With what I have seen, 914's are becoming a collectors car. So you'd be best to leave it stock. Go ahead and massage that 4cyl a bit, but leave things stock, like heat, muffler, trim, interior etc. You'll get a good return and more respect from other Porsche Owners for just leaving the as it came from the factory.

You think? I'm not seeing the same thing. If it was a sure thing you'd think somebody would be buying bunches of cars for the investment, but I can search ten Craig's List sites within a two hour's drive of the Bay Area and find a dozen "rust free" California cars from $1000 to $2500. That's no different than adjusted prices from ten years ago. I'd like to think it was getting better, but don't see it myself.

And getting "more" respect from 911 owners? More than what?

My thinking is that you've got a car that's fun, and that's why you got it, to have fun. If you wanted an investment you'd have bought a 356 and you wouldn"t drive it much, which is no fun. You don't have a 914 concours candidate if your car has ever been pranged, had rust or rust repair, a dealer air conditioner option, a six conversion, bad paint, an oil cooler or flares added, or even had the radio cut out boogered up to put in a DIN unit. If that's the case, and it is in 90 percent of the cars out there, then go ahead and have fun with your car. Investments are boring, no one I know has ever made a dime from hanging on to a 914, you didn't buy it for the investment anyway, and now it's the weekend, so HAVE FUN with your car! And I don't need to tell anyone that more horsepower, no matter how you get it, means more fun.

Well... I didn't build my car, But I think it was converted in the late 98's or so. Runs like a champ, plenty of availamle HP. I do agree with the CofG, a flat 6 would be the ticket, 930 turbo would be even better. For the price of a set of carbs for the 6 you could buy a well equiped v-8 crate motor.
If you go to the "Dark Side" with a V-8 or Subie, do your home work on the Rennigade, Rod simpson, Kenedy web sites. I see Kenedy offers a Lexus V-8 conversion kit ??? probally for a sand rail. But hey it may be worth a try.
I have had both Lexus V-8's SC-400 and GS-400, Sweet engines and all aluminum. Plenty of torque and VVT on the GS got great gas mileage, That would be the way to go. I also have a WRX wagon, prety quick, but lots of lag, 1-2 sec. before the turbo kicks in. What every way you go you'll still need a daily driver to make the parts run to th AP store.

Good Luck,

Tony
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Let's see som Picts.

mostly...

if it's my cash, you see what I did, a 2056... if I was going to do a conversion, I'd WANT to do the porsche /6... a 3.0 or 3.2... but my pocketbook would probably afford the scooby better...

I still don't like the idea of a radiator in my little car tho

$5K = no /6 conversion.
Probably not any decent, long lived, conversion of any kind once ancillary equipment (brakes, radiators, clutch, oil coolers, exhaust, gauges, etc.) are factored into total costs.

I did my /6 conversion 20 years ago, performing all the labor myself except for machining.

Here's what it cost 20 years ago(1988):

'73.5 911T 2.4L/6 with 90K miles $2,500.00
Rebuild heads $265.96
911 muffler, stainless steel $free(included with engine)
Muffler tip, chrome $9.57
914-6 engine sheet metal $free(included with engine)
/6 engine mount, Becker Engr. $258.68
Motor mounts, etc. $229.55
oil tank, S.Machining $319.87
914-6 headers $266.56(no heater anymore )
Bosche alternator, '73 911 rebuild $117.65
Clutch, '69 911S $340.64
Permatune CD ignition $170.77
Oil cooler, '73 911 $448.06
Tachometer, '73 911 $104.88
Flywheel, '70 914-6 $402.10
Fuel pump, CIS $149.75
Fuel acumulator, '73 911T CIS $52.10
Fuel fitting Zinc plating $10.00
Gaskets, various $31.51
Pressure Fed Chain Tensioner kit $318.40
Sealants $31.51
Misc. nuts/bolts/etc $312.43
Special oil fitting, engine to tank, conn $95.14
Oil lines, etc. $821.18
Engine installed total = $7406.44

Side note #1:
If I had not replaced the /4 engine 20 years ago, I probably would not own a 914 today. The engine I replaced was a 2.0L/4 with carbs installed by PO. Smog illegal then as well as smog illegal today (a '73 914 is test exempt only, but not smog exempt). The fuel injected /6 passes smog easily , gets better MPG , and has 50 more HP .

