Basic descriptions....

Djet = analog or mechanical

Modern EFI = digital

trigger method:
djet = mechanical points (replacements can be found NOS or replaced with digital points)

modern = crank position sensor (these die and leave you stranded, hard to replace depending on location)


air flow:
djet = mps which uses a inductance via a bellows (brand new bellows assembly available)
modern = hot wire or map (these are known to die, just replaced one in the family Volvo, wasn't cheap)

tps:
djet, mechanical sweeper, (I think NOS or maybe replacements available)
modern = digital potonimeter (another item that is not 100% bullet proof)

So everything fails at one point or another. If the Djet was "that" bad it wouldn't still be around on thousands of cars still and someone would have come up with a bolt on solution to replace it. (used on more than just 914's)

Great info ,,and thanks for dumbing it down so i can understand

So it looks like im sticking with djet druck

Until system failure

Then ill be shopping for carbs and cam .....

Purr

Meow

I'm not going to lie, if I stumbled upon a pair of carbs at a great price I'd probably jump on them and ditch what I have.

Just so i can keep an eye out

What is a great set of carbs .


1.webers ,spain ,Italian or chinese s
2. Dells
3. Weber copies ? Empi ?


Any of those ?

Call me crazy i know f.i or modern f.i is technically best but

A motor refresh , carb cam, new valvetrain and dual carbs
Sound like a hell of alot better then the djet thats just go's
Buzzzzzzzz on down the road

My next engine upgrade.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap


Enter "121g" in the search box.

Does anyone know of a available L jet system 4 sale or Trade?
Would like to try it

Funny story, I took a bone stock 1.7 d-jet car to RRC last year and wound up passing a couple carbed 2056 cars on the high altitude climbs. They were sputtering out while the d-jet kept my 1.7 running like a sewing machine. I can stand outside the car, turn the key and start it in pretty much any temperature at any altitude and almost always on the first compression stroke to boot. If you are running a stock motor and are not happy with d-jet you are doing something wrong. As an added bonus the 1.7 d-jet parts tend to be fairly cheap in comparison to other options. If you mod the motor its a different story but i cant see why anyone running a stock 1.7 would run anything but d-jet, that is unless you want to spend the money to go full custom fuel injection but that is a LOT more work.

Carbs,

Best drivability are Dellortos 36mm for your engine.
Next would be Webers, Italian, Spain, avoid all else unless you have to. These will be 40mm 44 and 48 are to big.

BTW, them Germans being crafty bastards happened to us carbs, on some of the European 914s. And I am not talking 914-6s I am talking -4s Some times you can find these also.

I would also not shy away from the single barrel dual carb units on a basic 1.7L build. Used a lot in the VW crowd, and a re a good little carb if your not looking for big numbers.

Here is a set of Redline Weber single carbs, $419 not sure of quality

And a good article on understanding VW carbs.

And Ebay Dell 36mm complete kit, there about, you will also need a fuel pump. I like the CB Performance Rotaries.

Put a WTB in the classifieds, lots of them out there.

I bought one of these, but could never get it to work right with my stock 1.8 FI. Probably need a 6 to get it up to 88 MPH

I think the redlines you had the link for seems perfectly doable
But the photo showed the manifolds that didnt seem to be for a 914?

But being as my 1sr car was a baja bug and my neighbors builds class 5 bajas .

They always use a single carb dual throat weber over dual setup
With dual port curved manifold and the carb in a airbox
I guess its easier to protect 1 vs 2
No cross linkage
No multiple fuel lines
Since it will be taking a beating they avoid the dual setup

So i wouldn't be opposed to that setup

But any guy selling a single carb 914 manifold is probably a asshole

You will hate the way it runs with FI cam...
This is a sports car not a bus.

Class 5 is a different animal and you are correct, the mantra is keep it simple.

I would go after a set of Dells before I went with any weber variants. The Dells have an extra transition circuit in them, make the more linear in the response.

To do a carb system correctly you will also need to find the now rather unobatiuum Mallory Unilite dizzy. Or go with a stand alone coil pack setup.

Don't forget the cam, and headers, the 1.8L heads can be pretty good, 2.0L are better, but have a bunch of problems and finding good ones, next to impossible.

Don't forget headers also. Unless you need heat. I ran just seat heaters in mine, keep the wife happy.

I need to save some coin and get a set of headers on my -6, Chris will be my call.

So again, this would be my build if you can find th pieces to do it.

1.8L
96mm pistons stock bored over, or if you can find round Das go for them. Keith Black Pistons.
Cam depends on EFI or Carb
1.7Litter rockers modified to clear the 911 swivel foot adjusters.
valve train geometry set, some times stock rods are dead on, it is odd, I got lucky.
Solid spacers on the rocker arms
Do not vent the heads, if they ae vented plug them.
EFI D-jet you have to keep the stock dizzy, everything else will be dependent on what you do.
Header If you need heat, SS heat exchangers, tubing slightly bigger than stock, and a 2.0L banana, you can make them into a sport muffler if you want dual pipes hanging out back. Or rally and cap two or one depending on what your doing.
Better oil pump, or dry sump it Street you can keep the simple stock setup, though I would make it full flow.

I am a huge fan of EFI, and have considered changing my -6 over, but the cost of TBs have keep me from doing that currently. I am running a coil pack independent ignition system from Simple Digital Systems called the CPI. Why because my 914-6 came with a Mallory Dizzy, can't find the parts, I have a Bosch, but figured why mess with points, confessors, and compromise.

If you want to do EFI, It is as simple as stock intake runners, and using modern components to replace the aging D-jet stuff, as discussed here all read. Or you can go individual runner TBs, but a single TB in a common manifold is a very good system for a street car, and it is quite.

So now the key is pull the trigger and do something anything really. We can build these things in our heads millions of times over it is getting out and doing that separates you from the rest of the pack.

Some people are died in the wool think Porsche VW engineers where the best and would only build the best they could. That is true when given free rein and no budget, unfortunately the 914 was built to be sold as a mass produced car, lots of compromises. So it is your turn to make the car the best version you want it to be. If that is dropping a slightly warmed over type-4 cool, if it is a -6, cool, if it is a subaru, or LS, or even a TDI, I say cool go for it. It is your ride enjoy it, make it your own, just make it.

Last two paragraphs was also for me, to get off my ass today and spend some time in the shop, building the -6.

If you do go with a single-carb setup, consider heating the manifolds. The Beetles with the single carbs had heat risers to try to keep the fuel mixed into the air; most of the setups for the Type IV engine give you long unheated intake pipes which are very prone to fuel drop-out.

Realize that there isn't a lot of expertise around single-carb setups on a 914. Most people who have them don't deal with them at all and just accept however they run as how the car runs.

--DD