Since I've had my car (2020), it's always had a tendency to go from first straight up to reverse when shifting. Especially when cold. I've done all bushings from the firewall back, but I still have to be very careful when shifting from first to second. Shift from first requires a push out of first to let the shifter try to center, then carefully go up to second.

I haven't made any improvements to the shifter at the cabin. Are there similar bushings or a "centering spring" or something under the shifter than can be changed? All the focus seems to be on the firewall back, but I wondered if there is anything to prevent my reverse kiss tendencies at the shifter instead (besides the shiftee - me).

Thanks.

How many miles are on the car? There's a spring loaded mechanism below the stick that "prevents" this. This may be worn out.

There is supposed to be a spring that produces first-reverse lockout. With that said, after driving a more standard pattern car I worry a lot about reving the motor and then when the light turns green speeding gracefully into the honking car behind me. Perhaps the backup lights provide a brief warning.

"How many miles are on the car?"

All of them? Since the firewall and back bushings were super toast when I did them, I assume the shifter mechanics are original as well. Will look into the spring.

Thanks!

A thread for some general info on the springs:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=254412

Have you tried adjusting the shifter? If it is currently set where you do not need to push what is called the "stop plate" (mentioned by the others, #2 in diagram) by a lot to get in first gear, then it may be too easy to get into reverse too?

#2, 901.424.017.00 could be worn out. This spring loaded part can wear out over time, especially if there is no lubrication. There could also be something malfunctioning with the springs too. Sometimes if the stop plate is worn out, the shifter lever is also worn out where it contacts the plate.

You may want to investigate in there and assess the condition, especially if you have taken care of all the other bushings, time to complete the job.

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Item #2 must be inspected for wear at the shift lever connection point along with the lever itself. The linkage should jump out of the 1st/R plane. If not done, presume EVERY bushing in the linkage needs replacement. Repeated grinding will more than likely result in an expensive repair and excessive down time. Shifter removal and inspection is a simple task.

Perfect. Thanks for the information. I'll dig in.

There are 2 springs and 2 small rods, #s 3 and 4 that support the detent plate. If the plate is worn replacements are available. There are 4 number 5s (circlips) that keep the small rods in place. The springs also get gunked up limiting compression. Getting the rods and springs back in place can be a small problem.

Weltmeister used to sell a kit to double the springs. I never hit reverse again after that upgrade. But since then I installed a Rennshift in both of my cars. You can adjust the spring tension to your liking.

If #2 is spent and the underside of the shifter is loaded with gunk, adding extra springs is not going to solve the grinding problem. Increasing the force required to get into 1/R simply grinds more on the contact point. Odds are parts are worn and the bottom side of the shifter and springs are a greasy gritty mess. Adding additional and stiffer springs is not the solution.

Yup, springs missing or broken. And what fun installing new ones. At least two beers.

R&R springs? Simple. A pair of vice grips and a putty knife.

I can show you what I did for that reason and also coming quickly from higher gears to second.
@burlybryan

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Right on!!!

Finally got around to pulling the shifter. Springs intact and someone has replaced the lock out plate in the past, but I think I found my problem. Can I weld fill this wear on the shifter shaft or should I look for a good used or new one?

Weld it.

Figured this out. See next...

Welded and reinstalled. Having a blast trying to re-find the gears.

Found these threads from dr evil and Chris.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...91028&st=20

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=188120

Got the gears back by twisting on the rod in the tunnel (Chris's method), but need to fine tune. Not going directly into reverse anymore, but still nicking it when going to second sometimes.

Seems from the threads that this requires some very particular fine tuning.

Mark the splined shaft for depth and spline position.
Keep the current depth and rotate one spline either clockwise or CCW.
Drive it.
Better ? or worse ? if better go one more spline. IF worse go two splines in the opposite direction.
You'll know when it is getting better.

My shifter works quite well but if I get real aggressive shifting from 1st to 2nd I sometimes nick reverse.

That came with time. Muscle memory will help but all it has is that plate. That was why I added springs. When I come out of first, I’m hoping that plate will snap over quick enough to keep me out of reverse. 4th to 2nd was another when shifting quick. Again hoping that plate will be firm enough to keep me out most of the time.

The shift lever should ‘jump’ in to the 2/3 part of the pattern and the detent plate acts as a guide for 2nd. No banging gears. That’s for Cameros and mustangs. Get rolling in first, go to 2nd and nail it if that’s what you want. Somewhat of a convoluted system.

I've got nothing helpful to add to this thread, other than a bit of humor from the sales literature for the 914. "Shifting is fun, too, with our quick and precise 5-speed gearbox."

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Although I think mine shifts really nicely, I would never use the word quick. And probably not precise. Whenever I use to catch reverse on my way to 2nd it was because the cone screw was coming loose. New firewall bushing and some loctite fixed that.

That was truly a laughing out loud article. I can attest to the fact that MG and Triumph competitors had no such sloppiness. The reverse lights at least warn the followers at the green light of the sudden and remarkable 0-20 mph times produced by a well handled 914.

When you adjust the rod, have the shifter in 2/3rd gear and resting on the spring plate. That will assure that when you tighten everything up, the spring plate will guide your shifter to the right location without grinding. When I adjust 914 boxes, then never grind unless the person is fighting the spring plate. Literally, you can shift with one/two fingers pushing forward from 1st and it will self select 2nd. You just input forward pressure.

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When you adjust the rod, have the shifter in 2/3rd gear and resting on the spring plate. That will assure that when you tighten everything up, the spring plate will guide your shifter to the right location without grinding. When I adjust 914 boxes, then never grind unless the person is fighting the spring plate. Literally, you can shift with one/two fingers pushing forward from 1st and it will self select 2nd. You just input forward pressure.
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Thanks to everyone for helping me understand the dynamics. I've driven with it messed up for so long I didn't understand the feel and geometry of the correct adjustment.

Dr. Evil's last comment (quoted above) was a light bulb moment. I had adjusted it too far to one side and had lost 2nd and 3rd. When readjusting with the shifter in 3rd and resting along the shift plate (vice grip on the shifter rod to keep it steady), the gears magically aligned.

It also took a while to understand how the shifter plate works for the gear alignments and you have to set aside the perceived "H" pattern because when in 1st, you're already set up to align with second. Now, when I push up from first it goes smoothly straight into second (like Dr. Evil describes). Not even a hint of nicking reverse. 4th and 5th are there too. I may still massage it a tiny bit, but this is like night and day over the worn and misaligned position it used to be in.

With 36 splines, a movement of one spline is 10 degrees.
Most of the time, the amount of rotation required to correct a misalignment is only a degree or two.
Good thing there are no splines on the ID of the mating piece.

[/quote]
With 36 splines, a movement of one spline is 10 degrees.
Most of the time, the amount of rotation required to correct a misalignment is only a degree or two.
Good thing there are no splines on the ID of the mating piece.
[/quote]

Thats what had me confused initially because I assumed both the shaft and clamp were splined. Your shift adjuster is the shit and I may still pull the trigger on it. I'm having to relearn how to shift this car since it was wrong for so long. It's a significant effort to pull the lever over to drop into first, but that could be the new stiff springs and no longer worn plate and shaft. 2nd/3rd and 4th/5th currently feel a little close together.