It might sound like fuel starvation. I didn't know about fuel sock in the tank-will look into it. All hoses from the 2 plastics hoses in the engine bay are new. Fuel in tank is below E but light is not on so I don't know if that's an issue.
The choke condition is more prevalent with hot engine. If engine is cold, I think it runs better till hot. I'll test again later when engine cold again to see if I can duplicate .
Yes, the plugs were soaked couple weeks ago when it happened and it would not restart until we clean out the plug. However,the car restart right away all the time today after driving ,idling for 1-2 hrs so I don't think the plugs are soaked this time, otherwise it would not restart right away. Thanks.
It might sound like electrical as it will run fine after restart. Points are new as there was a new spare in the car that I installed. I don't think timing or ignition as it would affect same condtion consistently, not weird like this. Could bad DME / ECU affect above 3k rpm?
Enjoying the sun while troubleshooting the car.
Full Version: Newly acquired 70 914 stock.
Ding, ding, ding, ding! BeatNavy is the winner!
Finally got break in weather to checkout the fuel delivery. Filter was clog, gas was brown so I blew compressed air back into the tank for bubbles to stir the gas, loosen stuff in the tank then let drain out 1/2 gal until it looks clear then button up. Drive up to 4500 rpm no problem, ran like bat out of hell. Stoke !
Next is adjust parking brake, check defroster blower not on, and heater fan can't turn off. Thanks.
Finally got break in weather to checkout the fuel delivery. Filter was clog, gas was brown so I blew compressed air back into the tank for bubbles to stir the gas, loosen stuff in the tank then let drain out 1/2 gal until it looks clear then button up. Drive up to 4500 rpm no problem, ran like bat out of hell. Stoke !
Next is adjust parking brake, check defroster blower not on, and heater fan can't turn off. Thanks.
Excellent! 
Depending on your plans, I'd clean out the whole fuel system (tank, sock filter, lines, and maybe send injectors out for service).
Enjoy!
Depending on your plans, I'd clean out the whole fuel system (tank, sock filter, lines, and maybe send injectors out for service).
Enjoy!
Got parking brake cable adjusted.
The blower initially turn on/off first week after I bought the car. Couple weeks later the blower run continously regardless on/off so I cut the green wire at the blower. It still ran yesterday when I taped the wires back then remove tape. Getting to fix the red lever today and I can hear relay click on/of but fan doesn't run. Check continuity for pin 86 back to lever switch, brown wire on blower to ground, but I can't trace green wire from blower back to.......... I don't see a fuse and can't find ETM to see where this green wire goes.
Any idea? Thanks.
The blower initially turn on/off first week after I bought the car. Couple weeks later the blower run continously regardless on/off so I cut the green wire at the blower. It still ran yesterday when I taped the wires back then remove tape. Getting to fix the red lever today and I can hear relay click on/of but fan doesn't run. Check continuity for pin 86 back to lever switch, brown wire on blower to ground, but I can't trace green wire from blower back to.......... I don't see a fuse and can't find ETM to see where this green wire goes.
Any idea? Thanks.
Still stump about previously running fan all the time and not running now- I cut the connection at the fan as I was working on other issues until I get to it now.
Here's what I confirmed today for the no blower sympton. Went through these 2 sequences with answers in CAP below referenced from this thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/lofiversion/i...hp?t247768.html
1. Did you CLEAN the ground connection at the lever? That's worth doing so you know you do have a good ground (if you did not when you were in there).YES, SAND AND DE-OXIT.
2. With ignition on and heater lever in the up position (all the way), use a voltmeter or test light and see if you have power at the green lead on the blower motor (ground the test light/voltmeter to the battery negative post).NO 12V. If you do, then I believe the ground lever, the relay board, the relay, and the other connections are good. RELAY GOOD, LEVER GOOD. Check the actual blower motor ground brown wire to its grounding point (I'm not sure if mine is stock or not -- it's been grounded to a dedicated ground point off the block -- it's effective, but it doesn't look original to me). CONTINUITY FROM FAN TO BATTERY.
