I received my new "modified" cradle from Coldwater 914. It had one of the side braces modified to clear my header. Lots of pictures showing the headers installed on the motor, the cradle mounted to the motor and finally the engine and cradle installed in the car. I had to make my own transmission mount to accommodate the for and aft positioning of the motor /trans combination.
It is finally in the car!
Next thing to do it modify the chassis to make clearance for the intake manifold, starter, clutch slave cylinder and actuating arm.

After that it will be time to measure for the axles and have them sent out to be modified to accommodate the Subi inner and 914 outer CVs.

I received shift cables and the rear linkage for the transmission shifter from Coldwater 914. I think I will try this for now and possibly convert to my billet bracket shown in an earlier post at a later time. I received my fly by wire accel pedal from ebay and attached it to my newly acquired floor board. It looks pretty nice. After the motor and trans were installed in the car, I remounted my starter. It seems to have the clearance that I need without having to cut up trunk floor.

Is that the stock Subaru starter?

Looking great, and that's good news on the starter fitment.

Yes, at least I think so. It is the one that came with the trans when I bought it.

A little progress being made on the installation of the complete shifting mechanism. I installed the Coldwater 914 shift linkage to the transmission. I then installed the shift cables, (also supplied by Coldwater 914) and ran them though the hole that was once occupied by the shifting rod, ( let's refrain from the obvious jokes that will surely follow from that last statement). In order to connect the Heim joints on the cable to the shifter, I purchased some bronze bushings from Ace hardware that just happened to have an OD of 3/8" and an ID of 1/4". I placed a washer over the bushing to give it more clearance so that the Joint would not bind and hit metal during operation.
It was then that I decided to build a stand for the shifter to be mounted on. The whole idea was to locate the shifter higher and closer to me so that I would not have to reach so far to shift from gear to gear, as in a stock 914.
Being a weekend with most metal stores closed, I had to come up with a solution that I could do on a Sunday. So I went to Ace Hardware and bought some 1" aluminum angle and 1" square tubing and began to construct a box that the shifter could be mounted on. It is held together with 6mm Allen head screws and Nut-Certed where needed.
I am happy to report that this thing has all five gears along with reverse. It shifts like a Miata with a short shift kit installed. I have never felt a shifter that is this short, precise and crisp. I can't wait to see how it feels while driving.

Yep, you're going to like that location for your shifter and you've already tasted the fruit of this smooth, short throw combination.

the public demands updates!

Sorry for the slow updates, I have been painting my house and attended car shows, (Reno Hot August Nights and Monterrey car week). I have managed to work on the car a little here and there.
I got some aircraft paint remover and began stripping the paint from the exterior of the car along with the rear trunk. The car is basically straight. Both doors will need a little work to make them straight. All in all, I am happy with what I found under the old paint.

I installed my pedal box and began to plumb the hydraulic clutch assembly. This is not an easy job. There is very little room to work with, but I think I have got it solved.

I am running in to a problem with the gap in between the throw out bearing release arm and the rod from the clutch slave cylinder. It is too large. I think the should be touching, but there a gap of approximately 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I don't know if I installed it wrong or the the slave cylinder rod needs to be extended. (pictures of that to follow).

I've always enjoyed watching a good strip show.

That's odd. Hard to get wrong. Just two bolt holes to match up to. In fact you need to push the slave cylinder up against the arm in order to start the bolts. You usually need to trim off the top 13mm of that arm to clear the trunk. You don't need to connect that return spring on the arm. Did the release arm jump off the TO bearing?

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Me too Chris. Just be sure to get out of there before closing time when they turn the inside lights back up to 100% and you see what those girls really look like.

Bob: Thanks for the updates. I enjoy dropping by to see what trouble you have created. That Subi engine, with headers, minus emissions, is going to roar.

See attached pictures of the excessive clearance between the throw out bearing release arm and the clutch slave cylinder rod.
I don't know if I installed the release lever wrong, or the rod needs to be lengthened.

I don't think that is the correct slave cylinder. It is definitely different from the 2 that I have on my conversions. What is the TY# on your transmission.

Are you sure the T0B is locked into the clutch springs? With the slave cylinder removed you have to pull back on the release lever to get the TOB engaged. Then the lever will be all the way back with the slave rod pushed in. If the release lever is loose, it’s not engaged and won’t pull to release the clutch. At least that was my experience with mine (EJ20 & WRX trans).

