Here it is mounted to the dog ear brace tube...lines ready to be crimped. Bracket is not complete as shown in the previous photos.

And do yourself a huge favor when you install these lines, use EZ Turn on the threads and surface of the sealing flare. It will prevent the whole threads staying on the thermostat, when disconnected, issues they have had over the years with this type. It also minimizes binding when the metal sealing surfaces make contact, when tightened. EZ Turn is used widely in aircraft maintenance, it is like Vaseline from hell, you can not wash it off with soap and water...it stays where you apply it. If I am worried about corrosion when I install a part, I use EZ Turn on it. Its more commonly called "Fuel Lube" among us in the aircraft maintenance world.

MB

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspa...CAaAmzVEALw_wcB

Martin, your hose is not dissimilar to the factory look / presumably metric as your using metric fitting, can I ask where did you get it from?

Great tip on the lube by the way, wish I’d known that when putting the 911 back together

You can buy that hose in bulk from Elephant Racing for $11.00 per foot. They have 3 types. They have some 30MM cohline fittings. I purchased mine with one set of ends crimped, and the other loose. I then fitted them, sent them back to be crimped. I would have bought the crimping tool myself but it's $1,600.

Another thing on the use of EZ Turn, it helps tremendously in preventing cross threading. You seem to be able to get a positive thread engagement quicker, and know for sure when you don't. To make it simple, it helps prevent show stopping damage to your fittings during engine installs etc.

MB

Hey Martin
Your installation looks great.
Can you back up a bit with the camera to show the orientation.
I love the thermo bracket, very 'aircraft' looking.
The new version of the Porsche thermostat sure is different.

I just ordered a tube. Thanks for the tip

Morning and thanks for the kind words, means more when it comes from a skilled craftsman. Have to take another couple shots this weekend. Car is on jack stands to low and I am at work now. Have to support my habits somehow...

New version of the thermostat only differs by having six sided hex castings where the slotted caps where originally. First thought I had when I saw those slots, "Well, that is never coming out" on a junk one I have here, which I found on an early 911 in a Pic N Pull in Sacramento. The car was picked clean except for the entire oil cooling system, including the trombone. Think I paid $25.00 for it. I used it for my mock up. All four threads are ruined, and the thermostat is stuck open...

I wanted the bracket to have some coolness to it, and the idea actually is copied from a Cessna 414 STC'd Air/Oil separator unit mount bracket, with the lighting holes drilled to the stiffener across the top to add the cool factor. Weight savings? I am sure its ZERO!

MB

[/quote]
I just ordered a tube. Thanks for the tip
[/quote]


Glad I can help, it will last for years. I have a can that I have had for I know 10 years.

MB

Installed permanently now. Two lines to go. Here's to making the 2019 CSRG David Love Memorial Classic at Sears Point!!

MB

Excellent.
What does your connection to the engine oil cooler look like ?

Its wretched, came that way from the previous owner. You can clearly see it came from "Home Depot" Hose clamps and copper plumbing it appears.

I just acquired an oil cooler to get modified, but I need to send it out to be cleaned and tested before the modification. I have some questions about these modifications people do to the later coolers, one being do they have the same curved tube like the original 914/6 cooler?

MB

Martin,

Is your dog ear reinforcing strut fixed in place or removable?

Its welded in. I have it both my race cars. Roger Hamlin of Hamlin Fabrication recommended the brace, to prevent "toe out" during braking. He told me the car twist around back there it will actually change the suspension geometry enough to cause un- commanded direction changes!

He has a shop at Sears Point, and is a good guy to know. Roger was a fabricator on the 1979 Red Roof Inn 935 Team. When he recommended it, little hard to say no. He's been involved with many makes/models and is a wealth of knowledge. One of those guys who doesn't need to advertise.

It has a doubler on the forward inner longitudinal, where its welded and dove tailed/welded to the dog ear. Very simple.

MB

More parts arrived today. I was able to fit one of the two lines. I'm dropping the car tomorrow at Mike Tolle's shop to have the hardline finished....really looking forward to hear this thing run again. Also for what it's worth the black and green hose comes from Parker's Transportation catalog. 22 mm or 7/8 inside diameter.

MB

Here is the hose for those who may be interested...213-16 is the correct P/N for this application. Its actually an air brake line, but has multiple uses..

MB

https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/hose/213-hose

I like that hose.. Very nice..

Thanks Ben.

This is from the Parker Catalog as well. Same dimensions, no internal steel mesh. Weighs a little less. Every ounce counts right!

