34's

I'd play with the airs first myself - and maybe the mains. You can change the curve by changing the mains and airs at the same time (going up or down on both). You can change the timing by some degree (and top end richness) by changing just the airs alone. I ended up with a strange combinations on a few street motors before... Typically due to more carb than motor

Several people sell replacement E-Tubes for Webers and others have had luck changing them to solve problems like this, but I'd have to see/feel it before I suggested changing from the factory default. If it's a good buck/stumble it might be in the cards...

Do you have an O2 sensor on it (even a cheap CB one)?

-Aaron

No 02 sensor....

and these were a starting point for jetting from Jake...

dont have many jets to play with....

Mains and Airs aren't too expensive... I wouldn't hesitate to increase the mains or decrease the airs (seeing as it responded well before). Maybe someone on the board has a stash of parts you can play with.

While starting points are a great help, don't hesitate to start to play - small steps. I'd go to a 140 main and see what happens... If that's not quite it, leave the 140 in and move down to a 170 air.

Again, I'd have to feel it to see. An O2 sensor would really help here - even a cheap one. I'll ask around and see if anyone has some jets you can borrow.

-Aaron

Oh... I do have jet reamers and gauges if you want to go that route too... Let me know and I'll get them to you.

Aaron.. i had 130's in there... and was falling on its face.... put the 135's in... and off it went.....

i think the mains are spot on... gut tells me just a little fat tho.....

wish i had a box of jets....

thanks for your help mang
AA

My jet gauges are only whole numbers, but you could use my reamers to try a 132.5. If you have a noticable stumble you are going lean... Maybe we could try a smaller air corrector to bring the mains in sooner.

I'll ask around...

-Aaron

I'm glad you finally got it running though

these cars are fun when they work...

Here's to longevity and high relibility <<-cokes, I dont drink...Diet too, AA likes diet coke(IIRC)

b

Aaron... you make me want to drive out to pasadena....

when are you going to be at johns?



the other AA

Hey, now that it runs and drives like a raped ape, let's drop the trans so it's on jackstands again!

Congrats on your progress Aaron.


Mine is in about the same state of tune as yours. Starts and idles really great, runs like a bat out of hell, and just does not run hot at all. I may not even need the external oil cooler I have ready to go in it.

However, it does have a stumble when you punch it, or easy pedal around 3800rpm. Haven't resolved it yet either. Thought I might mess with the accelerator pumps. Anyone know which way you turn them?

If you would like, I have some 140 mains and 60 idles I'd be glad to send you to try out. Won't cost you a thing (unless you want to keep them ).


..

hey joe!

id be interested in the 140 mains if you dont mind! mighty gracious of you....

accel pumps...

i believe CCW is more pump.... but not quite sure... i need to go play with mine...

AA

PM your mailing address and I'll get them on their way to you first thing monday.


...

John hopes to have my stuff done this week, but you know how it goes

If he does get it done I'd try and drive down Saturday - If not you are welcome here any time.

-Aaron

Hey all...

was down at johns and claytons....

after many a test drive and jet swap... it is determined that the beast has a monster cam... and pulls from 3.5k to 6500.... and wishes to go farther with the 34 vents...

problem is... low end driveability blows... cant tune out the transition flat spot, due to too low of air speed.

I need some 32 venturi's for a weber 44 IDF. i have 36's to trade..... if that will suffice...

please help

car is scary fast....

Wouldn't Diapers also be needed And I might have some 32's

richard...

that would rock...

need some 36's?

Aaron,

You might try some bigger idle jets. My car has a flat spot w/ 60's that goes away w/ 65's. I am running 34mm vents, 132 mains & 180 air on Dellorto drla 40's. My engine is a 2056 w/ 8.5:1 compression. Running a Mallory distributor with 18 degees of advance in the distributor set at 12 degrees initial.

mark...

we put 55's in and no real change... just got sloppier on take off....


i run 12 initial, 28 final.... in my mallory...

94's here and about 8.5:1..... 60's seem huge!

currently 50 idles, 175 airs, 135 mains, 50 accel, f11 emuls..... 34 vents....

AA

Sorry I just looked, their 36's

What idel jets and what emulsion tubes?

Check your Accelerator pump linkage Adjustment. when does it start to shoot?

played with that already...

they were about 3/16 of thread past the nut...
went less... made it worse (counter clockwise is less fuel right?)
went more .... didnt make it any better.. and made it bog on top a little....

come drive it.

