As mentioned oil tank drain,would be be slow to drain but will do.
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Found a local source of a high zinc oil for the motor,kinda an old school oil and recommended for this engine,Penrite is an Australian company and have used their oil to got result with some old BMW's I used to own.
Well all going well I may have it running soon .

Porschetub, regarding window frame, turn the adjustment screw moving the frame to the outside (door skin) from picture you have plenty of thread.
The bottom frame going out will make the top of your frame go in and will fit against the rubber seal better. Best, Mark

PS....they will always be out of adjustment when a door is stripped. The screws have to be screw in all the way to remove from door. Then when put back in they need to be move outward again. Just did this on my 914-6 GT build, lots of fun....Mark

Thanks Mark,I didn't mention that but I made the adjustment and it worked great,window is now snug against the roof seal,cheers.

Done a bit lately ,fabricated a battery holder,stripped the top of the engine down to fit loom to the altenator and made up a battery to starter lead.

Lots of pissing around getting it right but my plan is to try to get it running then pull the engine and sort the front engine mount to get the engine forward in the car...I have a solution for that.

CDI unit tucked around the front side of the battery holder,gone for a compact battery which has enough punch.
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Pushing along today cleaned up body earth connections at the battery and above gearbox ,hooked up starter connections and sorted earth (ground ) connections for CDI.
Hooked up starter/solenoid and reverse light wiring.
Carbs off for final settings and will leave air cleaners off for balancing air flow when I start it, if it runs ???,I tend to get worried about an unknown motor that I bought around 15+yrs ago but it was running then and all indications seem ok.

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Mostly ahead on the job and its going well ,Perry has been top notch answering my silly questions....
Got oil pressure and oil temp wiring in today they are basically stand alone add on's but ran the wiring for the oil pressure thru the heater blower fan circuit as per Perrys excellent instructions,bridged terminals 9 and 11 from the 14pin relay board plug,looped and soldered and I have continuatity to the wire in the tunnel...good result.
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Tapped a fitting into one of my aircleaners for fuel tank vent as I have deleted the expansion tank,trying to drop and unwanted weight from the car.
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All care taken but my own silly fault ,had some cracks and was a little stretched at the top and then bang it broke .....next reply run out of pic space

End result is fixable,or just add it to the list of things to do .
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Spend a lot of time cleaning up all ground points and did all connections by running dies down all the threads and was surprised how crappy they were.
Been a lot of work but prefer to do it once and and right.

Cars coming along nicely. Well done. Taking heed to some of your methods.

Thanks I'am rough and slow and often redo stuff .
My shortlist;
Set up accelerator pumps on carbs and refit,
test fuel pump and check pressure setting for regulator,
finish resurfacing twisted valve covers,
reconnect oil tank return line,
recheck all oil line connections,
complete wiring for distributor,
wire up from tunnel to oil pressure gauge,
refit relay board,
lots of other small stuff...

Funny have done more on the car in the last ten days than in most of the time I have owned it ,really helps to have ALL the parts you need and the stuff I setup and prepared early.
Went right through all me oil lines today and got them all lined up and did a trial tightening on the found they were all biting in on the tapers.
The oil cooler line (suction) was my main concern as the whole cooler just isn't that strong, careful support of the alloy tube hex allows you to apply good tension to hose nut.
Put a few litres of oil into the tank and no leaks on the suction side but time will tell when its full and warm
Got the relay board installed and all plugged in ,cleaned up the multi wire earth connection under it ,it was rather rusty but came up great after running a die nut down it.
Hooked up battery and tried the starter off the key...no go (and yes new ignition switch) ,I really think the seatbelt interlock is still intact under the passenger seat,will check tomorrow.
Made a jumper up and the engine cranked nicely so my starter is ok,tick one more off the list .
Hope to get carbs back on and final wiring for the Pertronix done this weekend....maybe I can get it to run?.

Woke early this morning and was rather keen to check the seatbelt interlock to see if it was intact or not.
Tried to release the "bastard clip" off the runner but no luck,had the 4 hinge bolts out in minutes and seat out,found the OP had been in there,this is what I found ;
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Went through my collection of jumper connectors I have made up from past jobs and various ones for the 914 and bridged both wires..good result and the starter cranked over using the key.
Popped the 2 wires out of the relay block and added a large Duraseal connector,I like these as the provide a positive waterproof seal I have no intention of reinstating the system in the future so it works for me.
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Feed the oil pressure wire down the tunnel and had a tidy up there also,confirmed original connection point for oil temp wire back to gauge and that's working when the key is on,however something is screwy with the tach as it bounces when the key is on ,have another issue with my temp gauge but have a plan which will sort that.
Did a final check of my carbs while they were off,dailed in the excellerator pumps pump adjustments and that took awhile...real fiddly,plan to test pump volume and spray pattern Sunday.

