I have a rusty lower suspension console on the passenger side. Is there any hope of finding a donor piece in good shape, or should I just get a replacement/repro piece?
It looks like the repro piece is easier to install since it is hopefully made to original spec and should fit right in.
What is the best source for a reproduction console? Are they all created equally or will I be better off with one vendor over another.
Is there a good video or thread to walk me through it? I found thousands of hits on the list, but have not been able to sift through them to find what I need.
I had hoped I would not be doing rust repair, but ...

time for

and

I will try to get in and get some pictures of the rust soon. I was in a rush to go get my wife and kids at the end of the party and left much of the stuff just laying were it was dropped. When I clean up I will get some good shots since...

They all originate from reproduction design. It's one of the first things to go on our cars so your not going to get one off a tub. Too much spot weld drilling anyway. There are quite a few threads showing removal and replacement. Measure 10x then weld a little at a time checking as you go.

Here's the place & the part ............
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318

Here's the video you were looking for.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v40ZpRL1Osw

Info you need is on Post #3.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...pension+console


I had trouble fitting mine. But it was caused by changing the wheelhouse long too. I had to do it twice. I was an a too far back. Not much. But I'm kind of picky.

But when you put it back on the same long you'll be able to scribe the lines of both sides of the piece you'll be taking off, plus take measurements from every direction.

If this is the only piece you'll be taking off. Buy the spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight. Make sure to dip the cutter in oil about 1/2 thru each weld. Keeps the cutter cool and it with last longer. When you see the cutting change to brown STOP. You've gone thru the first layer.

My .02c while I'm drinking my first cup of coffee.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Here is what I am looking at
Looks like the previous "restoration" addressed the hell hole from above and the battery shelf, but with a somewhat crude approach. I do not want to step onto the slippery slope of rust repair, but I would like to get at least 10 years before I have to worry about this again. Not racing or tracking the car. It is just a weekend fun car/old man project. Has mild 1911 with stock FI going back into it with stock wheel widths.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment
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and the battery tray as it sits
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I found that video, but it crucially lacks the removal of the rusty piece and how to prep the area.
Also since I am doing it without a frame jig.
Is it normal to tap in sheet metal screws? Why I am not just doing tack welds?
Thanks so much to the world for the support. I guess the fact that we work on our own cars so much and have SO much work to do, it lends a real sense of camaraderie. This community is incredible!

Here's my little project ..................
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...87546&st=80
Start at post #95 it will show you the places that will need to be drilled out. The idea is to not drill holes in the second layer, but pretty tough to achieve. It's not step by step. But follow along and you'll some ideas.

As for Adam at RD using screws. Its to hold the two layers tight to create a nice tight and flat rosette weld. Lots of different ways to do it. Cleco's, clamps, etc.
I've been using screws a lot, but not always.

Why it comes time to install the new part. Stay 1000% focused on the center of the hole. That's is what needs to be dead on. Up, down, in and out.

Don't be so concerned with the sides and the top and bottom being right where they were. Weld both sides before you weld the flange on the top of the long. I thinks that where I lost my measurements.

On my replacement I drilled a couple drain holes just about where yours rusted out.

Click to view attachment

When you take these cars apart backwards you see kinds of things you can improve on.

I think that mine will be ok, since now the top is sealed and hopefully will stay that way. I would fear that the drain holes would just act as a point of entry for moisture etc.

My plan looks something like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-in...tter-95343.html

then

http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318

I will add this to my little Lincoln Welder

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lcn-k610...CFdgDgQodXr4FwA

and then I am thinking of something like this to finish it off.
WARNING ADULT CONTENT
Click to view attachment

So I have myself covered, but I need a bit of advice on weld through primers, seam sealer etc.

As is normally the case you have more issues lurking.
Check out the inside of the chassis motor bar mount.
It also looks like the bottom of that area has been patched.

It appears that the last restoration did the repair and replace on the top, but thought that a little surface rust on the inside of the suspension console was not an issue. Now many years later, we know what happened.

Sheer cliff. I sympathize, mine looks similar and I'm just about two steps ahead of you.

You are going to have to pull the fuel lines I installed before you can replace the console......

Put a REAL battery tray in while you are there.

And I hate to say this... but I am NOT the guy you want when it comes to this type of work. I can fix electrical, engine, transmission, interior and suspension, but I am lousy and paint and body. I farm that out.

So I have myself covered, but I need a bit of advice on weld through primers, seam sealer etc.