P/N 293-16

MB

https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/hose/293-hose


And the 22MM Steel Braided from NEWCO.

https://newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=p...product_id=1435

Picked up the car from Mike last night, here are the final two lines, just have to get them crimped. Finding someone who will crimp these lines is nearly impossible. No one in the city of Sacramento that I've been able to find will do it. The reason being it's a Parker hose and a Cohline fitting. I'm sure liability is the issue. One guy at the Parker dealership explained to me how these two should not even be put together because no specifications exist to get a correct crimp. Hope he's wrong...

MB

Here is a shot of the whole mess hanging with lines temporarily connected...so now I will box them up and send them back to Elephant to be crimped. About a week process. While they're out I'm going to flush the oil tank just to make sure there's no junk in it and new filter and oil is waiting...

MB

The hose and fittings look beautiful.

Thanks, I appreciate that. This is no concour car. I don't want it to be, but when I dive it down into turn 11 at Sears Point I just want it to be safe and reliable...

Building the mock up of the front cooler duct. I can see these being a little different from car to car based on how high you install Ben's inlet duct. It places the cooler slightly higher than the factory. Mainly because the cooler is much larger than the factory 906 cooler.

Once the car is running again I'm going to take it back to Mike and he will build the shroud. I'm going to use clip on Nut plates to attach to the car, for access to the cooler.
Also have to weld up the holes in the front trunk where the old oil line passed through...

MB

Updating this a bit. I have been working on the car a bit again.. I have been working on solutions that will work with the PMS ot Naroscape mounts as neither of those mounts work with a stock style scavenge line. I decided to use a AN hose but something that looks retro. I may still have these made out of Cohline but for now this is where I am at.

Notice the fire sleeve was spit balling. I am going to use adel clamps so the hose will be in a safe location. Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Early 911s went up over the top of trans with a soft line...

Thats not a bad idea.. Might try that.

There is some good info here: https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/...il-lines-hoses/

Even though it's for for 911's the basic principles are there.

Thanks.. I have that all figured out.. Just trying to figure out the scavenge so it works for everyone.

On at least two cars I've converted to a 6, I used all flex line and routed the scavenge line toward the rear, then curved it forward to the T-stat/cooler/tank

Ran the line over the trans.. Much better. Made a few brackets for the porsche t-stat and made a few connections.. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Ben this is what I pm'd you about. A set up like this but with the lines running into the front wheel housing then into the trunk.

Oops yes it is. Click to view attachment

Wondering why you are doing the scavenge line like that when you already make the 914-6 style hard line the goes forward instead?

I just was not happy with the clearance around the oil return tubes and the heat exchangers. The OEM one was tight already so I have since abandoned those hard lines. I have some left that I would sell cheap if someone wants them.

The Original early 911s also went over the bell housing.

Hi Ben,

My brother will be looking to do the cooler lines soon.
Would you happen to have a kit per say ? He would need everything from the engine to front oil cooler. He already has the oil cooler/housing kit from PMS. He needs the lines now. LMK.

Thanks..

I could come up with something. Do you have the cooler?

Have the following : Factory 914-6 engine oil cooler, 914-6 3 piece rubber lines, your SS return hard line, and Setrab front oil cooler with 12AN fittings. Also have a 12AN Mocal T-stat.

PM sent on the oil rerun lines

When this is sorted Ben I would be interested for the set up as well... My last car's frunk set up looked well...kinda budget

Hey Ben,

Question about some of the oil lines if I decide to not go with a Porsche t-stat...

What I have:

-1975 2.7 engine, oem Behr cooler with a 30mm push on fitting
-Your ss hard lines to a front mounted oil cooler
-Your ss hard line from scavenge pump
-Your Aluminum 914/6 oil tank

What I plan to substitute:

-Mocal male 16-AN thermostat, wherever convenient. Likely where the Porsche thermostat would mount. The Mocal units are about half the price of what I can find the Porsche ones for nowadays.

*Edit: Just realized I highlighted the 12AN Mocal unit. I would be buying the 16AN unit...

Click to view attachment

-What I need:

-All four lines for the Mocal t-stat:
1) SS hardline - ext. oil cooler supply
2) SS hardline - ext. oil cooler return
3) t-stat to oil tank return
4) from scavenge ss hard line to t-stat

-Soft line from oil tank to engine return (push on the behr oil cooler)


I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble to go with the Mocal t-stat since going to/from the SS hard lines to the ext. oil cooler seems like a challenge...

If popped for the OEM Porsche thermostat, would it make life easier to simply order pre-bent and pre sized oil lines?

You might want to rethink the 16 AN lines. They are really big, especially for a 2.7. Even a modified one.

Hi Ben,

Any updates on this?

No not at this time. I do have the patterns but just have not gotten it done. Plus I could not find a consistent source for coolers.