The PO has put synthetic in the case of My Type IV since he got it.
The motor drips a little. Is synthetic to thin? Should I keep going synthetic?
Full Version: What oil type for a type IV?
valvoline 20W50
I use Castrol 5W50. Ran mobil 1 for a few years and leaked more (maybe even burned more). I can't say that I noticed any difference in engine behavior. I think I get quieter startups with castrol- it is definitely thicker at low temp.
5 weight???!!!
that's nuts.
that's nuts.
I believe Jake's dyno test proved Royal Purple to provide the best results.
But I use Wong Hung Lo's Karma Sutra Super Slick Formula #2 Oil.
Paul
But I use Wong Hung Lo's Karma Sutra Super Slick Formula #2 Oil.
Paul
Britt-
I'm pretty sure the spec is for straight 50 weight. It gets plenty hot round here, and I don't feel any concern. Been running 50 or 5W50 in VW flat fours for 25 years without problems.
I'm pretty sure the spec is for straight 50 weight. It gets plenty hot round here, and I don't feel any concern. Been running 50 or 5W50 in VW flat fours for 25 years without problems.
Multiviscosity oils have a tendency to breakdown faster than single viscosity oils. Since most 914's leak some oil it's always easier on the pocketbook and garage floor to go with the less expensive oil, especially if you are a frequent oil changer.
SO I guess that synthetic is the Choice but I have to make sure that it's a 50 weight synthetic AKA 5w-50.
Now is the valvoline 20w- 50 synthetic because that sounds like a good weight for my lightly dripping type IV.
Now is the valvoline 20w- 50 synthetic because that sounds like a good weight for my lightly dripping type IV.
Valvoline full syn or Royal Purple syn.
if you want to go Dino, go Kendall 20-50... gud stuff!
if you want to go Dino, go Kendall 20-50... gud stuff!
i thought synthetic was bad for the seals.....
| QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 4 2005, 08:28 AM) |
| i thought synthetic was bad for the seals..... |
that's some PITA BS... only clubs are bad for seals
if the seals are good, syn is good
if you start leaking by switching to syn, you need to fix the leak, not switch back to dino.
okay.
learning more and more.
learning more and more.
| QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 4 2005, 05:38 AM) |
| okay. learning more and more. |
When I do a build up of a new motor I'll use Synthetic.
Dino use Shell Rottilla T diesel oil...Valvoline and Kendal are also good.
Syn I use the Valvoline, a lot of guys rave about royal purple but I haven't tried it because its spendy and hard to get here.
Weight is a debate that can start flame wars...I use a bit lighter weight than you southern boys. Most of my engines use the Shell Rottilla T diesel oil 15w40.
Syn I use the Valvoline, a lot of guys rave about royal purple but I haven't tried it because its spendy and hard to get here.
Weight is a debate that can start flame wars...I use a bit lighter weight than you southern boys. Most of my engines use the Shell Rottilla T diesel oil 15w40.
Usual spec is for 30W oil. Older engines tend to leak a lot with synthetic. Perhaps a fresh engine, once broken in, could use synthetic successfully. Perhaps a partial synthetic blend might work better. High and low temperature climes would likely have to use multiweight or adjust to different single weight oils.
Personally, I don't think synthetic is cost effective in these engines. Starting in the dead of winter is a possible exception, but we don't do that anymore do we!
Personally, I don't think synthetic is cost effective in these engines. Starting in the dead of winter is a possible exception, but we don't do that anymore do we!
Now what about those High milage mixes?
I have no idea how many miles are on the motor in my car.
Hell I don't know how many miles are on the chassis.
But the motor is out of a 75 2.0 and it looks pretty good but I'm not sure if it was ever gone through
I have no idea how many miles are on the motor in my car.
Hell I don't know how many miles are on the chassis.
But the motor is out of a 75 2.0 and it looks pretty good but I'm not sure if it was ever gone through
I use 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic for my 2.0 and I have NO leaks. My only leak is in my trani.
