QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Dec 29 2005, 09:34 PM)

Have you double checked that the injector groups are correct? (could #3 & #4 or #1 & #2 be swapped) I recall that two of them had tan boots and the other two had black boots, but I don't recall which ones went where. The other thing that I keep warning about is air leaks. You must get that thing sealed up tight or it will not run right. (Including the valve covers) You asked about the fuel pressure regulator earlier. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

on the L-jet, all 4 injectors should fire at the same time so it shouldn't be a problem if not in "pairs" like a D-Jet

QUOTE

on the L-jet, all 4 injectors should fire at the same time so it shouldn't be a problem if not in "pairs" like a D-Jet

mmmmkay. It was just a thought....

I am serious about those air leaks though.

QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Dec 29 2005, 08:34 PM)

Have you double checked that the injector groups are correct? (could #3 & #4 or #1 & #2 be swapped) I recall that two of them had tan boots and the other two had black boots, but I don't recall which ones went where. The other thing that I keep warning about is air leaks. You must get that thing sealed up tight or it will not run right. (Including the valve covers) You asked about the fuel pressure regulator earlier. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

The "injector groups" are completely irrelevant on L-Jet. It's not sequential or even semi-sequential (like D-Jet). There's no relationship between the injector events and the valve events. There can't be, since the system has no way of knowing which valve event is which.

I'd say a vacuum leak is most likely. Lean usually causes a rough idle. Way rich will usually idle just fine until black smoke starts to come out the exhaust. 100% of the air going into the engine has to go through the AFM, or L-Jet doesn't work. Check to see if all of the hose fittings on the plenum either have a hose on them that leads somewhere, or are sealed off. Make sure the vac hoses actually lead somewhere sensible.

my plan is to block off ALL vac connections until the engine runs good, and then i can isolate vac leaks to a particular area and go from there.

b

its running and idling now. while i fix vaccuum leaks, can somebody tell me how to diagnose alternator problems....i think i need a new alternator.

my mom's gonna kill me.

b

with the car running, put the volt meter on the battery and see what its giving the battery.

With the car off, see what the battery reads...

With all the cranking that you are doing, you may need a new battery...

When you crank a battery to much, you melts the lead inside...it causes a short.

check the voltage with the motor at idle and rev it up to 2500 and see if there is a change...
There should be a slight change.

If your battery reads below 12v after a nice long 1 hour drive...it should be replaced...

If you read less than 12.8 volts when running, you need to replace the alternator or voltage regulator...

The regulators tend to just die...period...
The alternator can and does wear out over time and give off less than optimum voltage...

Rich

the alternator light flickers from glowing red to dim red to off at random times.

b

myabe i should actually start driving it?

b

battery could be beat up a bit and low on water...
use distilled water...top it off and go for a drive.

check with a volt meter...
car off
car idling
car revving at 2500

report results.

Rich

off-12.50V
idle-12.64V
2500-12.5V

shit.

i remembered 14V was gud.

so is it the VR or the alternator?

b

uh make that 12.2V at idle now.

b

edit: and 12.4V off now.

worked out the kinks....

my sub-par alternator was made better (not completly solved) by wiring repairs....it works well enough though.

i just need to start plumbing some lines such as the breather, etc.....



b