worked for me. not too slow - well then again I'm used to slow

Actually, the host service sped it up to where it was when the battery was charged Go figure. It looks good to me too. I must admit that our mechanisms are a bit of a PITA. My 75 Benz would probably move too quick with these kits....I am gonna find out eventually on that one.

That is so cool Mike.

I want one...

PM me Allan. I told you I have one. And you know me, it will be low $$ cause I love the teeners and want them to be happy

Looks good. Billy Joel fan?

Very nice Mike. what gauge wire did you run out to the motors ?

Jim, 18AWG.

Billy Joel is OK by me, but it was all that was on the radio. Radio here SUCKS!

How does it look with the door panels on?

Mine will be different as I have them completely covered. I also shimmed the mechanism like Scott suggested to make the profile as low as possible. Fo rme you will not be ablt to tell they are there. If you want to take the more common way out, then the kit comes with cups to install over the mechanism that clean up the hole where the handle would attach. I am in the process of wiring in my power mirrors so I havent mounted the panels yet. I'll see about taking a few pics in a couple of days time providing.

I'd like to have it look smooth with the switches in a center console.

For smooth you will have to recover your door panels to hide the hole where the gear pushed through for the handle. No kit will make it absoleutly smooth with out extra work. If you recover your panels then all you have to do is not fill in the hole in the back part, shim the gear mechanism and you will be golden. Markydoo's looks like this. I have my switches in the center console. I like it that way, but I do have switch pods for anyone wanting to mount the switches in the door.

If you notice the door metal you will see it has its own protrusions. The installed kit does not exceed the doors natural set up by more thatn a couple of 1/32".

I get it, you need pics

Great job

Only 15 years ago I asked about these kits and people said that it couldn't be done.

ps. Now you need to work on some power door locks.

Power door locks are cheap and easy. I am not gonna do these on this car as I do not usually unlock my doors while I am driving (but do wish to opperate my windows). If I didn't have the power mirrors and windows I would probably do it, but I have too many wires

Nice video - now I want one.

Great job Dr.


You need to see me at Hershey on these - I might have some connections we could use.


Again - Nice!


M

Engman,
Thanks for the complement. I am looking for suppliers currently, any leads would be greatly appreciated. I would like to sell a whole kit for no more than $100 including switches, instructions, mounting hardware, and most of the wiring. Some of the kits out there are crazy expensive with the switches costing upwards of $30 alone. The cost will depend on how much I can get them for and what type. If it is gonna be SPAL then it will be $100 because they are not the least expensive. If it is gonna be the brand and type I already have then it will be around $75 I hope. Time will tell.
I'll definetly see you at Hershey

Are you going to start selling these? And if so, how much?
(Never mind, too slow to the submit button)

How long till you start selling them?

QUOTE (Grimstead @ Apr 6 2006, 11:28 AM)

Are you going to start selling these? And if so, how much? (Never mind, too slow to the submit button) How long till you start selling them?

Who knows when I will be able to start. I have my feelers out to some vendors. I have sold the other kit that I currently have. Mainly it is price that I am working on. I wont sell it if you can get it for the same price somewhere else. The instructions will remain here with me answering questions for free. I will eventually post some wiring diagrams as well so the DIYers can install any kit they want and do not have to go to me.

Oh ya, I may also sell a new fuse block kit to those customers that wish to have an extra designated position for the windows. I'll have to see. I am not gonna sell the blocks separate as there are already two vendors doing them and they are good quality at an affordable price.

.......stay tuned for more innovations!

Just to clarify - The Dr. is your man - I may have a lead for him on the kit - but he is the guy.

M

Alright folks,
I have a line on 4 kits for $70+ shipping. Is this a resonable price for ya'll? If anyone wants to order one of these I will take the first 4 emails and put the rest on a list if I can get more.

I am looking for feed back as to what price is best and how many people are interested.

3 left

2 left

ONE LEFT

PM sent!

I got ya, man. Yer #3.


Still one left for a lucky person

I am suprised at how fast these sold

I hope to sell the next one by tomarrow when the East coast awakens from its slumber. I am actually still working the guy to see if I can get a better deal. I would like to end up with a final price shipped for $75...lets see.

Now watch the dancing monkey

pm sent

No deal on getting a lower price from the guy. He is kinda thick in the head..too bad his prices are the lowest. I got four, though

I still have one left!!!!!!!!


I have J.D., Scott, Jim


Someone emailed me, PMed me, and IMed me and screwed up my count

Any takers

Kits are on order!

I still have ONE left if someone wants it.

QUOTE (Dr Evil @ Apr 7 2006, 09:36 AM)

Kits are on order! I still have ONE left if someone wants it.

I'll take it Mike. I'll send PM.