Nothing wrong with the factory's suggestion, regardless of mileage. In my climate, that's Castrol 30W.
Put Royal Purple in my 74 2.0 when I got it. No leaks. Switched to synthetic on one of my new cars and noticed a big difference when I went to get emissions test, dropped all values. I think if your having trouble passing emission test on dino oil, try synthetic oil and I bet you see a difference (run at least one oil change first with syn.).
Ralph
74 2.0
Ralph
74 2.0
synthetic in my 914 and 356, but I do not use it in cars that are big leakers (for economic reasons) nor in my Bug which i have yet to ad an oil filter (hence the oil is changed every 1000-1500 miles) In the 914 I go 3000-4000 max miles on oil changes with the sythetic. I do not like the idea of the claims of 10000 mile life of the oil cuase
our engines tend to run hotter than newer water cooled cars, and the clearances are not as tight so combustion gasses tend to get into the oil. thus I believe the oil is not clean enough after than many miles, or has the potential to be worn out (thats just a hunch on my part) to I will not do 10000 oil changes. I doubt I'd go that far even on a new car (If I ever buy one, like hell will freeze first)
So synthetic is great, it keeps the rockers clean, no dirt build up after 174000 miles of synthetic use on a Vanagon (water cooled 2.1 l) I have never seem a dino engine with the valve covers off look this clean after that many miles.
Sythetic is too expensive however if you do very frequent oil changes, burn or leak excessive oil.
I Run Mobil One 15W50 in my 914, but swithed to Valvoline full sythetic 20W50 in the Vanagon do to low oil pressure (hey, didn't say it was perfect after 174000 miles)
When experimenting with different oils, be sure to have a pressure gage hooked up, it is very useful in determining the correct weight for you driving conditions, and can alert you to problems before they become very expensive problems. An oil temp gage is also nice to have, but pressure I think is the best gage to have if you only run one of the two, as if the oil gets too hot, it will show as a pressure drop. a temp gage will not show a sudden loss in oil pressure until too late.
good luck in you selection.
But do not freak out to much about it, our engines are happy with either type of oil, they like generally the thicker stuff (the thin gas saving oils are too thin, an oil pressure gage will show that). and they really love frequent oil changes (and valve adjustments)
Also 914's are best run with OEM type filters use Mann or Mahle brand and you are safe. Fram brand 914 filters are junk, have had the insides come apart twice on me. The OEM type German filters are built better, have more material in them, and I have never had one come apart on me like the orange Fram filters. I cringe everytime I see an Orange filter hung under a 914 or VW Bus engine.
our engines tend to run hotter than newer water cooled cars, and the clearances are not as tight so combustion gasses tend to get into the oil. thus I believe the oil is not clean enough after than many miles, or has the potential to be worn out (thats just a hunch on my part) to I will not do 10000 oil changes. I doubt I'd go that far even on a new car (If I ever buy one, like hell will freeze first)
So synthetic is great, it keeps the rockers clean, no dirt build up after 174000 miles of synthetic use on a Vanagon (water cooled 2.1 l) I have never seem a dino engine with the valve covers off look this clean after that many miles.
Sythetic is too expensive however if you do very frequent oil changes, burn or leak excessive oil.
I Run Mobil One 15W50 in my 914, but swithed to Valvoline full sythetic 20W50 in the Vanagon do to low oil pressure (hey, didn't say it was perfect after 174000 miles)
When experimenting with different oils, be sure to have a pressure gage hooked up, it is very useful in determining the correct weight for you driving conditions, and can alert you to problems before they become very expensive problems. An oil temp gage is also nice to have, but pressure I think is the best gage to have if you only run one of the two, as if the oil gets too hot, it will show as a pressure drop. a temp gage will not show a sudden loss in oil pressure until too late.
good luck in you selection.
But do not freak out to much about it, our engines are happy with either type of oil, they like generally the thicker stuff (the thin gas saving oils are too thin, an oil pressure gage will show that). and they really love frequent oil changes (and valve adjustments)
Also 914's are best run with OEM type filters use Mann or Mahle brand and you are safe. Fram brand 914 filters are junk, have had the insides come apart twice on me. The OEM type German filters are built better, have more material in them, and I have never had one come apart on me like the orange Fram filters. I cringe everytime I see an Orange filter hung under a 914 or VW Bus engine.
