I was just absorbing what everyone else was saying regarding this problem until I watched the 8 second video.

I wasn't planning on posting at all...

The noise in the vid changed it for me.

Usually, noises are muted via video and most times it's difficult to even hear what the poster is complaining of...

He WASN"T complaining of hideous noises!

Maybe the exact opposite happened in his video and the noises were amplified.

It could be possible.

I may be wrong, I've been wrong before.

Doesn't happen often...

To my ears that video sounds like "the Grim Reaper is knocking on the front door"
and I would not fire that again until I better understood where the noise was coming from.
That noise "deadlines" that for starting in my book.

Compression test and valve train inspection would be first on my list.
These only cost time (maybe VC gaskets) and if a problem is found will save hours of head scratching from frustrating diagnostic results.

I am in perfect agreement regarding the use of an inductive timing light and a dwell meter early on. I just don't think the problem merely ignition related at this point.
Hell yes! I would put both to work during the diagnosis, but I would start with a comp test first on this one.

Possible noise makers: foreign object in cylinder, broken valve spring, rocker arm looseness, miss wired plugs, loose tin or other items bolted to engine.
Loose balancer/hub, loose flywheel/clutch bolts.

The first four could have happened during the ignition work.

These are 50 years old...

914 teener brought up another biggie that I would research early on.
Is the distributor correct of the engine/D-jet FI?
He thinks it's wrong.
I'd bet he is correct!

I'd still do the comp test, valve train inspection before anything else.

Edit: The saddest thing is that it would taken me less time to do the diag than it has taken to post suggestions....

OK, the result is in: I didn't want to tweak cgng anymore, so I started to remove the valve cover. Then, I thought I'd check more comments first and saw a few saying, compression test first, which makes sense since I was thinking a broken valve. All were in the 85 to 105 range, (cold engine, battery not at full), except one. #3 was 0 PSI compression. I removed the valve cover on that side and found a broken spring. I'm hoping the valves not bent but it probably is since the piston was closing it. If it's not bent, I heard you can pressurize the cylinder with air to hold the valve closed to install the spring and retainer. I've rebuilt air cooled 911 engines before but never too deep into a 914. It seems like you can remove the heads without taking the engine out of the chassis. I was planning on changing some leaky pushrod tube seals, so I guess, now is the time.
I want to thank all the commentors with mountains of tips and places to look and comments that showed a lot of research, thinking and knowledge. This started out to be a simple timing issue and went sideways in a hurry, making diagnosing more difficult. Tomorrow, (maybe) I'll start removing exhaust and clearing the way. I'm 65 and it's hard to get up off the garage floor so not looking forward to it.
Thanks again, Bob

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Well, thank goodness you found it and it isn't something really terrible. If I were you I would pull it. Easy and if that spring broke, I wouldn't be trusting the others. I replaced all of mine last summer (along with some other bits) and it was cheap and easy. These type 4s really are the easiest things to work on. Outside the car.

You can check that valve via TDC compression on that cylinder and holding the valve closed by hand as a helper connects air pressure to the compression tester tube (with check valve removed) and if the valve is concentric the pressure will force it closed better than you can hold it closed. You won't hear hissing through the intake.

If it's bent/damaged, you will have audible flow through the intake.

I agree with emerygt350...

Even if the valve is straight, I'd do all the springs and I'd remove the engine.

Out of the car, T4s are GRAVY to work on...

Important tip. If the rocker arms are off and the valves are not part of the equation, you don't have to worry about which TDC you are at.

You really don't have to worry about TDC at all. Off TDC the air pressure will rapidly push the piston to BDC and as the valves aren't involved you can do "leak down" test at the bottom as well.
It's best to get the piston either dead ass on TDC or close to BDC and add the air pressure slowly as just hooking up 100psi to a piston 10% down the bore will SLAM it BDC with violence. You CAN bend/break stuff this way.

Every single engine I build is tested for leak down at both TDC and BDC before the valve operation is added in.
Ring sealing is equally important at both ends of the travel...
I test this immediately after cylinder head installation before I put a bunch of other stuff together.

Not sure where you are at but if you are close by and you decide to pull the engine to work on it I'd be happy to lend you my Tangerine Racing engine lift plate. I'm in Richmond. I also travel to Berkeley and San Francisco on a regular basis. PM me if you want to borrow it.

Well that escalated quickly

Clearly was more to the story than just the inaccessibility of the dizzy hold down.

Agree with others. Pull engine - it makes zero sense to try to do major engine work with the engine in the chassis.

+1

Yes, pull the motor and have someone fix it right.

Very happy for you that, at least, you've found the main problem.

"Car ran great other than idle issue. Smooth and snappy acceleration." Clearly, not the case.

It probably ran that way till the spring broke. Perhaps there was a misfire that put extra strain on the valve spring.

A broken or cracking valve spring can certainly cause a misfire but a misfire will not break a valve spring.

If I was pulling a 914 engine out I'd inspect before making any plans

Everything off the short block.
Inspect everything.
Make plans/set desires.
Ask questions of other members.

