I need to mount my Hifire Cd box and find my wire harness for unilite distributor . CD box goes where the ECU mount on battery try. pics to follow soon

To press the dog tooth gear on to the first gear, I placed the gear in the freezer and heated the dog gear to about 400 with a heat gun...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5FpdBIMmJY


Since I am adding dog gear from a fifth gear stack (no wear) it will have2 brake bands (up shift/downshift) so I needed a few bits to complete. ( Big thanks to Doc Evil) see pic up in thread for 1 band vs 2 bands ( first Vs 2-5)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZVd2ldRjmk

I replace the shaft seal and O-ring for the shift console on my side shifter...pretty straight forward so no pics or videos.

While I'm in there....

Best

-Robert

The transmission is back together and feels good to get it back on the engine. Add starter and filled with oil. Pulled plug to crank engine over to build oil pressure. Even with the plugs out, I am still cranking slow. Jumper cables only. I installed the positive cable on the starter and things are better but still too slow. Looking at a Hi Toque starter next.
Its as slow as the the stock engine. So no surprises here. So I did a quick compression test (COLD)NEW) and 125psi across the board and 40 PSI oil pressure.

Exhaust was swapped over from the 2.0 and installed.

NEXT: FUEL pump and Ignition system for initial start up


...getting CLOSE to VROOOM



-RobertClick to view attachment

Hooking up the electrical is EZ with a Diagram
MALORY Unilite plugs into the HyFires harness
and about 5 other connection to power ground and ignition and the coil (+/-)

Click to view attachment

Crank and prime again to get the oil flowing with out plugs .ITs craning better with the ground cable to the block/battery. Put the pugs in and can count the compression strokes wheel cranking..but pretty good (Better with ground cable)
HOWEVER...
The mail delivered the HITORQUE IMI starter today...so 15 min swap and crank with pugs in good and small gell battery put in last year!

Missed the timing by one plug wire...or it was it this way last time it ran?

Initial start did not fire but was popping and trying ...loosened the distributer and turned it and VROOM..Its alive...Continued with break in of cam. rings, etc @ 2500 to 3500 rpm
Synced carbs at 3k..and timing was @ 18 degrees and can not turn distributor any further. Will fix this on shut down.. Reclock the plug wires took care of this and now at 28 @ 3000
Smooth idea at 1k and good throttle response .

Next will be AFR with wide band O2 and idea mixtures.. So far the base setting look pretty good



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt5SA1__eoE





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2yuMjpIxmM

Very cool. Sounds good. Can't wait to see it back in the car!

Sounds good, on the road soon, and thanks for the updates and videos, been very helpful

Pulled a plug to check the idle jet is not too rich. Running at 3/4 turn

Pulled a plug to check the idle jet is not too rich. Running at 3/4 turn

Cleaned the heat shield for the muffler pad I won at Octeenerfest door prize...
Click to view attachment

pad installedClick to view attachment

Thermostat removed for header tube

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relocated thermostat

Click to view attachment

Pulled the tins this week end and Re-Torqued the head bolds and set the valve lash. all nuts took about 1/32 of a turn from the last noted position

Cheap insurance. How is she running? have you been on the roads

@930cabman

On track for a FIRST drive this holiday week end! Good idle and seem to be responsive to throttle during break in. Smoooth running even before the tuning

I got a set of motor mounts off an another engine bar and EZ enough to get them swapped before the install

Have to wrap a header tube by the speedo and clutch cable

Have to replace the clutch cable( has a fray starting )

Oil change before road test ....Waiting on Filters

Swap Fuel pump for carbs

Did I miss anything?

I am sure I did...but nothing that should set me back from my drive this week end

and tuning with the Wide band (new to me)

SO GLAD I GOT THE THERMOSTAT SORTED

Tonight did the final zero valve lash. and was balancing the Webers 44 at higher RPM.
To my surprise the engine was breaking up and not making any power.

Was my Main Jets too small?

I am a little embarrassed to say, the engine spins up very quickly and was bouncing off the rev limiter in the Hyfire VI AL

Good to know it was set much lower for the stock 2.0 engine and working as it should

Now its set from my new higher redline and well below valve float

OOOPS, been some time since I played with the settings.. EZ rotary dip switches in a side access panel

NOT too friendly of a place to get to when mounted in the STOCK ECU position by the battery

Glad I have it set and ready to go...for this week ends drive

Congratulations, Robert. Well done. I hope it's satisfying and you enjoy it for many miles, even as you continue to fine tune

@BeatNavy

Its the support that we get here from the 'World" that helps keep us going when things do not go as we expect. Like plug idle jets, just after setting the valve lash. WTF, it was just running fine and now 2 dead cylinders.

As ya'll noticed, I post my failures here too. I learn from them more that some of the successes.

