...

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painting panels..

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the list....


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exhaust..

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Cool!

more...

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... still need to mount the harnesses

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as i left her on monday....

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didnt mean to duplicate... here is the other shot...

Pics are turning out great!

looking awesome!! let me know if your down in my area, would love to check it out, hopefully i'll be done with mines soon.

I do want to take a trip down the PCH at some point and get my car tuned at Outfront while im down there. I'll keep you in mind if i do.

so i am looking at getting a new steering wheel.

I want a suede grip and an overall smaller diameter. I have a few in mind but I don't know exactly what size to get. I did some research on the forum and it sounds like most performance wheels are 350mm, noticeable smaller than stock and fit well for taller guys.

The wheel in question is the MOMO mod 88 - either the 320mm or the 350mm.

http://www.momousa.com/products/products/s...ring-wheel.html

I also saw this one while searching for disconnects..

http://www.tekniqauto.com/US/wheels/popup964.htm

i've also been thinking about the Monte Carlo (even though its not suede) because it looks really nice.

let me know what you guys think.

-Peter

Peter.. if you like the Monte Carlo, check out the Momo MOD 69 (350mm).. it looks about the same and is suede.

Car looks great!

I just measured mine at a little over 13" outside to outside, I have hit the wheel many times with my leg getting in and it certainly takes a certain technique. I dont know if I could do it with a larger wheel.

Control is still very nice and I have plenty of strength to move the 255 profile wheel up front.

However your wheel your looking at has a flat bottom so that probably would help.

Hey guys,

Car has been running great, but I ran into an issue with my brakes.

I had the car at school for about a month and it drove perfect. I brought it home and it sat for about a month. When I went to drive it for the first time a few weeks ago, the brakes had a spongee feeling to them. (took a pump or two to get good pressure on the brakes)

I bled the brakes before I took the car to school and they worked fine. Somehow I think I am getting air in the system, but I don't know where to start looking.

What do you guys think?

Hey Guys,


So I have a few updates on the car after being able to work on it a little over my winter break.

1) I started to add carpet to the inside...

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Hey Guys,


So I have a few updates on the car after being able to work on it a little over my winter break.

1) I started to add carpet to the inside...

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2) I wanted to do something with the dashboard because the basket-weave was coming off. So, I came up with this...(It will all be flat black eventually)


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3) I made the decision to go with a 5-lug setup after I came up on a great deal on some original 16x7 fuchs wheels with a black powder-coat and some used tires.

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details: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=157331

- So, I read through the 5-lug thread in the Classic Thread Section, and have a basic understanding of what needs to be done, but I am interested in your guys' opinions and experiences with the various strut/caliper combinations. For the fronts, I just want to do struts/calipers/rotors. I also stopped by Parts Heaven just to see what they had, and they had a setup out of a '85 or '86 Carrera for $1400. Let me know what you think.


-peter

Thats a bit expensive IMHO, But I havent bought 5 lug lately. I would think closer to 1k would be a good pricerange. Im pretty sure I bought my setup with the rear for ~$750.


Carpet install looks great!

Looking great on the carpet! I remember you commenting when I put down the matte layer beneath the carpet, are you going to do the same, or just the matting? Either way looks awesome! Love the contrast between the green, the black seat and the grey!

I knew this would be on the high side of pricing, but I just wanted a retail value for the stuff. I'll keep my eyes in the classifieds and maybe post a WTB.

anyone else with what they are running?

Thanks! It is just the carpet there, nothing beneath. It will be nice when all the pieces are done. Trying to get the car ready for WCR... hopefully with the 5-lug done too.

what kind of carpet did you use? how do you apply it? i like the look and want to do the same. im guessing adhesive spray? but idk how to get the carpet to go smoothly over all the bumps and bends.

Well, I've decided to revive this 8-year-old thread to document the next iteration of my 1974 Subaru conversion.

The last 8 years...

I drove the car a lot for the first 4-5 years or so. Drove all the way down the coast to LA, several trips to Tahoe and used it as a semi-daily driver during the summers. Unfortunately, it has mostly sat the last few years only getting driven a few miles every couple months.

I have a little more time right now, and just sold my other 'project' car (Audi B7 S4 Avant). So, I figured it was a good time to get this car back on the road with some upgrades....

What I have planned:

1. Turbo the EJ25

- outfront header
- OEM Subaru turbo (TD04) set to ~7psi boost
- custom exhaust (tbd)
- keep EMS engine computer
- should put me around 250-270hp at the crank

2. Interior Upgrade

- fix cracked dash
- flock dash
- new layout of switches/start button, radio delete, etc.
- maybe center console?
- would like to add a heater of some sort, something small and standalone

3. Other overdue maintenance items

- new brakes (disc and pads all around)
- new front struts
- replace brake lines with braided stainless (replaced 2 a while ago, need to replace remaining 2


There are probably other things I am forgetting, but this is the majority. I've already done some mockups of the turbo to see how it is going to fit, I'll show that in the next post. Here are some photos of the last 8 years....

Still with the old 4-lug setup:


5-lug setup on:


Had a few of these over the years..


On the coast somewhere:
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some more...


And here is where the car has sat for the last few years...
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And just for fun.. this was my other project. 4.2L V8 After completing the timing chain/guide service:



Next post for mockup of the new stuff!