Progress of sorts,got my wiring all hooked up and the carbs back on,couldn't get the fuel pump to run off the key so jumpered that to the battery and it worked fine, I like the carter pump it is very quiet.
Set fuel pressure to just over 3 psi and checked for leaks,I don't know why but the Holley LP regulator I have won't go any lower in pressure than where I have it,Iam not really concerned as the fuel bowls aren't overflowing.
Added a further 5 litres of oil to the oil tank not sure if the marks on my PMS oil filter dipstick is that accurate? but won't really know till I get it running.
Cranked the engine for a short time and got oil pressure quickly,but it soon became obvious I have no spark,my plan is to bypass the cdi and see if that's the problem.

Well after a bit of a battle sorting out the electrics and a few emails to Perry about suitability of my set-up I found I had screwed up and powered the Pertronix's of the wrong wire,god knows how I did it but I had one of those light bulbs that lite up above my head and I remembered what I had done this morning.
End result was a rewire and some tidy up work,refitted the battery and after a few cranks I woke up my 2.2 six after what I can only remember as around 18yrs since I bought it.
Huge amounts of smoke from the tailpipe (blue) had me worried I think I killed every flying insect in the area,it soon cleared and sounded very strong and smooth no timing chain thrash ,funny I guessed the engine timing and got it really close ,glad I fitted a hand throttle as it was good for warm-up.
Oil pressure is stable @ 25psi @950 rpm and easily pops up to 100psi @ 5000rpm,however my tacho is a little erratic @ the higher revs.
Only have one issue to sort,the fuel pump won't power of the key so I have been running a jumper cable to the battery....minor stuff really.
Final tuning in the weekend.
VERY happy guy .

Looking good Man...looking good. Well done!

Thanks for your comments,lots to do still but real easy after all the work done ,really helps not buying a car full of tin worm,I really feel for the members having to face that on here honest.
Working late tonight before the sun went down,the engine wouldn't return to idle as fast as I wanted ...found one throttle linkage to long adjusted that and bingo sorted both carbs running more even @ idle.

Now that I have my oil pressure sorted I started getting the driveshafts in so it can be driven on to my loaner trailer and around to my mates shop to remove the engine/gearbox on his hoist.
Worked on carbs yesterday and found 2 small leaks on the RH side one,turned out I hadn't tightened the the 2 brass caps in the top enough.
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Valve cover leaks are pretty much sorted,only found one of the 3 that weren't twisted,glued course sandpaper to a sheet of glass and worked them flat again.
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Today I hope to get the fuel pump running of the ignition but early indication is that the black/red wire in the loom has a break in it somewhere as I can't find power there but I have it in the 14 pin plug,old cars aren't they fun????

All happy in 914 land until the oil cooler popped and is leaking a bit but not too much,can still drive car but know it won't get any better.
Talked to PO and he said the cooler was good we are both at a loss to know why it is leaking,I removed the oil pressure relief valve and found both that and the spring to be ok,what to check next???
Plan is to adventure out to the tarseal soon and see what it has,love the sound and the motor is strong ,I still need to dial in the timing so I can balance the carbs before that.

Wow, great progress and way to knock out the issues.

Dumb question, but isn't there a way to completely eliminate the engine compartment relay board entirely?

Ha ha so true,thanks Micheal but getting it going is only the start of a huge list of must do's.
So much wiring/ electrical issues to sort,will get there.
Bugger the cooler leaking but I have another on the way...found one in my country not too far away but fairly spendy.

Lawrence how are you? yes Perry give me the option of deleting the relay board but was too stubborn to do that after spending hours doing a full clean and reseal on my one,then it bit me in the ass cause the standard FI switch over didn't work to run my carb pump so I bypassed a fused wire to my heated rear window power supply...will never use that anyway as my rear window is sans the wiring besides..
I choose the Carter low pressure pump and it has a fairly low currect draw so shouldn't be an issue without the relay board but not sure what you do without the power supply relay ? Perry may chime in here.

