Damn Brad, do you ever sleep? New heads were promised early next week. Here's the list of stuff I think I need. Add to it if I missed anything.

Intake spacers
Exhaust gaskets
push rod tube seals
Mufler gaskets

Should I replace oil cooler seals now?

Everytime I've removed the passenger side head, its been pure hell. The piece of tin next to the oil cooler just won't come off. I figured out that if you put the piston at the top of its travel, the cylinder will slide off with the head far enough to remove everything without losing the rings on the bottom.

Now I want to clean the motor thoroughly. How do keep the water out of the inside? should I wait till heads are back on?

I'll sleep when I'm dead..



I just remove the cooler. A little more work.. but its either that or bend the piece of tin out of the way.

If the oil cooler isnt leaking from the seals.. leave them.

Dont clean it until the heads are back on and the valve covers are back on.

B

How about I slip the old heads back on to do the cleaning? I have a friend who is chef and brought me a couple of cans of industiral strength oven cleaner.

You can do that (if you havent already).

The oven cleaner only works if you get the engine hot (so I hear).



B

Looks like it would require the pushrod tubes also. I'll wait till the new heads are back on, clean the shit out of it, then install all the newly painted black engine tin (did that today, looks good). Motor is not too dirty, but the trani is filthy. I used the oven cleaner on the tin and it did a great job.

Talked to Brian Thomas at Rennsport Tulsa this morning(He's more of a friend than just a p mech). He said he's had much trouble with the chinese NPR p&c's. He's had to return 5 of the 6 he has ordered. He said they are piss poor quality. He stocks all the gaskets and stuff I will need.

Yep. I dont use the NPR's. Havent used them for 8+ years or so. There is a second chinese company that has a very good product. I'll let you know how their 96's work on Monday.


B

Just so you guy's don't think I'm f#$ing off watching the 49er's whip on the Browns while waiting on my heads, here's how I spent my Sunday.


this morning:

this afternoon:

oops

sweet!

-Sweet as

Can't get the headers off the old heads. bolts came off with no prob, but the headers won't budge, I'll put a couple of jamb nuts on the studs and see if I can remove the studs without snaping them, already used plenty of pb blaster, but still hasn't moved yet.

HUm.. I typically try and remove them while the heads are still on the car. I noticed that you had them still attached in one of the pics.

Did you get them off ??


B

I tried to remove them first but they wouldn't move so I didn't want to screw anything up. Heads, or headers. I'll get them off tonight.

Your avatar looks COOL. Keep us posted on what is happening.



B

Headers are off. Took some "gentle coaxing" with a brass punch and ballpeen on the studs, but they came off ok. No damage to headers or studs.

Didn't hear from the machinist today, will call him tomorrow. No, I think I'll just drop by to say "high",
and bring him two more heads. Yeh, great excuse.

Check this out. I'm in the EXACT same position as you (accept I have to drive farther to the event).

I recieved the heads for my wifes car on Saturday after my friend Britain STOOD next to the machinst to make sure the heads got done. Britain brings them up to me.. and the machinist didnt weld/repair/tap one of the exhaust stud holes that was F-ed up. I gave up and took ANOTHER set of 2.0 heads to a machinst closer to me and BEGGED him to have them done this week so I can button her car and drive it for a few days before we leave next Tuesady night.


B

I'll bring a jack, two stands and feeler gauges. You bring the torque wrench. We'll have a head retorque and valve adjust party!!!!! Talk about 914 bonding. LOL.

Can you retorque the heads with the rockers in place? All but one bolt?

Just left the machinist shop. Heads have all the cracks welded up. He said they will be ready by Thursday afternoon

You cant retorque the heads with the rockers in place.

Which is why ARP and Racware went to a smaller nut on their custom head studs. We drilled small holes in the engine tin to access the top nuts on our race engines and used small plugs to snap into place. It works real good. The smaller nuts allow you to torque all the nuts without removing the rockers.


B

What is the procedure for retorqueing heads and when should it be done? Does it require engine and tin removal?

I think you will find most people dont retorque them. Its a pain in the ass to remove all the tin and rockers arms. In a perfect world.. we would retorque them. I torque them and let them sit overnight and hit them again the next day.


B

Ok, One more question answered.
Heads should ready Thursday. Gaskets and such should be here tomorrow. Wow, I can't believe this happening so fast. The last time this happened with my 73-1.7, it took 11 months and $2K. This board wasn't around then, but then again, neither was the internet!

Thanks, Curt

We are neck and neck. My heads should be done on Thursday also. Your 2 hours ahead of me time wise.. we will see who drives their car first !!! Luckily my wifes car is injected and it ran fine before I yanked it apart. It *should* run fine when it goes back together.


B

Mine is injected also, so I don't forsee aproblem there. I suspect yours will run before mine. You have the advantage of experience on your side. Are you replacing the cylinder to case seals? This looks like a slow process. Remove the wrist pin, or recompress the rings?

Not much progress today. Just worked on cleaning the engine bay. Waiting impatiently on heads.
Why do I hate working on cars, but love working on a 914? Adjusted "on rails" valves today. Smooth as silk.

