Doing some "surf'n" and came across these being installed on an Audi A4

I never knew that they made a parking brake caliper...

one more shot.....

Someone please have pricing and it better be cheap.

I drive around with a brick behind my seat sometimes, just in case I park somewhere that I am concerned with the trans not staying in gear.

I am seriously considering using these....

Wilwood Mechanical Caliper

A hot rod buddy said they use these when building custom e-brake set-ups for street rods.

A little and and you could probably design us a mount.

here is a simply way to make a parking brake. buy the willwood spot caliber at 57 bucks, then a push pull cable from mcmaster carr for 45 bucks. then just fab a plate that comes off of the diff cover to mount the caliber to. then a simple AL rotor made from 1/8 inch AL, double thickness at the caliber location. a few holes and a few screws ( 10 to 15 ) to hold the 2 layers together. the last thing would be longer roll pins and cv bolts ( 1/8 inch longer ) to sandwich the rotor between the cv and tranny out put flange.then just hook the cable to the stock brake handle.

now why put it on the tranny end, simple, why add 2 to 3 lbs of unsprung weight, and less trouble when working on the rear axles.

i bet this could be made in 3 hours for 150 bucks or less

now this would not hold up as an emergency brake but it would be a fine parking brake

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Jan 31 2005, 10:06 PM)

now this would not hold up as an emergency brake but it would be a fine parking brake

Nice idea!! I bet it would work as an emergency brake as long as your emergency wasn't two broken axles I guess the aluminum might clog the pads eventually, but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

That is a cool idea. You could probably even find an inexpensive disc to use from a motorcycle or go cart, then all you would need is some kind of mounting hat and caliper mount.

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 31 2005, 09:21 PM)

I guess the aluminum might clog the pads eventually, but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

but the problem with a steel rotor is weight, and it would need to be .25 inch thick, because willwood makes several calibers but the thinest rotor they work with is .25 inch.

now yes AL might clog the pads if you tried to use it as an e-brake, but under nothing but a static load i dont think it would ever be a problem

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Feb 1 2005, 12:29 AM)

but the problem with a steel rotor is weight, and it would need to be .25 inch thick

0.085" aluminum "hat section" disk faced two sides with 0,085" mild steel.

i'm still not sure why we're not investigating using VW GTI/GLI rear calipers, but since i haven't done it either, i have no idea the mounting issues. they stopped the car and had good e-brake / parking brake performance.

Clay Perrine has already been working on a bracket kit for a spot caliper.

QUOTE

i'm still not sure why we're not investigating using VW GTI/GLI rear calipers, but since i haven't done it either, i have no idea the mounting issues. they stopped the car and had good e-brake / parking brake performance.

"someone" is ...that is how I found these pictures...aluminum caliper with built in parking brake....I should get my sample next week I hope....

Our 87 Subaru GL-10 has it's parking brake in the front. The calipers are pretty decent size, and set up for a vented disc. Not aluminum calipers though.

Sorry boys, I have some dis-hearting numbers...

i've also been working on a bolt-on spot caliper kit, and durring my research the Brembro's came up around $700 each! The hot ticket would be a Willwood spot caliper, but i've been working on making a few myself.

Any thoughts as to whether it would be easier to make a bracket for the front or rear?

Next time I get under my car, I will look, see if it looks like it would be a complete pain in the ass.

Here is another company that makes mechanical calipers, but they look like an OEM supplier.

Hayes Brake

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 31 2005, 09:21 PM)

but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

And could be drilled for lightness.........................

SteveSr

Hey iibdsiil,

Get rid of that rock and go to Sears, they have these for dirt cheap! They fit perfectly between the seat and side tunnel.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00950119000

QUOTE (cdmcse @ Jan 31 2005, 09:26 PM)

You could probably even find an inexpensive disc to use from a motorcycle or go cart, then all you would need is some kind of mounting hat and caliper mount.

Why not take the whole front brake system from a motorcycle ,caliper, disc and mastercylinder and fab a lever to replace the hand lever that was on the handle bar????

SteveSr

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 10:15 AM)

Sorry boys, I have some dis-hearting numbers... i've also been working on a bolt-on spot caliper kit, and durring my research the Brembro's came up around $700 each! The hot ticket would be a Willwood spot caliper, but i've been working on making a few myself.

I found the Brembos for $300 each.....ouch, still too much...the pads are another $80 or so per caliper....damn.....