Looking forward to getting back on the world... it's been too long.

Peter

So here is my first mockup of the turbo parts.

I got the header and turbo from jRust. Super nice, un-installed, still shiny parts from outfront. Everything fits (with some minor adjustments) except for the turbo blow-off valve. It hits the firewall and will need to be offset..

Issues that will need to be corrected to fit the new header/turbo setup:

- general re-arrangement of wiring, no biggie.
- space the engine up another 1/2" so exhaust will clear engine mount bar
- find straight thermostat housing (I think the 3.0L subie has this) to clear the exhaust
- offset blow-off valve. if anyone has any suggestions on this, I would love to hear it.
- my current thought is to just space the valve off to the right with cylinder spacers and longer bolts, then re-thread/bend the arm to fit. thoughts?

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Birds-eye view of engine bay with header installed:


Close-up:


Turbo set in place:




Clearance issue with bov. Should be flush against the turbo to the left


Thermostat housing inlet pipe interference with exhaust:


Exhaust just clearing engine bar:


Additional spacing required to achieve exhaust clearance: (engine is on a jack right now for mockup)



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So the big thing is the blow-off valve. The rest of the items are pretty minor adjustments. Overall, I think this is going to be a really clean way to run the turbo.

Let me know what you think and what issues I may be missing.

Peter

Paint looks nice *Cough*

Seriously this'll be a fun project to watch!!! Cant wait to see it!

Your clearance issue is with the wastegate actuator, BOV is another part.

You might need to go external wastegate.



Intercooler?

Thanks, Andrew! yes, the paint is still holding up very nicely for almost 10 years! In case everyone hasn't figured it out, Andrew painted my car

And thanks for clarifying - my turbo knowledge is still limited. yes, it is the wastegate actuator that is hitting the firewall.

My plan is to go with no intercooler. I've read the info on outfront's website, and with this setup, as long as I stay ~7psi boost, it isn't needed. What do you think?

You can get away with it. You'll need to log IAT's to make sure and you'll have to run lower timing. Also anything you can do for heat management will help. A small air to air wont help much as you dont have any flow. A small air to water will but it'll add weight and complexity to the system. I run a BIG air to water and my IAT's are Low low low.

So, finally got some time to post some updates.

1. Got the car up on jack stands and got the engine/tranny out
2. started to clean up the engine so I can replace the water pump
3. I started to clean up the engine bay because I was lazy when I did this conversion 8 yrs ago.
4. made some renderings on how I want the interior to look after this.


Two issues I came across

1. I talked with the guys at Outfront, and they basically said that I could not turbo my motor because of the high compression compared to a turbo motor. My motor is at 10:1, and he said a turbo motor needs to be around 8:1 - unless I run race gas or E85 - or reduce the compression. Any thoughts on this?

2. I looked inside the cylinder with a scope (kinda wish I didn't) and I found some oil inside the cylinder. See photo below, this is taken looking in through the spark plug hole. Is this concerning? The engine always ran great and no smoke.


Photos:
Back on jack stands...




Dirty motor and Clean Motor:





Oil in the Cylinder:



Dash Render:

Love the render and the progress!! Keep it goin!

Thanks, Andy.

Any thoughts on the compression issue with the turbo? Or the Oil in the cylinder?

Low compression turbo motors are old school. High compression is the new school. It just means a hell of a lot of timing pull. But what it does is give you LOW end power and fast boost response. You might have to drop your boost on the higher rpms but the sacrifice should be OK. You can always go with meth injection to help but be careful.... I would just say either tune for E85 and enjoy the extra 50-75hp or have a low/high boost setting and throw a couple gallons of e85 whenever you go high boost. Shoot for E20/25. Not enough to require a retune but it's about 100 octane and dirt cheap.



As far as the oil, with it being a flat motor I really don't know... I would think it would be a bad PCV or something that's letting crankcase oil get in there but the piston doesn't have excess carbon build up... Id ask the Subaru guys...


But Id run it till it pops...

Got some more to update:

1. started to clean transmission. Just trying to get a layer of grime off while its out.
2. Figured out why I was having a coolant leak. There is a small rubber seal between the pump and engine housing - it must have dislodged when I replaced it several years ago. New seal ordered.
3. Replaced front rotors. Waiting on black caliper paint. Will paint calipers, replace pads, replace front brake lines with SS braided (rears already are SS) and then reinstall.
4. Got new bilstein strut inserts installed. I have a question here...

The old boge strut inserts had a pair of washers at the bottom to center it up (see photos). They didn't seem to fit the shape of the bottom of the bilsteins, so I did NOT reinstall them. The bilsteins now sit flush against the bottom of the strut housing. Is this correct? Let me know what you think.

Next on the ToDo List:
1. Finish front brakes
2. Start/Finish rear brakes.
3. Re-assemble engine once I have all the new seals (I got some other misc rubber gaskets to replace as well)
4. Start work on interior.


Photos to follow...

New brake parts (Front/rear rotors and pads, brake fluid):




Transmission Cleaning:






Removing Timing Belt to get to Water Pump:




Rubber Seal that was never seated correctly:




New and Old Rotors....




New / Old Struts:






Pair of Washers I have a question on... Should these be in there with the bilsteins too?