Hi guys,

The hits keep on coming with this bumblebee engine. Seems the "builder" slathered the sealing surfaces of the case with black (or maybe gray) RTV and I can't figure out how to break its grip. All the bolts are out (yes, the hidden one too), but the sides won't budge. Even with a spreader under tension for a few hours.

I only wish I didn't have to get this case decked...I'm sure it wouldn't leak

Any ideas / tips / tricks?

By spreader do you mean the little spit tool that mounts in the Oil pump opening?

Often it is a nut or screw you have missed. Be certain you have them all before using force

No...just a hand/squeeze clamp/spreader. Not a lot of force, either. Just a consistent push to hopefully pull the RTV apart.

I double checked all the bolts against @mcmark ‘s diagram

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=50873

and all 20 plus the big ones are out. Looks like the RTV is acting like glue. Oy.

As always, if you're sure you have all case fasteners removed, a little heat is your friend.

You may have some galvanic corrosion around a stud or two. Penetrating fluid 1st.

Then I'd pick the side of the case with more holes than studs and then only heat only that one side to enourage a little thermal espansion of the holes on that side and softening of the RTV as the heat attempts to cross though the RTV on its way to the cold side case 1/2.

We need an emoji without the helmet. Just a big flame from the fire wrench!

Google says to try soaking cured silicone:

Vinegar, iso alcohol, Goo Gone, lacquer thinner, acetone.

Thanks guys. Any downside to soaking the case in those? Discoloration? Weakening?

Vinegar is acidic so there might be an undesirable reaction tot it, but the others shouldn't cause issues. Just be careful. You're going to end up with a lot of flammable liquid and fumes from the others.

@cuddy_k
' date='May 15 2020, 06:48 PM' post='2815652']
Hi guys,

The hits keep on coming with this bumblebee engine. Seems the "builder" slathered the sealing surfaces of the case with black (or maybe gray) RTV and I can't figure out how to break its grip. All the bolts are out (yes, the hidden one too), but the sides won't budge. Even with a spreader under tension for a few hours.

I only wish I didn't have to get this case decked...I'm sure it wouldn't leak

Any ideas / tips / tricks?
[/quote]

Get one of the oil pump spreaders. In addition to that i have used a scissors jack between the lower case to trans studs.

Just helped a shop get a 911 apart...they had left pressure with a splitter, no go,,,
some all torch heat and it popped.. It didnt leak, but sure needed a rebuild..

I have used air pressure to remove chill plates from inverters. I don't know how you could seal a case well enough to do that though.

Maybe something like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Calculated-Indu..._-206697086-_-N

Yep. MAP torch. Get it hot.

Thanks guys. Will hit this from all fronts. The oil pump spreader (which looks like a fun tool btw) will be here next week. I'll report back...

Also make sure all the wavy washers have been removed, they hang up on the threads.

I can't wait to see what went on inside. I'll stay tuned for the next hit.

Forrest hammered and hammered on his 3.0 aluminum case before he found that last hidden bolt inside on the transmission side.

Got it!

Ended up using Jake Raby's method from his DVD of just a little leverage between the fan hub and front seal. No direct prybar contact with the case.

It cracked open enough for me to shoot WD40 in there and gently drive some wood wedges in to keep it apart. A little finessing and it came apart. Well, once I removed the bale for the oil tower, which got hung up. doh!

Pics coming...

Diesel stinks but it softens up RTV enough that it comes off somewhat easy with a brass wire brush.