This a picture of what it looks like inside the bell housing before I put it together. I'm wondering it the two tabs popped out of the sockets...

Looks a little different from mine, but my guess is you have the TOB reversed. The notch on the nose of the TOB engages with the locking ring on the clutch spring-fingers.

Hi Bob. Been a while. I've lusted after a swapped 914 since the day I shot that Retro Rides feature!

12 years on, I have one (well, a shell). I'm interested in putting an EZ30 in it and was delighted to find you doing just that, obviously.

I'm living in SoCal now. Hope to see you around some time

Jamie

Hi Jamie, Long time no talk! Your excellent pictures of my last build helped to give me my 15 minutes of fame...
This new build is pretty cool. You will love the shifting on the transmission. It's like a Miata with a short shift kit. The motor should put out about 300HP. It should be quick.
Let me know if you are ever in town, let's get together.

Updates??

That's backwards. The ring that spins needs to touch the PP. Also apply a LITTLE grease to anything that rubs.

Sorry for the long delay in updating the thread. My life got very busy as of late. I moved my office. I'm preparing my home for possible sale, and have been working on a separate
project. I have been making a Bomber seat for a friends Safari 911 with a little help from Tyga Boy.
I have made a little progress on the cooling system. I installed the coolant hoses from the front to the to rear, I drilled the holes and installed the grommets to protect them while passing through the fire wall. I made the hose connection from the the hose to the radiator. As they exit the fire wall and proceed to the radiator, they kink, so I had to install 90 degree fittings to make sure they get full flow and are not restricted. What I did is not the the final product, I'm really not happy with the result, but it will work for now. I plan to make one piece aluminum tubes from the firewall to the radiator in the future.
I completed the radiator and shrouding along with the top cover panel only to find that the hood would not shut and latch. GRRR.
I had to take it all apart and re-engineer it to make clearance. That meant cutting the frame apart, modify, re-weld along with cutting and reconfiguring the flanges on the shroud. After that, the brackets that hold the radiator to the frame had to be bent to properly fit.

Many of the things I am doing at this point are "proof of concept". I am just trying to get it to work. When completed and running, I will strip the car down to a bare shell, media blast, add the GT flares, paint the car, convert to 5 lug and make everything "pretty" as it goes back together. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Sorry for the long delay in updating the thread. My life got very busy as of late. I moved my office. I'm preparing my home for possible sale, and have been working on a separate
project. I have been making a Bomber seat for a friends Safari 911 with a little help from Tyga Boy.
I have made a little progress on the cooling system. I installed the coolant hoses from the front to the to rear, I drilled the holes and installed the grommets to protect them while passing through the fire wall. I made the hose connection from the the hose to the radiator. As they exit the fire wall and proceed to the radiator, they kink, so I had to install 90 degree fittings to make sure they get full flow and are not restricted. What I did is not the the final product, I'm really not happy with the result, but it will work for now. I plan to make one piece aluminum tubes from the firewall to the radiator in the future.
I completed the radiator and shrouding along with the top cover panel only to find that the hood would not shut and latch. GRRR.
I had to take it all apart and re-engineer it to make clearance. That meant cutting the frame apart, modify, re-weld along with cutting and reconfiguring the flanges on the shroud. After that, the brackets that hold the radiator to the frame had to be bent to properly fit.

Many of the things I am doing at this point are "proof of concept". I am just trying to get it to work. When completed and running, I will strip the car down to a bare shell, media blast, add the GT flares, paint the car, convert to 5 lug and make everything "pretty" as it goes back together. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

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I'm surprised the electrolysis police haven't commented yet. They did when I used some copper fittings. Some people read about it but fail to fully understand it. Bottom line; you have an aluminum engine, trans and radiator so basically no worries. Be sure to ground your Subaru trans just as the 901 was to be complete. You can add an anode rod to your radiator to insure it has a long life. BTW, I inspected a couple of my copper fittings after 20K and maybe a 2mm BB of aluminum on one of them. Good to see you back at it.

Major changes in my life... I have decided to go another direction with this project .

I am offering this project car along with many parts for sale.

5 bolt conversion parts: 911 SC front struts with calipers and rotors. PMB rear 5 bolt hubs and studs.

Brand new in the box GT flares.

7", 8" and 9" x 16" replica Fuchs

Brand new ECU Master ECU along with conversion plugs and wiring harness for the Subaru motor.

Brand new Subaru axles.

