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McMark
I've been collecting parts for my conversion and I just got my 911 ignition switch (P/N 911.613.011.01). It's got the correct silver center. I have an original 914/6 steering column, but the steering lock arm doesn't fit into the bracket into the column. I know this is a 'normal' thing and removing some material will make everything work fine. But since I'm mostly insane, I'd like to see pics of a real 914/6 ignition switch to compare and replicate if possible.

Anyone have pictures?
Even better, anyone have one they can measure?
And what about the original unit part number? What's that? The number in the PET doesn't seem to match the numbers I've seen.
SirAndy
Yepp, i had to shave off some material from the 911 switch i used.
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SixerJ
Hi Mark, does this help?

I bought a complete -6 lock set (or at least that's what it was advertised as) of the bay about a year ago - Sir Andy?

Let me know if you need more pictures

Jon

SixerJ
Last 2 pictures, the last one was a bit difficult to take in situ

5mm recess measurement is when viewed from the front of the lock

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McMark
SixerJ, THANKS! Can you take one more with the part number facing down?
SixerJ
QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 12 2014, 11:08 PM) *

SixerJ, THANKS! Can you take one more with the part number facing down?


Here you go, should have thought about it in the 1st place

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sixnotfour
they added more material so the bolt actually secured the lock in position = hareder to remove... grind flat = done
914Sixer
914-6 PET shows the lock assembly as 911.613.901.00. So the one you are using is a later one. There was one assembly for the 65-68 911 column, one for the 69-73 911 column and then 74-89.
McMark
Awesome! Now I can make mine look right.

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 12 2014, 06:17 PM) *

grind flat = done

You make it sound so easy. If only it was for the obsessive compulsive. unsure.gif
SixerJ
Mark,

Apologies for hijacking your thread, but could you take some detailed pictures of your genuine column with any relevant dimensions for the flat bracket position on the tube factory welding details, any other relevant dimensional information etc?

I was thinking it would be useful to capture details of both the ignition lock and column in a single thread for those who we're thinking of building themselves a facsimile of the factory set up?

Also those in the know regarding the exact differences (functionality of the switch and connectors) between the 911 switches and 914-6 would be useful to capture in a single place as well
larryM
notwithstanding all the perfection above

- if you are going to track the car with any of the sanctioned race clubs - (my experience per scca & vara) - it is generally required to disable ( remove or block) that interlock mechanism

nobody wants a non-steerable missile coming down the track at them



McMark
Pictures of the steering column. Let me know what else you need.
Mark Henry
This is a lot of work...wasn't the '72 six just like a /4 with the key on the column?

Just asking because I don't need any help fueling my OCD on this point for my '74 /6 conversion. wink.gif
mepstein
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Oct 21 2014, 03:01 PM) *

This is a lot of work...wasn't the '72 six just like a /4 with the key on the column?

Just asking because I don't need any help fueling my OCD on this point for my '74 /6 conversion. wink.gif

It is work and money. It's optional but if you like the look, go for it.
biosurfer1
QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 12 2014, 08:34 PM) *


QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 12 2014, 06:17 PM) *

grind flat, throw away, grind flat, throw away, grind flat, throw away, grind flat = done

You make it sound so easy. If only it was for the obsessive compulsive. unsure.gif


There, fixed it smile.gif
altitude411
Click to view attachmentWhat is this connection for? My '70 six does not have it...

Also does any know of a clamshell vendor or have one for sale? Mine would be repairable (epoxy/fiberglass/paint) but I would replace if possible.
type47fan
QUOTE(altitude411 @ Oct 21 2014, 03:32 PM) *

What is this connection for? My '70 six does not have it.


. . . 911 "key in ignition" buzzer alert?
altitude411
Ah, that makes sense. Good, I'm glad I don't have one! I hate those things. They always scare away the deer when I'm poach, er.... um, hunting. ar15.gif
McMark
QUOTE(altitude411 @ Oct 21 2014, 03:32 PM) *

Also does any know of a clamshell vendor or have one for sale? Mine would be repairable (epoxy/fiberglass/paint) but I would replace if possible.

DON'T buy the reproduction from Automobile Atlanta. It's a terrible 'reproduction' (if you can even call it that). sad.gif
altitude411
Thanks for the heads up Mark, I'll keep shopping the e. popcorn[1].gif
SixerJ
Thanks for the pictures, wow, even a NOS sticker, where can I buy one drooley.gif, oh and a dash, and a column, and a clam shell, and a.......

