Introduction to the car my 11 year old named black beauty . Hopefully it can be returned to her former glory.

Back story:
Not much is kknown about this car.
I bought the car from Billh1963 on Sept. 29, 2015. He bought the car earlier in the year , found on Craigs list in Columbia, SC. We all know Bill can't pass up a deal!. Car sat for 10 years after the p.o. had pulled it off the road to fix and restore it. He got as far as stripping it down, pulled out much of the wiring harness. Replaced the right front quarter panel and then it was abandoned. Luckily it was preserved by being stored in a clean dry place.
Goals: return to road as a nice close to original daily driver.
1. Remove rust in hell hole and passenger cross member, and sail panel area on left side.
2. Prepare for back dating bumpers
3. Clean and prep for repainting.
3.5. Assess motor status and prepare for refresh.
Either a. Refresh 1.8 , b.rebuild using current motor with turbo, or c. Replace with 2.0 from donor car.
4. Paint
5. Reassemble and complete restore of interior.
Interior was originally white, now dyed black and in bad shape. Not salvageable.

Here are a few pictures of the current condition of the car.

I am a late entry and thank the powers that be for allowing me to join the contest.
I do not have the welding or body work talent that some have but I will do most if not all mechanical and interior restore work.

Welcome to the Challenge Dr. Phil, nice looking car.

Couple more

Front trunk. Hood is off,

Thanks!
If I can keep cost on the rust body and paint I will then be able to do more to the motor upgrade. But I thought, why not have one that is a restore to mostly stock? The hard part is resisting the temptation to "upgrade and modify" so it might just be a nice clean stock restoration. I need to source some nice 4 lug mahle wheels. - I will.sell these empi's and I have a very nice set of 16x6"fuchs I will sell or trade !

Rust

here is what i am shooting for with being original, but of course the seats will be white.

A few more present status picks, engine etc

Rust

He'll hole

Driver door area

Dash wiring question- I have my gauges just about hooked up, but I have a strange variation and with the color fading it's hard to make out some of the colors, but I went over to my other 75 and did some comparing.
This car does not have the same color wire on the ee-brake wiring light. According to the schematic, Bowlsby char and my other car it should have 2 wires that are brown w/yellow and it does but the other one should be black with white and green stripe, but rather what I have on this one is white with a brown stripe. Has anyone else seen this variation?

Here is the other car , correct color, for reference

Minor progress tonight. Changed oil and filter. New gas hose , new filter and pump and hooked them up so that I can get ready to test it. Has not been run since I got it, and I'd like to see if it will go. Now that tank is in place I will put some fuel in there to see if I got the wiring hooked up correctly. Also got some inspecting of the under carriage. Looks pretty good. Also, jacking up the car I noticed there is no body flex at all. Liting from the back the whole.aide of the car raises up as it should, checked door gaps and measurements at the top and no change !! That's a good sign for sure, since there has been some work done in the hell hole area in past. Next I will pull those rockers.

as posted on the update thread :::

OCTOBER UPDATE: for BACK IN BLACK(i'm renaming my thread this with the addition of the AC/DC song of same name as my official music) yep, that's all I've done-----
no, actually what I have accomplished is hooked up wiring, put in new fuel lines, fuel filter, pump, tank etc.