And then there were none..... I am not to confident that I will be getting any more inthe near future either sooo youguys can consider your selves lucky I will be posting wiring and stuff as time permits.

OK now i NEED one too!!!! DOC i need a fix

Sorry Dude,
I don't know when/if I will get any more. I will be keeping an eye out, though. I kinda dont want to deal with the guy that I bought these from. He is a bit of a jerk. These first 4 were to test market. If I get enough interest I will actively seek out more kits with the full intention of keeping the cost low.

All of the orders shipped yesterday (except for the ones that are being picked up).

FYI, the video that I took WAS with a basically dead battery. I charged it yesterday and it was almost empty. Just food for thought.

Alrighty, here are the wiring instructions in free hand. The switch does not care if you hook it up one way or another since it is symetrical Any questions, just post here and I will get to them.

Mike,

Is the diagram pretty much the same as the wiring and connectors are already layed out. Just looked at the wiring briefly today, and it seemed pretty straight forward.

Yup, the diagram is based on if you want ot run two switches instead of the three. Color of wire is largely unimportant, location on the switch is.

I PMed you a response also, but please do aks as many questions as you may have here so all can benefit.

Mike,

Installed the switches today, found some really nice holders at West Marine. Pic..

Check this site out: http://www.julianos.com/ they have some nice swithch plates and have a look at the e-brake set up they sell....

I am also interested, is there a brand name?

I already tosssed the boxes--Cole Hersee is the brand name. They are sold as inner and outer units. They lock together. I bought two ends and locked them together. They have inside singles, 2's and 3's. Very nice set up. All the West Marine stores must carry them; I have seen them in 2 stores. If you need more info, their is a West MArine down the street from me

Very clean! Well Done!!

There isn't much room under the center pad. I had to ditch the white plastic connectors nthat plug into the bottom of each switch and use small 90 degree female connectors. These are pretty sweetl. Soldered to the 90's and then covered the connectors with liquid connector goop. This stuff acts like the plastic covers and will keep the 90's from touching one another. Made a short loom for the two sides, ground, and power that terminates just short of the panel with the gauges for quick disconnect. Used the plastic six wire connectors that came with the package.

I knew that you would do them right.

Just wait until next weekend when I take some pictures of my glorious set up.

My drivers side is a bit bound up and I need to reposition the motor so it is less of an angle on the drive line. The passenger side is perfect. Our doors are a real PITA to get clean and lubed and set right. I bet your car will be the best.

I havn't installed the motors yet; starting at the switches and working outward. You know I have speakers mounted behind the door panels; do you think I will be able to install anyway ? or will I have to get creative ?

And, heard you say you are working on a small auxillary fuse pane.. I'm in real need of one.

As for a small aux panel, I have pretty much given up on the idea as I have seen, touched, coveted, and admired Engman's kit and would not be able to make anything that would do what his kit did not already do. And the price is rediculously low (this is not a paid endorsement, but it could be )
I would contact him about makbe getting one of his 5 gang fuse panels in the raw so you can install it somewhere. He could probably hook you up with a set up worthy of the polished nature of your car.

Now that you have the motor sets you can decide how you want to install them. It was hard for me to do (especially alone). There are several options, but the main idea is to not bend the cable too much. The straighter the cable, the more tourque and the better the operation. All I could think of was that you may need to notch your door all the way across to place the cable track in it, but this may be prohibitive. You may be able to get away with it behind the speaker. Gonna need pics to help brain storm.

I know Scott Kline has a lot of experience with doing kits like this. You should shoot him a PM and see if he can help you out with the install. You are lucky because he lives near you.

Anyone do the full install after Dr. Evils oiginal post ? I'm still at the "install the motor stage".Was wondering if anyone discovered a way to install the motor with speakers still in the door ? Probably not possible, but wanted to check.

Hey Jim,
Taking a break from cardio at teh moment and was thinking that maybe you could mount a bracket in the door that puts the motor at a slight angle, but next to the speaker. Hard to describe, but the main idea is you want to maintain the largest radius possible. If you put the bracket pointing into the door and make it so it sits right next to the speaker you should have enough room for both. Should, but I havent looked at mine in a while and I may be off in my mental calculations.

Back to the grind...

Interesting idea. WIll I need to attach working end to the winder shaft, wire it up and see if it works at that angle ???

That would be a good test to do. It took me a loooooong time to get the darn windows adjusted jsut right so that they worked well. So many adjustments. That and I lubed everything....maybe too much in some spots, but it works...wish the car did.

I don't suppose you are coming out to the left coast are you; I sense this project really requires the expertise of someone who has "been there". I'm not in a rush, so if you do plan a trip in the next year, I can hold it....


Hope you Med School is working out; we need some doctors with a healthy sense of humor.