The EJ20 is a far better engine than the EJ25 as far as reliability.

6mt Suby trans won't fit unless you cut a monster hole in the trunk.

A Suby 5 speed is way more economical than a Boxster 6mt (not sure you could actual use it on a suby, starter is not engine mounted)

Great food for thought! Thanks

More power, but more weight.

I think the car balance from the factory was about right. Appreciate a lightened stiff, lowered 2.0 about as much as a flared 2.4 /6.

Sound is nicer on a /6, but its all good, right?

How do you explain for the tenth time what doubling your horsepower in a 914 Porsche feels like?

I mean, come on, how do you compare an anemic rebuilt type IV with 88 HP and 66,000 miles on it to a fresh 911 2.4 built S motor with Webers and Marty's headers?

Come on? There aren't really any words.

There are these words $15k vs $5k

Probably more than $15K, actually.

Probably Definitely more than $15K, actually.

I don't think I spent.1500. But I realize it's not everyone's cup of tea either. Had a high mileage engine that still runs fine. Biggest bill was kennedy engineering flywheel and bellhousing.

My first subaru turbo conversion cost me about $4500 bucks. I'm probably going to be about $10K into my current project, but I'm building a brand new motor and doing lots of ludicrous upgrades.

Chi-town is right on the money (pun intended).

2.7 Porsche MFI motor putting out 230hp....redline about 7500.
Will have 0-60 and 1/4 mile times in the next couple of months.

That’s a great 911 air cooled motor, love the redline!

More than i could of ever imagined....

My car came built this way, but if I had to "upgrade" I would go EJ25. And I would love to see a Boxter S trans, but I am not aware of any adapter plates as of yet. I am in the process of setting up a Subie 5 speed. Have done the 4 wd to 2wd conversion, and have the MR 2 shifter and the shift linkage on the trans. I am waiting on a Clutch master cylinder adapter plate and will need to figure out the driveshafts and cables. Then it is time.....

Chappy thats scary! Impressive build off of a 3.0L, beautiful 914.....fast

Your right a upgrade to a EJ25T with a Boxster S trans would make things pretty exciting real quick!

I have a 914 Subie 2.5 turbo conversion and a stock first year (2002) WRX STI 2.0, if not for smog regs. I would switch them in a second. The 240 hp in the 3000+ lb. all wheel drive Subie is nice, a bit peaky, just need to plan ahead. The appox. 300 hp in the 2000ish lb. with 901 trans. (who needs 1st. gear anyway) 914 is a handful if you press on the gas pedal too suddenly. I dream of a smoother gentler 240 hp in the 914 and a quicker WRX. It's only a dream it would never pass smog.

Great comparison on the 2.5 914 and the 2.0 WRX STI. I think 200-250hp mark on the 914 is about right! Thanks

Sounds like a bit much for narrow body
Over 175 horse . should be flared ...5lug... Sc suspension
Big tires/brakes ...etc

That's an awfully specific number - what do you base that on?

I think it is based off of this write up..

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728

What’s great about the 914 get togethers,is you get to see all the different ways of building the “perfect” 914. There’s no one best way.

I'll be on a very sticky 215 tire under my narrow body with 260hp

Based off of ... Stock brakes will no longer be up to the task with that much power

Brakes don’t deal with power, they relate to mass x velocity. At 75 mph in a 2000lb car, there is no difference stopping a 100hp car or a 500hp car.

Brakes relate to power in the sense that more power makes it a lot easier to do all that stupid stuff that one needs good brakes for ...

Put down the engineering degree or dust it off
(Mass x velocity)

Common sense ...bigger engine /more power/more weight is usually going to require more stopping power.

ill second that

If you want your car to stop faster, an intuitive start may be to upgrade your brakes. While it may sound logical, for everyday driving it will probably have no effect on your actual stopping distance. Brakes are the system responsible for turning the kinetic energy of your moving car into heat (science talk for slowing it down), however the car’s tires are ultimately responsible for how quickly this occurs.

Like I always say brakes stop the wheels but tires stop the car...........

a big part of adding weight is adding larger wheels and tires. Unsprung weight spinning with a larger contact patch. Think about the wheel as a lever
The longer lever and the larger the crank handle the more clamping force is required to counter the weight and force.

This is whether you have 100 go or 450 go.

HP only matters if you package increases force of the lever through weight and leverage.

true

I have owned a small block 355 iron block aluminum heads 914 a small block all aluminum piece of sh World motors 914, a v6 Honda 240hp 240tq J35a 914, and now following in Andrews footsteps and building a turbo exotic 914 300 to the wheels is my quest for the sweet spot of this chassis. But with all that said pound for pound bang for the buck nothing beats the LS. My cousin owned a machine shop and said the subi engine was a very good engine, but he also said the LS was one of GMs best. If I was trying to go for it again, LS3 with Boxster S gearbox. Game over.

Finally a LS lover surfaces! Mean machine...thanks

First swap was a 3.2 with 901 in 1991. (pre-internet, and very little help other than Panorama UpFixin articles, but only workshop manuals on both the 3.2 and the 914) This was a track only car. Had a Kennedy Engineering clutch and European Racing Headers. This was a track only car. 87 engine only was about 5k in 1991. Used a round (Patterson Enterprises) oil tank mounted up front.

Second swap was a stock 2.0 instead of a stock 1.8. I should have put the FI from the 1.8 on the 2.0.

Third swap was a 915 box into the track car (3.2) in approximately 1998.

Fourth swap was a 3.2 with 901 in 2005? Street car, but mostly copied and improved what I had done in 1991. Oil tank up front. 1984 3.2 with a 915 gearbox and other bits was $7500 in 2005.

Fifth swap (in progress) is a CIS 2.7 with a 901 into what was once a 2.0 body. Engine was on hand and trans was on hand. Need to still buy exhaust and clutch. I have most of the other bits from hoarding over the years.

Each one was well worth the money. I like making mine look as factory as possible, so I take care with my wiring and keep it neat and orderly so I can work on them in the future.

With engine prices where they are at, I may be nearing the end of my 914 journey. I have my current project and one other a 3.3 turbo into a race shell. Have the engine and multiple 915 boxes.....

I always loved the looks of the stock 914. So i only slightly flared the fenders in the baseball bat tradition. The 3.2 never ceases to make me smile. Of course that also meant the 5 lug suspension, bigger master cylinder and alu S brakes. I can run 205/55 on 16 inch wheels and still be narrow body. But then I don’t drive very fast either.

I’ve always felt like upgrading to a Aircooled 3.2 would be the perfect combination. Hopefully somewhere down the road that will happen! Enjoy

That’s what I’m talkin about, my revvy 2.7 will be narrow fender with ~225hp.
Unless I go custom wheel offsets (nope) 205 is all that’ll fit under mine, at least out back.

Thanks again for all the post, great information for the many 914 Owners who is possibly having problems deciding what conversions they would like to have if they want more power, etc.

............there are a few SBC meth-heads out there Click to view attachment

Even though I saw this yesterday, let me just say again WOW @conedodger

Thank you...