I bought the car as a rolling stripped down project, so normally I would not have done that but with this contest its not a bad way to go. it saved me a lot of time and trouble, but as discussed on Jeff B's recent tread asking the question which is worth more or which would you prefer, its a hard thing to sort thru all that stuff done by someone else, so I have spent hours sorting thru bags of labeled stuff, and some not labeled, digging into the car to look for rust(of which I have found some, nothing show stopping) and assembling a list of stuff I need to order from restoration design.
-began chipping out the tar board in the floor pans, found some rust along the edges of the floor, but mostly just surface stuff so far. right hell hole had a bad attempt at previous repair, including bad welding and calk!,
-wiring: wow what a mess - this takes the most time. Ordered some schematics, a member here sent me a PDF which I blew up, sent to local print shop, had them printed and laminated so I don't need my glasses to read them!!
- pulled wiring back thru to sort, hook up the fuel pump. because I need to know what I have in order to know if I am doing major or minor engine work- i'm really close to trying to crank it up so that I can then check for leaks, check compression etc. ( car is a 75 with 1.8 L-jet.)
- what I have sourced and ordered so far:
1. new Mahle wheels from member here: - will be shipped today or tomorrow(soon as I pay him )
2. New Distributor with installed optical points from Hot Spark - I read here that several others were using this distributor and very happy with the performance.
3. ordered vac hose, bought pump, filter and gas line and hooked all that up
4. new battery
5. I bought 914rubber.com bumper tops for back dating the bumpers- this might not happen, as I was contemplating a full stock build and restore: which poses the question, should I or should I not? because I cant find a set of decent nice chrome bumpers!!! , SO for anyone out there that might have a set let me know, otherwise it will have to just sell these toppers, and put the stock stuff back on (which maybe I should do)
this car is a mostly clean it up, make repairs and reassemble mostly in a stock fashion. Not custom.
Goals for this month that I believe I will have met:
- rewire , sort thru that- test run motor, strip floor pan and assess all areas for rust
- order parts, source proper wheels for car, sort thru parts stash,
- sourced a local Porsche shop that will help with next months goals:
-start car, run it and asses motor for needed repairs before dropping it out and cleaning it up
-threw out almost all interior parts except seats!! it was all trash
** so new list of parts needed to go forward: hell hole repair, battery tray, new dash and all new interior including door panels, back pad panels, white vinyl for back , doors, seats, - need to find out what carpet the car would have had stock- it was originally a stock black outside and white interior???

Next months goals: minor welding repairs of rear firewall, hell hole, replace battery tray to original location, fix 2 other body rust spots, prime etc
- pull motor and clean, put all nice new stuff on it,
- maybe finish minor body work have either touched up, or full respray- this is not decided yet.
- * will need all new exhaust so that decision will come later, but, I have very nice 1.8 heat exchangers with triad exhaust on my 75 2.0 copper car, so I might do a swap and buy the dual outlet SS. set up from Tangerine racing and put it on the Copper car. Decisions, Decisions!!!
Pictures will be posted on my thread, but yea, we've made some progress!
major parts orders are coming from 914 rubber, PMB, Restoration Design and Auto Atlanta.

just noticed I am high lighted finally!!!
These wheels will be coming soin, which means I will clean up and sell the EMPI on there now, and I have a set of nice 16"x6" Fuchs I need to sell to help fund the build!!!
Other parts needed :chrome bumpers, or I will be selling the 914 rubber toppers if I can't find a set to back date with.


Never said this but the good in this car is this:
*jack points are good, no rust thru.
* no flex to the body when jacked up.
* body and doors are very straight,
* no rust in the doors or the sills!!!
*
* suspension: was a/x for a while by a p.o. has really nice adjustable rear shocks good springs, front inserts blistering all around, and very nice aftermarket sway bar in front as well.

Challenges going forward:
The right front fender clip was replaced and is very straight., but not aligned perfectly so the gap with the cowl and the front edge of door is 1/8" or so too bigh. I need advice on whether I should leave it or remove and reattach it.

New distributor.

Can I use this over ? I think when the pulled it out it was ruined, I may need to source a new one, do they make new column parts?

Fender/door gap and cowl gap

is about to commence. We have received many new parts yesterday, pictures to follow, but

Restoration Design: repair parts for seat hinges and supports, jack point triangles, inner long and jack point parts, floor pan that will be shared between 2 cars since each has rust in different spot, I will be able to use half the pan on one car and the other half on the other-its a rear half pan.
I screwed up and forgot to order the battery tray and support !! .

- got a box or powder coated bits from Bruce Stone!!!!!
- AA sent my vac hoses and a few other bits, and
- 914 Rubber- Sail panel vinyl, dash vinyl and pad, seal kit for fresh air box refurb,

Reharvey sent me some awesome restored Mahle wheels, already pictured, now in my possession!.