Brake/axel upgrade (1991), I supplied all labor:
package deal, used parts $1100
Axels, '73 911S half shafts/CVs
Struts, '73 911S Koni
A Calipers, new F/R rotors, '83 911SC
Stub axels, 914-6
Koni front shock inserts, '73 911 $259.95
Brake pads, front Ferodo $30.19
6x15 Fuchs $500.00
Rear caliper spacer kit $145.64
Tires, Yokahama A008P P195/65x15R $422.00
F/R alignment $140
Alloy lug nuts, alloy hubcaps $122.43
Brakes/wheels/axel total = $2720.21

Side note #2:
I hated the Koni suspension! Was so stiff I found myself dodging shadows on the pavement! In 1995, I replaced the rear Konis with Bilsteins, and the entire front suspension with one out of a 1989 911 Carrera with Boge inserts. Still very firm suspension, but not jarringly so. Excellent for my street car 914.

Shocks, rear Bilstein $200.12
Front suspension, '89 Carrera $650.00
F/R alignment $140
SwayBar, '89 Carrera underbody $5.00 (a year later, hugh improvement!)
total = $995.12

Dispite the high costs, after 20 years, 200K miles, I am very happy with my engine swap, VERY HAPPY
Very well worth the $$$$$$

I just did this around 7 months ago, so let me show you that you can actually still have an advantage if you really want a conversion like I just did. First of all ,You will have more fun with more hp and better suspension that is for sure. Here is a thought.........Why not take that $5k, and find a conversion that has every thing already. If the car is beat, than take everything out, and apply it to the 914 you already have, sell those parts, and get some money back. This is exactly what I did. By the time I was done, I paid $5k for the conversion parts car, (however, I should add the conversion was sound in the beater, but the car was dead), sold my newly re-built 2.0 for $2600, seats for 150, and exaughst for 200 out of the original 914, so $5,000-$2950 =$2050. Now, I paid around $3000 for labor and new parts, so you figure, I just paid about $5-6 thousand dollars for a complete, conversion, and that is including some body reinforcements. The reason I did the calculation is so you can see how you can actually save money by selling your old parts. I was even able to take parts off of the beater that I needed for my car, and then sold it as a roller. All of those parts and parts I saved in the past and the roller sold for $400 (actually this was a good deal !!),so you can see I really saved even more money. You have to be patient, first of all. I didn't sell my roller and parts until my conversion was completely done. You just have to remember that at the end you get your money back, and if you are going to have someone do the labor for you, make sure you have a honest ,up-front deal, and communicate. Some of the money I saved from my parts went toward my phone bill, but you know what, I have not had any problems with my conversion, because I was constantly able to talk to my mechanic (Heeltoe914) , and he never once avoided me, and when he told me he was going to need more money, I had it ready, and would always be told in advance, so there were no problems. I know a lot of guys would say go to a shop only, but guys like Heeltoe that have a shop at home are plenty capable of doing the work just as well, but save you money. Just make sure you've got the rite guy !!!.....One more thing to add, just for the record....In the begining, I wish I had $5,000 dollars to spend. I saw the car I wanted, met with the seller, gave him a contract for a non-refundable $500 deposit, and told him to give me a few weeks to come up with the money. I sold my 92' sc Lexus and "borrowed"(He, He,He) some money from my wife's income taxes to get that $5000. So basically, I did about a $10,000 transaction, starting from broke !!!! If I did it, you can do it too, you just have to get your hustle on man !!! I don't mean to write up such a long post, but I wish someone would have told me what I am telling you, because I had just got through paying about $5000 re-building that slow 2.0 that everyone said I would enjoy....that money could have went straight toward my conversion, and maybe I would still have my lexus today

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Force fed Porsche flat six, the only way to fly.
Marty

I couldn't agree more!

