Thanks @chrisfoley I was hoping you would say that.. I will post back what I come up with. A little heat from the Oxygen Acetylene torch will change the shape in no time. But I will try a big hammer first. The metal may not be that hard. Every thing else seems to look and fits good and the little extra clearance on the clutch side make for a very clean clutch install with your remounted clutch pivot plate and some heat wrap. Looks very tidy.
Thanks again.. your the best and so are your parts


-Robert

This is getting interesting...I think some on set the throttle pedal stop high to keep there kid from going to FAST!. ..

TIP: ALWAYS check Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when setting up your carbs or throttle plate.

MY stop on the pedal board took more that a few, to several turns to get WOT!

Heheheh..this is going to be FUN!

Now to hook up the ignition(Power) wires on coil and HIFIre/MSD then test fire and timing...

Take a look down the throttle bore HERE:

Click to view attachment

Working on the shifter clearance it from hitting the exhaust pipe. These are hollow and fairly easy to bend. I took @ChrisFoley advice to maintain the locations of both ends by tracing a template of the Original shape on paper with a sharpie. Then off to the Vise to alter the shape and bend to fit. It took a few tries but I think I got it. Seem to get all the gears and does not touch . I will have to changes the Shift stops of the Rennshift, but that is not difficult at all. The white is just cheap primmer to show me where the rubbing was happening. Ill dust some black paint on it when I install the cover and boots after a test drive

Click to view attachment

Nice progress Robert. You will be driving that baby again in no time now.

@Cairo94507 The Engine is running now ...working on the carb sync and timing . Set to an initial 8 degrees right now. A fresh 5 gals of 94 octane to get this thing up and going in the right direction
New parking cables and new dust boots on the pistons for the rear caliber are in progress along with the SS flex hoses from PMB group buy. Going to be nice to have Fresh brake fluid after how many years?

I need some help PLEASE.

I have the engine back in the car and its running poor and start the "SAME" howling noise I had just before it failed the first time. The engine turns over with the bolt on alternator fine so not thinking bearing.. or alternator?.

Please take moment and listen to this and let me know what you thing...note the head temp and oil pressure in video looks good. the first howling noise as while running and I stoped immediately. The next morning i pulled the plugs and compression check :
COLD WOT with charger
1 140
2 140
3 140
4 145

Lots of miss firing popping and fouled plugs
replaced plugs and set timing to 28 @ 3500 ( 8 base) running but not real well not missing and no power


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzrqlBq0rqA

It's been so much fun, lets do it again?
Since I did not find the root cause and just repaired the heads and valves, it no surprise that it failed again! It looks like it was not an over rev condition the caused the pistons to hit the pistons. I will only be posting the Fixes I encounter moving forward to keep the World Advised. IT is going to take a while as I am reluctant to shot gun more $$$ at this again.
I will install the original 2.0 and put her back on the road and have some fun...while I find out what went wrong? Thanks for the support and a big shout out for advice to @Jake Raby

Well that sucks, sorry don't have any suggestions.

I agree that sucks Robert. Are you sure it's something internal and not something intake or ignitiion related? When you tore it down last time you had evidence of valve interference. Were you getting the same symptoms last time? Those compression numbers look good, so....maybe NOT something internal.

Otherwise I have not clue but hope for the best.

I'm going to do another compression test and maybe a leak down but somethings is amiss (pun intended ) ;-)

IM still hopeful as its not a catastrophic fail yet.. but the howling is seen on the first 15 min brake in and again on this build and can be heard on the video too. So internal seem likely..I will swap out he starter next as This was new to the 2056 on first start and ez to swap a Bosch in its place. Else its a bearing? I did reuse the bearings from first build as everything "LOOKED" ok and so were the journals

A howling sound might make me think something like gear noise. Could be as simple as a nick on either the cam gear(s) or the distributor drive gear(s). Best of luck

Is the howling noise the noise you re concerned about what we hear in the video BEFORE you turn the engine over and it sputters a little bit? The video you posted on the 12th?
@rfinegan

If the key is in (I'm guessing it is as the head temps are reading) but the engine is off and something is howling, I'm thinking fuel pump. How is the fuel pressure at the engine?
Zach

To me it sounds like a dry bearing and pulls /slow the engine down till a stall. This is the sound it made just prior to my valves bending and pushrods (see first fail). Odd enough, returning the next day the sound was gone and only a miss fire on Cylider 2 (the popping was seen on cylinder one in video)
Currently it is running on 4 cylinders and no noise. I have done several leak downs and compression test. Still in the Diagnostic phase of figuring what the heck is going on. Ever day its something different and new symptoms
Fuel pump is under the hood and 2-3 psi. It is relayed with the key on via the power relay on the play board. Self regulating at the pump

Could it have been a tight thrust play? Maybe something ground it's way free enough to no longer cause noise, friction and resistance?