I guess id better keep track, - I'm over $2k in parts orderd and received,
- once welding is done, I have to source H.E. and exhaust bits, muffler etc. and all new lenses, seals, etc. this month a lot should get done. I actually think I will be putting things back together in January.

The split you mean? Thats normal, it actually pieces back together. The question is if everything works..

gotcha, it was taped , the little clips that catch to hold it together are snapped off, - going to test it out, but I have a line on a NOS one from 914sixer, - I might do the column back date to use the one that has the connectors that fit the 911 intermittent and electric pump switch then install a electric washer pump. - it never ends does it!-
one question as this thing was in pieces, there were some pins and I don't know where they go. I guess the only way to know if this one will work is to re-install it and hook up the connectors? I don't eve have lights, blinkers, horn, or wipers connected, since the car was already stripped down before I bought it, so that will have to wait until reassembly begins!

just a brief update - may not have much to report for a month or so but,
finally found a guy that will help me with the rust spot issues, and has given me a good price quote for a repaint on the project car. He put me in his schedule for right before Christmas!!! so I have some prep work to do to get it ready so that he can shoot the inside rear trunk and front, and the engine fire wall . $3k for the stock black, all that- ive seen first hand lots of his work , it will be a quality job.

my job is to just have it ready, and its already stripped down, He will be replacing the battery tray that was taken out by P.O. and cleaning up some bad welding when the p.o. tried to fix the right hell hole. I have to strip out the tar off the floors , clean the back fire wall of the adhesive from the back pad. so I have 2-3 days of work to get it ready to be taken to the shop in 3 weeks. once back, around the first of January i will begin the process of re-assembly .

I've decided it will be sold to finance the re-do of my copper 75, so i will keeping a close track of the expeditures, but wondering what a 75 with backdated chrome bumpers, all new interior, repainted, running solid 1.8 L-jet motor and restored like new Mahle wheels (new seals all around) , what price range it would be? Its going to be hard after putting all that into it to sell it, but that was the plan before the Build-off started and i think the wife is going to hold me to it, i need room in the garage too

although I posted some update info a few weeks ago, and an end-of-the-month on the main build off thread, I thought i'd bump this up just to update STUFF!!

I have been trying to accumulate parts for rebuild, and I am scheduled to have the car taken to the shop to have the few places that need repair taken care of -
-a rust bubble by the rear tail light
-a spot in the rear drivers side firewall adjacent to the left hell hole area
-right hell hole fix of a previous badly done weld job and
-installing the new battery tray and support- old one was take out and not replaced

trying to decide if I should do anything about the right front quarter panel - it was replaced a some point and is perfectly straight BUT! it is forward about 1/8" too far and so the front door to panel gap is bigger than it should be and the top gap where the cowel seal goes is too big as well. Not sure how involved that would be jus to move it back and make it perfect. --- advice will be appreciated

- on to why very little will happen in the next 2 months - We finally sold our house after trying for 2 years(on and off)!!! that is the good news, AND also the new house we have made and offer and come to agreement on has a 30x30 space below the house, conditioned!!!! only 8.5ft ceilings but its way more than I had hoped for.
- themove will be in middle of February , so clearing out our house and moving will be top priority for the next 2.5 months so I doubt I will have much time to work on the car. If I get it to the shop, some of that stuff listed above might get done, but very little by me. no extra cash for parts right now, not until after the sale and move.
chears!!!

hope this delay in progress will not keep me from proceeding in the contest, but if so,
I don't mind a nice jacket to wear either

Congrats on the new house! Its amazing how much a new working space and being able to spread out and organize will help..