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088304.html
vr6 with video
Pretty long install but sounds pretty hairy
Not the hot version but plenty of potential.
Not a 914 but a fiero.

I put an all aluminum Gen III LS6 in a 914 and did a hell of alot of other modifications to harness the power. It has 540HP and moved as fast or faster than most supercars. I sold it to a guy in NJ and now he's having all the fun with it (and trying to hang on to his driver's license).

It's absolutely true that buying somebody else's dream is the cheapest way to go. I did that with mine in '94 in San Francisco, as an unfinished 2.7L conversion. It was very well done by the PO and drivable, but not completed.

I finished it and then converted it to a 993 motor in '99. The addition of fuel cell and other racing stuff was done in 2002, but that was optional for a street car. The only thing I really needed for a street car was more air through the external oil cooler, which I did then as well.

The car is basically unchanged since then except normal maintenance, safety upgrades, and suspension tuning. Darned reliable ride that one... and generally quick enough to get me out of trouble faster than I got into it.

Doing the work myself saved gobs of dollars, but here's the point again...

Buy one that's already close to what you want.

I bought the '75 I have now a few years ago (3rd 914, owning 2 others many years ago). A very clean example, straight with very minimal rust. It was pretty much stock with the original 1.8, it even had the original exhaust with cat - except the po had switched the FI to 40 Webers.

I have always dreamt of doing a Porsche /6 conversion and thought this would finally be the canidate. Since the car drove well, I chose to collect brake and suspension parts for a 5 lug conversion before any decision would be made about the power plant. I was just finishing up collecting parts when the 1.8 became sick. Since it would make no sense to me to install all of these beautiful new parts into a car that was not running, I was faced with my decision. I had already spent several thousand dollars collecting parts and was not in the position to drop $10K more (minimum) to do the conversion I still dream of. I chose to go to Mark DiBernardi of Original Customs in Napa Valley for his 2056 (McMark 5K motor). I used the 40 IDF's (fully rebuilt) and the recommended Malory ignition with a module as well. I did everything at once - Motor swap with new stainless 2.0 exchangers, new Birch, new/refurbished 911/914/6 brake and suspension parts from Eric Shea, and all new shocks, struts and springs. 15 x 6j Fuchs refinished with brand new rubber, and even a new interior with a new sound system.... All for around $10K!

For $5K, I say go with a 2056. I have been running Marks motor for a year now and and am very pleased with it. Quite a difference from the stock 1.8 with low compression that was jetted and venturi'd way off!

I have the Kennedy kit and a Lexus motor in mine. It is a very large motor and has so far required extensive motor and chassis modifications. There is one of these conversions running in Atlanta but he has no firewall or targa bar! It is a great motor, all aluminum with 6 bolt mains and 32 valves!
Paul

I've seen Pauls car in the early stages of the conversion. I'll bet it really turns out good when its finished.

I've also seen the other Lexus 914 conversion and was impressed at how quiet the engine was. No mechanical noise at all.

Bob

I have one of those also, but it's still in the LS400

Well, my opinion is biased.... Sort of....

I would go for the Suby conversion.

1 - It is fun
2 - It is lightweight
3 - It is a direct offspring of the original TIV
4 - It is fun
5 - It is dependable
6 - It gets great gas mileage
7 - It is fun
8 - MY CAR WON BEST OF SHOW at the Ventura Auto Fest Mid Engine Mania
9 - It is fun
10 - Did I mention it was fun?

The car is frickin awesome to drive. It won the best of show judged by my peers not just by me.