Got a bit done in the last couple of days,got a breather setup on the PMS filler and it works fine,pity the dipstick provided cant read any oil level,thinking it only works with there tank not my stock one .
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Oil cooler continues to leak but one drip about every 20 seconds so manageable,can still go out for test drives and the oil pressure is great,put a temporary gauge in from a 924 Porsche and it reads the same as the mechanical gauge I have above the sender.
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Put my little racecar GSM battery back in to the new battery tray ,really great lite weight solution,packks a great punch for $50 and I have used and abused it for over a year now.

Continued,
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Excuse the wiring ..nothing is really tidied up yet.
Lots of stuff not working but if I advance the hand throttle to max it starts with 2 pumps on the throttle and then idles clean handthrottle off and sits @ around 900 rpm ,very happy.
My brakes a a major PITA and haven't got better,bleed and bleed again but still have low pedal which is firm,will keep on that.
Will report further.

Got my wiring tidied up in the engine bay yesterday,used a 3pin Deusch plug off the CDI and a 2pin one off the distributer,I like these little waterproof plugs,the crimping tool for the plugs is rather expensive but I plan to add more of these plugs behind my gauges to clean up the birds nest of wires there.

Got my oil pressure gauge working,it now reads the same as my mechanical gauge I have mounted on the engine,I'am using one from a 1974 911 and its correctly rated for my senders.

Oil leak on cooler not got any worse will pick up replacement next week,bugs me this issue but can still test drive but not too far.
Test drove again today and after playing with the carbs got a much smoother run,had a bad lean mix backfire previously.

The left hand drive has got me a little confused,keep reaching for the handbrake to change gears .

Today was good ,pulled the oil pressure safety valve and it was stuck solid ,took half hour to get it out must have been some crap in there ?
The cooler has stopped leaking as a result,funny cause the experts on Pelican had no answers interesting ????,shame for not asking on here .
First test on the open road today car has great power very happy,brakes are coming right with more bleeding and road use.
And the sound of the six is amazing from 3K upwards is just wonderful,very hard to get bored with that.
Cut out the firewall ,not my best effort but can clean it up,hooked up timing light and found the motor was way too advanced,set basic timing and its running heaps better but very low idle at that without the carbs setup right.
Geez these motors like to leak oil constant work sorting that and the crankcase is sweating in a few places but not too bad.

Test driven on the black stuff and really fun for the last couple of days,motor noise/power is to die for...really, shit these things handle well.
Have a lot of issues to sort but every day gets better,well I thought the old british motorbikes leaked oil but Porsche have that down pat,have various leaks in all sorts of places some fixable and one not so .
End of the test drive today it became very obvious something was wrong with the clutch,got home and found a collapsed clutch pedal arm bush,so much for the PO and his rebuild on that,have a bronze bush kit as I bought one sometime ago.

Rebuilt the pedal box PO had done a great job painting all the parts but little else,clutch arm was very worn so I welded a piece of 10mm bolt in there and redrilled the arm...huge improvement.
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Gear shifting has been a bitch,gate for gears not right ,spent 10mins and reset as per DR Evils advice now really good,have ordered bronze bush for gearbox so it can only get better.
Oil leaks ???? ,they seem to be developing everytime I drive it,think I will call the car Exon Valdez,if it didn't run so well I would be really pissed off.
Retimed the engine today and got it right on the mark or as close as I can without a tacho that reads right....mines a little unsettled in response,will email Bob from tachadapt and see if he has any idea's.
Muddy and dirty by worth a pic or 2.
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More to follow,

Yep will lower the front a bit more, was really low before so wound it up a bit ...too much,however I'am faced with a very poor road before I get on the black stuff so have to be sensible as I need all the clearance I can get.
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Just to add to my woes the gearbox shaft seal has let go ...could be worse as I thought it was the RMS.
As the engine has to come out again its not an issue to fix .
Engine wiring is near to completion and happy with the sealed plugs I used.
All things pretty much sorted in the engine bay ,just some tidying up but most will be done on the next engine pull.
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Had some setbacks on the very last test drive that I discovered today;
gearbox input shaft seal leaking,
RH side handbrake (911 conversion ) dropped a steady pin and lunched a lot of parts in there,expect not fitted properly by PO,....actually I know that, oil leak I thought was cooler,but turned out to be the thermostat fixed that and have another leak in the same area,front suspension alignment is woefully out and other smaller issues.
However as a newbie owner of one of these cars still real happy ,

Just tackle one problem at a time and you will get to the bottom of the list w/o going crazy. Good luck; car look nice.

