Full Version: My '70 V-8 Assembly Thread
Excellent work. Looks Great!
Well, I'm still waiting on my windshield to arrive and rather sit around with "my thumb in my ass and my mind in Arkansas" I decided to investigate this large clump of under coating. I noticed this upon arrival but left it unattended until now. You know the thought process. If I don't touch it then things will take care of themselves. AKA Rust Phobia. 
So on the lift I removed the front wheel to expose said clump. I pinched it and the hive crumbled only to reveal rust. 
Oh well this repair was detailed in a couple of restos recently so I grabbed the grinder and began to clean the area only to discover I'm one lucky SOB. The rust was from the small truss piece. I don't know why it rusted away other than poor metal prep at the factory. 
I left 1/2 of it in place and ground out the rusted part. No, I'm not going to replace it. If this was stock I would but we're way past that now. This pic shows the extent of the damage. It also let me see into the front area of the long which was in great shape. Why? I'll get to that in a moment.
Click to view attachment
The small hole on the left was patched, welded and ground down in a few minutes.
Click to view attachment
So on the lift I removed the front wheel to expose said clump. I pinched it and the hive crumbled only to reveal rust. Oh well this repair was detailed in a couple of restos recently so I grabbed the grinder and began to clean the area only to discover I'm one lucky SOB. The rust was from the small truss piece. I don't know why it rusted away other than poor metal prep at the factory. I left 1/2 of it in place and ground out the rusted part. No, I'm not going to replace it. If this was stock I would but we're way past that now. This pic shows the extent of the damage. It also let me see into the front area of the long which was in great shape. Why? I'll get to that in a moment.Click to view attachment
The small hole on the left was patched, welded and ground down in a few minutes.
Click to view attachment
Easy peasy. Now onto the hole in the long. At this rate I'll be finished in 45 min's.
Click to view attachment
Wrong! After stitching in the top of the repair piece I decided to weld up the left side because it was more difficult (in the corner) then finish up the right and bottom side of the patch piece. After about and inch of welding the left side the welder began to act as if there wasn't any shielding gas. Screw it. I moved onto the right side and as I welded I noticed something dripping from the bottom of the long. Then those drops began to burn and smelled of paraffin. Reminded me of a Zilch Bag! 
What the Hell. I scraped this crap off the garage floor and now believe it was either Cosmoline (spl) or some home brew anti rusting agent made with paraffin. I spent the next 2 hours heating the front of the long with a torch, spraying the crevice with brake cleaner, blast with compressed air, rinse and repeat. Eventually I was able to create a welded glob that ground down nicely. What a Royal PITA but I remind myself how lucky I am and that this waxy agent has seemingly worked! 
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Wrong! After stitching in the top of the repair piece I decided to weld up the left side because it was more difficult (in the corner) then finish up the right and bottom side of the patch piece. After about and inch of welding the left side the welder began to act as if there wasn't any shielding gas.
Screw it. I moved onto the right side and as I welded I noticed something dripping from the bottom of the long. Then those drops began to burn and smelled of paraffin. Reminded me of a Zilch Bag! What the Hell. I scraped this crap off the garage floor and now believe it was either Cosmoline (spl) or some home brew anti rusting agent made with paraffin. I spent the next 2 hours heating the front of the long with a torch, spraying the crevice with brake cleaner, blast with compressed air, rinse and repeat. Eventually I was able to create a welded glob that ground down nicely. What a Royal PITA but I remind myself how lucky I am and that this waxy agent has seemingly worked! Click to view attachment
I wonder if someone sprayed cavity wax in there. I love that stuff but have to keep reminding myself not to spray any until all my welding and painting is done. I feel your pain on those corners. They are a giant PITA and I still have one more to work on. Ugh! Nice work on yours!
I sprayed the longs with the Eastwood Internal Spray Coating. Their site says it is
"phenolic resin". Could that be it? Lime green.
If not, I got nothing...
Great Job as always!
"phenolic resin". Could that be it? Lime green.
If not, I got nothing...
Great Job as always!
Bob, this stuff is brown but who's to say it wasn't green before it was heated and began to burn? I'll taste it and get back with you. 