Anyone make an AWD 914 yet?
I have an extra 2.0 914 motor you could put up front.
Here is a cool motor. I would love to see get to market.
http://www.revetec.com/

I have an original 76' 4 2.0; a 3.0 6 and a duel turbo 8....The 6 was FAR more expensive to build because of all of the special parts involved....The 8 duel turbo is by far the quickest and fastest and the 2.0 is the most balanced and pleasurable to drive.

You might be able to swing an N/A Subaru swap for 5K if you can do the work yourself. 180HP should work nicely and the engines are cheap and won't eat the 901. You can also go the all Subaru route like I am doing on my car. Engine and trans $1500, axles $200, flanges $500, radiator + shifter + engine mounts $1500..... leaves you with $1300 for the other 'stuff' that you always need. Realistic budget should really be $7500 if you include fixing a lot of things that need fixing anyway (like brakes, shocks, gauges heat....)
One thing you didn't mention is if you need to pass any smog inspections.

If money is an issue at all then build a moderate size t-4 engine, carbed. use stock heat exchangers if you live anywhere cold. headers if you want.you will get it done sooner or later.
The 6 on the other hand can be real $$$ and although I feel it is the best power source, the project could be too many $$$$$$ and you might never be able to enjoy it in your life time.
Don't even think about chevy's,mazda or anything like that. I would not buy someone attempt at that and feel you would destroy the value of a great car.If that is what you want to do,buy a pinto.

Ill be doing another NEW conversion in the coming months.

Subaru 3.0 Six with hot cams i think and mounted just like the 914-6 with front bulkhead mount.

There is no best engine conversion, it's to subjective.

Why not do a little at a time? So many posts that I see for six conversions say that if you want to do it right, you have to have the suspension upgrades to go with it. A six conversion can be completed in the $5,500 if your patient and look for good deals. For example, I bought a 70T longhood off of a guy that had no idea what he purchased. It needed work but the body and engine were sound. The car cost me $4,000 plus another $1,500 in misc parts. I recentley sold the chassis and tranmission for $3,000. All that I have left to buy on my six conversion is the muffler. So, I'm into my project for $5,500. Do I plan on suspension upgrades? Absolutely, but that's next year and it's give me time to save money.

3.2 Motronic engine. Reach in turn the key, tons of torque, no idle jets to fool with, last forever in a 914.

Once we see the Cayenne turbo motors become a bit less expensive, then that will be the best choice IMHO

Rich

Here is a pretty one!

What is that? Subie 6 cylinder?

"If money were no object"....
I've become fascinated with these smokin' little 2.8L engine; the H1V8. 400HP, 245ft/lb, 200lb. Here's the link if anyone's curious. Just a super cool and innovative engine.

can you provide more details of the 3.8 engine you have? how is the radiator and exhaust set up (any photos?) looks nice from what I see.

do tell more!

thanks

can you give more details on this motor? I like the idea that the radiator is in back with the motor, no hacked up front trunk is nice. does this engine get enough cooling like this? how much power?

i have been a thinking an engine bay radiator is ideal your is the first I have seen attempted. looks very nice. I wonder how big an engine I can squeeze int here and still fit a big enough radiator.

maybe a flat four subaru with radiators above near the engine top grill? then again maybe this three cylnder is enoguh power.

Please supply more details it you can

1000 ccs is not really considered a good motorcycle performance motor. It doesn't have enough torque. Torque is what you feel when you take off. If you can be happy taking a mile to get up to speed you will like a 1000 cc motor. Geo's go pretty good for a gas miser though. Kinda like the old diesel golfs. I always tried not to get stuck behind my coworker at a light in his no ac diesel golf. There was no chance of going the speed limit if you got behind him between lights.

That would be cool, but its a little pricey at $27.7k...

" The Best Engine Conversion" for me would be the Dean Popopolus 4 cyl. 911 motor which produces 200 HP w/ 44 IDA webers or can be set up with EFI. The motoe weights 100 ilbs less than a stock 911 motor.

