more

more. This shot's for Martin Baker

AWESOME! Looks great! Your work is first class, as is the car!

Thanks for your recent help with my oil system. Hope to meet you and shake your hand someday.

MB

Careful about not have loose items and small children pulled back into the engine compartment when the cover isn't on.

Nice work!

So cool!

Congrats!

Congrats! That's a great looking car and clearly a ton of TLC entailed.

I wonder if your fuel pressure may be too high, contributing to leaks? I went to the PMO solid rails long ago cuz the stock banjos did not enthuse me...but they look very non-stock and add $$.

Just about time!

Fantastic Rory! Will it be ready to roll into Hershey? Look forward.

looks great! I, too, did the firewall hatch. my wheels and tires:

front wheels 7x16,
74mm studs 21mm 944 spacer

rear wheels 8x16,

tires: TOYO Proxes R888 225/45ZR16 front, 245/45ZR16 rear

Two more pics, drove it a little more today.
Found the source of a tight spot in the steering.
After near complete disassembly of the front end and thorough process of
elimination it turned out to be a problem with the bearing in the front end of the steering column.
Bearing on order. Two steps forward....

...and the second.
Needs to lose some altitude

Looks like your running the front oil cooler lines down along the left floor into the mouse hole ¿¿

Yes Martin
Essentially copied the original GT layout.
I'm running repro brass long pieces.
I fabricated parts to position a 911 thermostat under the drivers side engine
shelf.
I also modified the front latch panel to mount a repro 906 front cooler with
my own version of fiberglass duct work.
There are pics further back in the thread.
Please review. You'd like it.

Congrats!

It is such an amazing feeling to finally get them running! I'll bet you are wishing for some good weather to come quickly so you can really enjoy it!

Jeff B

Very exciting. Congratulations.

I've seen the car in person. Looks better than the pics - and they look good. Against the right background, this car will pop. There's lots of small details that work really well.

Hey Rory, Congratulations from Nova Scotia....amazing....those trailing arms.....I have not seen that before re cuts out....so cool and some weight....I am assuming you will not lose any strength as a result....again, wonderful work....dont know how I missed this. Grant

Somehow missed this thread for a while. Car is looking fantastic.

awesome rory, looking forward to seeing it in the flesh

Rory asked me to put a shot of my L80E (The Light Ivory Crew) car here, which I would never try to invade another persons build thread, but we texted about it, so only as how cool a Light Ivory car can look, here is my turd, formerly a 1975 1.8 car, now a lowly SONAUTO replica, which I Vintage Race now and again...and only because I was told the "Cool Guys" have the Light Ivory cars! Personally I like Signal Orange, but Light Ivory all the way BABY!!!

MB

Fantastic looking car,well done,great feeling on the first engine start,still remember when I did mine,good to hear your sorted your fuel leaks sorted I had the same issue but found the banjo bolts tightened up a little more with the carbs mounted on the engine.
Yep those Martin Baker euro conversions are great,I just have to get off my ass and wire them correctly.
Keep up the good work .

Well as it turnd out the very worn bearing was not the only issue.
After installing the bearing ( FAG 6003 10 x 17 x 35) I still had vey tight
parts in rotating the steering wheel.
I had already determined the rack was good, the three shafts were all staight
and the universals were not loose or too tight.
Could a universal be bent ? they certainly looked fine.
Using a simple method I determined the joints were not faulty.
What next ?
I gathered all the steering shafts and joints I had and looked them over
carefully,
I noticed that three of the center shafts I had were one length and a fourth one
was about 8mm longer. Hmmm. Also the machined recess for the binding bolt
on the three shorter were positioned uniformly....on the fourth shaft (the longer one) the two recesses were in a different arraingement to each other.
So .... out comes one like the three shorter and in goes the single longer one.
Voila !
According to the parts manual early 4 cyl. cars and 914 6 models had the same
center shaft. The longer one. With the different bolt recess positions.
Both the length and the position of the universals relative to one another
was causing the binding
Live and learn.
I haven't done a search on this subject (!) is it a known thing ?

70-71 4 ...72 up 6 and 4

Rory - It sounds like you were first using the later 914-4 shaft instead of the shaft that comes with the 911/914-6 column - is that correct?
@rgalla9146

Mark I assume that is the case.
I cannot posiively determine which shaft is which.
I can't access and measure intact cars.
My project car has a 914 6 steering column installed as accurately as I could make it
and it did not work with the shorter shaft.
It now works with the longer shaft.

Glad you figured it out.
You would want the early shaft anyway to match up with an early wheel. The chamfer is different on the later shaft. It has a rounded shoulder for the later wheel to rest on. The early wheel and the early shaft have a square cut shoulder. The splines are the same so everyone assumes the wheels are interchangeable but they really aren't if you want proper fit.

Mark I now see the parts list posted by sixnotfour and it shows that the six
shares the middle shaft with later four cyl. cars, not early ones.
I'll review my parts book listing.

Clearly shared part with later 4cyl. cars ....but without part numbers attached to a part
and being unable to measure a installed part I cannot be certain which is which.

Preparing for Hershey.
Had to remove front bumper and spoiler to complete some details.
A couple pics.
Looks like I'll be refinishing my jack soon.

another

Grillwork looks great! Clean install in and out! This is great inspiration!

Re earlier discussions, interested to see how your trunk lids behave without the pins !

Interior and carpet details.
My new carpets had no formed recess for the hand brake.
My seats ?....same issue.
I did not want to make cuts and just hope for a clean result.
Here's what I came up with.

fiberglass

And the result.
A little more work and some paint....Voila !
And find some truss head screws too.

better pic

I thought the carpet was recessed with heat, rubber mallet, contact cement.

I was researching this yesterday. Looks like some are able to glue the carpet in shape. A lot depends on the stiffness of the material.
Found some cases wher carpets were formed with wet carpet was formed with a heat gun and pressure.

@rgalla9146

Mark and Bruce
The carpet does have a 'plastic' backing and the supplier said to heat and hammer it into shape.
I didn't like the idea of gluing the material only to have wrinkles and be
unable to fix it. The square weave carpet was big consideration.
Also the car has a longitudinal kit that made the recess very irregular.

I really like the fiberglass piece you made.

Way to think outside the box!

Makes sense and it’s your car so....
Amazing build.

some interior pics

Almost done ...

Do you notice the oil line cover when you are driving

Maybe I'll notice it on a long trip.
I've only been on the highway for fifteen minutes or so a couple times.
Doesn't seem intrusive.
I might use it as a base for a dead pedal.

Hey Luke.....you'd think so right ?
The list is still long
At least I can drive it now between work sessions.

a small picture review
February to MayClick to view attachment