Castor oil is very expensive, and not recommended for automotive applications.
AND, as anyone who knows any French will tell you, Castor oil is made from freshly squeezed Beavers, as found on the Canadian $0.05 piece.
I like to use synthetic blends myself, not too $$$, and I just use the recommended 30W.
AND, as anyone who knows any French will tell you, Castor oil is made from freshly squeezed Beavers, as found on the Canadian $0.05 piece.
I like to use synthetic blends myself, not too $$$, and I just use the recommended 30W.
I live by Royal Purple 20/50 full synthetic.
I have went up to 18K miles and never changed it in my 912E... Its used it since its conception in 2002- 84K miles ago....
Since the engine in that car is nearing its 100K teardown and soup up I have decided NOT to change the oil any more until the engine dies....
Thats how much I believe in it based on prior experiences and my own test results.
I have been gathering oils from various Mfr's for a "Re-do" of my oil tests that I did in 2002, but much more extensive now that I have the datalogger.
I have went up to 18K miles and never changed it in my 912E... Its used it since its conception in 2002- 84K miles ago....
Since the engine in that car is nearing its 100K teardown and soup up I have decided NOT to change the oil any more until the engine dies....
Thats how much I believe in it based on prior experiences and my own test results.
I have been gathering oils from various Mfr's for a "Re-do" of my oil tests that I did in 2002, but much more extensive now that I have the datalogger.
| QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Aug 4 2005, 10:25 AM) |
| I have been gathering oils from various Mfr's for a "Re-do" of my oil tests that I did in 2002, but much more extensive now that I have the datalogger. |
Cool! Are you going to test Rotella T Synthetic? (I ask because it's cheap at wal-mart.. $13 a gallon)
Yep- They already sent me a case of it...
| QUOTE (bondo @ Aug 4 2005, 01:04 PM) | ||
Cool! Are you going to test Rotella T Synthetic? (I ask because it's cheap at wal-mart.. $13 a gallon) |
I don't think Rotella -T is synthetic... I could be wrong though... it is a diesel oil.
| QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Aug 4 2005, 05:46 AM) | ||
When I do a build up of a new motor I'll use Synthetic. |
Only use syth oil in a new motor after break in. Otherwise the break in time will be longer.
For what it worth...."Synthetic" oil IS "DINO" oil.. it's just much more highly refined.
Oil is made up of long, medium, and short chain molecules. The more long chain molecules, the higher the viscosity (tougher to "untangle" them).
Synthetics (at least in the Car and Driver article I read when they first hit the market) are the result of filtering out all the medium and short chain oil molecules through lots of expensive refining.
When oil it stressed by temperature and pressure, the chains get sheared into smaller chains (viscosity lowers proportionally). The ability for the oil to maintain a thick film between 2 moving parts diminishes also. It's a numbers game, the more long chains you start with, the higher the probability over time (before it all leaks out on the transaxle and muffler) you have of more long chains at any given moment.
I've never heard of Synthetics being more likely to leak past seals. (I'm no expert however). It would seem to me, if what Car and Driver was saying, the long chain molecules would actually be LESS likely to leak past seals, or porous castings since they are bigger??!! Or is it the case that the same guys who run the synthetics, proportionally beat the shit out of their engines thinking they have a little more "insurance"???
2cents...
Oil is made up of long, medium, and short chain molecules. The more long chain molecules, the higher the viscosity (tougher to "untangle" them).
Synthetics (at least in the Car and Driver article I read when they first hit the market) are the result of filtering out all the medium and short chain oil molecules through lots of expensive refining.
When oil it stressed by temperature and pressure, the chains get sheared into smaller chains (viscosity lowers proportionally). The ability for the oil to maintain a thick film between 2 moving parts diminishes also. It's a numbers game, the more long chains you start with, the higher the probability over time (before it all leaks out on the transaxle and muffler) you have of more long chains at any given moment.