yes, and right now we are in the final process of dealing with issues that the
purchasers want, but due to the price we sold the house for, we are not willing to do,but only that which has to be done- ie electrical, wood rot replacement, insulation in crawl space and the dreaded polybutyl plumbing issue, which will be finished today(spent the day cutting holes in walls yesterday-and cleaningup plaster dust)
- so obviously car stuff is on hold. in fact i dont know for sure if this sale will go thru, because now they want a new roof(existing one is good for another 5 years) and i'm not going to do that(for price sold), as a result they have the choice to do it themselves and back down on their demand or walk ----, oh and can you say f-ing contractors? most of the problems stem from the out of town buyers having estimates for work by a contractor that saw dollar signs and way over estimated projects and an inspector that also threw the fear factor out there by making mistakes and assumptions that made buyers think things were in worse condition than they are!!!(over past 20 years i've renovated 5 homes, so i'm not a newby on this) so we have to go over it with our own contractor and refute with proof that half this stuff does not need to be done and we are not required to do it by contract.
- so as a result the home repairs fixes etc have taken front seat attention , and HOPEFULLY a move in a month - time will tell.

will post as progress is made----

Phil

UPDATE: January 2016 -

As i had stated at the end of December, we have a whole lot going on, including the sale of our house that was supposed to close tomorrow. As a result of that coming, knowing we had to be out, we have been spending every waking hour finishing stuff on the house that had to be done. ive spent 80 hours that i wish could have been on the car, on the house. Last weekend we spent 20 hours moving the remains out and packing it into the rental house garage, and now i find out that our close is delayed and may be in jepordy!!! so sometimes life sucks. We had to make a decision space wise and money wise-- 2 weeks ago i called a friend that has a shop here local to see if he has storage space for my cars for the next month or so. that lead to an unexepcted turn of events!!! a friend of his looking for a project, made me an offer i could not refuse!!
-back in the beginning of this i bought the tub/roller from Billh1963 to be a project to complete , assemble drive and sell to help pay for Copper914, my other 75.
-beginning of the competition i could not decide which car to enter, i went the easy route, very little rust, no structural issues with the black car, copper on the other hand has all the issues of usual rust in rear longs and jack points- but i didnt have money for that-- so Black was chosen and entered. - started ordering parts for both cars, restoration design, AA, 914rubber, etc . got it rewired , cleaned and ready for the rust repair-minimal, the the body guy moved out of state, - then the house came under contract-
-NOW loss of space, time and money i had to make a decision - and took the offer to sell the black car with all the parts for it i had assembled.
+++ i asked Steve about this because i have 2 choices:
1. to drop out - car sold, done - give me that jacket!!!
or
2. Copper car enters in - was already working on it but had stopped to do black car, but ultimately that was only to get enough cash to pay to do the rust repair on Copper anyway- and this car has way more to do rust wise, (still need a body guy)
-repairs would be
-both jack points and rear longs , rear floor pan on driver side,
-strip car down to be sanded and repainted
- put back together
-pull engine to have it reworked by local porsche performance shop(Bob Woodman and George his master mechanic with 40+ years experience with Porsche and both aircooled and water motors, )

question is , how does the group feel about it?. I am still overwhelmed with the possible loss of our sale of the house, and i wont know if it will go thru or not until next week. the lawyers are doing their thing, working on mediating a compromise for my buyers that would be acceptable to the POA as well(long story- i have a dock permit, POA doesnt want it built, buyers want a dock or no sale etc etc)
if the sale does not go thru, i wont have room, time or money for the rebuild- if it does, i can pick this back up again in a few weeks

I am fine either way. Both the sponsors, and the other participants are who i want to weigh in on the subject. You are the ones that should tell me how you feel.
Yes, stay in the game , switching tubs essentially or

NO, out- not much progress i know, so you are not going to hurt my feelings, fair is fair. there are some amazing builds going on and i pale in comparison no matter what.

Thanks guys........

Switching tubs is even more of a challenge, I say go for it!

I encourage you to stay in the game. The jacket is the Scarlet letter, the wall of shame. Really the goal of the jacket is to encourage anyone that is thinking about dropping out to try and go for a restart just like you. From where you stopped to where you need to be is a serious challenge. Are you up to it?