The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

QUOTE (SteveSr @ Feb 1 2005, 09:56 AM)

Why not take the whole front brake system from a motorcycle ,caliper, disc and mastercylinder and fab a lever to replace the hand lever that was on the handle bar???? SteveSr

I take back what I said,this has been dicussed before,hydraulic e-brakes won't work

SteveSr

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 1 2005, 10:22 AM)

[QUOTE=BigD9146gt,Feb 1 2005, 10:15 AM] The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

Spacers pretty easy to do on the Wilwood spot. Also, Rennegade Hybrids was making a spot caliper to fit a 914....I said WAS, as I couldn't find it anywhere on their site. There were some pic's of it floating around sometime back. Perhaps contact RH?

Andy

Anybody know the width of a vented rotor and tolerances off the top of thier head?

cdmcse, the early-SC (late 60?-83) vented is 20mm thick and the Carrera (84-89) is 24mm thick. The solid i'd have to guess on (10- 12mm?)

inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR would be fricken sweet.

where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where?

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:34 AM)

inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR would be fricken sweet. where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where?

I like it too, but wouldn't you need a caliper on BOTH sides?

Andy

EDIT: Bondo is right, the 911's are shorter than the 914... my bad.

Although it really is a great idea (the 60's-70's XKE jags had them inboard next to the diff), mounting would be your biggest hurdle. And on a minor side note, your adding more rotating mass.

If a mechanical brake kit costed $200 (just a straigh bolt on for both sides), would people even be interested? One off's are great and all, but for those who have this stuff on the drawing board, its gotta make sence ($$$). I agree some things are way over priced, but those who make this kind of stuff gotta pay bills too.

QUOTE (andys @ Feb 1 2005, 12:40 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:34 AM) inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR  would be fricken sweet. where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where? I like it too, but wouldn't you need a caliper on BOTH sides? Andy

sure... why not? or.... would one side work?

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 12:43 PM)

Aaron, i'm 99.9% sure that they arn't shorter than the 914 axles. Although it really is a great idea (the 60's-70's XKE jags had them inboard next to the diff), mounting would be your biggest hurdle. And on a minor side note, your adding more rotating mass. If a mechanical brake kit costed $200 (just a straigh bolt on and go, would people even be interested? One off's are great and all, but for those who have this stuff on the drawing board, its gotta make sence ($$$). I agree some things are way over priced, but those who make this kind of stuff gotta pay bills too.

don,

i thought to run 911 axles, you needed a spacer (thus- the axles is shorter IIRC), if you could integrate this rotor into that spacer... you get beefier/newer CV's/Axles and a better parking brake.

also... 150 -200 for a truely bolt on kit would be cool (cables/calipers/rotor\spacer/ mounting plates)

You don't absolutly need it on both sides, but as a kit, I think it would be more popular to everyone. But you could just supply one side for those who don't care about having two.

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 12:46 PM)

You don't absolutly need it on both sides, but as a kit, I think it would be more popular to everyone. But you could just supply one side for those who don't care about having two.

got me thinking too... maybe on the other side that doesnt have a clutch cable setup on it....


BTW- my dad had an XKE with the cool inboard brakes

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 12:45 PM)

i thought to run 911 axles, you needed a spacer (thus- the axles is shorter IIRC), if you could integrate this rotor into that spacer... you get beefier/newer CV's/Axles and a better parking brake.

Yup they be shorter. I have a set. Spacers/adapters are probably .75 to 1 inch thick each (one on each end, 4 total)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:45 AM)

also... 150 -200 for a truely bolt on kit would be cool (cables/calipers/rotor\spacer/ mounting plates)

The Wilwood spot calipers alone are about $60 each (consumer price). Add cost of rotors, cables, custom brackets. Even at dealer prices, you'd go broke selling them for $150.

Andy

SteveSr got me thinking (there I go working without tools again):

Some ATV's have mechanical disc brakes (Yamaha Blaster I think for example), and also the rears on larger ATVs (my 400EX Honda) has a hydraulic/mechanical setup that is much beefier. As a matter of fact, the mechanical portion of it is just an actuating arm and long cable that runs up to the clutch lever. It works independantly of the hydraulic system, and is a simple design. Most guys even remove it completely because they never use it.

The caliper itself doens't look much different from the Brembo one, and can be had from any ATV salvage joint cheaply, as well as the rotor. It would seem only a spacer would have to be fabbed up somehow.

BUT, I'm a doofus, and that was just a doofus idea, and maybe someone else knows what I'm talking about and say "Hey, I know what he's talking about.."