I've never heard of Synthetics being more likely to leak past seals. (I'm no expert however). It would seem to me, if what Car and Driver was saying, the long chain molecules would actually be LESS likely to leak past seals, or porous castings since they are bigger??!! Or is it the case that the same guys who run the synthetics, proportionally beat the shit out of their engines thinking they have a little more "insurance"???
2cents...
I voted for synthetic because I'm running a turbo.
As far as "synthetics leak more", that's not an issue any more. When synthetics first showed up on the shelf at your local FLAPS there were some seal issues, not because the oil was synthetic, but because of the additive recipes being used. This was straightened out years ago by all the brands and isn't an issue today. Synthetic oil = better oil. Period. That's the good news. Bad news is that it's expensive (my daily driver takes 8 quarts at a change. Ugh.).
-Ben M.
As far as "synthetics leak more", that's not an issue any more. When synthetics first showed up on the shelf at your local FLAPS there were some seal issues, not because the oil was synthetic, but because of the additive recipes being used. This was straightened out years ago by all the brands and isn't an issue today. Synthetic oil = better oil. Period. That's the good news. Bad news is that it's expensive (my daily driver takes 8 quarts at a change. Ugh.).
-Ben M.
| QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Aug 4 2005, 11:22 AM) | ||||
I don't think Rotella -T is synthetic... I could be wrong though... it is a diesel oil. |
They make both.. white bottle - dino... blue bottle - synthetic.
| QUOTE (bondo @ Aug 4 2005, 03:47 PM) | ||||||
They make both.. white bottle - dino... blue bottle - synthetic. |
ok, my bad! 
hadn't seen the synthetic!
year old bump for this thread.
I'll try to find some royal purple locally. If not, mobil 1 will do.
I agree that some of the cheap oil filters are crap, but what do you guys think about the newer k&N and mobil 1 oil filters compared to the OE types. I know some guys hate change, but the new stuff should be better.
It will be interesting to get some oil analysis done on this car.
I'll try to find some royal purple locally. If not, mobil 1 will do.
I agree that some of the cheap oil filters are crap, but what do you guys think about the newer k&N and mobil 1 oil filters compared to the OE types. I know some guys hate change, but the new stuff should be better.
It will be interesting to get some oil analysis done on this car.
The mobil 1 oil filter is the best quality spin on you're going to find; the K&N might be a little bit better built, but it lacks the filtration of the m1 and is focused on flow.
If you can't get RP locally, Jegs is a good source. I'd recommend the max cycle 20w50 RP, more anti-wear additives.
If you can't get RP locally, Jegs is a good source. I'd recommend the max cycle 20w50 RP, more anti-wear additives.
Bought a NAPA gold oil filter for my Mercedes,cartridge type, what a piece of junk made in India stamped on it ......very uneven and crude looking pleats ,end plates ragged....took it right back. Won't use anything but the good German OEM filters in my cars now.Castrol 20-50 in the 914.Oh yes the NAPA filter was more money than the OEM filter.
Mobile 1 15/50 for me. Although Royal Purple is easier to see on the dip stick.
Elliot
Elliot
I had my motor installed by a 914 mechanic with lots of aircooled porsche experience and he filled it with MOTUL 6100 20-50W and I have been going back to him to buy the stuff. He is a "distrubutor" and sells me the gallon for $20, and I got some free stickers! Any leaking sticks to the case, no drips from engine. 
QUOTE(Brian Mifsud @ Aug 4 2005, 12:50 PM) 
For what it worth...."Synthetic" oil IS "DINO" oil.. it's just much more highly refined.
Oil is made up of long, medium, and short chain molecules. The more long chain molecules, the higher the viscosity (tougher to "untangle" them).
Synthetics (at least in the Car and Driver article I read when they first hit the market) are the result of filtering out all the medium and short chain oil molecules through lots of expensive refining.