Thanks ,some days are a real move ahead on the list of must do's,others are backward steps,however lately things have got better.
Had a massive oil leak on a lower rocker cover and found this !!!!
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lucky I had a spare and was a lot more careful fitting the replacement.
Got my brakes dialed in I had in the last few days before pumped through all the old fluid and found it to be clean enough but had been in the car since the early 90's.
Found that repeated drives moved what air was left in the system to the calipers,these brakes are awesome and really good feel and stop great.
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My emergency brake needs work and have parts coming from the USA to sort that issue.

Nice progress Dean.

Thanks Dion,has been going well really,off the road @ present to sort rather large oil leak,made up a basic block off plate out of some old alloy I had lying around and pressure tested removed cooler...results were as I thought.
20psi revealed a huge leak PO stated it was all good but it had never been on the original engine he was going to fit in the car (3.0 911) live and learn as you do....
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Replacement cooler is from a 72 911 so will need to get my suction fitting tigged on but need to bore it out in the lathe to get it to the larger size for this cooler,found a guy local to weld it for me so that's great.
Other jobs now that i'am semi on jackstands is to rewire the CDI so I have the right tach signal,move the engine forward and sort the POS gear linkage rod the PO had built by someone that was about 12yrs old or something
Have a rear bronze bush to go into the gearbox end of the rod but that won't fit so I will machine that when I do the cooler fitting.
Have ordered transformer coil for ignition system as Pertronix II coil is all wrong for my permatune CDI,Bob Ashlock @ tachadapt has been a huge help getting this sorted for me ...great guy.
Moving ahead day by day.

Replacement cooler flushed and cleaned,cut the old fitting of the leaking one and counterbored it for the larger suction on the new cooler which is off a 1972 911.
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Used a thru bolt to hold the fitting to the pipe for my welder to deal with ,this should keep the fitting square on the suction pipe.
Pipe support from the old cooler won't really fit so he will make a new one.

Well my cooler work was really slow ,first guy Greg a fabricator pulled the pin on me and said he wouldn't touch it because of oil contamination in the alloy...fairs fair so he directed me to a alloy boat builder,clever guy checked out his work and he was happy to do it.
We decided to bend the suction pipe down somewhat so he could get his torch in there ,this didn't worry me as it gave more clearance to get spanners in there to tighten the hose.
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Will pressure test again today but confident his welds are ok.
Got a big box of goodies from Pelican and my emergency brake parts turned up from Matt @ retroautomotive.
Got my rear engine sheetmetal plate off to remove old cooler so fitted rubber grommets for the wiring that passes through it,there's no movement there but dread the thought of the hot leads shorting out on it.
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More to follow.

Car is back on the road again after a number of setbacks,the main issue was a leaking input shaft seal on the gearbox,my fault as I assumed the seal was ok and was told the same by the PO.
I can't complain as firstly I thought it was the RMS leaking which was new when I resealed the engine,I do however have some "sweating @ the case join near the seal,have a plan for that.
Dodged a bullet here as the oil had reached the clutch disk but cleaned off ok with brake cleaner,I had a seal installer I made for a type 1 VW box and it worked perfectly,the old seal cracked up when I was removing it ,looked totally original .
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The gearbox shifting is a work in progress,I had now idea what a PITA it would be to get right,the rear rod provided with the car was really crappy so I repaired the welds and made it straight,this as many have pointed out isn't correct,Perry was kind enough to supply me with the details and I bent some offset into it seemed to help.
I was never very happy with the fit of the plastic rear bush so sometime back I ordered a bronze/lead one,some careful work with a file and I was able to open out the hole .5mm ,appears these are supplied oversize to allow for wear.
IMO these are a must have item for a side shifter and @ $14 are good value.
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Every drive I have in this car gets better as I fine tune various things,really impressed with the power of the engine,can't help but wonder what a 3.2 or 3.6 would drive like......

Wow! Nice thread front to back. Perseverance is key to success in a conversion. My 3.0 has been underway while i drive the car as a 2.2 with 40IDF's /

Who is Perry?...... I am in the wiring process now and maybe the P-Man is the way to go verses stabbing at a potential firestarter.... And did you have all of your 914 and 911 gauges in hand for him to get the loom correct?

