Hey guys (and gals). I know there are some older threads on this, but I am looking for a car lift that can go ~40" lift, doesn't need wooden ramps (for a 914) and doesn't break the bank. This Atlas lift from greg smith seems to come with shipping for $1745. Does anyone have this lift or something similar?

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-EM...se-Scissor-Lift

I keep looking at this kind because I want to be able to get to the center of the car better. (For other cars.)

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD...le-Scissor-Lift

I agree wth N_Jay's suggestion. I have a neighbor who has had that lift for several years sans any issues. The more open base is a plus.

As for Atlas in general, I've pleased with my two post lift.

I have actually upped my looking to the 7000 LB lifts since the GL320 would be pushing the limits of the 6000 LB lift.

Next house is getting a tall garage! (More likely a separate working garage)

That is the lift I have. If your 914 is stock or very close to stock ride height then you won't need ramps. If your car is lowered like mine, then yes you will. It really isn't a big deal to make up a set of ramps.

Thanks guys, it does look like you have much better access. My car is pretty low, do the ramps get in the way when you are working on the car? i.e. are you always tripping over them, etc...?

On the recommendations from some folks here, I bought a used Atlas 6000 over the summer for $900. Then built a couple of ramps from 2x10s (on top and a ripped 2x6 underneath) so I can park over it in the garage. When the car is in the air, I can just move the ramps out of the way if needed.

That's what I do. It may take a try or two to get the right placement of the ramps so you car is centered and such, but once you have them where you want them just make a few marks on the garage floor for placement (I used a sharpe) and you are set. Most of the time I just leave them in place.

JustinP71, just cut a hole in the cement.......Easy afternoon job, nothing to trip over. Mine has a cover I can drive over or raise as an additional 4 x 8 work area. Best, MarkClick to view attachment

Just another shot, 914 on wood dolly on top of wood lift cover. Was great at getting to all the tough spots before repaint. MarkClick to view attachment

Good morning mlindner (Mark) please elaborate on your weekend project to cut a hole in your garage floor.

Thanks

David

Harpo, I did have a friend to help....but the process went like this. Rent cement saw( the one I got was new with new blade) it cut the 6 bag mix almost as fast as cutting wood, could not believe. Then dug the sand out, down about 16 inches. The cement pour is a two step process, first pour base making sure it is level (my floor has a pitch to the floor drain). Then next morning framed up sides with a little rebar into the base. Second pour. Done.
I just used bag cement, and a little cement mixer that fit in the trunk of my wives Passat. If interested I can find pictures. NOTE, cutting cement is very dirty/dusty. I visqueened all sides of the garage off and had the hose/water going while cutting the cement. OK it took two days. still best thing I've ever done. Mark

Found a few pics, let see if I can post them all.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

My apologies to JustinP for the slight de-railment off the original lift in question.
What about this open scissor lift. Yeah its like $700 more, but you have better access to the center for other vehicles if you need to ?
No I don't have one just been eyeing them since they announced free shipping.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Kw...B-Mid-Rise-Lift

Sorry about the hijack Justin and thanks Mark for the photos. How thick is your new slab? It looks like you also cut a slot for your hydraulic line.

David

The old cement floor was only 3 1/2 inches thick with fiberglass imbedded, the new slab was 6 inches with a little rebar. Yes, sorry Justin, off the tracks we went.......mark PS with the scissor lift being lower in the floor, I can use the truck extensions for the lift making it possible to replace exhaust systems on newer VW Bettles and Jettas......for the Porsche's no problems.

Did you tie the old cement to the new cement using rebar and holes in your new cement?

Thanks again

DAvid

Hi David, no, no need for that. The base for the lift (slab) is so stable, maybe five times needed. The six inch poor on compacted sand is enough to lift a commercial truck. I can give you a little schematic of the cement layout if you want. Best, Mark

And you have been happy with it for lifting 914s. I need to order one too and was thinking about this one.

Maybe we should do a group buy or something to get a price break ?

Yes please Mark.

I've been shopping for a used one for a year. I'm in the $1k range and they're not popping up in the DFW market.

The PIT looks like a good idea ... but hard work!

I would be in.

