That's really clean. Super impressive. I need to do better cable management on my engine.

Zach

Thanks. I think the vast majority of my brain power for the whole project was working through the harness/wiring design and actually sitting down at the engine stand and wiring it up. It was one of those "Zen things" where I sat with beer and Pandora and just worked on it a bit at a time. All the design details are in Part 9 (10?) of the write-up I did. I even drew it up on cardboard so I can replicate it relatively easily if I had to make another (which I may consider doing for the race car).

https://tgadrivel.blogspot.com/2020/03/on-m...914-part-1.html

One design priority was to have quick connects and the ability to easily remove it. I did exactly that tonight to change the coil ground to 12AWG and it took me less than a minute to have it sitting on my work bench.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

on all topics

Hi Greg, would be fine with me. But I also think it's a temperature related issue. But after I checked the other post with the underfloor temp meassurements, which is great, I think there is a problem with the engine tune. I'm running much cooler oil and head temps without an additional oil cooler (2056).
But let's discuss this at a different place as it would be misleading here since Rob is running a lager displacement engine which requires additional oil cooling.

Very interesting re: the temp. under the back of the car. 120-140 degrees is not as hot as I would have expected. Can't argue with data. The second challenge with the cooler back there is limited air flow.

Cooling test under car with and w/out fans, Installed (2) 4" fans under trunk each side of transmission. Oil cooler was not installed for test, oil temp was 220 out side temp 90. Rough numbers fans removed 11 deg under car and no affect on oil temp.
Don't look at oil pressure numbers turned off car to take pictures.
Next test will be with oil cooler installed?? Is 220 oil temp acceptable?
2056 engine with duel 40 carbs
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

220* is a good oil temperature

Just a quick follow up: I think you're spot-on. Last week I move the coil to on top of the cooling fan (basically tye-wrapped it there) and drove it an hour with zero stumbles. Top of the coil was 94F, area on the block where it was mounted was 185F.

I need to work on a relocate bracket.

I'm also going to gold-reflect the bottom of the plenum and air filter box. Thoughts on any good phenolic washers/isolators where the plenum bolts to the case?

And, next time I've got the engine tin off I'm likely to gold-reflect its underside as well.

We've been living with a ton of excess heat on the top these engines and were never really worried about it.

Just a follow up on this thread. Did about 600 miles this past weekend up to the NE gathering in PA. I sprung no major oil leaks. That is a good thing. I still have some oil drips to deal with, including (I think) on the front main and probably gear oil at the gear selector (need new gasket for that, I think). So while I left my mark everywhere I didn't take an absolute dump anywhere.

Oil temps were really good all weekend (e.g. 210 to 220+) as long as the car was moving fast enough to displace that hot air underneath. This generally meant 55 mph and above. The Saturday joy ride with the group was a bit more difficult, as we were routinely below 50 mph and also stopped a number of times to gather up lost sheep. As soon as you stop the fan really can't do much to pull cool air in and cool the oil, particularly when ambient temps are 90 degrees.

For now I think I'm good, although I'm going to look into ways to bring cooler air to and through the cooler.