Well, I suppose I’ve put it off long enough.
I’m finally starting a build/progress page on my 72 914 project.

About the car: I’ve owned it for over a decade, and had it set aside as a quick & easy restoration project, because I “fooled” myself into thinking I had a fairly “rust free” example.
I work, a lot of hours (self employed) and own multiple project cars, so I didn’t start working on this car until recently.
...once I did “start” on it,,,, I became painfully aware of just how bad the car actually was.

The plan, since I ended up stripping the car down to the bare tub, I decided to build my idea/vision of a true sports car.....
In my opinion, the 914 is a perfect “canvas” for such a build. Focus will be on:
Light weight, handling, simplicity, and fun t o drive.

Goal weight is around 1800 pounds, using some carbon deck lids, GT style engine cover, etc.
Goal HP around 250 plus, will come from a Subaru 6cyl.

About me, My background is as an Indy mercedes mechanic for just over 40 years. I’ve never done rust repair or bodywork myself though, as I’ve always hired out those types of jobs. This little 914 is going to be my “tech school” into metal work as a spare time project. Hopefully I’ll be able to work on it one day per weekend on it and possible make monthly updates. I guess we’ll have to see...........

Here she is... when I initially started

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“Hell hole” area didn’t look too bad, at first.Click to view attachment

Outside of jack pad area looked a little roughClick to view attachment

Had typical holes across the rear of the trunk floorClick to view attachment

Rear of floor pan looked not too bad.Click to view attachment

First little surprise was bondo hiding a hole here.Click to view attachment

Dropping the drivetrain out.Click to view attachment

Yup, both sides had little bubbles that just grew into holes as I picked at them.Click to view attachment

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This stuff is “The Devil” boooooo! Eats 914s from the inside out![s]Click to view attachment

I even yanked out the old crusty wiring harness. I’ll be replacing it with my own custom harness which will be much simpler and lighter. Going to use GT style cables on the headlights, so I will be eliminating the front headlight motors, etc.
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Floor pan actually seems saveable. Just has a bad spot in the front left cornerClick to view attachment

Trunk floor is Swiss cheeseClick to view attachment

It must have been in a small rear end collision at one time. The tail panel was loaded with a ton of bondo and was a wrinkled mess. I’ll be using one from a donor car Click to view attachment

Went ahead and made up some door opening braces. I mounted them inboard so I can still fit the doors on the car while the braces are in.Click to view attachment

Starting to make cross braces and supports for a cart for the car. Borrowed the idea from I believe ,MR Hall’s build here.Click to view attachment

Cart constructionClick to view attachment

Rear suspension mount. Also added one at the trans mount area and a support under the firewall/floor pan area.

Time to start the rust huntClick to view attachment

First “lesson learned”. I should have left the door latch area installed and just cut the door jam around it. Click to view attachment

My first attempt at installing a patch that I cut out from a donor car.Click to view attachment

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Uh oh, suspension console is toast.Click to view attachment

Made a simple jig to locate the hole for the control armClick to view attachment

Removed old console pieceClick to view attachment

Need to make a small patch for the skin behind the suspension consoleClick to view attachment

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Test fitting new pieceClick to view attachment

Decided to put the whole thing on an auto twirler pro rotisserie, so I can more easily reach all areas of the shell. Click to view attachment

Starting to prep my new trunk panel and donor car tail panel for test fittingClick to view attachment

In additi9on to the original tail panel being full of bondo, both rear corners of the rear fenders were wrinkled & full of old body slide hammer repair holes, etc. I decided to section the tail panel in with both rear fender corners.Click to view attachment

In order to get a decent fit, I made a “flexible shape pattern” of each side of the good fender panels with painters tape & fiberglass reinforced tape. (Got the tip from Wray Schelin’s pro shaper workshop video on YouTube).
Worked really well for my first try at this. I copied the shape of the fender then transferred it to the car.Click to view attachment

“Flexible shape pattern” set onto the body with magnets so I can mark where I need to cut.Click to view attachment

Cuts made. Before I install the rear pieces permanently, I plan to have the whole shell blasted & epoxy primed, clean etc, Click to view attachment

Aaand, voila! It fits pretty good. Needs slight trim here & there, but I’m happy with itClick to view attachment

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I’m going to be installing two of the upper trans mount covers instead of one in the middle like factory did it.Click to view attachment

Got an idea for cleaning surface rust out of hard to reach areas, like the upper rear frame rails and center tunnel area. Here is a before shot
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I’m going to flush the area with a rust solution,using a submersible pump,some hose, and a tarp to catch it into a plastic tote
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After flushing.
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It looks like you've already made some serious progress. Let us know how we can help.