Looks like whether it's "true synthetic" or derived from mineral oil depends on the product brand:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
QUOTE(cnavarro @ Oct 29 2006, 02:31 PM)
The mobil 1 oil filter is the best quality spin on you're going to find; the K&N might be a little bit better built, but it lacks the filtration of the m1 and is focused on flow.
If you can't get RP locally, Jegs is a good source. I'd recommend the max cycle 20w50 RP, more anti-wear additives.
Thanks for the Jegs source. I think NAPA usually carries it.
I did the first oil change today. I used M1 15-50 with a Mobil 1 filter. I agree that M1 makes a great filter. I think a bypass setup is the best, but that is money, space, and weight.
What is up with the oil filter location. I have SSI's so getting the filter off was insane. I felt like I was going to break the clutch cable trying to get the old one off and the new one in. Is there a better way then just forcing it between the HE and the clutch cable?
I did a 3,450 mile cross country test in May of 06 and tested 5 different oils.. Pre and post analysis was done as well as 24 channels of data acquisition during the test..
.........I'm still standing by my Royal purple! One oil shiowed less wear material than the Royal Purple on this test, and we are doing further tests between the two to try and find the differences or note some trends that led up to this..
I'll be doing further oil testing in the new lab soon, we have a desire to find the oil that frees up the most power and provides the least wear material in post analysis... To date I have not gathered any power figures during oil testing, the new lab is the perfect environment for this type of test work..
To date I have logged 121K miles on the engine in my 912E, thats since September of 2002.. every one of those has been on Royal Purple.
I have went a maximum of 23K miles on a single oil change with the Royal Purple in that engine. In 10,000 miles i **might** burn 1 Qt of oil!
.........I'm still standing by my Royal purple! One oil shiowed less wear material than the Royal Purple on this test, and we are doing further tests between the two to try and find the differences or note some trends that led up to this..
I'll be doing further oil testing in the new lab soon, we have a desire to find the oil that frees up the most power and provides the least wear material in post analysis... To date I have not gathered any power figures during oil testing, the new lab is the perfect environment for this type of test work..
To date I have logged 121K miles on the engine in my 912E, thats since September of 2002.. every one of those has been on Royal Purple.
I have went a maximum of 23K miles on a single oil change with the Royal Purple in that engine. In 10,000 miles i **might** burn 1 Qt of oil!
Oil change is always RP with new filter (walmart brand). Engine has decided to start leaking a bit (maybe I shouldn't beat it so much). so I add Rotella when required because of the zinc additive. The only day my engine will ever get a break is when I pull it and replace it with my new one.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
It's the culmination of thousands of dollars of testing and hundreds of hours of research.
Let me clear the air on some of the suggestions. Castrol Syntec 5w50 has one of the lowest TBN and lowest Zn and P levels of any oil I tested. Don't use it in your aircooled engine. Better off with Castrol GTX 20w50 or even better, GTX High Mileage.
If you like the old-school Kendall, the new stuff is not it. You can get the old green stuff under the Brad-Penn/Penn-Grade label - Racing 20w50. I think it's one of the best dino oils money can buy.
I don't think most old type 4's should run anything thinner than 15w40 unless your engine is tighter than....
It's the culmination of thousands of dollars of testing and hundreds of hours of research.
Let me clear the air on some of the suggestions. Castrol Syntec 5w50 has one of the lowest TBN and lowest Zn and P levels of any oil I tested. Don't use it in your aircooled engine. Better off with Castrol GTX 20w50 or even better, GTX High Mileage.
If you like the old-school Kendall, the new stuff is not it. You can get the old green stuff under the Brad-Penn/Penn-Grade label - Racing 20w50. I think it's one of the best dino oils money can buy.
I don't think most old type 4's should run anything thinner than 15w40 unless your engine is tighter than....
Use a good filter - i.e. a k&n gold or even better, the mobil 1 branded filter. At the bare minimum, use a good oe mahle or mann. Without good filtration, might as well be running dollar store oil.
