QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ May 3 2005, 01:19 PM)

I would recommend the Porterfield street compound brake pads, not the Porterfield race compound.... Motul is probably better, Vegas Racer's experience notwithstanding. I know more people who have had fewer problems with the Motul than with the ATE fluids. If you still had a -4, I would suggest an adjustable proportioning valve over a tee.

i just came from the Porterfield site and after i *eventually* found the car model in question (hint - they only have a few years listed for any given model...) i discovered that they actually have 4 compounds. we can eliminate the Race and Endurance Race compounds, but in addition to their street compound they have what they call a "Vintage Race" compound that sounds like it'd be pretty decent for AX and DE. i'm thinking very seriously about giving that a try at the 911's first big track day, which may be Watkin's Glen this October. i'll probably have sets of Race and Street available - just in case...

one of the aspects of the very high dry boiling temp fluids is that they are even more hygroscopic than street fluids - so it REALLY needs to be kept fresh. as in change right before a track event, rather than right after. Earl's also has a pair of very high boiling point )wet and dry) fluids, but since i don't have as convenient sources for those, i don't plan to try them any time soon.

i DO like the Valvoline SynPower fluid.

on proportioners, i almost think our cars have it backward... especially if we can learn to avoid panic braking and carrying Way Too Much stuff in the front and nothing in the back, the balance seems to be pretty good - at least that was my experience with the S calipers front and stock, widened calipers back, on my /6. if they're well-balanced with the tee, for adjustment, we'd want to be able to limit braking to the *front* for cases like rain, where there is less weight transfer.

in theory, you could mount a pressure-relief valve type proportioner anywhere in the front system but i'm really leery of that.

ideally, we'd run dual MC brake systems with a balance bar; they're expensive tho...

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ May 2 2005, 10:26 PM)

Save your money. The other way to control bias: Run sticky pads up front and run Pep Boys crap in the rear.. or vice versa depending on what you want. B

That's how I'm handling bias with a 'T'. Everything is working great so far.

QUOTE

in theory, you could mount a pressure-relief valve type proportioner anywhere in the front system but i'm really leery of that.

I actually tested that. Late model Corvettes (92-98) had a "buffer" in place right after the MC. I put one on a 914 in the front... AWESOME. It did exactly what I wanted. I could nail the brakes as hard as I wanted and it would "bleed" pressure to the front calipers slowly (I say slowly.. I mean fractions of second worht of soft delay) Barely noticable, but it kep the tires moving instead of imediately locking them up.


B

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ May 2 2005, 10:24 PM)

M-Calipers - -4 Rears - T-fitting M-Calipers - -6 Rears - P-Valve A or S-Calipers - -6 Rears - T-Fitting A or S-Calipers - M Rears - T-Fitting A or S-Calipers - Carrera Rears - P-Valve 930 Calipers - Carrera Rears - T-Fitting

What about A calipers in front and stock 4's in the rear?

I just put in a T but will that be enough to get atleast some power to the rears or should I use realy good pads in the rear and just decent one in the front?

Here's what I'm going to do:

Install tee, install Porterfield race pads front and rear,
and change the fluid.

I'll see how that works and duct cooling air if *needed*.

BTW, are people leaving their dust shields on?


KT

You can use the dust shields as a place to force the air into.... IE make an opening in them on the back and bolt the air hose to it...

Theres a kit for it for the 911's I think on PP's....

QUOTE (trekkor @ May 4 2005, 01:53 AM)

...are people leaving their dust shields on?

i leave the dust shields on the workbench until i can put them in a big box with all the other dust shields.

on the front, i do re-install the 3 M6 bolts to keep crud and corrosion out and to fill the holes.

on a vented-disk car, cooling air is directed to the eye of the disk; that's what the kits that look like dust shields do (they don't shroud the disk tho...)

solid disk cars are harder tho - you can't just direct cooling air to one side or you'll wind up with a giant Belleville washer. you need to find a way to get air to both sides.

You beat me to it. Yes you have to make a splitter that cools both sides of teh rotor to keep warpage to a minimum.

ATE Blue fluid or eqiuv.

Porterfields are hard to "bed-in". If they are not bedded-in properly thet may never be right.

I use PAGID "Orange". Simple to "bed-in". They work good "cold" or "hot". ie A/X - track.

Never a problem braking from 100mph to a sharp 90 turn.

Ken 180