There is nothing I want more than to see this car restored.
The challenge lies in getting the help I need. I can do a lot, but right now I can't do the body work or welding of longs, so I have to get help with that. But I'm gong to press forward then. Let's see how things shake out over the next month or two. I've already recovered the seats, and have moat of what is needed for trh floor and Jack point replacement. One Of The RRASONS I Kept This tub was because of the amount of work I've put into it even before the challenge began!
- I did the 5 lug coversion, rebuilt the tranission, did the rms and reshimmed the shafe, related the clutch and pressure plate, put in new c.v.'s, ew bearing ,pivot shafts bushings and bearings, new brake lines had and soft, new 19mm master cylinder, , new front a-rms with new bushings gs, bearing, 911 turbo tie rods,!!!
The trailing arms and a arms were just replaced with newly powder coated ones from Bruce Stone.
So , I did all that, but my biggest challenge is the rear jack points, and longs., the fix the fenders that got messed up trying to get the 16"x7" Fuchs under there.
I need someone like you, Rick that can do this type of metal work !

So I begin a new search for that help, I will start stripping her down soon.
Thanks for the encouraging words.

If you really a Dr. and know how to fix backs I could use your help as well. Seriously! That's the spirit!

Yep, I've been practicing for 26 years. The last 12 years on staff of our navy hospital taking care of our active duty navy and marine corps here. Also board certified sports medicine (Chiropractic) and privately practice functional medicine and nutrition. Home town is New Ulm MN . Ive been down here in SC for 22 years.

i cant believe that I last posted a month ago, wow.
since then we have been in the process of selling our home and moving.
- Well after weeks of packing and planning and 4 or more delays in closing, we closed last week and started the process of moving last week and weekend!!!!!
I posted a picture of the new garage somewhere else, but its 36x36 and now half full of boxes and furniture!! but I have lots of room to work now and have to get my tools moved. most of my garage stuff is still at our rental, and will get moved this week.
this is where I stand- decision was made in January to sell one tub or the other, the one that sold was the black one, and so switching now makes my job bigger, as this car needs more rust repair, but Restoration Design to the rescue!! I received a shipment of new rear floor pan, jack points, cross support, jack point triangle, doughnut and inner longitudinals etc etc for full off repair of the rear long rust on the Copper car.
- Now I will be rebuilding the 2.0 to a 2056!!!!!! staying with d-jet for now.
George at Bob Woodman's shop here will be rebuilding it - he has almost 50 years with Porsche and now with Bob- he recently rebuilt BillH1633's 2.7 /6 for his 911 ---
we are getting a full off estimate for the new P&C, etc, going to send out the case to Ollie's I guess, so it will get the full deal, new bearings etc, then a new ext. oil cooler too.
-While that happes(slated for pulling the motor in May-that is when they can start) so I have a few months of other things to do, but while motor is out the rust repair will get taken care of, following that with stretching of the rear fenders to make room for the 205/55-16 fuchs that I had refinished this past summer 7" in rear!!
the rubbed and were bend a bit so that will all be fixed, then a sanding down and re-spray of the whole tub.
- My goal here is that it will all be done for presentation at Octeenerfest 2016!!!!

What I had already done: All suspension, brakes-PMB rebuilds, bushings , Dr evil transmission, CV's and rear control arms with new pivot shafts and bushings from Chris Foley of Tangerine racing, and on the front lsat summer Bob Woodman and George helped me finish off the new Turbo911 tie rods, new A-arms(Bruce Stone) with new bushings etc etc. !!!! this was already done so does not count on my build thread, but I wanted everyone to know that all those things I did myself other than the alignment, all new brake lines and 19mm master cylinder have been done by me. I will have help on this build but up to now I have done 95% myself- George finished off installation of the tie rods and did alignment but that's it.
Newly recoved seats, - this last month I got ahead of myself and did the dash and pad - brand new top dash from Eric at PMB!!!! so that does count

will post more picutres but expect a flurry in May when we get the motor pulled to be rebuilt!!!!

