My first car had about 10 years worth of squirrel bedding, crap, and decayed acorns in every nook and cranny, including under the engine tin. I took a 3 foot piece of plastic tubing (about 5/8 ID) and fabricated a small reducer and duct-taped the whole thing to the end of a Eureka Mighty Mite vacuum. It worked great.

Wait a minute here! Your 22 and your girlfriend/fiance (don't tell her) wants to work on this car with you? Marry her now! That's way hot!

some progress... did some cable management.. we'll see how the carpet lays over the sleeving and if i cant get it respectably "stock" then i will take it off before final reassambly.. its good protection for now at least!

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i have a questions here... see how i got some of it to shiny metal and the rest is just that smeared black residue from the tar remnants... the stripping discs AND the wire discs both just smear it... would a good degreaser type product get it off and look like shiny metal? im wondering if i need to keep sacrificing my discs or if a degreaser will cure it.

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nice cable management.....

If you are using Metal Ready and Por15, just follow their instructions. Gid rid of all the rust and tar you can, wash/clean the surface real good, then apply Metal Ready on all exposed metal. Let the the stuff sit on there for 15-30 minutes, and then wash that off with warm water. Dry it quickly (hair dryer works here) and then on goes the POR15. Follow the instructions on both containers and you'll be fine.

Based on your the last picture you posted, it still looks like you can get rid of some more rust. Remove your E-brake and get in there as much as you can too. The tar will start to coat the stripping disks. You can clean it off by running the disk on concrete to wear down the part that has the tar, or just put a new disk on. Apply some elbow grease (make sure you are wearing eye protection and a mask to keep the dust out of your lungs) and get rid of as much rust as you can.

As far as the seam sealer goes, get rid of what you need to get rid of. If it looks like there's rust under it, then keep at it. I used a chisel for some of the sealer. Usually if the sealer has rust underneath it, it will come up fairly easy.

The whole process is a PITA, but on the positive side, if you do it correctly, you will never have to do it again!

Update:

trying to figure out why the passenger door handle wont open it from the outside, but it will from the inside...

i dont really know how the mechanism functions so i dont know if something is missing or broken? doesn't feel like theres ANY resistance on the outer handle at all whereas the driver's door does...

i took some pics.. maybe you can spot something that is broken or missing?

also.. haynes manual is kinda confusing on it's removal.. what's involved?

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with handle pulled:
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It's probably the door latch cam, circled below. When you pull the exterior door handle, it pushes this plastic piece against part of the door lock mechanism. A part of it breaks off and no longer activates the mechanism.

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Auto Atlanta sells a replacement one that's allegedly made of stonger plastic. I've purchased and installed one before. You can get it here.

It looks like your door panel is already removed. To remove the exterior door handle, there is the 5mm allen bolt in your photo and another nut on the interior part of the door. It comes right out. There is a couple of rubber gaskets, one behind the nut and a curved one near the allen bolt.

Just be careful removing the old piece and installing the new one. The part of the door handle that contacts this cam is brittle.

Your car sure is looking gud.

You probably should go to restomotive's web site and check out the por 15 and metal ready and their marine clean process. It will only take a few minutes. The stuff you have thats free might be great but the application is what makes it work either great or crummy. The tar could be cleaned up with laquer thinner. The laquer thinner will evaporate very quickly if it's hot maybe we are going to get some cool weather now. Keep the tar saturated for awhile till it softens and wipe it off. Even sand blasting won't remove tar. A big grinder with a twisted cup brush is the best to clean rust and tar off. Be careful when grinding rust cure it makes a bad dust for your lungs and eyes, maybe use a small fan to blow the dust away as you clean the panels. The tough spots are where you can't get in the tight areas. You can use a small screwdriver to scrape theses areas to get rid of the loose scale. Attention to details is what makes a good job. Preparation is the key to a good job. A good guy to get to know is Mark Heard in Boerne, Tx. He has sold me some good parts and knows 914's well. He's on this forum as 914sixer. If you apply por 15 correctly you can't knock it off with a hammer. Also if you leave it on your skin or anything else it will be there a long time. It also has a very short shelf life so only buy what you will use and be sure to keep the lid groove clean or you won't get it off. Don't work out of the can, dip some out and put it in another container to dip your brush into. I use little paper cups I have for mixing resin in. They also have a cloth you can put down on perforated areas and paint the por15 over and it's like fiberglass cloth and resin. The surface must be positively clean for it to stick. Good luck with your new project. There was a chalon for sale on craigslist somewhere around Shertz is your's it?
I am starting a 914 with a suby motor and tranny with AA steel flares and such as soon as I can get a few other projects out of the way. I live outside of Waco, TX.