3. Most likely, you do not. So your issue is probably somewhere in one of the connections on the relay board or back at the heater lever. Without the ignition on, test continuity from relay pin (the hole) 87 to connector pin 11 on the 14 pin connector at the front of the relay board-NO CONTINUITY. (if I'm reading the diagram correctly). If you have any doubts about the continuity clean the connection points at the relay, at the 14 pin connector, AND at the 12 pin connector on the rear right side of the board - pins 11 and 10 are the operative ones here I think. CLEAN AND DE-OXIT.
4. Are you actually getting a good ground to the relay? With ignition on and the heater lever in the up position, do you have 12v at pin 87 of the relay?YES, RELAY CLICKING. If not, the issue is on the relay board to the 14 pin connector or from there to the grounding point at the lever.
-----------
1. Bad ground at lever or broken wire (the green/white one) to the relay board. NO, CHECKED CONTINUITY, RELAY CLICK WHEN MOVE RED LEVER OR PLUG IN RELAY.
2. Bad/dirty connections on the relay board (at the 14 pin connector or the 12 pin connector). NO, CLEAN AND DE-OXIT.
3. Broken fuse or bad fuse connection (as Spoke pointed out) on the relay board. NO, CHECKED CONTINUITY AND POWER.
4. Bad relay 55 or bad relay connections (e.g., pins 30, 86, 87 etc.).NO, SWAPPED RELAY, CHECKED CONTINUITY.
5. Bad relay board (traces bad) HOW?
6. Broken or bad green wire from relay board to fan. CONTINUITY TO PIN 85 ON RELAY BOARD. GREEN WIRE 3 PLUG CONTINUITY TO FAN GREEN WIRE .
DID I MISS SOMETHING? TIA.
Here's what I confirmed today for the no blower sympton. Went through these 2 sequences with answers in CAP below referenced from this thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/lofiversion/i...hp?t247768.html
1. Did you CLEAN the ground connection at the lever? That's worth doing so you know you do have a good ground (if you did not when you were in there).YES, SAND AND DE-OXIT.
2. With ignition on and heater lever in the up position (all the way), use a voltmeter or test light and see if you have power at the green lead on the blower motor (ground the test light/voltmeter to the battery negative post).NO 12V. If you do, then I believe the ground lever, the relay board, the relay, and the other connections are good. RELAY GOOD, LEVER GOOD. Check the actual blower motor ground brown wire to its grounding point (I'm not sure if mine is stock or not -- it's been grounded to a dedicated ground point off the block -- it's effective, but it doesn't look original to me). CONTINUITY FROM FAN TO BATTERY.
3. Most likely, you do not. So your issue is probably somewhere in one of the connections on the relay board or back at the heater lever. Without the ignition on, test continuity from relay pin (the hole) 87 to connector pin 11 on the 14 pin connector at the front of the relay board-NO CONTINUITY. (if I'm reading the diagram correctly). If you have any doubts about the continuity clean the connection points at the relay, at the 14 pin connector, AND at the 12 pin connector on the rear right side of the board - pins 11 and 10 are the operative ones here I think. CLEAN AND DE-OXIT.
4. Are you actually getting a good ground to the relay? With ignition on and the heater lever in the up position, do you have 12v at pin 87 of the relay?YES, RELAY CLICKING. If not, the issue is on the relay board to the 14 pin connector or from there to the grounding point at the lever.
-----------
1. Bad ground at lever or broken wire (the green/white one) to the relay board. NO, CHECKED CONTINUITY, RELAY CLICK WHEN MOVE RED LEVER OR PLUG IN RELAY.
2. Bad/dirty connections on the relay board (at the 14 pin connector or the 12 pin connector). NO, CLEAN AND DE-OXIT.
3. Broken fuse or bad fuse connection (as Spoke pointed out) on the relay board. NO, CHECKED CONTINUITY AND POWER.
4. Bad relay 55 or bad relay connections (e.g., pins 30, 86, 87 etc.).NO, SWAPPED RELAY, CHECKED CONTINUITY.
5. Bad relay board (traces bad) HOW?
6. Broken or bad green wire from relay board to fan. CONTINUITY TO PIN 85 ON RELAY BOARD. GREEN WIRE 3 PLUG CONTINUITY TO FAN GREEN WIRE .
DID I MISS SOMETHING? TIA.
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