I'll taste it and get back with you.
I gave up on acquiring the correct glove box door. One member vendor and another member both said they had them but they didn't get back with me so.................I ordered a piece of .032" 4130 from Aircraft Spruce. $8.37 later and a quick trimming I had my Glove Box door.
Click to view attachment
This project came with the smaller GB door (later model) however this is a '70 and needed the wider GB door. I used an 8mm threaded rod socket and an 8mm x 16mm SS bolt. It's not pulled up in this pic.
Click to view attachment
Done and done with that.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
This project came with the smaller GB door (later model) however this is a '70 and needed the wider GB door. I used an 8mm threaded rod socket and an 8mm x 16mm SS bolt. It's not pulled up in this pic.
Click to view attachment
Done and done with that.
Click to view attachment
Another item checked off the list. I noticed there was a Tick-Tick coming from the right bank. My rubber hose stethascope revealed it was coming of the center of the right header. Pulled the header and found this.
Click to view attachment
Dye and file revealed a low spot between the exhaust ports. A quick couple of passes over the header and it was dressed. I used the newer style SS multi-layer gaskets. They ain't cheap but I wanted to do this one time only. A drop of oil on each bolt and a proper torque wrenching later and it was silenced.
Click to view attachment
While I was in there I increased the plug gap to .045". That made a big difference in idle.
Click to view attachment
Dye and file revealed a low spot between the exhaust ports. A quick couple of passes over the header and it was dressed. I used the newer style SS multi-layer gaskets. They ain't cheap but I wanted to do this one time only. A drop of oil on each bolt and a proper torque wrenching later and it was silenced.
Click to view attachment
While I was in there I increased the plug gap to .045". That made a big difference in idle.
I've been driving a 25 mile course while ringing out the cooling issues. I run the same exact course when the ambient temp is 84F. I know 98F would be better but I needed at temp I might see everyday, this time of year, in order to have a base from which to accurately compare the runs. At times this becomes boring so I kicked on my WSW to see how they were doing. Fine on low but when I switched to Hi my digital combo gage went blank. 
Since I was familiar with this run and expected temps I continued home where I replaced #8 fuse and everything was back to normal. The next day while returning and close to home I kicked on the lights as it was dusk. Bingo, the little Gremlin returned. Once again the gage went blank. This time it was a 20a fuse on a remote fuse panel I added earlier to handle the fans, pump and the 2 large red wires which feed the OEM fuse panel and steering column. Those two were originally unfused. A different fuse this time but on the same circuit basically. I disconnected ground at the battery and pulled all of the fuses as well as the 3 molex plugs on the steering column. Then I re-connected the battery and and added one fuse at a time. Nothing. I plugged the molex plugs back in and when I connected the one to the ign switch it blew another fuse. When I pulled that harness down to look for burned wires I saw the culprit's. There were small punctures on both the large red and yellow wires.
Click to view attachment
I stuck my finger where they contacted metal and could feel a couple of small sharp points that felt like slag although I couldn't see them with a mirror. I removed the spades from the plug and slipped 3 different sizes of Marine Heat Shrink over the pictured areas to serve as thick spacer so those spikes wouldn't penetrate the wire sheathing again.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I'm guessing the reason those fuses hadn't blown before was because I'd never placed a "load" on those wires but once I did it was enough draw to arch and blow the fuse. Who knows? I'm not an electrical whiz. Anyway, that did take care of it and all systems are back to normal.
Since I was familiar with this run and expected temps I continued home where I replaced #8 fuse and everything was back to normal. The next day while returning and close to home I kicked on the lights as it was dusk. Bingo, the little Gremlin returned. Once again the gage went blank. This time it was a 20a fuse on a remote fuse panel I added earlier to handle the fans, pump and the 2 large red wires which feed the OEM fuse panel and steering column. Those two were originally unfused. A different fuse this time but on the same circuit basically. I disconnected ground at the battery and pulled all of the fuses as well as the 3 molex plugs on the steering column. Then I re-connected the battery and and added one fuse at a time. Nothing. I plugged the molex plugs back in and when I connected the one to the ign switch it blew another fuse. When I pulled that harness down to look for burned wires I saw the culprit's. There were small punctures on both the large red and yellow wires. Click to view attachment
I stuck my finger where they contacted metal and could feel a couple of small sharp points that felt like slag although I couldn't see them with a mirror. I removed the spades from the plug and slipped 3 different sizes of Marine Heat Shrink over the pictured areas to serve as thick spacer so those spikes wouldn't penetrate the wire sheathing again.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I'm guessing the reason those fuses hadn't blown before was because I'd never placed a "load" on those wires but once I did it was enough draw to arch and blow the fuse.