Charlie

i believe this stuff i have is called Re-Vive

mine isnt the one in schertz.. id be curious to see it though

how far is crawford?

link me to restomotive's site! a good walkthrough would definitely be sweet

i finally got some discs for my big grinder and that stuff was like magic! hard to get in the seams and stuff though...

i think what i am confused on is.. one person says get as much rust off as you can.. and the other says leave rust and spray converter... so do i want to get the metal as clean and shiny as possible in the most areas or do i want to just get the "loose" stuff off??

i got the two "rear" pans completely grinded tonight and i sprayed a coat of my rust converter and will see what happens in the morning.. if it aint what i expected, i can also go back to the prep stage

exhaust question:
i know my car has all kinds of emissions stuff on it and it's an ongoing process of getting rid of it because i dont know whats stock and what is emissions.. so when i took off what i assume to be the stock exhaust it has a metal hollow rod coming off the cat and it went into the engine compartment... well i got my replacement exhaust today and not sure if something needs to be bolted to that or if that can be plugged?

the stock exhaust:
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the new one:
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what's my plan of action here?

would like to install this today if no modification is needed...

You have a PM.
Tom

"Progress"
test fitted the new exhaust courtesy of Tom (great transaction btw!)
seems im having clearance issues with the fiberglass body... something might be bent but not sure what i need to do to get a good inch between the tip and the body...

and i took out the old floorboard today since i got engman's replacement yesterday as well as the stiff kit (another great transaction!)

i was surprised to not see as bad of rust behind it as i was expecting! SMALL hole right under the dead pedal.. nothin toooo bad..

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Maybe a good muffler shop could cut the tips off and weld back on at a more level angle so the tips don't point up. That would give you the clearance you need. I remember on my 75 they were close, but I had a stock rear bumper and steel valance.
Your project is looking good. Keep it up.
Tom

Yeah - Isn't the tailpipe clearence "not good" becasue you have a 911 bumper? Might have to fabricate different hangers or notch out bumper.

you might have heard of my recent personal setbacks... but after finally getting to drive the car yesterday and knowing what im missing out on by it just sitting in the garage.. im full steam ahead again!

i broke one of my rules and got unfocused and turned my attention to the gas tank for some reason... so here's some pics of the removal... i guess one of those things you learn the first go round is to remove the gas first huh

looks pretty clean except for that "shelf" area with the debris on it.. and the only reason it looks wet in the pic is from the gas that leaked

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wanted to see what the pedalboard would look like:
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what i do when im not 'tooling'

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and a current pic.. figured id put a face to the username
brace yourself, it's not a pretty mug
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***UPDATE***

so my buddy is in town from College Station and we're prepping for the first engine drop... made a little progress and took some pics

the HE's and j tubes and all that are completely rusted and were held on by a combination of thin chicken wire and duct tape... i want to ditch the HE's altogether so not a huge issue

missing some of the transmission boots it looks like..

front 5 lug suspension is drilled rotors with what looks like 1" spacers
my rims indicate 15x8" and they are fuch replicas

longs looked pretty darn good. hell hole looks like... well.... hell.

will try to finish disconnecting everything and getting it ready for the drop tomorrow and hopefully this weekend itll come out

will follow up with pics later

What is it with Guitar Players and 914's???

well...

SHES OUT!!!!

im so proud. thanks for all the help in preparation for the first drop. here's some pics of today's adventure!

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the heater flapper boxes cables dont connect to anything.. i dont even have the flapper boxes lol...

I FOUND MY TIMING HOLE PLUG!!!!!!! it was hidden in the tin behind the air pump!!!

longs look solid

what all should i look out for when power washing the engine and the engine compartment?

