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Gatornapper
Wow. And someone said the problem with the 178 009 was too much advance (22 deg. max.), and the 181 009 is perfect - but has 30+ deg. advance?

Now, if I can just find one of these 205 AA/181 009's.......

GN


QUOTE(rbzymek @ Dec 13 2019, 03:55 PM) *

Here is a graph of the curve base on the Pelican table data for the VW 022 905 205AA aka Bosch 231 181 009

Click to view attachment

ClayPerrine
I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.


Gatornapper
Clay -

I'd like to. Is this what one will cost? But I'm guessing the S is NOT the same as an AA.....

https://vwnos.com/022-905-205-s

GN


QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.
Gatornapper
???????

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-Bosch-...vEAAOSwGltazWC~

Should I grab it?

GN
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Dec 14 2019, 07:43 AM) *


It's a 1.8L distributor. The price is average. Up to you...

Gatornapper
Clay -

Good ones seem to be hard to find, and I am happy with an average price -

Getting it....

Thanks for all the help.....

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 10:18 AM) *

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Dec 14 2019, 07:43 AM) *


It's a 1.8L distributor. The price is average. Up to you...

rbzymek
GN,
If you go with Pertronix I would suggest ignitor II instead of ignitor III. My ignitor III would drop sparks at idle. I did a warranty exchange and had the same result so I am getting a refund. My ignitor II is due to arrive in a day or so.
michael7810
Sorry for the high Jack. Anyone have experience with Compufire? I’ve been working part time at a VW/Porsche repair shop for the past 6 months and we install a lot of compufires, at least 1 a week. So far I have not heard of any problems with them except occasionally the magnet ring (not sure what it’s called) contacts the rotor preventing it from going down far enough to get the cap on correctly. In those cases we grind a little off the bottom of the rotor with a belt sander and it’s good to go.
Gatornapper
For the record: Just found a photo of an 0 231 168 005, and it is a
022 905 205P...

Still looking for the 205 that is an 050........

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Dec 13 2019, 07:59 PM) *

NOW it makes sense!

Thank you!

On the Pelican list, they use the VW numbers.

Now - wondering what the Bosche numbers are for the following VW numbers, ending in:

205 D
205 E&F
205 J

Michael - no worries about a hijack - good info for all here re: the Compufire......

GN

QUOTE(rbzymek @ Dec 13 2019, 03:38 PM) *

GN,
That's the Bosch number 231 181 009. The VW part number is the the right of the VW logo (022 905 205 AA)


Gatornapper
Clay -

Received my 1.8 dizzy with V.A. today. Will install it with the new Pertronix unit (1847A I think) as soon as engine is running on the old 009.....

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.

rhodyguy
022 905 205 AB.
sportlicherFahrer
QUOTE(michael7810 @ Dec 14 2019, 12:54 PM) *

Sorry for the high Jack. Anyone have experience with Compufire? I’ve been working part time at a VW/Porsche repair shop for the past 6 months and we install a lot of compufires, at least 1 a week. So far I have not heard of any problems with them except occasionally the magnet ring (not sure what it’s called) contacts the rotor preventing it from going down far enough to get the cap on correctly. In those cases we grind a little off the bottom of the rotor with a belt sander and it’s good to go.


Compufire is another popular system, but I'm personally not a fan of it's reluctor wheel design. I've seen the wheel chafe through the wires a few times causing failures, and as stated the occasional fitment issue depending on manufacture of the rotor.
Gatornapper
Pertronix owns Compufire. They told me.

QUOTE(sportlicherFahrer @ Dec 18 2019, 10:52 PM) *


Compufire is another popular system, but I'm personally not a fan of it's reluctor wheel design. I've seen the wheel chafe through the wires a few times causing failures, and as stated the occasional fitment issue depending on manufacture of the rotor.

Gatornapper
Clay - Have this dizzy on my desk, not installed as engine still won't start.

Local 914 expert told me that vacuum advance dizzy will not work with carbs as there is not sufficient vacuum to activate the vacuum advance.

Did you know my 914 has IDF-44's? Your thoughts to his comment?

TIA,

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.

ClayPerrine
With carbs, you don't need the vacuum advance. The mechanical advance in the distributor has the correct advance curve for the carbs. Even on the stock L-Jet injection, they didn't use the advance side of the vacuum can, just the retard side. And that only retards it a couple of degrees.

Clay


QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jan 14 2020, 10:35 AM) *

Clay - Have this dizzy on my desk, not installed as engine still won't start.

Local 914 expert told me that vacuum advance dizzy will not work with carbs as there is not sufficient vacuum to activate the vacuum advance.

