Does anyone have a good reference on how to set up valve train geometry specifically on the type IV? I think there's a book out on building performance VW engines, is it any good?

I'm still an engine rebuilding newbie, so be nice.

Jake,

switch to decaf my man, LOL


seriously, thanks for the hands on info, I was told by Joe Schubeck not to float the valves when I spoke to him on the phone before buying my lifters from LN Engineering.....

Yeah..... floating valves isn't a good thing at any time, no matter what kind of lifters that you have.

The cam I want to set you up with has such slow ramps that floating them is something that would require pure evil intention to do.

I just re-read the entire thread... Again. I am now going the ceramic lifter route.

Thanks for NUTHIN', guys

"pure evil"???

about shear stupidity??? yea, I'll be carefull

Hey Jake,

with that cam, would I lose anything hp or driving wise if a set of dual throttle bodies with EFI accidently appeared on my engine instead of the stock 2.0 intake plenum??

What is the advantage of the oversized lifters compared to the direct replacement lifters ?

Charles, does LN have a payment plan or a lay-away plan ?

Seriously...

You get the lifter bores bored out for the oversize lifters. So now you have a nice new lifter bore that is round and free of defects.

Layaway. That's pretty funny, considering paypal had a new feature to finance big purchases appear in the merchant tools today. I was just wondering do they offer financing insurance, incase the person falls off the face of the earth? I am thinking of looking into financing purchases with a local bank for customers, but that is highly speculative.

I think we maybe need to get a drop-in group buy going for US customers. That will let me get the quantity up, so I can afford to actually do a group buy on them.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

You're gonna be a dead man

yeah...my rockers are pretty well worn. ill check the side play next time its on stands...thanks for the heads up!

i didnt know where to find new rockers/shafts when i built my engine. still dont! where can i pick up a set next time, and are all the rockers the same (ie 1.7, 1.8, 2.0)

I'm in for a "Direct" replacement group buy thing... *IF*...

the machine-in lifters won't benefit my engine-in-the-works (see specifics below). My case IS apart. And have my cam/lifters all ready, but they are the perfect canidates for ... (booming voice) ... "THE LIFTER CAM ISSUE".

Here are my projected spec's:

94mm Flat tops (already cut for valves)
78mm CW Demello Crank
H-Beam Rods (lightened-clearanced whatever)
86 Web Cam/solid lifters
40mm IDF's
HD Springs
Stock Valves
Swivel Head Adjusters

Not to mention my heads, remember ?? Everyone is/was scared of them The dreaded seat staking...

is buying a set up from cb performance an option. no web cams. what are the chances that THEIR lifters will be compatible with THEIR cams.

kevin

That combo needs some serious refiguring in my opinion...

where are you getting a 24pinned H Beam rod? bushing the piston? Be ready for serious clearance issues with those pistons if you use a stock length rod.

There are many better cams for the combo as well, the 86 does not like CR at all, and has lazy ramps. its my stock replacement in 100% stock engines otherwise.

I thought I was lacking in the cam department Guess I was thinking the ceramic lifters might take up the slack...

The rods are bushed to 22... 5.5" (IIRC). Pistons have ALREADY been clearanced for up to 78 stroke. Oh- I have Berg cylinder shims, too.

My initial question was... "What is the benefit of a larger lifter ?"

Dave, Jake is talking about your pistons. If they are made for a stock T4 rod then they have a 24mm pin. Your chevy (journal) rods have a 22mm piston pin. you will need different pistons.

Lifters don't add anything lift wise, the cam and rockers do that. The machine-in lifters are a hair bigger around, machining the bore corrects 30yrs of wear in the lifter bores. You can now get drop-in ceramic lifters.

You might want a tad bigger cam.

I know. My pistons are Type 1, with 22mm pins. Guess I should have said that .

So the bigger bore, machine-in ceramic lifters WON'T benefit my engine MORE than the drop-ins ? My case has already been align bored, so maybe the lifter bores need some attention. Now's the time to do it...



Yea, I figured . What cam works best with the ceramic lifters ?

Sorry to dig up a decade old thread, but does anyone know if there was any resolution to this issue? I can’t really seem to find any recent discussion of why these lifters were failing. Are the WEB lifters that are currently on the market reliable?

General concensus these days was that a lot of it had to do with the oils changing due to new smog regulations.

Nowadays we run "High Zinc" oil. Make sure it is specified to have high zinc and phosphorus. For use with flat tappet cams is what you are looking for.

Joe Gibbs makes an oil specifically for use in air cooled motors.

I found some ceramic lifters. ($500) Works great and apparently unobtainable now.

Saw that Hemmings Motor News is making special oil...

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/09...r-classic-cars/

I have webcams and what appear to be twopart lifters. I feel ok, if incontinent.

lots of high zddp oils coming out because of this. Lucas, brad penn, valvoline. look on summit racing.com

Yep...

This...


Led to this after several generations of development in my engines.



And its not just Zinc. Attend one of the lubrication Seminars hosted by Lake Speed of Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils to learn how we developed these oils and how the critical balance of anti-wear and detergency packages is is so critical. Lake is a Certified Lubrication Specialist and Tribologist. His seminars are NOT infomercials, in fact he hardly talks about Gibbs products unless the attendees ask him.

Joe Gibbs products are formulated by Lubrizol; one of only 4 companies in the world that makes additive packages for oils. Interestingly enough, ZDDP was invented by Lubrizol. No one knows it better and every single piece of military equipment in the US Armed Forces is filled with Lubrizol oils, in fact ZDDP was invented to kill engine wear in Sherman Tank engines in WWII.

So I will be ok as long as I use joe Gibbs oil? That is good to know because I have new set of lifters and I was getting concerned. I will check out Summit.

Oil isn't magical. If you have mismatched components or low quality components with improper profiles, improper spring pressure or etc you will have problems no matter what oil is used.

We have not had a single camshaft issue since 2005, before that we had gone 5 years with zero issues. that single issue that we had was in my own engine!
Thats turnkeys and component kit sales alike and the numbers are in the thousands for sales.

A lot of it is luck. Good oil at least gives you a fighting chance. Bad oil gives you a death wish.