Some things i noticed i might need to replace before putting it back in:
let me know where i can get replacements/upgrades:

- Engine mount bolts are bent
- the rubber pads on the engine bar are all crumbled and not flat on top
- heat exchangers are worthless.. jtubes and all that are all beyond help...
(how bad is it to run without all that?)
- how do i remove the air pump and other smog stuff?

just noticed i dont have a pic of the whole car in this entire thread

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sommmeee progress...
finally got the engine out and in it's new home, my dads shop lol
not real sure where to start on it...it would be cool if one of you experienced guys could break it down for me on the steps ya'll usually take when dropping an engine (keep in mind im a complete noob)

took a few random pics and have some questions as you could have guessed hehe

CAN I REMOVE THIS BRACKET THAT SUPPORTED THE SMOG AIR PUMP?
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IS THIS SUPPOSED TO BE MOUNTED HERE? LOOKS LIKE ONE OF THE CORNERS IS JUST HANGING AND SHOULD BE SCREWED DOWN BUT THERES NO HOLE FOR ONE
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HERES A PIC OF THE ENGINE STAMP(FOR THAT OTHER THREAD).. WHAT IM WONDERING IS IF I REMOVE THE HEATING SYSTEM, HOW I "PLUG" THE HOLES WHERE THE (i think) "j" TUBES CONNECT TO THE FAN SHROUD?
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HOW DO THE INJECTORS LOOK?
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WHERE MY FINGER IS TOUCHING IN THE PIC, IS THAT METAL "RAIL" NEEDED? WHAT IS IT AND WHAT DOES IT DO? IS IT PART OF THE SMOG STUFF?
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These are just a few of the 100's of questions i have lol... I really am wanting to rid the engine completely of the added SMOG equipment before i start fixing and replacing things.. does anyone have a list of all smog-added equipment or can they point stuff out if i post pics of the engine? i just want it as "clean" and "minimal" as possible

Thanks for the help in advance!

Send me your phone number and I will make arrangements to come over and visit. Mine is 830-755-4755

You can take all the emissions stuff off, as long as you cap the air injectors. If not you'll have a real big exhaust leak. That part in your first pic is part of the emissions also. You can also remove that bracket with the pulley.

As far as your last few posts, the bolts for your engine mount bar you can get at Rhone Co. or Alamo Bolt and Screw here in town. The mounts you can get at Pelican, Paragon, Zims etc. etc. I might have an early exhaust system for a 2.0 I'd be willing to let go of. If you ever need help just ask. You're basically five minutes from my house.

Chris

hey chris not to sound dumb, but where are the air injectors? got a pic?

and i still dont know what this part is and if it can be removed or not?
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did some wire brushing and gettin it all cleaned up pretty nice

got the new trans mounts on and ready to tackle the intake runners...

the smog stuff still has me baffled.. surely there's someone that has done a smog removal before and can list what all can be removed?

what part of san antonio you live in chris? we'll have to meet up on a day off soon!

so i took this "bracket" looking thing off tonight when looking for stuff to prep for paint and not even sure what it's use is... what is it and can it be removed?

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It holds the air cleaner.

ahh ok. thank you sir.

new question: what all do ya'll recommend painting with high heat paint and what can be painted with "normal" paint?

The air injectors are the small tubes coming out of the heads on either side of the intake runners. There are four in all. The tubing running to them can be removed. Just be carefull when you remove the plumbing going to them. Then you have to cap them to keep from getting an exhaust leak. Also any hoses running to or from the air pump can be removed as well. It's real easy to do. I did it on a 76 2.0 I had a few years back. I can help you if you need it. I'm not to far from you. I'm over in Universal City, by the Forum.

If i remember right if you are pulling off the heaters. you do not want to plug the ducts at the bottom where the S tubes or i think you called them J tubes connect. the formost authority of Type 4 motors an gentlman by the name of Jake Raby recommends that you do not plug the holes. just leave them open.

Make sure to plug the holes in the engine tin where the heater hoses go down from the fan to the HE's

Now Requesting Texas Volunteers for this repair:
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- i need to order those plastic square things on the topside of the end of the engine bar.. looks like the bolt is molded into it.. where can i get those and what is their correct name?
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i have a question on the fuel lines. i thought there would only be 2, a supply and return.. but it would appear that i have 3.. 2 black ones and a smaller clear one.. can someone clarify what means what and the proper way they should be mounted.. i want to pull the old ones out soon but not sure if all 3 come out

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i wonder if this was part of the reason why my shifting was so sloppy:
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minor update....

i got the engine up on stands so that i could work on it a little higher... got the heat exchangers off and the driver's side header off (to get to the oil filter)..

managed to pull one of the exhaust studs out with the nut.. what do i do now?

also.. the oil filter was/is on there TIGHT!... in an attempt to get it off (without an oil filter wrench), i managed to shift the entire engine and it "fell"... its ok though, my right hand broke its fall... so as blood gushed down my arm and i ran back to the house to tend to it, im not real sure what status the engine is in right now, i believe its safely on all 3 stands still...

pain is shooting through my entire right arm... throbbing like a mother...

so work will be halted for a few weeks...

got some new rear struts off ebay and got the engine mount bar cleaned and painted, and installed the new mounts. turned out great

sigh...