I would use EFI and twin turbos which would produce approx. 450 to 500 HP the Ultimate 914 GT Turbo

My idea is the more cylinders the more power cycles therefore the smoother the torque curve and the smoother the sound. The smaller the rotating parts the higher the rpm.

If only those weren't way more money than a 'normal' 3.6!!! FWIW there's a local 356 guy that just installed his...will be in Excellence magazine soon. Damn shame actually, he was going to bring it to the vintage races with the rest of the 356 crew, I would have liked to do some recon laps on the track with him...
(I think his was in 2.4 flavor and was in the neighborhood of $25-30k, ouch!!!)

Perry,
I think we all like the 3.2, but doesn't that need the $$$ 915/916 transmission upgrade and a remote oil cooler?

Yep

3.2 liter 6. Its without a doubt the BEST thing we've ever done to a 914. i LOVE driving Huey now!!!

I use a 901 trans with my 3.2, no problem.

I can't believe noone's mentioned the most obvious conversion.. the Rover/Buick 215 all-aluminum V8. Easy 200hp at no weight penalty and bolts up to the 901 tranny with a Kennedy adapter.

I'm in the final stages of that conversion and having said that, next time I do a teener I'm going with a built 2.0. I love the V8 and the sound is to die for, but WAAAAAAAY too much work/expense for the gain.

Tom

My son just got back from a awd chassis dyno in Arlington, Tx. His 04 sti made 425 hp at about 6700 in 4th gear. The subys have 20% minimum drivetrain loss at the wheel. The motor is a 2.5 bored to 100mm, bigger cams, bigger valves, bigger injectors, fmic, and cold air intake, with a 30r turbo with 26 lbs of boost on premium pump gas on a 98 ( about 2pm) degree day with water and meth injection. He tuned it conservitively because of the possibility of crummy gas at times. This was after a 2hr drive to Arlington. It was a dyno jet and it could be 6-10% higher than a mustang. He is going to try to get on a mustang in Austin but they were busy Friday.

His motor would be a great 914 motor with the suby tranny.

You didn't have "Leave it alone" on the poll, so I couldn't vote.

You guys are going to be sorry in the future. Ends any hope of collectability.
MO

Based on $5K budget:

1. Keep your eyes peeled for a good deal on a 2056 on this site... someone upgrading their 2056 to something more HP and more pricey.
2. Buy the 2056 for a fair price (under $5K, if you are lucky)
3. Spend the rest of your budget on brakes and dropping weight.

And run that thing!

So you think Ferdinand Porsche would be more interested in seeing a bone stock 356 or a tastefully chopped and lowerd one with 944 suspension and a 3.0 F.I. Polopolous engine stuffed in it ? I'm betting he would be far more impessed with the ingenuity that springs forth from the quest for more power, better handling and custom styling over keeping an antiquated snail in the same format.

How does keeping something stock in any way answer the posted question of what is the best conversion?

Kind of "off track" wouldn't you say? Probably would have lead to some random rant and a topic being closed or moved over in another section of this board.....

Anyone have any pics of that GEO motor (and radiator) stuffed into the 914 engine compartment?

why was this closed?

Don't know either, so i unclosed it ...

part of the answer to this question is whether or not the car needs to be registered and whether or not it needs to pass emissions. because in delaware all cars newer than 1968 must pass emissions - i am leaning stock suby 2.+ liter for mild and quite and good gas mileage - stock ecu and 914 trans for ease of install.

edit: 27july2011 - took my 914 with 305 sbc to a tuner and he got my emissions well below the limits ( i was pleasantly surprised and delighted ) and i passed emissions with ease - so i am firmly in the sbc camp.

jim

Subaru EZ36R its the 3.6 liter version of the subie ez30R.

Fully dynoed and runs perfect. All DBW, and active intake/exhaust timing fully dialed in.

305 HP. N/A!!

This engine is awesome!!

Shameless plug

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=114326