The Wide band O2 tuning will be all new for me on the Weber 44 IDF, but not too far off from from of late model Tune port and feed back carbs/ ECUs of the 80-90 cars
Keep tuned if you like this kind of stuff

I did find a Dyno tune shop only 30 mins from my house. $100.00 and hour or $400.00 an 8 hour day
I bet I can gets some base line pulls and set the best timing in an hour time

Yes, thank you for posting and letting us comment. I am considering a similar build with Weber 44's.

Mr. Gatornapper claims his engine with 44's rocks

@930cabman
I hear its all about tuning out the flat spot on transition from idle circuit > to mains

My 2.0 L had 44 IDF when I got it and the top pull was amazing but the transition was not so much. So, I traded out the 44 for 40 idfs with 32 vents that everyone recommends. The drivability was better but I always missed the strong pull and push into the seat that I had from the 44.

Im better at tuning now so here we go again...


Best Regards and thanks for the feed back


-Robert

New Hi-torque starter is a little close to the Trunk /floor pan.

Click to view attachment

Little reclocking of the starter and a slight push up on the floor pan and Im good to go...

Malory HiFIre VI AL CD /rev limiter is installed where the ECU used to reside.

Click to view attachment

Did I mention how much I HATE the glue on the fire wall!

Today I added a different ground strap. The old one I think did not flow enough current for the starter and high load accessories.

I have the bottom the the engine buttoned up and routed the NEW clutch cable with the speed in a heat wrap. Over the headers and out of the way of the wrapped pipes. NO low hanging cables, wires or such...she will get a good power washing once out of the garage.

Click to view attachment

Tomorrow will be the fuel pump up front and some fuel lines to the carbs and the last of the electrical connections for the HI Fire Mallory CD...

ITs on all fours and NO JACK STANDS.

time for a

Thank you to all that check in and participated in the comments during the build..

Here is a video of the test drive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUeKvJrBFgo


More tuning and clean up coming soon. As you know these things NEVER END

I must say this combo seem to perform very well and not too much for the street driven driven car

What happened? I had Ben here on Tuesday and he too drove the car for a short spin and it was driving out fine...Like the video. I put about 20 mile on her and is now about 100 miles total and did a fresh oil change just before.

2 problems under investigation

1) Heavy spark knock from time to time after spirited driving. Happens on over geared low RPM on tip in of throttle . not so much on down shift. Maybe lean carb or sticking weights in Malory ?

2) Heard what sounded like a dry bearing howl on idle that started to pull the engine down to a stall. put a few revs to here and noise went away This happened 2 times


...but every things seems to be pretty good till THIS:

Pulled the distributor on Thursday night to see it its sticking.. Pulled it apart and weights was just a little sticky but springs back k OK.. cleaned and lubed and reduced the mechanical advance to about 18*... SO 10 initial + 18 mechanical =28.. I was about 30 before. Maybe this will help. Installed and set up...but will not start. I tried lots of things but only popping.. IT tuns out I must have clock the advance plate 180* off?

YEP went out today at lunch and flipped the plate and installed. Started right up
set initial timing to 10* seem to be running OK...Went to check the timing at 3k

I increased the engine speed to 3k and started to set timing light to 28. Before I could find the mark, the engines startle clanging and clacking like somethings was loose in the valve train. Then that howl can back and pulled the engine to a stall .Restarted and engine had a miss fire turned out to be #3 and oil leak under car.. been dry to this point and now puddles

I pulled the valve cover and confirmed that the #3 intake valve was not moving and was stuck open. and pushrod was bent

Pulled Engine
Pulled head
Valve smacked the piston and bent intake valve. WTF! 3k is not floating the valves with double springs and rev limiter @ 6500. Never hit rev limiter at 6500

WELL in in this far, its getting bulled down to see if a spun bearing or something is causing the Howl.
I pulled the other head and Guess WHAt? Same thing. #1 intake kissed the head, looks like one time and bent the push rod and broke a pieces of the head by the push rod tube(it was bent)off the rocker

I noticed oil in the cylinder 1 with brass of bronze flakes and in the combustion chamber. This is odd as I just changed the oil and no metallic seen only the moly beack in lube( pretty good investigation for 4 hrs)



Click to view attachment

another pic

intake valve

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push rod (bent)

Click to view attachment

The other head is not a s bad but the same thing happened (same Lobe?)


here is the Brass/bronze oil slurry?

I will know more as I inspect the lower end in the AM

IS it possible the Howling dry bearing noise is the valve guide? possible too tight? Causing a tight valve not to close and hitting the piston as it comes up and is hanging open OR bending the the push rod as it tries to open the valve ? It did stall the engine


Lower end spins freely with the heads remove. One hand on the Fly wheel. IT will almost free wheels but it does have ring drag


What Do YA'll think is going on here? All theories welcome .o38 deck and 465 lift. I did check Piston to valve clearance and multiple valve lifts and recall it being good


IT will get fixed, but do not want a repeat performance

Did you check for valve to piston clearance during the build ?
flat top pistons may not have sufficient valve relief
My pistons had fly cut relief.
I'm using WEB 494 cam with 0.465 valve lift. no problem

Case is split and checking bearings for dry bearing noise!