If you have the room, I wouldn't wait until May to pull the engine. You may discover other things that need done when you get it out.

And May will be here in no time.

** update way over due!!!
we moved, got settled in and just no time do major car renovation. SO
The copper car is going to CFT- Tangerine racing-Chris Foley for the rust repair, so updates and pictures will come along in the process I am sure.
-my plan is still for the car to be ready for okteenerfest .
here is my wish list for the fix;
1. jack point and rear long fixing- already bought parts from Restoration

** update way over due!!!
we moved, got settled in and just no time do major car renovation. SO
The copper car is going to CFT- Tangerine racing-Chris Foley for the rust repair, so updates and pictures will come along in the process I am sure.
-my plan is still for the car to be ready for okteenerfest .
here is my wish list for the fix;
1. jack point and rear long fixing- already bought parts from Restoration -
this could be more extensive we will see how bad it is once they open it up-
2. with the rear jack points and longs, rear floor pan and drivers seat mounts and cross member repair.
3. this is a big one- rear fender lips rolled, stretched out to fit the 7" fuchs and repair of what was damaged by previous attempt to roll them
they will be repaired and prepped for paint
4. Motor refresh - not sure here, depends on what is left in budget - it could get a 2056 or just top end stock rings valves etc, - it had 146k miles, never been rebuilt. burns lots of oil, low on power, runs hot, my wish listwould be 2056 injection with new P&C, head work, etc etc,
5. repaint: it has a bad respray not properly matched to the original copper metallic-
6. reassembled for the trip in September. - I have everything for the inside,
-I already rebuilt my seats with kits from 914 rubber. , I will put back in what I have

so the road trip starts on Thursday, I should arrive in CT Friday afternoon. I will post some trip pics, wish me safe travels as I am driving it up!!!!!

Wow! Hope all goes well, and wishing you a save and FUN drive up! ALso hope to meet up at Okteenerfest...! Planning to drive up from Atlanta if all goes according to my plan!

Joe,
is this your first year? I missed the first year, went the last 2.
We could cross paths on the way up, I take highway 301, as it goes from Hardeeville SC all the way to the Boone, NC area right near Banner Elk, and it is a 4 lane most of the way but not interstate so great road, scenery etc. , 2 years ago I followed Bob(bigkat) up part of the way, then met a few others as well. great road trip!! .
This is a longer drive this week, but I think i should be good to go. Cooler weather at night, so over heating should not be as much of an issue. I recently had a cutting out issue or studder, and was able to isolate it to an injector going bad, replaced it and has been perfect since. you never know with a 40 year old car, but as much as has been done already it should be up to the trip, justmight have to add some oil on the way but that's it.

well may came and i just had no time to do more earlier, but i have faith that Chris can get the work done - if not i will not be all stressed out over it - i just want it done right so i never have to do any of it over!!, i don't have the skills i know Chris and his crew do, so i am sure this may be the best decision yet.... I know my local shop, Bob Woodman could have George rebuild the motor, but they don't have the staff or time or experience with 914 bodies to do this rust repair, so in the long run, i think it better to have the same place be able to do it all.

I didn't do anything much myself on my car this past couple months, - but that is about to change - I did sort a short in the harness at the injector, replaced and injector, then drove the car 1000 miles to Connecticut , Manchester that is!!
Home of CFR , where there were many fine examples either completed or close, of some of Chris's work.
-ordered a front trunk seal from 914rubber,
-took car to CFR

on the agenda and already started as reported from Chris, with pictures in future
- began rust repair of rear longs and floor pan under drivers side,
- checking out engine
1. Compression numbers came back very good- @145-155 on all 4, and
I guess leak down was pretty good, going to be reevaluated once timing , valves etc get set or rechecked. - if my motor weakness is just a tuning thing, then I will be able to do a couple other things on that front rather than a rebuild:
a. sport header from CFR and SS performance muffler from CFR, with improved oil cooler from CFR,

Chris may post a few pictures of the rust repair, and the fender stretching/repair as it progresses.