I started using synthetic years ago after I had to help clean the track twice, once dino oil and once synth. The Mobil1 was way more slippery than the dino oil was, we were all slipping around trying to sweep the track. I figure if it's that slick on dirty asphalt, imagine what it can do for the inside of your engine.
I won't run synth until after break in, on one engine the rings never seated when I started out with Mobil1, but they seated right away with the super cheap stuff (non detergent) at first and then Castrol for the rest of the break in.
Since I've been running Mobil1 I haven't blown up an engine.
BTW I knew 3 guys who were running Kendall in their racecars and all 3 of them grenaded engines regularly. There's no proof that it was the oil, but it left a bad taste in my mouth.
I won't run synth until after break in, on one engine the rings never seated when I started out with Mobil1, but they seated right away with the super cheap stuff (non detergent) at first and then Castrol for the rest of the break in.
Since I've been running Mobil1 I haven't blown up an engine.
BTW I knew 3 guys who were running Kendall in their racecars and all 3 of them grenaded engines regularly. There's no proof that it was the oil, but it left a bad taste in my mouth.
QUOTE(cnavarro @ Feb 13 2007, 01:48 PM)
If you like the old-school Kendall, the new stuff is not it. You can get the old green stuff under the Brad-Penn/Penn-Grade label - Racing 20w50. I think it's one of the best dino oils money can buy.
The old Kendall used to be the only stuff recommended by two local Porsche pros that I really trust. Then Kendall went and reformulated, and I've still got a few quarts of their non-green stuff left...
Glad to hear that it's available again under a different name!
That was pretty good stuff. But I think I'll stick with Rotella T (non-synthetic) for my 914, now.--DD
The Brad Penn IS the OLD Kendall..
This is proven.
Charles and I have worked together for 18months on this oil stuff and he has put a ton of time into research while I have tested and provided post analysis samples as well as data for the work..
Soon we'll be topping the tests off with power tests from the new lab and more samples and data acquisition at various oil temperatures. In the new lab I have the capability to set an oil temperature and MAINTAIN that temperature despite load, RPM, ambient conditions and etc. I can set one temp and the system keeps the oil that temp! I integrated this primarily to provide an equal testing field for all engines and changes without the temp of the oil playinga rold in our findings, creatibg a variable.
This is proven.
Charles and I have worked together for 18months on this oil stuff and he has put a ton of time into research while I have tested and provided post analysis samples as well as data for the work..
Soon we'll be topping the tests off with power tests from the new lab and more samples and data acquisition at various oil temperatures. In the new lab I have the capability to set an oil temperature and MAINTAIN that temperature despite load, RPM, ambient conditions and etc. I can set one temp and the system keeps the oil that temp! I integrated this primarily to provide an equal testing field for all engines and changes without the temp of the oil playinga rold in our findings, creatibg a variable.
I run R.P. in both my vehichles, per Jake.
good stuff, not cheap.
good stuff, not cheap.
CNavarro,
Your work was very informative. I think I learned a lot by reading it. Next oil change I plan to switch to Castrol High Mileage 15/50 & Mobile 1 filter; I currently run Castrol SAE 30 with Napa gold filter, I guess just because that's what the previous owner used to run in it before I bought it.
My question is about change intervals. I usually change my oil every 3-4 months, and very rarely reach 3000 miles. I don't drive anything very often, because I work at home and have a family. When I go someplace I usually have to take 4 seats, and if the weather's good, I try to find time to ride a couple of motorcycles too (everything needs to get run as often as possible). According to your material it's not actually good to change oil too often, but doesn't breakdown occur due to chemicals left behind from combustion in the engine regardless of mileage? Is it Okay to wait until you reach 3000 miles even if it takes 4-6 months?
Thanks for the information so-far!
Your work was very informative. I think I learned a lot by reading it. Next oil change I plan to switch to Castrol High Mileage 15/50 & Mobile 1 filter; I currently run Castrol SAE 30 with Napa gold filter, I guess just because that's what the previous owner used to run in it before I bought it.
