great thanks, emailed Bob, he emailed right back, going to call him to be sure of right ones, picts above look great

The carpet installation is like a puzzle. The piece behind the pedals, (pull the pedal board,) is first. Center tunnel and dead pedal next. Passenger foot board next, then the longs last. Take both seats and seat adjusters out, outside seat belt anchors, pull the e-brake, etc, just loose and out of the way. (This is a good time to clean and lube the e-brake center post) You should probably pull the back pad completely out too, but I left mine in. I'm doing Perlon behind the seats eventually. Take your time, I went pretty (too) fast. 3M #90 spray glue on both sides; car surfaces, and the backside of the carpet, (make sure, and double check it's the BACK side,) to ensure a good bond. I didn't cut out for the floor buttons, but I used heavy duty Velcro squares to keep the "floor mat" part of the carpet in place. Make sure you vacuum really well after the install, all kinds of stuff flies all over when you rustle things up in there! Good luck.

I have an idle issue now that the final vacuum hose is properly attached. How do I lower the idle? It's the mixture, but where is that located? I'm not familiar with FI. Car is still the 1.7 snail motor. I also lowered the front a bit today. Even though I like motor boats, 914s don't look good "motor boating" down the road.

man, I cannot believe you got this from a junk yard. Besides saving a teener, which is awesome, you landed an easy and inexpensive way into the car. That makes the experience more fun.

But this was a junk yard car??? Unreal.

Keep up the great restoration and cleanup. You will love this car. 914s are the best.

Thanks, ......anyone on how to lower the idle on a 1.7?

There's an adjusting screw on the throttle body and an idle adjustment knob on the ECU. Try the throttle body first.

You were crying the blues a couple of weeks ago...look at you now. Nice rescue!

Idle adjustment is the big screw on the throttle body

I can't see any screw that looks like an adjustment screw. The idle is at about 2K RPM and it only idles that high with the new airbox and the vacuum hose hooked up. What am I missing? Duh.

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That screw is all but impossible to reach with the air box on and the air box is what makes it idle high. Any ideas?

You just have to thread your arm and hand back down in there. It can be done unless you have arms like Popeye

ca-cacacaca

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It just doesn't seem very "German" to have the idle screw so deeply buried under there. Super hard to get to, let alone get a stubby screwdriver in there and on it. Oh, and a new problem, a puddle of brake fluid under the car...... Probably a good idea NOT to drive a car that has been "sitting" without thoroughly going through the brake system. That time is now. That's my next focus.

I thought dealing with the brakes was the first chore on everybody's list ... it's always been mine (ever since my first car lost it's brake fluid 45 years ago)

When I first got my 914 I was so excited to have it that I drove it all over and I just wanted it to look good. When I finally took a moment and actually inspected the brakes, I couldn't believe what I was driving on....won't do that again!



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as well as fuel lines throughout the car......my .02

Check the rotors for wear as well........375 no less.

Call Eric Shea....no affiliation....just the fastest easiest thing to do.

Assuming your car is on D-jet....DONT change to carbs.

Get the car rolling safely....you got a good score. Check the swing arm bushings if you have to do the rear calipers as well.

Just my .02.....been there.

Idle at 2k is quite high even for the adjustment. Likely there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

Check the AAR valve (see it on the diagram on previous page). It lets air in when the engine is cold to keep the idle up and slowly closes as the engine warms. They are notorious for sticking open. Pull the hose from the air intake plenum and plug with your finger. It should drop the idle to 850 RPM.

That IS the hose I have plugged (for now) and the car idles right. Isn't it supposed to go into the top portion of the air cleaner/box? When I attach it there, the car runs much better, just idles too high. Even when warm.

Go to Jeff Bowlsby site or the Bird site.....there are hose routing diagrams there......get your brakes fixed first.

Shifter parts all ordered...I ordered the trick Tangerine firewall bushing, bronze rear, everything else nylon. Master cylinder on the way and hoses. Safety first. Should be some fun weekend projects soon.....How do I check my transmission fluid level?

Finger

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/1...ranny_Fluid.htm

Did you get caliper rebuild kits and going to DIY?

I'm talking to Eric about the calipers, etc....

Sounds like your AAR is stuck open. With it open, the engine will idle high all the time. You need to fix the AAR or get a new one. Make sure the AAR wire is connected.

If it hasn't been serviced lately or touched, change it asap before you need a new one......

After I replace all of the shift/linkage bushings, will there be any aditional adjustment needed? If so, is it adjusted at the shifter?

You should not have to adjust at the shifter from installing new bushings.
The lower part of the shifter should be vertical with the trans in nuetral.

Hi. Whatever you do, rebuild your calipers...The previous owner of my 914 bought new front calipers and rotors(I tried to install them for him) and the passenger side caliper would not fit(tried quite a few) Turned out that he had a driver's side spindle on the passenger side(would have never thunk it). Two years later he found a caliper and had to modify the body so it would fit over the rotor(mr. dremel) The rotors were too large(still have them don't know what they go to). While you are at it, REPLACE ALL BRAKE LINES AND HOSES. Took me 2 months to do this after the calipers rotors were installed. Running the steel lines thru that shift tunnel(got scarred knuckles for my trouble) is a mother.