Checked the end play of the crank . This will confirm thrust bearing condition is ok

Click to view attachment

Bearing looked good too see video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHNoAnZ8rxE


Oil pump is out and cover had a little wear on the cover by the drive gear shaft. Sharp edge will get dressed down

here is the pump and cover:

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

@barefoot

How deep of a fly cut did you have put in? I have it apart and would be a EZ fix to ensure it does not happen again. OR CC volume would be helpful

thanks

Robert

Also IF fly cut I can swap the cam to larger if needed later....

Robert, this sucks Sorry to see you having to tear down the engine after all the work, but you're attacking the problem with determination.

It looks like a valve interfered on the surface of the piston. In reference to barefoot's question, one technique used to verify clearance is to put some substance like playdo on the piston surface, install the heads, and then rotate the engine through a cycle. Inspecting the playdo afterwards can help confirm that you have sufficient clearance between valve face and piston surface. I can't recall if you did something like that before final assembly. If you don't have sufficient clearance you'd need cylinder shims.

I hope that makes sense.

Dam sorry to hear that has happened, all seemed to be going so well. hope you get it solved without too much heart ache

pulled the connecting rods for an inspection of the bearings as seen here:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCmZH5kp3v8


Any one have an opinion of the condition of the lower end after break in and less that 100 miles?

I have never been in a fresh rebuild after only a few runs

Never good news, but keep your head down and do the detective work as necessary. It looks as though the valves/pistons had contact, hence the bent push rods. Also, oil pump appears not correct. Best of luck with the repairs.

Thank you every one who commented on the 2056 FAIL

Bottom end looks like everything is in good shape. Unless some on chimes in with comments on a failure i did not see I am going to reassemble the bottom end

The plan for the heads is to send them out to Gorge at EMW to get them ready to put back on. While I'm at it, I will send theKB pistons out with the heads and have them cut for valve reliefs . This is cheep insurance to keep this form happening again. and adult the rev limiter to about 6k...IM not making any power up above that. Double springs are good for way above that...so, Sounds like a good plan?

COST

2 push rods
2 Intake valves 44
Oil
Filter
assemble lube
Curl sealer
Piston Fly cuts
Weld 2 cracks in head by push rods. Bent pushups cam off rocker and punched through head


All in all, cheaper than the fix to my neighbors new F450 after hitting a deer at 70 mph
bumper 650
brackets 100
DYI

I guest Stuff happens, you just have to roll with it, fix it, and move on.. Things can always be a lot worse.

@930cabman


The pump is a type one 30 mm Shadeck modified for T4 from the type 4 store...if its good enough for Jake......

Here's image of my pistons, did not measure flycuts, sorry.

Click to view attachment

I went back and looked at your thread and it looks like you had a deck height of .037. That should be sufficient (although most 1st timers shoot for an even .040 minimum). How did you measure that? You shouldn't have to have a relief cut in the pistons if you have a good, confirmed deck height measurement. Just keep in mind that relief will increase your combustion chamber and lower your overall CR.

I would also believe that the lower end is probably ok.

Whatever you end up doing, good luck!

@BeatNavy

I think I have a video of the Deck height...

I used a dial indicator on a magnetic base to measure. Used a .100 parallel to find the zero on the indicator and then run the piston up to TDC or the smallest reading.
Smallest reading - .100= Deck height

Also reality check of a straight edge and feeler gage, gave the same value.

Oh man, I am so sorry to see you having to go through this after all your work. I like that you remain determined (immediately) to resolve this and get her back on the road. Good luck and I hope she is running again very soon.

Something really strange here, can't imagine vale float at 3K rpm & valves should be almost closed anytime the piston is anywhere near TDC. Only thing I can think of is If somehow the dual springs weren't seated properly and coil jammed and pushrod got bent then causing valves to hang open.
Really far out situations, only badly mis-indexed cam, or way off lash adjustment otherwise in play, but the engine certainly would not run under either of these conditions. Can't imagine that the camshaft is mis-ground as both collisions occurred off same lobe ????
Any other thoughts here ???

Those valve marks look like repeated hard contact.
If all the other setup dimensions were correct, you just didn't provide adequate valve/piston clearance.
When I set up an engine for a new cam, I replace my valve springs with rocker spacer springs and rock the engine near top dead center while repeatedly poking the valve against the piston. At some position before or after TDC, depending on which valve, it will reach the closest approach point. It's easy to measure piston/valve clearance from the outside that way.
I wouldn't go less than .080" and probably not less than .120" on intakes in most applications.
BTW, you can create the pockets you need with a hand held cutoff wheel worn down to valve head diameter. The location is well laid out already.