I am starting the process of going Old School with my bumpers. I have a 76 and I am buying a older rear from Kevin this weekend. I have read the posts about this process (not much info) so I am asking if anyone has done this could they give me some tips. I don’t know how much work is involved retrofitting the older bumpers. Any help would be appreciated.

Neal

bleyseng has done it, and robby750's rear has been backdated as well (IIRC).

here's hoping they read the post and reply, to annoint me with bumper knowlege.

Neal,

I have a big-bumpered 75. I have never done this, but my understanding is that it is not too difficult.

Two things need to be done:

1. Remove the bumper shocks (couple of bolts)
2. Shave the bumper lip retainers. These are tabs that hold the side of the late-style bumpers to the car.

See the pic below...

I thought we had to drill holes for the mounting bolts ?

Yes. We do. We also need to find a way to hold up the middle of the rear bumper pad IIRC. ...and the tow-eye bracket from an older car if one chooses to use it.

Rick
'76 914
'75 914

Could you elaborate on that last post, I am looking for info to aid in this task
so more text would be good.

Neal I have pics of the last retro fit I did to JLO. Email me off line I will attach the pics if you want. I have done four other cars. No pics form them.
CCLINRETROWORLD

Why not post the pics here? I'd like to see them also.

Okay I will post pics here later this afternoon I am heading out for CAMP 914 and a parts run for Mike.
CCLINCAMP914

Thanks Craig. I know I didn't start the thread but I'm very interested in your pictures.

Rick

I've been thinking about the very same thing for my 75. I even had the bumper and the shock absorbers off today on the front to see what it would take. I discovered that the mounting holes for the old style bumpers are stamped inside the wheel well, just not drilled. I want to keep my square fogs. I recently upgraded to 100watt halogen bulbs for the fogs and they are awesome. I'm going to incorporate the square fogs in the square openings in the early bumper.

Another thought(I feel like Miles). I was told the rubber bumpers added 200 pounds to the the car. With the front off today, it felt more like 25-30lbs, and the shock absorber felt like 3 lbs. anyone know the real weight? URY?

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5

Pic 6

Pic 7

Pic 8

Pic 9

Pic 10

Pic 11

Pic 12

Pic 13

Pic 14

Funny, I do too. What the hell is it with people?


M

Sorry a couple of pics were out of sequence. One thing you need are the "dogbones" those are the rubber spacers for the front and rear bumpers. These will give you a guide where the holes that you need to drill are going to be located.
Also touchup paint is needed as you can see from the pictures.
After you have the holes drilled, get a longer bolt that will fit in the bumper and use it to hold the bumper(front ) in place while you put in the stock type bolts.
Also get new bolts and washers, I use stainless steel, just because I would prefer them not to rust in place.
Another thing when fitting the bumpers in either the front or rear,. Put tape of some kind on the areas that the bumper may touch and might scratch the body.
In the photos you will see that the front trunk seal needs to have the bodywork bent up to form a channel for the seal.
You do not have to do this , but I don't. Plus I do not glue the front trunk seals in place. You should remove them and clean the channel out, of any glue or dirt or rust, touch up with paint and wax the channel so that fluids do not collect and corrode the bodywork.
Just so you have an idea, the bumpers (triple chrome,filling lic.plate holes),and top rubbers and all hardware, totaled, $1500. on JLO
Any questions I will be happy to answer.
CCLINBUMPERSAREUS

Yep, its pretty easy to do as Craig showed. Fabing the rear rubber support piece takes abit of doing but its not hard.
I have $250 into the used early chrome bumpers,fogs,good rubber tops. Still need to finish the painting as I found some rust under the late bumper covers.

Geoff

Very nice photos.

If you are going with the round fogs up front, don't you need to fab a bracket also?

Round fogs, ahh another problem. I have found a stainless steel nut that I drill a hole in the front area where fog lights mount on the early bumper cars. It has a flange around it with three small holes that I enlarge slightly and then I pop rivet them into place. Takes two, one on each side. The stock allen bolt for the fog lights fits perfect.
I just went out to take a pic of one, I am out. Guess I better figure out where I got those.
CCLINCHOKEFULLONUTZ

Bleyseng, when you say fabbing the rear supports what do you mean ?
Neal

Craig and Geoff,

Thanks for the great photos and info. I have a 76 so I know what its metalwork looks like, but could you explain what is needed to support the early type rubber tops, front and rear? Geoff mentions support pieces. Thanks.

Mike

Good morning guys, The front bumpers have no real supports like the rear. The rear bumper has a small support that sticks out from the body just above where the lic plate is located. The rear top bumper rubber has a threaded stud sticking out of it that fits into that support. I have not had a problem with the center support not being present on the cars that I have retro fitted. The four bolts that you secure into the chrome bumpers are what hold the bumper on. The center support is only for the top bumper rubber and unless you have one that has no inner steel( you can't see it so don't worry about it) then it will stay in place.
CCLINRETROBUMPERS

Thanks for posting the photos. I don't have access to any whole early cars. I found this picture on all914.com. I've circled the bracket.

Now I see.

Thanks Craig and Kafermeister.

Mike

For the early fogs I used a blind nut which is the right size to accept the allen bolt. You drill the hole, in push it in and then tighten it up with this gizmo. I expands and locks into place just like the OEM one except its not welded in place.

Geoff

Here is a pic of the "tee nuts" that I use for the foglights, along with a new allen allen bolt. You will also wnat to add a flat washer and a lock washer. All items are stainless steel.
CCLINNUTZANDBOLTZ

Whaaaa!?!?! Pics please. Thanks Geoff.

Ok, I'll dig them out of the assortment box (pile of shit box) tomorrow.

Gint,

I think these are also called Riv-Nuts, since they are inserted into a hole and then expand and lock into place when the bolt is screwed in. Sort of like a rivet.

Mike

heres the pieces put together

here is the 3 pieces

Thanks Geoff. I've never seen those before.

Geoff, were do we buy them ?
Neal

I found them at Hardwicks in Seattle but I am sure there must be a online nut and bolt supppy house that sells them.


Geoff

Now that I have the hardware what is the best wat to mark the location of the mounting holes ?. I have a 76
Neal

Do you have the dogbones?? Those will give you the exact distance between the holes. ( top to bottom).
Look very closely at the area where the bumper holes are going to be drilled. You will find small indentations that are where the holes will go. Put one dogbone in that position and with a thin marker pen make your mark and double check by setting the bumper up to the area.
When you drill the hole, and it you are using bolts, make the holes larger than the bolt, you need a little cheat room to move things around. Take pics and send back and show us your progress.
CCLINBUMPERCARS

Craig, thanks very much for the reply, I do have dog bones and I was going to use studs in the bumpers so all I would have to do is put a washer and locknut on the backside of the stud, that seems like an easier way to hang the bumper.
Do you happen to know how long the factory bumper bolts are ?

Neal