BTW, My lovely wife and I have enjoyed your continent a few times and really love the open roads. We rented a BMW 3 series ragtop for our month long visit last.. what a great scene.

I am using Rich Johnson's mount and bellcrank system for the accelerator as well... pricy but first rate work all the way / and a great guy for info even if not a buyer of his parts (a914guy@aol.com)

Also, what tranny are you using? 901 sidey? And a front oil cooler??

Stock sideshift transmission,Tangerine Racing bulkhead bush,don't need a cooler on my 2.2 runs 185-190F max so real happy with that.
Perry Kiehl is a member on here he made my 4-6cyl engine conversion loom,good quality product and he happily answered all my questions....great guy.
My gauges are all standard 911 fare ,if I remember right the tach is from a 72 and the combo gauge is from and early 2.7,standard VDO 52mm fuel gauge is mounted in the dash about where the cig lighter would be,works correctly and is easy to read.
This gauge is an easy install and I think a good solution to buying or building a triple gauge,the standard wiring needs to be extended to supply backlighting and power but that's no biggie.Click to view attachment
I have fitted a 250K metric speedo since this pic was taken.
I was very interested in the throttle linkage set up you have but built my own for around $60 from parts sourced from the USA and locally,I was able to direct those funds elsewhere in the build.
New Zealand roads are for real drivers I have my own little playground in my local area,lots of twisties and hardly any traffic on them.
Yesterday was taken up with small jobs on the car,my main concern is the rear gearshift rod and I have officially given up trying to adjust the shifter,I'am now very certain that the rear lock screw hole isn't indexed in the right spot,my biggest issue is the car popping out of 4th gear,it just feels like it not going into the gate far enough.
Still chasing oil leaks,lower exhaust valve cover continues to weep,so that will get resurfaced again,have a small leak @ the oil temp sender adaptor and another @ the right hand side cam line oil restrictor,easy enough to deal with,the main thing is that my cooler remains oil tight.

Started a list of stuff to tidy up and chewing my way into it .
Gearshift was really pissing me off ,certainly takes the edge of the driving experience,while @ my friends garage I was able to cut the engine carrier mount and move the engine forward 12mm,the effect of this was no more body contact with my k&n filters and the caps around the engine tin are now correct.
I suggested to my friend that I was less than happy with the stock gearshift coupler,he wanders off and comes back with a nice little uni-joint and says ''what about this'',after some lathe work modifying both rods and I had a better solution.
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A test drive revealed a much improved shift action but no engagement of 1st,3rd,and 5th ,found the joint was hitting the bulkhead bush so moved it back...bingo,lucky I made the rods longer.
Got my Outerwears on the K&Ns amazing how much really fine road dust they pickup as you can see in the pic,they look purdy too
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I have no handbrake warning light in my combo gauge so for want of a better solution I wired a warning buzzer under the drivers seat,works a treat,repaired the slop in the handbrake pivot @ the same time.
More to add......to be continued

And more....
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Been playing with my carbs a little,had a bit of spitback on three random cylinders,opened air bleeds half a turn and now much improved,funny people say these cards are hard to tune....yea right .
My old motormeter carb balancer isn't working for the job so have a uni-syn on order,I may dial back the idle jets a little,man these motors can drink fuel,think I need lighter shoes .
Had a new VDO volt meter in my stock of parts,bought a gauge holder to mount under the dash pad but it looked really tacky so I moved the foglight switch and bored the dash with a holesaw...not for the faint hearted as keeping drill speed down is an issue.
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More fine tuning on the gearshift today and hopefully another test today.

Been a while since I updated but have achieved a fair amount in that time.
Received my Boxter wiper motor so I can improve upon the slow wipers I have now,we do have our fair share of rain here even in the summer.
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Dug out my set of Cibie Oscars so plan to fab some custom brackets and mount those,have decided to do a rally tribute car theme and do a martini racing centre stripe on the car.
Removed my seat backpad and repaired some past crap upholstery repairs and fiberglassed the crumbling cardboard added some sound insulation in there too,came out ok and fits a lot better.
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My fresh air fan has never worked ,last time I had the tank out I tested it and after a clean it worked fine as tested with my spare battery.
pulled the control and found the contacts on the lever were cooked,I have no heat but I do need air to defrost so I decided to delete the control completely.