U-Pol for spray on weld thru primer. SEM, thin and runny. NAPA a bit too thick. IMO.
I use NAPA because its easy. But it makes a BIG ASS mess. I'm going to try shaking it longer.

On my project I've used 2-3 different brands of seam sealer. But I'm learning that I should be using a newer 2 part product. Supposedly the old school stuff will harden over time and crack and let water in, like what we see in the rear trunk area. My paint store sells Fusor brand 2 part. So that's what I'm going to switch to.

What about the eastwood primer?

Cleaned up the rust area to reveal the extent of the damage.
Click to view attachment
That is a pretty big hole.
This seems less critical
Click to view attachment
Is it a bad idea to try to patch this rather then replace the panel? I am juts looking to make the car safe to drive and enjoy. You can see that if I want to do restoration, there is a lot of work to be done (no jack channels on sides, home made battery box etc).
My fear is that if I cut this apart and try to weld in a new piece, I will find that the panel behind the console is too rusty to weld in my new piece(fairly likely) or that I will not get things lined up correctly as they go back together and have repaired the rust but ruined my car (less likely but more embarrassing).

sorry to say...Tip o' the ice burg.

get in there aggressively , clean and sand blast


http://www.restoration-design.com/mm5/merc...mvc?Screen=BASK

This is why I am interested in an option other than the iceberg. I am in no position to take on an entire iceberg at this point. It might be better for me to get this one back together and sell it at a loss and start over.
Or make a serviceable repair, put it back together and enjoy it until I am ready to tackle ripping of that whole passenger side engine bay area to deal with my concealed iceberg.

my 71 1.7 has a replacement from restoration design.

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These cars are 40-45 years old so it's really hard to find a low rust example. Step back, catch your breath and let the group help you over the hump.

That much I am in for, but my fear is what lies behind that suspension console may be in worse shape than what I am seeing. Once I have cut the old one off, there is no going back.
I have two young kids, so this started with the local 914 guys helping me get my motor in since I don't usually have time to work on it. I had hoped to sneak out one or tow days over Christmas and measure, cut, clean and weld in the new piece. Then perhaps find a weekend in Late January to have part two of my motor party to see if I can get my car running. I did not buy it as a project. I had hoped to drive it!
Not as my daily, but I hoped to see it move under its own power and enjoy it as a vehicle.

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water ...............

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you take the console off.

You'll need this after you put the console on.
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/91.../rd-9-1-08.html

Those are pieces I've been hoping Restoration Design will make before I get to that point.

Hopefully we can get them added to the wish list.
Pounding them out like a caveman is a PIA. It would nice if they were formed.

Even though I've only done a couple of these. So my body of work is kind of limited. When you hold the new console in your hand you see the captivities where liquid will/would get trapped. That's why I put the drain holes thru the tie plate and the console. I guess my kids/grandkids will find out if my logic was sound on the next restoration.

As for this one I'd have to say this car had a MAJOR battery acid issue or the drain hole on the console was plugged or welded shut. IMO.

Click to view attachment

I think the new part from RD will be made with Galvanneal so it will have a better chance at surviving. I can't remember if it had the RD sticker on it

Galvannealed or galvanneal is the result from the combined process of galvanizing and annealing to produce specialized sheets of steel. The galvanization is made through the hot-dipping (Hot-dip galvanizing) process and an immediate in-line annealing and gives a very fine greyish matte finish.

Does Restoration design claim to make these parts? I received a PM from AA claiming that they make their own parts, as well as the ones that Restoration Designs sells.
Does anybody know the story on this?
Also I asked AA if they make the patches referred to here http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/91.../rd-9-1-08.html
Maybe a series of requests can get them, or some other vendor, moving in that direction.

AA.... ha.....

Based on my inquiries and purchases. Some parts are made by RD, they have a RD sticker on them. Some made by AA's guy, the long stuff comes to mind. Then some from Dansk. Stoddard ??

With the limited number of 914s produced and still intact we don't need multiple vendors making the same part. Tooling costs are very high and we need these guys too remain profitable. My .02c.

Do you have a picture of what it looked like with the console removed?
I am trying to get as prepared for this as possible...
(I don't see one with a spot weld cutter and a very concerned look.)

Here's a shot from ndfrigi.

Click to view attachment

The circle in a circle are the spot weld cutter spots ............
He did good. Only punched thru in four spots.