New Carpet kit

All the parts listed in the thread to this point.

PM me or call my cell @ 925 708-2698.

Bob

I'M BACK!

Things have changed for the better. I have decided to continue with this project.

I began by starting the GT flare conversion. I've posted pictures of the flares as I received them to before and after shots of the right front flare installation.

I won't cut the body and weld them permanently until all four are mocked up to verify correct fitment.

One detail of note when doing the flare installation is that you must cut away the bottom flange section of the existing body in order to fit the flares to the body. The flares won't fit flush if you don't...

The flares are looking great already. Bad Ass!

Ima start callin' you "Jed". Jed Clamp-it!

I have mocked up all four flares and am ready to weld them in permanently.

Excited to hear this fire up

Major transformation- very exciting.

The first flare to be permanently mounted. I will finish the welding and metal finishing once all the flares are mounted.

The remaining three flares are now mounted and tacked welded to the chassis. Final welding and metal finishing to follow.

Next up, 911 SC strut recondition. New paint, Bilstein inserts, bearings etc.

Upon completion of that, I will install them to begin the 5 bolt conversion.

I got a pair of 911 SC front struts that had been sitting around for many years. They were dirty and partially corroded. I began the disassembly of the the various components to begin their restoration. I first remove the calipers from the struts, then the hubs, then I separated the rotors from the hubs.

I began to clean the grease and grime from many years of neglect. I then bead blasted the struts, hubs and rotors.

I will paint the struts.

I will next replace the bearing races in the hubs and struts and reassemble the two together.

A couple pictures of how clean they came out. Sorry, I forgot to take a (before) picture.

After many hours of standing while bead blasting the struts, rotors and hubs, I began to think "I'm getting too old for this sh*t". My feet, back and neck were killing me.

The good news is, progress has been made!

I replaced the seal race on the struts, ( they were was removed in error and subsequently thrown away, Grrr).

The struts were painted, new inserts installed (Bilstein) and now ready for installation.

The A arms were blasted and repainted.

New bearings, races and seals were installed in the hubs; rotors were bolted on and now the units were ready for installation.

New ball joint were installed.

There is a special socket used to remove and replace the ball joints. It is an easy job when you have the right tools.

Much thanks to fellow 914 World member Mark Saunders for lending me the tool.

The 5 bolt front end conversion has been completed with exception of the calipers. They will be rebuilt and installed at a later time.

All put together now with temporary 6" Fuchs on the front. They will be replaced with 8s in the future/

Love the Tarrett front sway bar. I crawled under your car yesterday. Nice job on the turbo tie rod ends with boots.

With the 5 bolt conversion more than half way completed, it is now time to sell my virtually brand new EMPI 4 bolt Fuchs replica wheels (5.5") mounted with Bridgestone Potenza RE71R tires. They are 205/50/15. They only have about 300-400 miles on them.
This will also include new lug bolts as well.

$750.00 for the set.

I will also list this in the classified section.

I treated myself to a nice birthday present last week.

I bought a new TIG welder from Eastwood. They had a great sale going on, so I thought "why not".

I recently sold my old HUGH Lincoln Square wave transformer welder. It was giving me problems, so I thought I would upgrade with a more modern unit.

I also had to make a 50 amp to 30 amp conversion plug/extension cord while I was at it.

Happy birthday and early Christmas all wrapped up in one.

Happy Holidays everyone! I hope you all had a great Christmas.

More progress is being made.

I removed the rear trailing arms. I then bead blasted, primered and painted them to give them a new refreshed look.

I have shown a before and after pictures to illustrate.

I then replaced the pivot bushings and main hub bearing. I used my new Harbor freight bearing and race removing tool to accomplish that task.

I then decided to give myself a present form Santa. I bought a Harbor Freight hydraulic press.

I used it to press in the new studs into my new PMB 5 bolt hubs. It is a little challenging trying to get it set up as each progressive stud is pressed into the hub. After using a few different pieces of metal to evenly distribute the load on the hub, it worked beautifully.

All was going well until I attempted to install the hub onto the trailing arm. I tried to be very careful and get the hub square to the trailing arm. It was off just a little, so I rocked it to adjust it and the bearing split apart. GRRR.

I decided to turn off the lights, shut the garage door, order a new bearing and try again another day.

Those trailing arms and hubs look GREAT! Sucks about the bearing but you'll get past this in no time!

You'll end up using the press on lots of projects.