Checked out this trailer today. Fixer upper. Not sure if it's worth it. His bottom dollar, 500.

16ft x 75in floor. 98in x ~19ft total. 12in rail height. Mostly 2in and 3in angle iron with 2x10 planks. Heavy enough I couldn't lift it a mm.

Needs a pair of electric brakes, lights and wiring, 4 tires, at least 2 wheels (I might have that covered if I go 5x4.5" hubs), susp bushings. Also ramps.

The floor droops across the middle, likely overloaded the angle.

?? Both axles curve a little, like they were made for a bit of camber.

Plan for it is to move cars under 4,000lb to flip and the 914 to events.

Also toying with making my own that's lighter, using rectangle or something. Haven't seen blueprints I like yet.









The thunderstorm we had a few days ago flooded his yard, so its a bit muddy.

i would pass even at that price.

the axles should have a "bend" the other direction.

the cross supports are bent, the trailer has been abused severely.

the whole thing is suspect. you will probably find cracks trough out the whole frame.

Pass

I've been offered trailers for free that look better than that one.

$500. is 25% of a far better, more car friendly trailer.
Pass.

Go get a steel Carson trailer new.

http://www.carsontrailersales.com/pre_owne...asp?veh=2202735

I had one like this which is about $3500. The deck was nice, but the ramps sucked and loading a race 914 was like loading a tractor climbing the ladder....

I custom ordered one like this about 12 years ago. Got it with drop axels and a ducktail. About $2400 out the door new.

Run away! I got a 16' new dovetail, lower deck out the door fully licensed for 2800 in February.

I'm looking for a similar trailer as well. Any day on CL a nice ready-to-go trailer can be had in the $2k range.

Don't trip over dollars to pick up dimes. . . Leave the fixer for the other guy.

If you are serious about towing long distances, get an aluminum one.

They cost good money (even used). However, they hold their value as well. I bet I could sell mine for what I paid for it.

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Depends on the rating of your truck.
Big tex sells a car hauler for 1995$ here in NC.
Tandem with wooden floor only weighs around 1500lbs.
You can pop the center sections out to lighten it even more or keep in place
to double as a utility trailer.
For 3000$ I would go with a new enclosed.

Trailer Thread- http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=trailer


7x14

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I'm trailer shopping too (for miata race car) and I've seen steel w/wood decked ones on craigslist in the $750-1000 range that look almost new. New ones below $2k. I'm looking for an aluminum 16 footer if anyone has suggestions. And suggestions on how to convince my wife that it's ok to park it in the side yard!

When I had a trailer everyone wanted to borrow it....

You guys do know I fix things for a living right?

Looks like about $1300 all in to get it right. Too close to the cost of a better trailer, and one that I wouldn't have to modify. Plus a 75" deck is kinda tight.

Fun fact... the average car door is 11" off the ground.

http://www.cherokee-mfg.com/


Enough said.

Uhhh,.and if we don't live in memphis?

Maybe I will bring it to you.

Careful, I might take you up on that!

PM'd you - like to know your experience with Cherokee

If you can get an aluminum one they are a lot lighter, you can really tell the difference. If not you can get a short trailer, works well for Porsches, but not much else. A 14' trailer with a wood deck isn't so heavy. We just retired ours after 10 years of use and thousands of miles.
We got ours from the Factory in GA. I think they are under $2000 new.

http://www.curraheetrailers.com/car-hauler-trailers

It worked out well, I had bought a car in FL, so I drove down picked up the trailer in GA, then then the car in FL, and headed back north.

My 16' BigTex was $1200 brand new.

How much truck do I need for some of these trailers (with 914 onboard)? 1-Ton or 2-Ton towing capacity?

I'm in the market for a truck for my 914 project for this exact purpose. I'm not planning on towing for long distances (<100 miles). Was hoping I could get away with a 6-cylinder truck because I'll drive it daily and want better gas mileage.

This is my current truck on the left and my former truck on the right. The Silverado is a 1500, which has never left me needing more power. Other truck guys bust on me that it isn't a 2500 or a 3500, but I tow Porsches and even when I've loaded the big trailer down beyond it's weight limit (20 footer), the truck still has power.
The Nissan Titan had more power but the Japanese can't really build big trucks, they just don't get it, like the time all the lugs snapped on one wheel.
If you have a small aluminum trailer you could probably do it with a six cylinder, but you might want to pick a truck and then talk to guys who have towed with them.

Most v8 vehicles tow 3500 to 4000 lbs.

Car is 2500
Aluminum trailer is just under 1000

Rich

You're looking at it wrong. The important factor is the weight of the tow vehicle compared to what is being towed. A heavier tower is more stable and likely has bigger brakes. HP/TQ just tells you how fast you can accelerate, or if you can make it up a hill with another 5000-7500lbs.

My Nissan Hardbody V6 and Gen1 Pathfinder both have 5000lb rated hitches and both will tow in the city just fine. It's slow and neither stop on a dime but any driver worth his salt can work with that. Trailer brakes help with the latter.

A modern long wheelbase 2500 may tow like a dream, but people were towing the same size cars 40 years ago with c10s and F100s, so it's perception and not reality with others opinions.

Looking at some of the simple smaller trailers in this thread, they weigh around 1800lbs I think. I would be towing a "shell" 914 (no motor, interior, etc....just suspension and tires on the car).

Some 4-cylinder say up to 3500 lbs (frontier for example) but the V6's seem like the happier trade-off for my once-in-a-great-while towing needs. Trying to get better gas mileage ends up with Toyota or Nissan.