I know little about D-jet. This is why I didn't post until the video.
I was LEARNING...
When I heard the Reaper, I thought I SHOULD BITCH!

I'd research the folks on here that are D-jet Gurus...
I'd want to know what can realistically be run with D-jet.
I believe I've seen snippets that say something like 150+ has already been accomplished.

150hp 914 would be a freaking Hoot!

There's probably an easier to hit target...

One build that I might try would be KB stroker flat tops on long H-beams,
Quench BELOW .040 maybe .035.
Biggest cam and compression the Gurus on here suggest.
I'd cheat compression high as I believe the quench above will allow it.
Appropriate valve train upgrades.
Mild port/chamber work. "profiling" is what I call it, not making big changes, port matching intake/exhaust)
SSI exhaust.
Ceramics on crown, chamber and exhaust port.
Appropriate gauges: WBO2 - knock - CHT.
15-30% improvements over stock power and much quicker to accelerate would be my expectations.
The pistons and rods DROP almost 4 lbs of weight this way!



Edit: the initial beastie that originally started this post I'd TRASH (maybe saving it for NO) and replace with a 123 set up for D-jet. The Bluetooth one...

Yeah, now that I think about it I don't see how that would work either.

Yes, after I posted yesterday, I started thinking. I should pull the lump out. Then did a little research. I'd feel more comfortable when it's finally back together that I did it the right way and looked over anything suspect. fiacra, wow, that's very nice of you. I do have a low profile, extended reach floor jack so I should be OK. You're not too far, I'm up in Fairfield.
When I was younger, this would be ok. Now, old knees, old back and tired arms so it may take a while to finish all this. technicalninja, interesting knowledge on pressurizing the cylinder. I would think it would need huge air to push the piston down, turn the crank and components. I'd love to have 150hp in a 914 but most of what you talked about was over my head. All the 911 rebuilds I've done were from stock to stock. Easy stuff.
So, I started the disassembly today. Got must of the underneath stuff undone. I hope to get all disconnected by Tuesday when a friend will stop by to help drop the motor. My younger years, once a 911 was jacked up with oil out, I could have it out in around 1 hour. Maybe 2 if I keep having the wrong tools under the car with me.
Thanks again for all your comments and advice. Much appreciated. Bob

You have to be damn careful doing leak downs and make SURE the wrench/breaker bar you are turning the engine over with is NOT on the front crank pully when you apply air.

If it is and you're not at PERFECT TDC it will throw the tool, with a VENGANCE, across the shop.

"Tomahawk" is a good description of how it flies...

Yep, I've done that before, thankfully it didn't hit anything important!

Buy new shifter bushings.
Check clutch and accel cables…easier to replace now.
Two new front rubber motor mounts.
New rear main seal
New gear oil
Check cv joints
New muffler gaskets at engine and at muffler joints
New valve cover gaskets
New push rod tube seals
New oil cooler seals
Dizzy and oil temp oring and washer

As far as getting the spring on….go order the proper clamp, remove the head and do it properly so you can look inside.

Remove the heat exchangers and muffler now, before dropping the engine.
It’s way easier.

And that tangerine racing engine lift plate makes everything better, I would borrow it if you can.

Djet needs then engine to be near stock to run. Djet cam. Even just changing the displacement from 94 to 96mm needs a modified sensor (which can be bought from Tangerine). Everything needs to be at or near stock, including cam profile and compression for Djet to work right. Its best not to think of Djet as a tune-able system, though you can. But, there are good reasons why 2056 guys running Djet are happy with 120hp. Go beyond that, and you are requiring carbs or modern EFI.

My old 2056 was a bit more then 120 - but I was slightly more compression, Microsquirt, and a different cam.

Zach

I stand corrected!
See, I really am not proficient with D-jet!
Stay wimpy, it's safer!

I too am a HUGE believer in modern digital FI!
I haven't worked with analog shit in decades...
It definitely is a step BACKWARDS!
Now, J-jet and K-jet I have lots of experience with.
Still like the new junk better!

I have the Tangerine lift plate and I work in Sacramento. I would be happy to meet you in Sac if I’m closest.

Ask me how I know Zach speaks the truth!

Another big thanks to Eric. I've been working on the car the last few days, couple hours each day and got the engine out. A big floor jack and a Porsche loving friend made it very easy. Maybe 2 hours of disconnecting things and maybe one + hours to do the final drop. r_towle - Lots of great tips. Things to think about. The car only has about 40 miles on it since the resto job. It kept getting put aside for other projects. I was buying auction cars with damage and doing repairs to flip. So, many years have gone buy but many things are still new, like shift bushings, exhaust gaskets. CV joints still look like new grease, etc... I do have a valve spring compressor that has worked on 911 heads.
VaccaRabite - Wow, getting complicated. I'd love to have that kinda HP in this little tike but as one poster said, "stay wimpy". I have a couple other "Godzilla" cars. BTW - you must know Dominic.
I'd be interested to see a tool fly across the landscape just from compression. As long as it didn't hit a car, (or person). Thanks for the additional input on the top end rebuild. Bob

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