AAARGH!

I hope you are gonna be OK.
let me try again-
I hope you didn't hurt yourself badly.
thats better. 914 people are never "OK"

Hey! What is going on with you? Are you still injured?

I'm doing a lot of the same stuff you are. I am really jonesing to
drive my car but its gonna be another 4-5 months.

John

im all healed... im still looking for a competent welder.. i had one contact me through craigslist and it sounded promising, he just hasnt contacted me on the days ive told him im available... i wont hold my breath..

i hear ya man.. i wanna drive it soo bad... still aimin to have it back together by summer.

anyone that has outsourced their floorpan and hell hole repair to a professional, what information do i need to provide to them? my main concern was the door gaps and overall straightness of the car...

so yea... the welding part has me stressed...

but my hand is fine

Good to hear you're healed. As I told my brother after he unsuccessfully used his face to stop a 500lb vending machine from hitting the ground, next time jump OUT of the way instead of IN the way. Things can be replaced, but you can't.



The only thing they need to know is how much money you have.

For the $500-$1000 or more that you will pay to get this work done, go out and buy yourself a nice welder and have at it. Take a class, buy a video, ask a friend; welding is not super difficult. Actually it's a lot of fun. I taught myself through reading on the web and trial and error. My bro-in-law is a welder for the railroad and he gave my lots of tips and instructions. I still suck at it but I'm getting better with every weld. Before you know it, you'll have welded a cage in your car.

BTW, keep up the good work and pics.

wow gentlemen... after a LONGGGGG time without posting to this thread, it saddens me (in a way) to say that this girl is now for sale as it sits.

Current State:
It is currently in the queue at Renown Auto, auto restoration place about a mile from my house. It is awaiting floor pan and other various rust repair issues.

The engine is out and in a few pieces in my dad's workshop and my bedroom is filled with aftermarket and replacement items still in their packaging (cold air intake, bushings galore, stainless fuel lines, brand new fuel line kit (the pricey one) and other various stuff.

The reason I said I was "kind of sad" was because I have an almost running Ravenna Green 914 which is what I will focus my attention on and keep. The folks nag me daily (sometimes every hour!!!! no kidding) to "do something with the green car"... so.. the time has come.

I am wanting to sell the red car as it stands and this will help fund the engine work needed on the green one. I may also be willing to trade the whole red car (and all the parts etc) for engine work services.

I am willing to take a loss on the red one and chalk it up to a lesson learned.

It has a 2.0 motor that was pulled running. I had stripped the tin from the motor and it has been powder coated jet black and is still wrapped in the bubble wrap I got it back in. The gas tank is out of the car as well. You can think of it as a shell, with the dash, steering wheel, front and rear lights, and suspension still in place. Everything else is stripped on it.

It has the nice fat 5-lug Fuchs on it which are probably worth what I'll be offered for the whole package lol...

Please, if anyone is interested in taking this "burden" off my hands, PM me. I'm willing to make a great deal to someone to help keep this in an enthusiast's hands.

Thanks!

*looks around*

wow! haven't been on the forum in a while... April 3rd 09 it would seem!

wanted to kinda update the thread in case anyone was actually following it, and also to ask a question...

I have the car listed on Craigslist at the moment and have gotten a LOT of emails on it (it's listed for $2500). Odd thing is, I've gotten a LOT of offers on just the wheels... Now, if i sold just the wheels, this would make selling the car even HARDER!

I'm wondering what would be a good price to let the set of wheels go for by themselves. They are 8" wide 15" Fuchs (I will confirm real or fake tomorrow in the sunshine) but I believe they're replicas. 3 of the center caps are "pop on" types and one has 2 clip points.

I will take one off tomorrow to get a part number or other stamping off the inside and will update the thread.

thanks guys! pretty soon i'll be "914 minded" again lol. My green one has been waiting for some lovin', but I can't get to her until the red is gone.... The boxster has been fun in the meantime!! It's like a 914 on steroids.

good to be back!

ps. looking back at the pictures in this thread... damn my hairline is receding!!! make it stopppp!!! i'm only 24!