuel pump. Another is a power relay. Remove the 12 and 14 pin cables at the relay board and reseat them. The relay boards can develop internal connection problems.

Suby conversion fellas. All bets are off with the wiring. Systematic diognoisis is the answer.

That's why I told him to drop it off with me.

I've heard that too many times.

Okay so tonight I pulled the switch & key. Key still doesn't turn as it should so need to clean it all up good. Still that couldn't be causing that problem. The switch was bad. Replaced it with the used one & key I had from another car. It would turn everything on but not engage the starter. Had another new switch so plugged it in out of the cylinder & just tried without the key. Still had the same issue. Sometimes it will turn over & start the car. Sometimes it just turns the car over. Was considering adding the push button for the started as Nord suggested. Had a buddy stop by. turned the key on & jumped the starter. Fired right up every time. I tried it multiple times. So rather than fight this ignition switch. Adding the push button will make everything work right.

So any suggestions on how to wire the push button. Basically I get the hot lead from the back of the switch. Well one that is powered with the key on. Then run the ground back tot he starter right? Other than adding a inline fuse for the hot side. Anything else I should do?

If you must add a starter switch, grab the switched hot at the ignition and connect it through a push button to the YELLOW wire on the ignition switch.

Done

The new Chinese 914 switches are crap. This is why relays are added to reduce the load on the switch and keep the carbon build up to a minimum.

Maybe check this thread out , Bill D.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...225194&st=0

The exact reason for this.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=231858
Tom

This is a sollution and the correct wire hookup. I bought my button from a marine supply store. Its rated for 30 amps and has a rubber cover over the button to keep it dry. Remove cigg lighter and put button in that hole. I've never been able to get the targa seals to keep all the water out.

Yeah picked one up at autozone that was a marine one. I am thinking of putting the switch on the left side of the steering wheel. That way I wouldn't have to worry about some passenger being stupid & pushing it to see what it does

In using the yellow wire. Does it need to be connected to the original switch still? Or can I just remove it from the switch to put to the button. I realize the power I just tap into as the ignition still needs that. Just wasn't sure on the yellow wire. Kind of like to get that off the switch if it is no longer needed with my start button being added

Jamie,
Yes you can use the large yellow from the ignition switch and use it to connect to the push button. The ignition switch will not need the yellow wire there any longer. It is wise to make a small drawing and include in your Haynes book of what you are doing for future use.
Tom

I'm also able to turn my motor over and prime the oil pressure first when it has sat for long periods or I'm working on motor.

I agree with Tom that you don't need wire to key and change the wire diagram for your car for the next owner.

Here's a drawing that might help , Bill D.

Click to view attachment

I already have a relay but it's next to my starter. By wiring it using my ignition wires. I will still have the relay in back for the starter. So all I will be doing is connecting the yellow wire to one side & the black to the other. I need to go by some sauter & heat shrink. I will be adding an inline 30 amp fuse for the hot lead also. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. It's made this a pretty simple deal

Success! I probably stressed over this a little to much. Electrical really makes me paranoid. I had the first car I ever bought go up in flames from an electrical fire in my dash. Was going to trade it in & a buddy of mine pulled my stereo for my new car. Left a hot wire straight from the battery & pushed it up in the dash. About 10min down the road I had flames coming out from my dash. Always kicked myself for not checking it out before I left. Lesson learned there at the age of 17. Ever since I have been a little skittish doing any electrical.

This was really a simple deal & works perfectly. I turn on my key & wait a second before hitting the button. Now I am on to some other projects. One is installing a seat belt from a boxster. My return on my seat belt is shit. McMark told me to try one from a Boxsster. So I grabbed a pair from craigslist for $40. Damned if it doesn't clip into the 914 receptacle. It has a small rectangle as opposed to the small circle in ours. Clicks in just fine & Holds no matter how hard I pull on it. I'm going to try the drives side & see how it works for my trip.

Also my key works fine. Pulled it out cleaned everything up. Added a little lithium grease & it is smooth as butter.

COOL

Now go and have some fun! Have a GREAT trip. We'll get a run in when you get back.

Quick pic of the button. Unspectacular but functional