Straight bolt up and use a decent reconed unit,you will be fine or do the same with a 911 one.
I find mine rev's fast enough with a 911t stock flywheel but I know the factory 914/6 one is drilled and lighter.
Will be following your progress,cheers.

I thought a bit about the light weight flywheel after posting- the unit in the car is a Qsc and supposedly 13lbs. Didn’t seem heavy…

Pete

I noticed the AA Performance has one listed @ $235 and it is drilled like the 914/6 original,I have purchased 2 flywheels from them and found them to be good quality.
Cheers.

Thanks for that. At this point question the quality of the cheap QSC unit that was used in the car. Probably fine and I'll throw it back on and check the runout...

Based on this thread I think I'll stick with something German made. Seems mat AA has some questionable parts.....

Sachs/flywheel fit

Mostly what I need to know is if the stock 215mm PP are up to the task and if not what PP should be used. My gut says yes but would be nice to know for sure.

Pete

You want to lookup info on SACHS product catalog. Please double check me.

https://www.zf.com/products/media/zf_race_e...204_EN_2022.pdf

Appears the 215mm clutch disc is rated at 255 Nm for typical organic friction material, pressure plate to 350 Nm. Hopefully this fits to what the engine is producing. Higher capacity available via sintered clutch lining but comes at a price and other negatives (wear, chatter, etc.) that aren’t usually acceptable for street use.

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Thanks for digging that up! Big help and interesting info.

The engine put out over 190ft-lb on the dyno so I'm just over the spec for that plate......

I wrote to a couple of places including Patrick Motor Sports but did not hear back.....

Pete

Also have an email in to Rothsport as they built the car.

A little update- I finally figure out that the PP I have is in fact a KEP stage 1 with an aluminum shoe. The cracking indicates overheating and will eventually fail leaving bare spots of aluminum- but not yet.

In searching for info over the last days I had contacted Rothsport (the builder), Patrick and Kennedy. Never heard a back format he others but Kennedy got back to me right away with the info I needed. Their Stage 1 kit is good for 230ft/lbs. After figuring out that the PP that was in the car was indeed KEP I have not worries about the spec. I have ordered a full KEP kit, flywheel and all, to replace the burnt stuff. I was told the flywheel is 15 lbs. The also deal WOSP starters so I grabbed one of those to replace the questionable IMI unit. The IMI's teeth were not looking good. Lead time 3 weeks max on the kit - then shipping to Japan so a month+ until it’s in my hands.

Well- this is the best season for the 914 so I’m not leaving the car lame on the lift. Got up early and put it all back together with all the used stuff thinking this would be a good way to see if the problem was in fact just the throw out lever bottoming out on the case.

Printed up this seal tool because why not?
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Seriously it takes so little time to measure and draw this and it prints overnight- like a little present in the morning. Went with the Elring seal dry with a smear of engine oil on the inner lip and popped it right in with a mallet. The tool centers on the crankshaft and puts the seal flush with the case.


+ 2 washers under the ball pivot. There was already one washer in there so only about 8mm of threads left and the threads are not in the greatest shape so a touch of med loctite. I used a sealing washer against the case:

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What is up with 11mm nuts on the clutch cable anyway???

First drive- didn't even make it out of the driveway before R and 1st started to grind at a stop. Adjusted the cable again and found a little more room at the pedal stop and took a drive to the gas station. I -just- has play at the pedal so the clutch is not dragging but I still have to use the full pedal travel to fully release the clutch. There is no wiggle room so something is still weird..... We'll see what happens when the new KEP stuff shows up.

For now its time get the car out for some exercise. Early tomorrow morning 3.5 hours of this:


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Glad you’re out driving while waiting on parts.

So with the added washer under the ball stud, are you still running out of travel on the clutch fork before it interferes with the case?

Nope- at least I dont think so. I'll have to check with my remote camera but based on this I'd be very surprised. This is all the play in the lever

Full forward:
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full back:
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But even like this with 10cm of free travel on the pedal and the pedal stop maxed in the low position the engagement is still low.

Pete

hmm.

Will be very interested to see where it lands with the new parts. I agree something still not right.

Looks like you can file the washer where the clutch lever bottoms out. Maybe .060" there. Idk what that translates to in pedal travel, but it's easy to find out. I needed to do this on mine at some point.

assume youve looked at this but thought its worth checking as I've seen this on multiple boxes where the stamped steel pivot fork is no longer ... true.

That sealing washer looks very thick. If it is too thick with that and the other washer, you run into the same problem as the level loses command at the angle you get with the spacers. Similar action to the failure that Rich posted above with the messed up fork retainer.

Yeah I was eying that- but still good on clearance ATM.



Mine is nice and flat. On that note I did consider spacing behind the nylon cup and also a small spacer under the retainer so it would not bend when tightened. For now I'm sticking with the tried and true- spacer under the ball pivot.



The actual sealing washer is the same thickness as a standard washer. the seal itself protrudes but when tightened it gets pushed into the threads of the bolt. I'll let you know in a month or so if it worked.

In total I used 3 washer....

The cable has very little free play which I think is what caused the wear not eh pressure plate fingers but the engagement as I mentioned is still low. I think I'll add my eccentric bully back to the mix to get a little more throw.

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So- went for a 4 hour long blast this morning and all is working ok. LOVE LOVE LOVE this car! So glad I went to the trouble to put it back together and who knows- if this fix works I can run it for a while longer if need be.

Thanks guys!

Pete

Just an small update- the KEP stuff has arrived so I thought I would post up some pics and weights.

As stated before I put the questionable stuff back in and have been running it like that. I removed the clutch pedal stop entirely and have had no issues with grinding etc. Situation is stable and reliable. But the pickup point is still low and with almost no play in the pedal i.e. T.O. bearing is probably riding the fingers of the pressure plate a bit. Good news is that both the pivot and rear main both seem to be holding oil.

New stuff from KEP. I thought it was stage 1 but box says stage 2- not sure of the difference.

Flywheel weighs in at 5.6kg/12.4lbs. Doesn't seem super light to me and I'm not sure of the original flywheel weight. Probably a good balance for a street car with the 2.7 rs spec cams.


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Aluminum shoe (or foot?) PP. Steel coated friction surface. 3.1kg/6.8lbs.

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KEP used to deal the Hi-torque starter but has dropped them and now deals WOSP.
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So It will be a while before I dig back into it all seeing as in its all working well at the moment. I will drop the motor this winter for dyno tuning and to get some paint work done at the same time. I'll check the condition of the current stuff and see if its gotten any worse. My guess is that it's fine as I'm sure there is no slippage.

Best!

Pete

All those parts are way too clean

Yep! the whole car was way too clean when I got it- haha. you could literally eat off the bottom of it. Doug is probably avoiding all of my posts cause its getting dirty fast.