Where you at tomorrow? I'll be heading out to perris

hey, when daveh started his engine with my carbs, the "recomendation" was start it with 45s on the idles. pull a plug and check the color. i'm going to toss a set (45) in. i'm curious to see if the idle/air mixture screws will be a bit more sensitive.

34mm vents in the 44s for the "new onion" as per jake. 2056 w/one of his cams. a tip, if everything goes to hell quickly, check the cap and rotor first thing. that's why my "hill power" dissappeared. the silver gets a engine compartment douche and it's bottom cleaned today.

k

richard.... in corona today... work till 4:30....

Dell's and Webers are different beasts. A Dell is quite happy to have a 60 idle, where the Weber will run way to rich there... Apples to oranges.

Aaron, Weber vents are still availble if you choose to go that way. I'd still like to see you richen up the mains or choke down the airs just to see what happens...

-Aaron

i can try to put some bigger mains in.... Joe offered to let me borrow some....

so you advise leaving the 50 idles in?

I'd think with a big cam and those vents you'd need the 55's, but the car will tell you...

Do realize you need to be dead nuts on in sync (I have a nice snail style sync meter you can borrow) and you must reset the idle volume screws every time you change the idle jets. Other wise you won't get a true feeling for the change.

-Aaron

right. we did that. carbs are dead nutz...

all flowing same amount of air thru the snail....

we put 55's in, and leaned it out 1/2 turn.... made it idle......

with the 50's in, idle mix screws are about 2.5 turns out...

hey aaron, you have a pic of your set up? i have ordered one of these pumps and would like to just swap out my current one that is already in the front trunk.

cheers,

scott

Let me convey my recent experience with my 912E. I just installed a 2056 which I built with Jake parts. Heads are from HAM with stock 2.0L valves and very small CC. I calculated 9.4 CR . 40MM webers with 34MM venturies. Jake said to run 130 main, 200 air and a 60 idle. The carbs had 55's in them and I drilled to what I thought was 60. I had the wrong drill and they are about 63. The engine will only idle at 1500 RPM with the 4 idle screws all the way in. It is VERY rich! I'm still using a 009 , just to get it up and running. I've ordered 55's and 60's . BTW the engine runs strong now.. oil smells like gas. Any suggestions?????? Al

i have a 71x94 2L... not a 2056.....



start your own thread or cal jake....

change the jets and the oil. start with either one, i'd do the 50s first. your bottom end response will surprize you. if you've been trying to seat the idle mix screws in too tight grooves wear in needle. used carbs should always be checked for this. also the little o-rings. they crack and turn to crap. same for the idle jet holders.

with the header, low gearing, and carbs you're not going to sneaking up on anyone aaron.

k

aaron,

perhaps i should clarify my request....

a pic of the new pump mounted in the front trunk so as to provide a visual reference for those who may wish to duplicate your set up!!!

cheers.....

So i take it Aa-Ron you are not running a Fuel regulator in your car?

kevin...

carbs are 3 years old. fully rebuilt since new.... i just got some 32's from craig downs, and wil try them out.... new o rings on all idles...

but good thinking....



LOL. that comment made my day....

I don't think he'll be sneaking. You'll just hear a roar similar to a T-Rex then a black blur fly past.

Unless you're on the freeway. Then you'll hear what sounds like a dying hippopotomus' groans as he downshifts and eagerly attempts to catch you, until he hits 5th gear and tops out at 105.

He has a stock 5th gear....

Twystd1

werd... wich is still in the powerband on the upshift to 5th

huge shout out to craig downs.. for hooking me up wth 32 vents..

ok.. wonderbox tranny is in...
header is out, to go get beadblasted and have a crack welded up....

old tranny needs a bath...

scott... here is your pump picture.....

i call this pose the "ryan seacrest" LOL


the tranny... old and new


scotty... here be your pump picture...


closer...


and the euro race header...

aaron,

thanks for the pic.

you have your car up in the same fashion i consider to be a great idea for engine removal. the concern voiced by others was the stability of the front on the ramps. any probs?

my car goes under the knife this weekend. i am asking for time for fathers day. time to do whatever the hell i want without having to worry about anything else. priceless.......

the ramps have 3" "wheel cannot roll off" bumps on them....

safer than jackstands....

and use big 6 ton jackstands under the trailing arm....


i wish i woulda filled the tranny while it was out.....

i have no pump.. nor a squirt bottle.... just 1 gal of coastal 90w....