My question is about change intervals. I usually change my oil every 3-4 months, and very rarely reach 3000 miles. I don't drive anything very often, because I work at home and have a family. When I go someplace I usually have to take 4 seats, and if the weather's good, I try to find time to ride a couple of motorcycles too (everything needs to get run as often as possible). According to your material it's not actually good to change oil too often, but doesn't breakdown occur due to chemicals left behind from combustion in the engine regardless of mileage? Is it Okay to wait until you reach 3000 miles even if it takes 4-6 months?
Thanks for the information so-far!
I would continue to change the oil every 3 months, if using a non-synthetic, like Castrol GTX High Mileage 20w50 - it's the moisture in the engine that breaks down the oil more than anything. On my not-so-daily driver I barely put 2,000 mi in 3 months on it because of very short drives, and change it using the manufacturer specified non-syn every 3 months regardless.
My reference to changing the oils too much goes to the Porsche 356 guys, who change their oil every 1000 mi. Alternatively, I have heard of people who drive thousands of miles a week. They change their oil every 3,000 mi, which might only be a week or a week and a half. They would be better running a better filter and better oil, and going for longer drain intervals.
It all has to do with your driving habits. If all you do is short drives and never get the oil hot >210F for a prolonged period of time, sludge forms and moisture wreaks havoc on the oil. That's why I recommend the 3 month time frame. But if you don't drive it often, but when you do, you get it nice and hot and drive it for an extended period of time (no white/yellow gunk on the oil filler cap), I'd say you are safe doing a 6 month drain interval. This does not include winter months, just change it before bringing it out of hibernation.
My reference to changing the oils too much goes to the Porsche 356 guys, who change their oil every 1000 mi. Alternatively, I have heard of people who drive thousands of miles a week. They change their oil every 3,000 mi, which might only be a week or a week and a half. They would be better running a better filter and better oil, and going for longer drain intervals.
It all has to do with your driving habits. If all you do is short drives and never get the oil hot >210F for a prolonged period of time, sludge forms and moisture wreaks havoc on the oil. That's why I recommend the 3 month time frame. But if you don't drive it often, but when you do, you get it nice and hot and drive it for an extended period of time (no white/yellow gunk on the oil filler cap), I'd say you are safe doing a 6 month drain interval. This does not include winter months, just change it before bringing it out of hibernation.
QUOTE(cnavarro @ Feb 15 2007, 05:59 AM)
My reference to changing the oils too much goes to the Porsche 356 guys, who change their oil every 1000 mi. Alternatively, I have heard of people who drive thousands of miles a week. They change their oil every 3,000 mi, which might only be a week or a week and a half. They would be better running a better filter and better oil, and going for longer drain intervals.
Off Topic, but I did an engine swap in my friend's '94 toyota pickup in '04. It was a newspaper delivery vehicle that drove halfway across the state and back 7 days a week. They changed the oil every week. The engine that I removed had 749,000 miles on it in a 10 year old truck. This is not a second-hand story. I drove the truck into the shop, it ran fine but it wouldn't pass smog anymore. I drained the oil, the started it up with no oil and floored it, left it floored for 2 minutes but it wouldn't blow up!
I need to ask what kind of oil they used.
I remember Jake recommending Royal Purple 20w-50. LN Engineering had a pretty good article...sorry can't find the link. I always thought that with time the oils were getting better...not necessarily. They have changed formulations to help improve emissions. To do this they have reduced there wear fighting chemicals. If you don't have a catalityc converter try running a diesel oil! When I picked up my cam, Dima Elgin (local cam grinder) recommended Delo 400, 15w-40. The diesel oils still have the good stuff! 
Regarding the toyota, my grandfather had I think it was an 84 toyota pickup - needed a new tranny a like 350,000 and new engine at 450,000 - he drove that thing like a race car (he later had a miata before passing away). Damn fastest 70 yo I knew. Toyotas were built to last. I have a friend whose family owns lexuses (lexi?) and they had one of the first ls's and they hadn't changed the oil in it since it was new (had over 100,000 mi on it when I met him). Family still has it many, many thousands of miles later.
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