Dean ya have me thinking now. I have to locate my combo gauge and check it
for brake warning light. What is the top "red" lite on your gauge? I see oil & gen.
The outerwear screens on the K & N looks trick.
Cheers mate

Traced the control contacts and used the rear window heater switch I had spare to run the blower on speed #3.
Made a blanking plate up for the dash.
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The air is now directed permantily to the windscreen and dash pad vents,I blocked off the hot air inlets on the heater valves also.
Amount of air is good and will only be better when dash pad vents are closed,fan motor was noisy to start with but is now ok.
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Switch has back light and I will change it to indicate fan symbol,real happy as it works fine.

Hi mate,my top light in the my combo gauge is low fuel now ,maybe playing caution to the wind but my brake system is near new and really works great,honestly prefer to know I'am running out of fuel ,a carbed 911 motor is a hungry beast afterall.
The combo gauge I have IMO is the best solution for oil pressure and temp reading for a six ,not my choice and came with the car but works,I have stand alone fuel gauge in the dash again done by PO.

Had a another box arrive from Pelican which included a new "Syncrometer" so set about adjusting the balance of my Zeniths,I tried setting @ 2 rpm ranges but got the same result,adjusted about 4 of the air bleed screws around half a turn out.
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I was getting a fair amount of spitback when the engine was cold,that has lessened now and pretty much gone when the engine is warm,great tool and found it much easier to use than my old Motometer one.
Before doing the balancing I spent a lot of time setting up the linkages so both carbs were even,to me this is one of the single most important things to do before fine tuning.
Got rid of my old back tyres as they were old and starting to dry rot,had a near new set of 16's so put those on,the old ones appeared to have a wider tread ,the replacements have given me more clearance @ the body,strange how tyre brands differ this way .
Starting to have a win with oil leaks,my RH side exhaust valve cover was leaking,so I removed the cover only to find the inlet valve cover was the culprit,resurfaced that (again) on my sheet of glass and dry as now.
I still have a very persistant leak @ the oil tank,I just can't get the fitting to bite into the tank thread,its not something you can really put too much strain on,I feel some thread sealer may be the only fix ?.
Gave the old thing a wash,hadn't done it for a while......
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Not a lot of 914 time lately,did a clutch change in my son's mk4 GTI Golf while he was home from uni and built a boat trailer for the neighbor so just got back into it recently.
Continuing to re engineer my gearshift set-up,purchased 2 uni joints from Moore parts and another rear bronze bush and coverted the shift console.
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I had previously contacted Chris @ Tangerine about buying his version of this part separately but he wasn't keen...no worries so I fabbed a piece from steel,hardest part was aligning the shaft square to the bushes,got it first time .
Machined up a piece of 304 stainless and polished it for ease of movement in the bushes.
End result was a much smoother shift action,appears to be a more positive feeling when selecting gears like you really fell them going in......road test will be the proof hopefully.
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Due to the last discusion on here about 911 air cleaners I decided I would return to my stock plastic one so to do that I needed to repair it due to melting from spitback on the RH side carb,various size blocks of and a heatgun I managed to get it back in shape.
To be continued........

I need to relocate one of the aircleaner clips on the RH side as it hit the rear bulkhead otherwise the aircleaner is a good fit now and certainly offers more protection than the K&N's.
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Just when you think the list is getting smaller something new always crops up,my wipers have stopped working and my newly rebuilt altenator isn't charging properly ,it only makes 13V and struggles to stay above 12.4 under load.
Bugger if I know whats wrong I have a new engine harness ,regulator,rebuilt relay board etc etc,the charge light functions correctly so assume the altenator has excitation.

Haven't done much on the car lately,neighbour needed new boat trailer so built that then a local builder wants a large flatbed built so started that and then my mig broke down so everything stopped at that point.
Good friend rings up and says come away with us to our lake house so jumped at that,4 days of laxed out time ,loved it and for the first time in my life caught 2 nice trout trolling,really enjoyed it.
Car is up on jackstands again and I 'am changing out faulty Bilstiens for Boge/Saches gas touring inserts till I can sort issues with the harsh ride.
Bought a ricer car steering wheel and found getting in the car is much easier and it feels nice to drive with.

Kinda wanting to get really back into the 914 but really like plying my old trade as an engineer...been a while.
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Lots of work to do but as always picking my way thru it .