Curt,

I feel the same way.....

No progress on my wifes car.. but I got another one running that was completely apart a few days ago. Its going to the MUSR with me also.

I dont pull the pistons from the barrels... tap the wrist pin out and slide them off the rod. Dont screw up the bushing in the small end of the conn rod. You have to do them in a certain sequence and start from a certain P+C.


B

Ok Brad, what is that sequence and which p/c do you start with?

Thanks for all the info. Keep it coming please.

Curt

Been doing a little looking and pondering while turning the motor over, and here's what I came up with. Start with #1 and 3 at tdc. this will allow the pin's to slide out toward the rear. Then rotate crank 90 degrees to allow access to 2 and 4. Am I anywhere close? Should the pins move freely after the circlip is removed, or will I have to drive it out?
How do you drive it out when it is so close to the other cylinder?

You usually have to tap them out due to oil varnish. Tap lightly! If you can brace something against the rod below the wristpin so you don't muck up anything.

Geoff

Well, the heads weren't done today, but promised for noon tomorrow. Seats and guides are in. Valves in the morning.

Gaskets are in my possesion. Ready to install new jug seals. How about that info on proper sequence? I'm ready to go.

Can't get the wrist pins out. Trying to remove # 1 to the rear. The adjoining cylinder is too close to push it. Am I on the right track?

Ha ha.. now I'm ahead. I picked mine up at 4pm and had them installed and torqued down by 5PM.

Off to Hooters now for some beer and wings. It will run tomorrow night.



B

I didn't know this was a contest.

So, where's the help? i ask questions, I get haha I'm ahead. How does that help me? Maybe you have something to prove, I just want to do the best I can fo my car.

Relax.. its not a contest. (It was supposed to motivate you not piss you off..LOL) I'm busy getting two cars ready for this event. One of them I have to drive to the event. I didnt have time to answer you correctly. I was running late and checked the BBS before I left for the dinner.

Now onto your questions.

Yes.. you nailed the sequence.

Sometimes there is a ton of oil buildup around the ends of the wrist pins. This can make it impossible to slide the wrist pin out.

The other thing you can do is heat the pistons.. then they will slide out. A small propane torch can be used to make a few passes past the piston top. Dont hang out with the flame diectly on the center of the piston.. move it around the sides and such. Then quickly.. try and pull the pin out. I use my finger inside the end of the pin. If this doesnt work.. you'll have to pull the barrels off.

Let me know is this helps... feel free to call me. I'm not in front of the computer during the day from noon until 10pm at night.


B

Sorry for my impatience/frustration. I do realize that you are a busy man like the rest of us. I have a biz to run too, so I'm trying to do this at night and on weekends.

I have plenty of motivation already. It's spelled 914!

Heat didn't work. Screwed with one pin for over three hours. Fug it! Pulled the cylinders off of one side this morning. Replaced gaskets and slid them back on. Took ten minutes. I'll do the other side after work today, and be ready for the heads.

I thought you were trailering your cars? That's a hell of a drive for a weekend get together.

I would call only if I absolutely had to, but I don't have the number

He's driving my car!

Sean, I just realized that after rereading your thread on nededing a ride from the airport. Maybe someone could bring your car to the airport?

Yea! the machinist just called to say my heads are ready. Time to rock and roll. Looks like I got a busy weekend ahead of me. Any last minute advice on the install will be greatly appreciated. I have Tom Wilson's book as a guide, but it was written a long time ago I think.

Slap them on. He who fires the engine last is a rotten egg.. LOL



B

Then I probably stink like eggs already!

Bet I can build a house full of cabinets faster than you!LOL

See.. now your getting the "jist" of my ribbing. Have fun with it.. it helps me get motivated when somebody says I cant do something or they say they can do something better..blah blah..

Your are 100% correct. I can hang cabinets and do *some* wood working that is about it.. I also know when things should be left the pros.


B

I should probably be leaving this to the pros, but I'm just too damn stubborn.

Woo Hoo, I have heads! cylinder gaskets are on and heads will go on tonight. I"ll work till I can't go any longer, then get back on it in the morning. I rise at 5am daily, so I can't work till 3am like Brad does. I'm old and need my sleep.

Damn the torpedo's, full speed ahead!

Heads are on and torqued. I made a dumb mistake that I'll bet none of you ever made before. I put the heads on and ran thru the first torque sequence when i realized I forgot the two pieces of tin that go on with the heads! Doh! Oh well, nice practice run. Take em back off and do it again. I'll retorque in the morning and continue on. So far so good. I'm ready for that cigar.

WooHoo!!! GOOD JOB!

Which pieces where you referring too ?? The bottom pieces can go on after they are torqued (did this today).

My wifes car runs nicely. I'm sure yours will also. Once I figured out I crossed the fuel lines where they enter the engine compartment.. hers fired right up without a hitch and idled high on the cold start AAR.

I wont be back online until tomorrow evening. PM Sean or Geoff Bleyseng for my cell number if you need me.


B