Did you know my 914 has IDF-44's? Your thoughts to his comment?

TIA,

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.


Gatornapper
Clay -

Thanks for the quick reply and good news. Looking forward to getting this dizzy on once the car is running.

Since the vacuum unit will not be used - is there any reason that it cannot be removed? Understanding that the open section in the side of the distributor case would have to be closed and sealed? I could easily do that with a piece of fabricated sheet metal.....

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jan 14 2020, 01:22 PM) *

With carbs, you don't need the vacuum advance. The mechanical advance in the distributor has the correct advance curve for the carbs. Even on the stock L-Jet injection, they didn't use the advance side of the vacuum can, just the retard side. And that only retards it a couple of degrees.

Clay


QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jan 14 2020, 10:35 AM) *

Clay - Have this dizzy on my desk, not installed as engine still won't start.

Local 914 expert told me that vacuum advance dizzy will not work with carbs as there is not sufficient vacuum to activate the vacuum advance.

Did you know my 914 has IDF-44's? Your thoughts to his comment?

TIA,

GN

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.



Gatornapper
Clay -

Put in this dizzy last week with Pertronix 1847V Ignitor and car ran perfectly!

For 10 min, until the Ignitor died........

Guess this post should be in this thread.........

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2791024

GN




QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Dec 14 2019, 07:29 AM) *

I can simplify this for you.

The factory 1.8L distributors have a vacuum advance on them.

The aftermarket "009" distributor does not.


Get a 1.8L distributor with a vacuum advance.

Tdskip
Oh crud.

Not to give you a hard time but that is usually a fried unit. Could just be a bad one from the factory but...

Hope you get it sorted out and please do keep us posted.
Gatornapper
Years in electronics myself - as Pertronix said, over-heating will cause label to turn yellow....no, it looked like new.....no signs of over-heating........

Will report on what happens. Meanwhile ordered a Hot Spark unit - always good to have a back-up anyway, and only $50.......

QUOTE(Tdskip @ Mar 3 2020, 09:36 AM) *

Oh crud.

Not to give you a hard time but that is usually a fried unit. Could just be a bad one from the factory but...

Hope you get it sorted out and please do keep us posted.

Tdskip
QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Mar 3 2020, 11:27 AM) *

Years in electronics myself - as Pertronix said, over-heating will cause label to turn yellow....no, it looked like new.....no signs of over-heating........

Will report on what happens. Meanwhile ordered a Hot Spark unit - always good to have a back-up anyway, and only $50.......

QUOTE(Tdskip @ Mar 3 2020, 09:36 AM) *

Oh crud.

Not to give you a hard time but that is usually a fried unit. Could just be a bad one from the factory but...

Hope you get it sorted out and please do keep us posted.



Weird, sounds like manufacturing defect.
Gatornapper
Pertronix is saying that almost never happens. They will analyze the module and tell me whether it is covered by warranty.

But could be something in my ignition I guess.....now here comes the puzzling bit: Today I put new points & condenser in the dizzy that worked well last week - and no spark! Tried 2 different coils too. Yes, have 12v from ignition.

I mean, a points system is so simple - I am really baffled. Only had few minutes today to look at car, will dig deeper tomorrow. I was shocked it didn't start right up with the points......

Will be checking plug wires - Bosche Ultra - no one has ever heard of them - they were new in the box from the PO of the car, but dating back to about 2005.....


QUOTE(Tdskip @ Mar 3 2020, 07:31 PM) *

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Mar 3 2020, 11:27 AM) *

Years in electronics myself - as Pertronix said, over-heating will cause label to turn yellow....no, it looked like new.....no signs of over-heating........

Will report on what happens. Meanwhile ordered a Hot Spark unit - always good to have a back-up anyway, and only $50.......

QUOTE(Tdskip @ Mar 3 2020, 09:36 AM) *

Oh crud.

Not to give you a hard time but that is usually a fried unit. Could just be a bad one from the factory but...

Hope you get it sorted out and please do keep us posted.



Weird, sounds like manufacturing defect.

yeahmag
Might want to ohm out your coil.
malcolm2
I am late to the party here, but I have used the HOT SPARK. It ran for about 30000 miles then got a hiccup. Pulled it and put another on.... It has gone 20000 miles and no problem. Hot spark has some voltage suggestions that you should dig into and verify that you are under. Their directions walk you right thru it. I keep a spare hotspark in my trunk. Like you said.... only $50.

Below is a link to my HICCUP thread. Thanks to TimND suggesting to use the timing light.

My hot spark hiccup

I ended up using a ballast resistor and some upgraded cool paste under the module to keep it cool. Like I said, all has been well since.
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