Actually I credit it to Mark (markesteinhilber) who did the spot weld removal.
Thanks again Mark!

It's really not that bad of a repair. I did one for a friend on his 6 that must have had a battery explosion. It was otherwise a rust free car. Once I removed the old console and engine tray, the new one fit right in. I rosette welded it in and the owner took it for alignment and it was dead nuts on. Go figure!

Charlie

So there is a chance that the console is the worst of it and that I can do this right. That does not look impossible at all.
I hope to get at it again and do some heavy cleaning and see what I am up against.

I was on the fence about whether to patch or replace the console. I went over and was cleaning up today and realized that it had been patched previously. I was all ready to patch it.Click to view attachment
when I saw a little something and cleaned away some surface rust to reveal this.
Click to view attachment
I will be replacing the console. It will probably be easier than trying to patch that mess.

Be ready for some more extensive work. The rust on the motor mount bracket is what worries me. Mine looked like that and I'm having to replace that section of the long. I also had extensive rust in the hellhole though.

I have a battery tray and support for you.

Then I should probably get the console with the shelf... I hope to cut no more than required and replace only what is mandated by safety and performance. I am satisfied with my battery tray. It saves weight, like a GT!

This is not encouraging.

Doing a Google search it looks like the factory part # 91450104411 is NLA.
JimEllis Porsche has the factory parts catalog online, it comes up NLA.
It comes up on the ECS site at $947. But I'd be surprised if they have it. I would assume its a drop ship link to Porsche.

Having put on both pieces, I think it would tough to install it like that. But that's just my opinion.

I was thinking of going with this.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/detail.php?part...l_number=206041
If I have to go and start cutting out extra parts.
I still prefer just cutting the welds and pulling the console and using some patch panels to tie it back in.

Does getting the console with the shelf help at all? It is hard to tell from the shots here, but all of this appears to be underneath the shelf and not related.
Is there any advantage to getting this?
http://www.autoatlanta.com/detail.php?part...l_number=206041

I am so discouraged. I got my suspension console in the mail this week and snuck off to the shop to work on the car for an hour or so. Started to clear the way to cut out the old console and started grinding to get at the welds only to realize that I had "patches" over several sections that I need to get to in order to cut out the welds and remove the console.
Pictures below. Now I am back to thinking that I should just patch and put it back together and save the new console for when I am ready to cut out ALL of this mess.
Any words of encouragement of advice? Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

It's kind of like peeling an onion .............
Here's another vendor and stuff we hadn't shown you yet ...................
http://www.maddogsmotorsports.org/HELL_HOLE_REPAIR.html

IMO your console is rotting from the inside out ......... so I think patching it is not really a safe option.

I think that what I have is a home brewed version of that hell hole repair kit, but it was applied over what they thought was a good console, that had started to rust but just was not finished yet.
I suppose I must do something. George at AA suggest grinding off the patch, removing the console and looking. He is optimistic about its potential to not be ruined, but either way it is a win for him. I on the other had could be in a lot of trouble.

If you want to put off the big repair, I think you'd need to get some rust killer inside that console and long before/after you patch it. You could probably drill a little hole and use the Eastwood green frame stuff.

The suspension consoles rust from the inside out. So if you patch it now, in a year or 3 you will be driving down the road and it will fail. It's already 40-45 years old. It's one of the most critical rust points on a 914. It happens on almost every 914. Better to do the full blown repair now, do it right, put it to bed, and enjoy driving your car.

I think both your assumption and Georges advise is dead on.
The problem is the PO made no provisions for the removing of the console in the future.
Click to view attachment
You need to figure out if the part I crayoned in is a cover. I think so looking at the weld over the console flange on the right. But don't assume.
The trick is to become an artist with the cut off wheel in short order. Your going to use the thin edge to grind down JUST the weld, not the panel surfaces.
I'm going to start using a cut off wheel like this also. Gives you way more control.
Please wear a face shield when using the cut off wheel without a guard. They are pretty susceptible to chipping
Click to view attachment

If I take on this repair, my fear is that a year or 3 down the road, I will still not be driving the car.
The phrase "Ran when parked." terrifies me.

Quoted for truth.

You might be able to just remove the part of the patch that is covering the console corner. Just grind that part of the weld off, and then cut the patch layer along the console edge- it should be easy to extend a scribe line from the part of the edge that is not covered.

Also, if no part of that console is salvageable, I would just cut the exposed part of it out of the way, then you can pry on the remainder from the inside, so to speak.