Who knows? I'm not an electrical whiz. Anyway, that did take care of it and all systems are back to normal.
I traded a crappy Dan Gurney spare to @euor911 for this crappy bumper. I had planned on using it for the Subaru conversion but it was just too much work to bring it back to something worthwhile so it's been in the attic until now. This V8 conversion had the large Renegade cut out in the front so I dug this out and with very little trimming it fits the build. I welded a couple of gussets in so the incoming air flows threw the radiator instead of out the sides of the bumper. You guys that have added a radiator know what I'm talking about. I need to spray some hi build primer, sand and paint it next.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I had planned on using it for the Subaru conversion but it was just too much work to bring it back to something worthwhile so it's been in the attic until now. This V8 conversion had the large Renegade cut out in the front so I dug this out and with very little trimming it fits the build. I welded a couple of gussets in so the incoming air flows threw the radiator instead of out the sides of the bumper. You guys that have added a radiator know what I'm talking about. I need to spray some hi build primer, sand and paint it next. Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(76-914 @ Dec 18 2018, 03:14 PM) 
I traded a crappy Dan Gurney spare to @euor911 for this crappy bumper.
I had planned on using it for the Subaru conversion but it was just too much work to bring it back to something worthwhile so it's been in the attic until now. This V8 conversion had the large Renegade cut out in the front so I dug this out and with very little trimming it fits the build. I welded a couple of gussets in so the incoming air flows threw the radiator instead of out the sides of the bumper. You guys that have added a radiator know what I'm talking about. I need to spray some hi build primer, sand and paint it next. Hey..Hey Kent
I thought Ben and I were the only ones modifying bumpers
Just kidding
Nice job my friend!!!
Oscar
A few months back I attached the ducktail spoiler using Tinnerman washers and some Bev headed brass screws w/ lock nits. I was good with that install until I noticed the witness marks left in the trunk seal.
Click to view attachment
This is what I used that left the impressions on the seal. Even though the nut was flush with the trunk skin.
Click to view attachment
Then I found these solid SS beveled washers and the 6mm x 1.00 Bev head screws.
Click to view attachment
I increased the inner hole diameter to allow the nut to move up against the 2nd layer of metal which is the outer skin of the hood we always see. The trick was getting the nuts to line up with the screws in this void.. I placed a very small strand of butyl tape on the top of the nut then slipped the nut over a small drill bit. This let me push the bit and nut into the void and onto the screw.The butyl kept the nut from falling into the void and also acted as locktite so no lock washer was required. In one pic you can see the butyl that squeezed out. If the screws need to be removed one day then the butyl will keep the nuts in place.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
This is what I used that left the impressions on the seal. Even though the nut was flush with the trunk skin.
Click to view attachment
Then I found these solid SS beveled washers and the 6mm x 1.00 Bev head screws.
Click to view attachment
I increased the inner hole diameter to allow the nut to move up against the 2nd layer of metal which is the outer skin of the hood we always see. The trick was getting the nuts to line up with the screws in this void.. I placed a very small strand of butyl tape on the top of the nut then slipped the nut over a small drill bit. This let me push the bit and nut into the void and onto the screw.The butyl kept the nut from falling into the void and also acted as locktite so no lock washer was required. In one pic you can see the butyl that squeezed out. If the screws need to be removed one day then the butyl will keep the nuts in place.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I pulled into the garage after a 1 hr drive and noticed my voltage was 11.3 and didn't change with RPM. Ignition off and I had 12.4 at the battery. 
Dead alternator and it has less than 900 miles on it. 