I'm paddling as fast as I can. Lots of stuff to do which doesn't "sexy" up the car. (it does make it a lot safer, but I digress,) These are the pitfalls of buying and putting a teener back on the road. Probably better off to buy a better condition one, but that wouldn't be as much fun.

so true, i did the same thing, but have enjoyed the process, over the past 4 years. I recently finished the brakes and really was surprised how bad it was!!!- and messed up a brake line when removing it, so eventually realized the best thing was to replace all the hard lines and hose- after all, i had brand new calipers from eric, why would i not do the lines too- its really not that much $$ when you consider everything else - its not that hard, just time and now after about 6 months off the road its back on the road with a 5 lug conversion and all new brakes - but i now understand why some guys get a better condition one to drive while the "project" car is on and off- so enjoy the process! i do think your project has a better start than mine did, looks like the body is in pretty good shape. once you get these brakes done, enjoy it some before taking it to the next level. I need to do some rust repair, but that is not going to happen until after the Octeenerfest!- i missed last year and do not plan on missing this year!

My car is getting new soft brake lines and 19mm Master cylinder. I bought 180# rear springs, won't Bilsteins make the "street" ride pretty harsh? I need advice, my mechanic is saying Sachs or Boge shocks would work better. He thinks that the Sport or HD Bilstein will be too much. Advice?

Stock Boges work just fine for a street car IMO.

Hell,took me months just to get mine up on the sacred jack stands

Master cylinder is in, brakes are fine and safe for now. Since I put on a stock muffler, the car is backfiring at the heads because of cracked HEs. I have a better set to put on the car, do 914 people usually Jet-Coat these?

All new shifter bushings will be my project for today.

If you are just streeting the car, I would just put the Boge's on.

Lol, just a thought: someone should build and market "Official Porsche 914" jack stands.

Installed Tangerine firewall shifter bearing. Installed both rear side shift bearings; cup was easy and bronze rod bearing was also easy but I made the mistake of putting it in backward, so transmission wouldn't shift into 1st, 3rd, 5th. Okay, so take it all apart again and change it right? Nope. I COULD NOT get the front shaft back apart so I took the rear coupler back off and slid the old bad guide back in. (Maybe I overtightened it?) I'll revisit this at another time when I have a bit more patience (grrrrr)

914s can be so frustrating, and working under the car on the garage floor with it on jack stands isn't the easiest thing. The Blues......

Go with the Bilsteins, not harsh (KYBs are harsh), Bilsteins just make the car feel glued to the road. If you are worried about ride the 180lb springs might have been a bit much. Tire selection will probably have the most to do with the ride quality.

-James

I'm running 205/65 x 15 Yokohamas. I like how a taller tire fills the wheel wells.

Okay, newbie question #334....How is the parking brake adjustment made? In the cables, or on the rear brakes themselves? Is there an adjustment hole on the rears?

Sorry, I just don't know.....

I think this might help

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9..._brake_pads.htm

I decided that this car is not going to ever be a concours car or really original, so I'm thinking more GT style. I had a crappy back pad that should have come out when I did the carpet kit, but I was too chicken to go all the way at that point. I forgot too, that it's MY car. (And I can do whatever I want to it) Anyway, I've seen a few cars done with the Perlon on the firewall so I decided to do it today. (Carpet is an eBay item, Rennspeed) Here are some pics of the install:

Tear out old POS worn out, taped up, sun cracked back pad and rubber mat. These pieces weigh a ton.....


Scrape, clean, and vacuum...



Mask areas that you don't want contact glue to get on...I use 3M #90 in a spray can for these installations.....

Next, when I have pre-fit it and made some marks to line up and mental notes on fitment, I start carefully with the spray glue, obviously on the middle hump to center it. I spray the firewall AND the carpet, and it adheres like a champ. I worked my way out to the door edges. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! (I always work too fast, I need to go de-caf next install...geez....)



This is a good time to detail all the parts that have to come out such as seat belts, B pillars, etc...I just got a good used set of pillar covers from Bruce yesterday, and I detail everything as it goes back in the car. My seatbelts work WAY better after cleaning and PB Blasting, carefully. Final product:

Nice job.

Awesome. Looks like maybe you had to make a couple of cuts in the middle? ... or is the center portion another piece you cut and glued in afterward?

I tried fitting up some tan perlon carpet last year and couldn't get it to cooperate ... (I didn't cut anything though).

Carpet came from Rennspeed in Duarte, Ca....eBay purchase.

It comes already sewn to fit the hump and the corners...........

Hi Lawrence, Any update of your car for this thread of yours?

What he said

Yes, there has been a lot of buying going on. 6 x 15 Fuchs, 914-6 rear hubs/stubs, PC trailing arms, all front 911 suspension, 2056 engine built...Click to view attachment Click to view attachment