Hoping this doesn't turn into a Japanese vs. American truck thread...

I pulled 3700-4000 lbs easily with a V6 Toyota 4Runner. I'd recommend a brake controller though, as you might have the tail wagging the dog.

Towing regulations are important to consider also. You can't exceed the rating of your truck, the rating of your hitch, rating of your trailer, trailer brakes etc, trailer tire ratings. You even need to have the proper rating on your registration- the state wants to make sure your are paying additional for heavier loads/road damage. Big fines in NC if you are in violation of any of these- think 1000$

What percentage of time are you towing with your vehicle? That may be a consideration as to your power/mpg requirements.

395hp, cylinder deactivation, 23 mpg highway, integrated brake controller, 9000lb rating, cheap plastic interior, love it


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If it's a 1 or 2x a year tow, rent the truck and/or trailer

You guys justifying your pansy assed trucks make me laugh

Buy a real truck...then you never have to worry about towing in town, cross country, etc. My diesel tows as fast in the mountains as on flat land. Hell, I accelerate past cars in the mountains of NC

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Ummmm be careful when you poke.

Our shop truck gets the job done

Towing well is more than just the power of the towing vehicle. I have a 92 Suburban 1500 (we call her Beasty, 1/2 ton) and I can get a hitch that will make the towing capacity 10,000 lbs, but I want to keep my transmission working! That said, I tow a Miata with rented Uhaul trailer about once a month, sometimes 5-6 hours each way. Miata weights about 2200, the Uhaul trailers are about 2300 (though they say they weigh 2000). I hardly know it's back there. I really wanted a 6 cyl 4Runner but glad I bought the Beasty. Highway mileage, a/c on, D-low, I get 13mpg - I think that's amazing. I don't use it for anything but towing though. The 2nd pic is pulling a friends sailboat - total weight about 4800 lbs - no problem for the Beasty

I don't have any issues towing with the club cab.

You win! That's awesome

I agree that you need a trailer brake system, it makes all the difference.

I tow mine with my V6 Nissan Pathfinder, been through mountains and stuff no problem. When I moved I had extra engines on the trailer with the 914 loaded down with stuff. I've towed tons of VWs: bugs and busses, a 240Z, and even my wife's old Ranger loaded down with stuff. My complaint with the Pathfinder is that the mpg sucks (even without a trailer). I have friends with full sized, V8 trucks that get better mpg, especially towing.

+1, I want one of those

For prices in the mid-teens, I've thought many times about buying something like this:

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And you can make a little cash on the side

Not sure I want the liability

That being said, you could certainly haul stuff for friends and family (and 914world members) for "gas money".

In a lot of states you need a special class of license, and commercial insurance, which isn't cheap. Not to mention riding in those for long periods of time is not much fun. Much better off with a good pickup and a decent trailer.

I have loaded up an entire warehouse of parts on one of those, at midnight no less, and took them to Scotty B's parent's house, that was a fun night!

Of course, even a pricey trailer has it's breaking point. I had one axle break on me a few years ago, it became un-attached to the trailer. I fixed it in a snowstorm on Cape Cod in a dude's driveway, luckily he had a welder. I crawled under it again this summer and shored up my welds. Well, I was in Rhode Island last week loading up a B Coupe and heard a familiar clank, luck would have it this guy had a welder too, so I welded it up again. But today we are re-engineering the whole thing, putting bolts in addition to welds. Featherlite makes a really nice trailer, but some of their design is really lacking, like where the ramps are stored, I have yet to see one that is over a year old where the doors are broken off.
Oh, well, fix it and use it again!

I want a big enclosed trailer, 28-30 ft, and a Duraburb to pull it. We move every 3-4 years, and it'd be nice to haul my entire garage, cars, motorcycle, etc.

I built this 12' trailer about 25 years ago from plans in a hot VW's mag article.
At the time it cost me $550 in parts.

I need to rebuild it now and wondering what to use for the deck, I want a full solid deck this time but it has to be light. The crossmembers are 24" OC
It was designed for a VW bug, that's why the axle sits so far back, I might move it forward a bit.

I would say whatever you get for a trailer get something that has stake pockets if getting a open trailer. I find it makes it handy for more than just hauling a car. Also get something with trailer brakes and if a tandem axle have the brakes on both axles.

If towing in hills or mountain areas you need something that can pull, but also stop that load. My old 2006 Ram 1500 was fine on small hills and flat(ish) roads, but found out on my first trip to Hershey PA I need a something that had more Umph for towing. I upgraded (some will beg to differ) to a 2014 F250 (Gas) and it does the job VERY well.

YMMV

I still have that article, are the plans still available?

+ an enclosed trailer can outfitted to perform multiple tasks.

They're up closer to $4k now (new) + $1.50/mile delivery (that's a lot coming from the S/E to the W coast)

In 2012, I paid $4k for a second-hand 7x16' (with a 3' V-nose), added insulation in the walls & ceiling, 4 windows and a H-F 5000 lb winch

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This is a great selection of trailers, who wants to sell me one?! My biggest problem is storage - where do you all keep your trailers? My wife's been clear that it will not live in our yard and the driveway is pretty full. I've been thinking about having a 12-footer built that will fit in the garage with a car on it but would really like something a bit bigger. Help!

If I had the money.

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And this is why

I also saw this one out at SEMA, will actually in the circus Circus Parking lot, last time I let my wife book Vegas Hotel Rooms.

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Combine the best features of both