Hope this works, again this schematic is for my BenPak, but is the same size as most. Best, MarkClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

Justinp71, back to your question. Looked over the Atlas site...It just seams odd to have the lift going in the other direction in regards to the weight of the car either being in the front or rear, lift would not extend to front or rear for stability. Just FYI, Mark

Thanks for the input guys! I have some thinking to do. I don't know how well my original option will work as I think you need another 1 1/2" to fit in the lifting blocks. I'll have to do some measuring.

I like the hole in the floor idea, but that might be a little too much work for me right now.

As a follow up to my own question regarding a GB. I contacted Greg Smith equipment and inquired about it. I think if we had a central location where GS could unload all the lifts at one place we would have more bargaining power but I know everyone is all over the U.S. When I told him that, GS only able to offer $50 off for the lift, better than nothing right ?

If anyone is interested PM me and I can provide the contact information for GS.

Now the question is which one, after thinking maybe I don't need the open center one for the additional $$, how often would I drop an exhaust or really do a trans job I ask myself. So I am leaning towards the MR06 and TD6MR I believe the difference is you get a set of truck adapters for the TD6MR, chime in if I am wrong ?

As far as installation goes, I would need to hire electrician to upgrade the garage breaker and ensure the wiring can handle the current, anything else I miss to consider ??

Thanks

I agree that $50 is better than nothing. However, did they give you an idea of what it would be if they dropped them all off in one location? Perhaps that discount might make it feasible to them have them shipped from there, to the purchaser's home, and save even more? I was thinking drop them all at a freight facility where they could then be re-shipped....

For me, the $50 would not get me to buy right now. I am still a year or so away from doing my garage.

Shameless distraction: I just dropped some decent money to do area drains, french drains and tight lines around my home. .5 acre, so not real bad, but that would have done my garage remodel, including the in-ground lift and porcelain tile floor, for sure. On the upside now, when it is pouring here, my wife is laughing at me as I stand in the rain looking at the water flow into the big cement drain that was installed in this property, along with the other homes on my street, when they were built. It really is cool to see all that water being handled correctly instead of pooling on the property.

I am in also considering the same two models. There are several differences besides the truck adapters which I wouldn’t need.

The other differences between them are (65” length/ 36 max. height without extensions for MR-06) and (82” length/ 47 max. height without extensions for TD6MR) and the MR-06 only has three locking positions and the TD6MR has 7 locking positions which might be nice.

I am really interested in getting one of these two models within a week or so.

Jeff B

I have the TD6MR and love it. It is nice not only for working under the car, but inside also. I hurt my back last year and working on my car and parting others with was nice to have the different locking positions. When I was doing interior stuff I could get he car waist high and not have to bend so far to do carpets and such.

I have had my lift close to 6+ years now and it is by far one of the best investments I have made for doing "car stuff" in my garage.

I also have a mid rise lift.. Ive owned it for a couple years now but haven't used it yet...

I built stepped ramps so there is clearance to adjust and lift the car BUT need to make the "centers between the wheels removable" after the car is in proper position..

But, these things are VERY heavy and not as easily moved as one would expect...

Thanks...

Steve

Ordered my TD6MR today so should have it either by Friday or Monday. Thanks for getting us the $50 dollar discount.

Jeff B

Per Garrold's recommendation, I also purchased one from Greg Smith Equipment a little over a year ago. Making the ramps was easy and mine can be easily moved away if needed. I just wish I had gotten one years ago!Click to view attachment

I got my TD6MR lift from Greg Smith Equip. last week and had it delivered to work. Thanks again “porsche913b” for getting us the $50 discount.

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I used the forklift to load it into my trailer and backed it into the garage. I used my tractor to pull it out of the trailer enough to get three jacks under the skid and lower it to the floor.

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I then used a steel bar to slide it slightly off the skid and then used the jacks to lift it off of the skid.

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I built the ramps using one sheet of plywood and two layers of 2x4’s and they are a total of 14’ long. I started with just one layer of 2x4’s but it was just a little too low since my car is lower than shock. At some point I would like to sink it into the garage floor but this will work for now.

Click to view attachment

As everyone has said previously I really wish I had bought this a long time ago since it works fantastic for my 914.

Unfortunately the arms aren’t long enough to use it on my wife’s 2008 A6 so I am going to have to figure something out to make it work for her car. I didn’t have time to check if it would work for my S5 or Cayman S yet but whatever I figure out for the A6 should work on all of my cars eventually.


