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9146C
After completing more than 90% of my rustoration projects on the chassis, I am about to start the installation of the GT (metal) flares (AA purchase).

A question for those who have already done this...any tips/tricks/watch-outs or any advice on what you would have done differently?

Thanks in advance!
mepstein
I would ask Ben how he did his. He is a welding instructor so might be able to give you a quick tutorial. There are some tricks of the trade and getting the bottom corners correct takes a bit of finesse.
@MB911
roblav1
Welding shrinks everthing, butt weld is the only way to go, placement matters s lot, and get those Harbor Freight butt welding clamps. Weld small sections at a time. The more difficukt part for me was blending the transisions. The lower corners need some additional effort.
Fat finger spelling on this phone!
9146C
Thanks for that feedback!

Somewhere I read that starting by tacking on the bottom (both ends) then slowly cutting/tacking in sections up to the middle.

Right now, that's the plan...unless I hear something more interesting.

Open to more feedback/opinions!
Root_Werks
I've done a few sets, some have turned out better than others. Here's an old thread of the last set I installed which turned out really good:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=89850&st=0

Your idea of starting at the ends (bottoms) and working toward the center is what we did. We'd cut a little, weld a little, cut, weld etc.

One thing to watch for (among other things) is getting those lower corners tacked in correctly with the entire flare tight against the fender. Otherwise you wind up with a bubble or incorrect fit at the top. By the time I did this set, I had learned that lesson the hard way.
9146C
QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Apr 23 2020, 11:52 AM) *

I've done a few sets, some have turned out better than others. Here's an old thread of the last set I installed which turned out really good:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=89850&st=0

Your idea of starting at the ends (bottoms) and working toward the center is what we did. We'd cut a little, weld a little, cut, weld etc.

The only thing to watch for (among other things) is getting those lower corners tacked in correctly with the entire flare tight against the fender. Otherwise you wind up with a bubble or incorrect fit at the top.


Thank you for that link!!!

You describe what I seem to have read somewhere else...much appreciated!
Cairo94507
That is the very fun stuff as you get the flares on the chassis. They make such a huge change to the car. beerchug.gif
tygaboy
I'm no expert but I posted in a bit of detail about how I addressed the corners and match up. Starts on this page of my build, post #2169:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...900&st=2160

Hope this helps.
9146C
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 23 2020, 12:17 PM) *

I'm no expert but I posted in a bit of detail about how I addressed the corners and match up. Starts on this page of my build, post #2169:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...900&st=2160

Hope this helps.


Thank you for the link! I recall reading this post a few months back...beautiful build btw!
9146C
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Apr 23 2020, 12:15 PM) *

That is the very fun stuff as you get the flares on the chassis. They make such a huge change to the car. beerchug.gif


LOL...when I started my "project", I wasn't initially expecting much more than adding the flares! Several panels/patches (and replacing the passenger longitudinal) later, I'm finally at the point of adding the GT flares!
914forme
Ben would be a good source, I will tell you this.

When I do these, or any patch work, I overlap, cleo them in place, then once I like the fit, I start to cut the back metal out. I do this by taking a narrow cut off blade and going into the over lap at an angle, 45 degrees. This allows the top metal to lay on top of the rear metal.

I would do the initial tacks with MIG, and the do the rest in TIG. I can get the gap almost small enough that I can fusion weld the joint. No filler needed over a lot of the process.

I do a spot at a time, and then once it cools I hammer these, an then add the next dot, and proceed. Takes a long time, with 1000s of small welds, but it comes out very nice.

You can do the same thing with a MIG, I would use the softest filler and narrowest filler I could use. I could never get silicone-bronze feed well in my MIG, but love the softness for hammer welding. Since it is a fender flare, it is not a structural item like a suspension mount, softer wire will be your friend.

@MB911 you go with your answer, and prove me wrong, as I am a hack compared to Ben.
Garland
From 2012 when a bunch of us got flares, the first link has a large list of project links.

QUOTE(Garland @ Oct 1 2017, 07:19 AM) *

Hears a great post I used for referance when installing mine. Lots of links.