QUOTE (scooter311 @ Feb 1 2005, 12:36 PM)

.BUT, I'm a doofus, and that was just a doofus idea,

No scooter311, I think it would work. After I posted that I was talking to some ATV riders here at work and they said the same thing. The older ATVs had mechanical disc brakes on the back. I don't know if they would be powerful enough to be used as an e-brake,but would definatly work as a parking brake.

SteveSr

here is my brainstorm i had while in calculus class.....

mount the caliper so that the pads can be changed from underneath the car....

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jan 31 2005, 11:56 PM)

Doing some "surf'n" and came across these being installed on an Audi A4 I never knew that they made a parking brake caliper...

Is that thing giving birth to that other thing? Do doctors work on Audis?



M

Wow, that is pretty well thought out and looks like it would work.

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 1 2005, 06:47 PM)

Wow, that is pretty well thought out and looks like it would work.

i r not dooing math when I r supposed too.....

anything is possible on paper.... this looks pretty simple....

That looks pretty much like my plan for mounting the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) for my LT1 conversion. The rotor would be replaced with a custom toothed wheel, and the caliper would be replaced with the VSS.

Wilwood also makes a drum brake setup like the 911 ebrake.
I looked at using a motorcycle disk on the transaxle flange with some kind of spot caliber a couple of years ago,but gave up on the idea. Not much room to work with.

aaron, your drawing is basicly what i thought of when i made the 4 post on this thread. i would not put it on the bottom of the rotor, due to water, grease etc dripping and collecting there. not grease would not let them work any but better be safe. and as a parking brake i doubt we would ever have to change the pads in the life of the car.

Hey guys and gals, I'll be finishing off the Wilwood e-brake set for the 914 this month.
I've actually been waiting for some news to break here on the 914 board --and just buy the kit--but impatient as ever I've built (2) sets for two cars / myself and a good cust'r. The kits operate on brackets that mount to the trailing arm (bolt-on), and allow the wilwood to float (required design). OE cables go thru new support brkts and we are using 986 rears (on Rich Johnson adapters ) with 911 vented rotors. The unit sits accross from the main brake caliper, like the new Carrera GT.
Unfortunately , these will be working prototypes--not a sale item until we do some tool and die work for alum castings...as these are made from C/R steel and carry lots of unneccessary weight . No jpegs...but the 2 cars should be at Willow Springs @ WCC '05. I could'nt make these from steel @$150.00 a set> too much fab work, however casting out of alum. will bring the price into reality.
BTW, the Brembo setup was dominant on just about every Euro exotic at the L. A. Autoshow last month. Kinda funny how each mfg. mounts their ebrake at a different position !
MF

Maltese, you wouldn't happen to have a drawing of your 935 fan setup would you?

Don, I've adapted the horizontal fan "As is" from the OE 935 set up (aka 911/78 at the factory). The only required fab work were: bulkhead clearence for the outboard alternator; alt.support brkt ; 4 way oil feed line for (2) turbos, fan drive and OP switch; and an engine oil cooler shroud. I did all of the work w/o any factory diagrams > I'm sure they're avail, here's a teaser , I'll try to post a jpeg here


*resized it for you*

do you have any sound files of that motor?

Here's the scoop on my parkbrake setup.

About 2 years ago, I built a prototype setup for a parkbrake that uses the Wilwood spot caliper. I even went as far as putting it on my wife's 914 for testing. It works fine. You can see picts of the prototype Here.

I took the prototype to a swap meet a Zim's locally. I wanted to see what kind of response I would get if I decided to build it.

I got 2 people who were interested.


The prototype parts went into the parts pile in my garage.

I am building a 944 turbo caliper mount for my car. I am building one other set for a friend.

IT will use a Wilwood spot caliper for the park brake. The wilwood caliper can be bought with spacers to use any sized rotor.


As for the inboard park brake. It could be done real easy. Just buy a rotor, and weld it to the output flange on the trans. make a bracket, and install the caliper. ONe caliper would be fine for a park brake.

Here's a picture of the protorype 944 turbo caliper mount with park brake for a 914. The finished ones are being done by a machinist on cnc mills.

Marty,
As long as were off topic, I am considering an intercooler for my setup, could you post pictures of yours and how you managed the trunk lid.

Chap

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 1 2005, 01:22 PM)

The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

I think you are looking at the hydraulic spot caliper.

The mechanical Wilwood spot caliper will is available for 0.81" (20.6mm) thick rotor - #120-2280 (right) and 120-2281 (left).

Ive been considering the e brake for some time now. Since I also have the turbo brakes your install should make mine that much simpler.