expectation is to bring the car home once this stuff is done, and re-paint will be the next step- that may be by next month!!!!
- so the big vendor donation for this month by far is CFR - that deposit for work is what I paid for the car!!! blink.gif blink.gif
now on with the smash.gif smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif welder.gif

Well, I am happy to report that CFR is hot on the rust repair and should be posting some pictures this week.
So basically the car was taken to Connecticut end of May, and they jumped in and assessed the motor health, ran some compression numbers and leak down to see where the 146k mile car was at -
Motor: good news! compression numbers were over 145 for all cylinders, so at this time no rebuild will be done. Probably some tuning, new oil cooler , maybe a few other surprises - depends on cost of the rust repair.
- Rust - list of issues being addressed by Chris and the gang:
Good- no repair necessary in hell holes!!!!!! - solid there,
Bad:
1. rear longs on both sides
2. rear 1/4 floor pan
3. drivers side a bit more so a inner wheel house piece was ordered from Restoration design!!! - only part of it was needed - last week Chris assured me that the repair process and replacement was top of their list this week.
4. rear fender fix- stretching and pulling out with repair of the outer lips - so that the 16x7" fuchs will fit and not rub yet the fenders will look stock- this is goin on this week too.
- t
other minor issue- trunk hing mount reattachment -

plan is to get the car home by the end of august strip id down for paint, local shop with experience working with 70's Glasurit Metallic paints will be doing the work,
hopefull to have it back together and ready for Okteenerfest - still hoping!!!

so please stay tuned - I wish I had some cool pictures so I could get more votes, Chris said he would post some on their site and facebook -

end of july update - I wll be ordering new outer rocker covers from RD this week -

Phil

Hang in there Dr., I would have never thought the Copper car had that much rust.
White car now lives in London, new owner digs the 914's.
Good to here the engine is sound in the Copper Car.

Talk to you!

Vysoc

Good news to report! Here are some photos that Chris just sent- try had a lot of work to do in the rear fenders- the lips were bent badly and creases on the fender from a poor attempt to roll them- then they rubbed and caused paint blistering- the 7" Fuchs didn't fit, but they are staying in the car- so Chris's guys were able to carefully pull them out about 3/4", and replace the whole lip from a donor and in the end you can see the view from behind the profile looks perfect and I think once primed and repainted you will not be able to even see there was work done! - way better in my opinion than putting whole flares on the car- I wanted the stock look and lip, just enough room for the wheels and tires.
Awesome work Chris!


Left side is being done today .-!already done are the Jack points and longs- I will post more pictures of that work when I get it from Chris- there maybe some on his Facebook page-

The last leg of repair is the drivers floor with new cross member and repair to pedal area- I didn't know existed but Chris did so his guys are taking care of it.

Progress!!!!

Dr. Phil,

Looks like you are in good hands.......nice rear stock/flare look!

Vysoc

update as of today:

Chris is almost finished with the repairs on the car. should be wrapped up by the end of this week so I am flying up next Thursday night next week and going over Friday to put stuff back in the car and probably will head out Friday night to drive it home - He put a new aux oil cooler on it for me this week, and they are finishing the last of the rust repair, a spot on the threshold area they found- that should be it! - new half floor pan, pedal area, rear longs, jack points etc etc, drivers side cross member support and seat hinges replaced - rear fenders were pulled out and hammered straight with new lips giving room for the 7" fuchs with 205/55 wheels and rims! - stock look, cant wait to get it home and have the paint done!!! this will be started on August 25th -
anyway I hope to have it ready for Okteenerfest!!

More pictures to follow -should get more from Chis of the project at different stages when I get there.

Right quarter panel tire clearance:

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Nice work Chris!!!!



Vysoc

time for some rust updates - I have some pictures taken by Chris so we can see the extent of what was removed and what was replaced.

- condition of the longs- drivers was worse but the rear inner wheel house on passenger side was worse - floor under driver side - pedal area under cluster, etc.

more

right side rear long and wheel house