Jeff B

That looks like some task I don't have nearly all the resources to move and unpack that thing. I guess it will depend how creative I get. I wonder when they deliver would they have some pallet jack or something so I can drag it in my garage at least.

How do I know if my garage outlets are able to handle the lift. Did you have an electrician buddy check the installation ?

Thanks for follow up Jeff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

consider this alternative - MaxJax - a lot less install work and lifts 48" - easy R&R 914 engine-trans - mine was $1900 delivered

- and - it unbolts & gets out the the way when you want the space for other things - no forklifts required

you can come look at mine & try it at zip 95635 (40 miles away from Justin)

Click to view attachment

I do not want to hi-jack this thread, I think it is suitable info/questions related to the topic.

Interesting post, since I was looking to find info on a tilting lift and wanted to find out if they are suitable for 914's. The ones shown are a bit similair to what I was looking at, but slightly different.
Can we use a small Tilting lift on our 914's ? Or will 914's not like the place on the car they are lifted with this ? Right now I use the donuts to jack up the car, but this would help me a lot if this was possible.
It is a lift like this:
Click to view attachment

it is really low when 'at rest' and does not take up a lot of space (measurements are in mm, millimeters)
Click to view attachment

a similair thing in action (nice relaxing music in the background)
https://youtu.be/vQT1-EibbbE

I understand there are better alternatives than this, just wanted to hear if this was usable or not because of the way it lifts the car.
Thanks for your advice or opinion.

Wiring is just 110, 20amp breaker using #12 wire with ground. Petty standard for most garages, or easy to run external with schedule 40 pvc over drywall or panelling. Best, Mark

A small bump to see if you have an opinion on my post above
" Can we use a small Tilting lift on our 914's ?"
It might be a great christmas present in case it is suitable for 914's.
thanks for your feedback.

My arm would give out cranking that thing.
Observations
-Floor jack and jack stands would be quicker and easier.
-I don't see any locking mechanism. I wouldn't get under that thing.

With an Electric hydraulic scissor lift, its a push of a button, locks in various heights and goes up to 4 feet high. Even with my low ceiling garage, I can roll around under my car with a garage stool on wheels. No more rolling around on my back working on the car.

I have a bendback scissor lift. Got it for $1200.00 before steel prices went up, many years ago. Best investment i ever made as a car hobbyist. It's just gonna get worse as you get older.

my vote

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I really like this one. I wish I had seen it before I got the scissor lift. Very nice.

How trusty are you of the Max Jack's floor bolts? Are they held down with compression style floor studs? How many are there for each side? the two post lifts always give me bad feelings thinking that the posts would cave in toward each other. Unfounded?

held down with 5 bolts, I cut out two 4'x4' slabs and poured a thicker slab of high psi concrete. The bolts are the epoxy type. No worries when they are installed properly.

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There is another alternative to the scissor and two-post lifts - they're both limited to about 48-50" lift height. For a little more you can go with a single-post lift. It's portable and can be moved around the garage with built-in dolly. I haven't tried the 914 yet, but I suspect I'll need some 2x ramps to drive it up onto to clear the 4.5" base.

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Does the Maxjax lift the car high enough to park another 914 underneath? I'm sure the car on top would need the wheels removed for more clearance.

No

Guess again...
Just finished my Maxjax install and now have two stacked in the garage. I added the 3" Risers for more clearance. Can't be happier not having to use jack stands.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

I just had my BendPak mid-rise, flush-mount scissor lift delivered. I expect that within the next two weeks we will be cutting the concrete slab to excavate, form, rebar and pin our new concrete so we have the pit to install the lift into. The floor will be porcelain tiled to complete the job.

This is tied to a full garage remodel with new cabinets. The cabinets will include one section for just the lift hydraulics and motor. All lines will run through a PVC chase in the floor, wall or cabinet. Should result in a clean garage and still allow for service, removal or replacement of the lines if there is ever a problem.

Once we start laying this out and cutting concrete, I will be taking photos and posting them. I am so happy to be able to do this. I am tired of kneeling or sitting on the floor to play with my cars. Hard on the old body.

It seems that the pit would be a constant " lookout " when moving around on a castered stool....