Great post on install links

Heres mine, i reshaped the bottom of each flare, after alining the top center to the car.
(if i did it again the only thing I would change, frt's 1/2" more foward) Running 9x16 on all 4 corners. Messure 10 times, and cut 1 time. I fit and welded mine before I had the wheels and tires. I focused strongly on the size of the tire space being equal, and distance from the hubs, using all of the flare, not just the outer look. Welded all 4 on.

Then I got the wheel and tire size to fill the rear space. buying the rear set first, using them to check turning clearance on the front. The 9" fit! Got 2 more.

Some say fit the flare to the wheel and tire. Using the tire as the guide, this will work also as a starting point. If you know the wheel and tire size you want to use. That was my biggest question.

Michigan Build


On paint:

Great paint guy on you tube "The Gunman" (australian) i learned a lot watching him before I painted.
mb911
I have done 5 cars worth of flares over the years.. My experience is butt joint with a chill plate behind the weld is best.. MIG or TIG does not really our way each other.. I MIG tack the flares up.. I use the factory dimensions and to be honest the Auto Atlanta flares I used only fit one way. I clamp a piece of plywood to the bottom lip of the arch of the stock fender and set the flare on it. Notch the bottom so you can slide the flare in tight and then tack the flare over the stock fender. Then take a cut off wheel right at the seam so that you cut the stock fender out and it will fall to the inside of the wheel well..

If you look at my build thread you will see that I MIG welded 3 of the four flares on (my 12 year old son did) then I TIG welded the last flare on.. The only advantage of TIG that I found was that you had fewer potential pin holes to deal with.
IronHillRestorations
I did my 2nd set in '06 a set about 5 years after that, and I'm about to do a set now. Here's my write up in Jan '07 PK's flair install All my installs have been with a MIG.

I think hammer welding may be the best process, but I don't know anyone who can do that, after that TIG, and then MIG. With hammer welding you take care of shrinkage with every weld, but it's totally technique oriented, and requires a pretty high skill level. Properly done hammer welds don't require much grinding, if any, and the gas fusion welds have the highest tensile strength and are more malleable, so any post welding panel beating is far less likely to crack a weld vrs MIG.

The problem I have with TIG is I don't do it enough and it too very heavily reliant on technique, which only comes with practice. I spent a half a day working on butt welding TIG, but I wasn't happy with my welds, I was using a .045 MIG wire as filler rod, but need a lot (a LOT) more practice before I'd touch a car.

I'm going back to what I know best and have the most experience, which is MIG.
IronHillRestorations
QUOTE(mb911 @ Apr 23 2020, 11:32 AM) *
I clamp a piece of plywood to the bottom lip of the arch of the stock fender and set the flare on it. Notch the bottom so you can slide the flare in tight and then tack the flare over the stock fender. Then take a cut off wheel right at the seam so that you cut the stock fender out and it will fall to the inside of the wheel well.


Got any pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you did Ben

The flairs I'm using are fairly old factory ones, and I can tell you they are rough. The fronts are quite different, side to side
mb911
I don't but George turned me onto that 4 or 5 years ago.. Its just clamped to the fender lip..
mb911
This is the best I can simulate for you.. Imagine this is clamp to original fender lip.. Click to view attachment
IronHillRestorations
That helps, and makes sense. That way you have the same fender lip height
9146C
I really do appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions!

Thank you very much!
Coondog
Click to view attachment

Every 914 should have GT flares...... driving.gif .
Garland
All the links in the below post work. Especially like the metal surgeon.


QUOTE(bulitt @ Jan 10 2012, 09:50 AM) *

For those about to put on your Flares, here is alot of reading- Im sure I missed many threads so feel free to add on. Some threads need to be read through to catch flare related content, and sign in to see all the pics on the world and club.

How to Install Steel Flares (also has info on bottom edge)

Painting, Sanding

Wes V Flare Diary

Questions, Links

Series 9 Installation

Adhesive or weld

Patch Panel Steel

Armandos

Scotty B on Sealing welds

Steel Flare vs bottom of body

Phoenix Hobbies

Another Install

Easy Grind Mig Wire

Ron S- Wide Flares

Area 51 Werks- wide flares

Flaring Rockers

Pbase Flares

Metal Surgeon Flares

Fitting Rockers

Pulled Fenders

Bolt-on flares

How to Install Fiberglass Flares
914forme
Yes Metal Surgeon's work is drooley.gif
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