When I opened it up I found a little ball of fuzz laying against the fins of the rectifier so I probably fried a diode. I'll test them tomorrow hoping to find that one is fried. If not the internal regulator took a . It's a Delco, one wire 10SI series and the only have three cooling fins ( one long and two short) so they're prone to heat failure anyway. If it does it again I'll go with a larger series that has 7 fins.
The fuzz ball that was sucked in the rear cooling slots:
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
A pic of the rectifier showing the small set of cooling fins.
Click to view attachment
Dead alternator and it has less than 900 miles on it. When I opened it up I found a little ball of fuzz laying against the fins of the rectifier so I probably fried a diode. I'll test them tomorrow hoping to find that one is fried. If not the internal regulator took a . It's a Delco, one wire 10SI series and the only have three cooling fins ( one long and two short) so they're prone to heat failure anyway. If it does it again I'll go with a larger series that has 7 fins. The fuzz ball that was sucked in the rear cooling slots:
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
A pic of the rectifier showing the small set of cooling fins.
Click to view attachment
Didn't get much done on the car this past month. The rainy, cold Wx consumes my energy. I did finally get my fog light's to work w/o kicking on my fans so thought I'd finish up the front area.
Click to view attachment
I traded a crappy old wheel with @euro911 for a crappy front bumper a few years back. I had planned on using it for my Suby conversion but ended up shelving it. After a little tweaking it fit the car so I cut it, welded and dolled it up a bit.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
A new bumper top and Fog Light hardware (sans the black anodized screws).
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I had a 1/2 sheet of this powder coated diamond sheet so I cut out a piece and fitted it up. It was very easy to shape with multiple curves and bends. It is riveted onto the bumper and the rivets are concealed by the bumper top.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And with the black grilles in place
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I traded a crappy old wheel with @euro911 for a crappy front bumper a few years back. I had planned on using it for my Suby conversion but ended up shelving it. After a little tweaking it fit the car so I cut it, welded and dolled it up a bit.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
A new bumper top and Fog Light hardware (sans the black anodized screws).
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I had a 1/2 sheet of this powder coated diamond sheet so I cut out a piece and fitted it up. It was very easy to shape with multiple curves and bends. It is riveted onto the bumper and the rivets are concealed by the bumper top.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And with the black grilles in place
Click to view attachment
Glad to see you could put it to good use, Kent 
QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 21 2017, 07:02 AM)
QUOTE(whitetwinturbo @ Oct 21 2017, 07:22 AM)
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
..and who makes that "better" media blaster?Great work!
http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8012!r*PriceRange*%2460+-+%2499.99
I have an HF blast cabinet with 'the kind' vac unit ...
Click to view attachment
... but it's nothing compared to the $20k cabinet I had access to when I was gainfully employed at a major aerospace company
They're listing the upgrade kit at $90.00. I'm not in a hurry, should I wait for a sale?
QUOTE(euro911 @ Mar 6 2019, 12:21 PM)
QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 21 2017, 07:02 AM)
QUOTE(whitetwinturbo @ Oct 21 2017, 07:22 AM)
..and who makes that "better" media blaster?Great work!
http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8012!r*PriceRange*%2460+-+%2499.99
I have an HF blast cabinet with 'the kind' vac unit ...
Click to view attachment
... but it's nothing compared to the $20k cabinet I had access to when I was gainfully employed at a major aerospace company
They're listing the upgrade kit at $90.00. I'm not in a hurry, should I wait for a sale?
They do have a sale a couple of times a year. IIRC, an honest 10% off.
I guess I should update this thread too. Between the record low SoCal temps and torrential rains I was able to repurpose the front fairing which came off the black '73 Suby 6. Rather than Pontificate a fairly simple procedure I'll list just the pic's.Here it is still on the '73. Just a rough cutout and an aluminum flange screwed to the bottom of the cutout. A LE replica replaced it so I decided to use it here. Besides repairing a damaged screw flange it needed a scoop of sorts and to flare out the ends to meet the flares. The flange is an aluminum skeleton with 4 wraps of glass mat and then attached to the old fairing with 4 overlapping pieces.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.