I guessed from pictures the AA repro clamshell was nasty, but it's nice to have it confirmed and not me just trying to see the worst in an AA part

Presumably to make a 6 repro, you would start with a LWB 911 shell and trim it down until the back is flat / you have lost the ears if I can call them that? You would also lose the captive clitch nuts I think as there is a pair in the ears....trying to remember where they are from the 911 resto days

Does anyone know of any good threads on how to build a column and clam shell etc

Talking about becoming obsessive, I'm starting to really, really dislike the PO of my -6 and what he did to it. If you could execute for criminal acts against a car, he would be on the top of my Kill Bill style Death list #1 parry.gif (closest I could find to a 'Japan's finest steel' emoticon)
SirAndy
QUOTE(SixerJ @ Oct 22 2014, 02:50 PM) *
Presumably to make a 6 repro, you would start with a LWB 911 shell and trim it down until the back is flat / you have lost the ears if I can call them that? You would also lose the captive clitch nuts I think as there is a pair in the ears....trying to remember where they are from the 911 resto days

911 clamshells are a pretty good fit, they do require some trimming on the back to fit but it wasn't that hard to do.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=82045
smash.gif
SixerJ
Great thread, thank you.

It's prompted me to post a WTB, I should try and gather the genuine parts before I resort to conversion route. After all this is for a genuine -6 that the PO ruined and sold off when he built it into a race car headbang.gif
McMark
Got my switch modified by the machine shop. They took just a little too much off, but it's not going to make a difference in the installation. Only I will know. Well, and now all of you. But no one else. biggrin.gif

Now to pull the tumblers and rekey it to my NOS key. drooley.gif
Harpo
I have never been sucessful in rekeying a 911 ignition switch. I'm not sure it was ever ment to be rekeyed. Doors, trunks and glove boxes however, have been streight forward.

David
SixerJ
QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 26 2014, 09:41 PM) *

Got my switch modified by the machine shop. They took just a little too much off, but it's not going to make a difference in the installation. Only I will know. Well, and now all of you. But no one else. biggrin.gif

Now to pull the tumblers and rekey it to my NOS key. drooley.gif


Very cool, looks like they did a great job. I looked at my ignition and good door handles (all will be now odd) and decided that the ignition looked a PITA to re key in comparison to the other locks

That said I only have to do the door handles as I will have no trunk, glove box and the hood pull will probably be used for the gas strut headlight kit. If I had all matching locks apart from the ignition I would be looking closely at it!

Please post the steps required to for rekeying
John
QUOTE(Harpo @ Nov 27 2014, 09:13 AM) *

I have never been sucessful in rekeying a 911 ignition switch. I'm not sure it was ever ment to be rekeyed. Doors, trunks and glove boxes however, have been streight forward.

David



I did mine. There was a roll pin driven into a blind hole. I had to drill a secondary hole in order to get the roll pin out. After that fiasco, it was straight forward.

I started out with the ignition switch and column switches and clamshells from a 1973 911.

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mepstein
QUOTE(John @ Nov 30 2014, 09:19 PM) *

QUOTE(Harpo @ Nov 27 2014, 09:13 AM) *

I have never been sucessful in rekeying a 911 ignition switch. I'm not sure it was ever ment to be rekeyed. Doors, trunks and glove boxes however, have been streight forward.

David



I did mine. There was a roll pin driven into a blind hole. I had to drill a secondary hole in order to get the roll pin out. After that fiasco, it was straight forward.

I started out with the ignition switch and column switches and clamshells from a 1973 911.


Good info. Thanks. I want mine to have the same key for all the locks. Just one more job for scatty to do biggrin.gif
John
QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 30 2014, 06:32 PM) *

QUOTE(John @ Nov 30 2014, 09:19 PM) *

QUOTE(Harpo @ Nov 27 2014, 09:13 AM) *

I have never been sucessful in rekeying a 911 ignition switch. I'm not sure it was ever ment to be rekeyed. Doors, trunks and glove boxes however, have been streight forward.

David



I did mine. There was a roll pin driven into a blind hole. I had to drill a secondary hole in order to get the roll pin out. After that fiasco, it was straight forward.

I started out with the ignition switch and column switches and clamshells from a 1973 911.


Good info. Thanks. I want mine to have the same key for all the locks. Just one more job for scatty to do biggrin.gif


Mine is the same key for all locks (except the glove box and the front trunk) Those two are still only on the RED key.

jkb944t
Would anyone know where a good place to start to locate the parts to do this conversion such as the 911 steering column and clam shell?

Jeff B
naro914
I went a different route for the column...I wanted to keep it 914 looking, so we welded the key hole section shut, did a little 'body work' on it to smooth it out, paint...done. I may even have another one that we did (though I don't know were it is). I was going to offer them for sale, but there was no interest at the time.

Oh, and I'm not OCD about the key - I cut the steering lock mechanism right off....

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jkb944t
If I understand your post correctly you simply removed the ignition switch from the steering column and relocated it to the left side on the dash. In doing that you forfeit the steering wheel locking feature but that doesn’t seem like that big of deal to me.

I’m not sure what part you were going to sell though. Do you have any other pictures or a more detailed procedure that you followed to do this conversion?

Jeff B
naro914
QUOTE(jkb944t @ Apr 15 2015, 04:47 PM) *

I’m not sure what part you were going to sell though. Do you have any other pictures or a more detailed procedure that you followed to do this conversion?

Jeff B

Really, we were just selling the column that's 'filled in'. Welding is a bit of a bitch because it's a cast piece, and when you look inside, it wasn't as easy as it looked...

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