Well, I thought this would never happen, but she went up on the stands tonight.

-this may be a slower progress thread as I work and have practice till 8pm everday except friday. But, it will get done!!!!

Here are some pictures for now.

So i have removed everything to drop the engine except the CV's.
I know I need a special 12 point start tool. What size is it? and does anyone have any good places to get one. Checked kragen already, and they didnt have any 12 point tools.


Also, i am trying to get the passenger seat out and it wont budge. The PO had the seats re-upholstered but upon re-installation the PO put the driver's seat on the passenger side and the passenger seat on the drivers side. The passenger seat is completely jammed and doesnt slide foward or back and only tilts in its current position. because it wont slide foward I cant access the 4 bolts that attach the seat bracket to the car. any ideas??

-Peter

good luck with the whole coversion, I have the ej-22 motor in my '70 914 and it is a blast! try using a long flat blade screw driver to wedge in between the seat lock and the rail and the passenger seat should slide forward. Thats what i have to do...

Hazet is probably the best; PerfProd and the usual suspects will have them.
MetalNerd [ MetalNerd Site ] also has good 12-point stuff. 8mm. Not really "12-point" they're 'triple-square' ...

But any NAPA store will probably have them - look on the pegboard of KD tools. You may find a version that you slip into an 8mm socket, in which case, get a good 6-point 8mm socket too.

hey we can't leave our friends at P-parts off the list of a source of that tool either ...or a friendly local teener owner might let you just borrow it

True....anyone close to Menlo Park, CA that wants to let me borrow the CV tool for an afternoon?

-Peter

Many auto parts stores actually carry the 12pts

I just bought the tool online last night on metalnerd.com now back to the car to get that damn seat out!!

-Peter

Good luck with the conversion!!

-Tony

Thanks tony!

-I got the motor today, i will post pics a little later

...and I got the seat out.

-Peter

Any secrets on the seat (PB Blaster, etc), or did you just tug like hell?

i have a v8 914 but with gas prices today - i am thinking it would be nice to put together a 1.8L or slightly better subaru conversion with radiator in engine bay, ducting air thru the passenger door and thru firewall. maybe no pass seat at all?

luckily I was able to remove the seat with the intention of putting in racing seats. But what I did was I removed the upholstery and the foam and then I drilled out the retaining nuts for the seat mount. My goal was to preserve the floor brackets I'll post pics later

My car currently has a strong running 1.8L. (drove it home from Sacramento to Menlo Park..bout 3 hours... 75 the whole way no problems, and I also drove it pretty hard before it went on jackstands and it never hesitated or hick-up'd) It will be for sale...PM me if your interested

Stripped interior---drilling out the nuts

woops...

i am forever in debt to my parents for letting me takeover the garage...

Engine is out! will post pics later

-peter

So, updates for the weekend

-the engine is out!!!! my brother and my two friends came over to help with the removal. all went well. got a little hung up on some of the engine tin, but easily fixed with a little massaging of the tin.

-removed the rest of the floor tar, so now the entire floor and backpad is ready to be sanded/grinded down to bare metal then I will por-15 the entire inside.

here are some pics...

coming out...

...

...

Alright,

So here is what I have been up too. I started the process of grinding down all the rust and paint on the floor pans and firewall to find out exactly what is good metal and what will need to be replaced.

I took a quick brake of grinding and took about two days to re-fresh the gauge panel and the gauge bezels. I sanded them down to metal, primed, painted and clear coated.

I am almost done with the sanding/grinding of the paint and other 'stuff' that has accumulated on the car. After I am done it will get some POR-15....yeah baby!!!

I also got some more parts. I got the engine mounts from small car, the radiator (from a late 80's jetta, the same one that tonyakavw used in his second radiator setup). I also got a 16 gallon air compressor with a max 150psi from my friend who bought it for a fence he built and now has no use for it, so it is mine until further notice....hurray!!!!!!!!

So, I do have a few questions and then I will post pics.

-Can the POR-15 go directly onto the bare metal or do I need to add a coat of primer first??

-What type of sealer should I use to re-seal all of the joints where the previous white gooey material was or will the POR-15 be enough?

That is all for now, I know I will think of more questions as soon as I finish posting.

-Peter

pics to follow...

down to metal

...

primed, painted, baking

...

...

DONE!!!!

Metal...lots o metal......and some rust

...

rust....

The tools I am using...

Various sizes of wire brush (crimped) wheels

2 paint/rust remover wheels

that big one is called a removal all brush or something like that...worked really well to get the first layer of bulky rust off

small grinding wheels, a couple different styles, VERY useful for getting the tiny joints and areas where the wheels couldnt get too.

nice job keep it up

So, nothing has really changed on the car since my last post since I have been away at school, I have had no chance to work on the car. However, I have been ordering parts for a while and was able to make it home last weekend between water polo games and look at my new parts, and yes I took pictures. So here ya go......

--Stage one clutch kit from KEP--
--Flywheel from KEP--
--Adapter plate from KEP--

--radiator--
--fans--
--parts porn--



-Peter

..

Excellent choice on the raditor And those fans look familar too. Those tools you are using for paint removal are identical to the ones I used. I'm actually amazed, you have literally the exact number and variety of tools as I do (except the small grinding stone bits).

Looking good!

-Tony

Thanks tony, yea the small bits werent as useful as i thought but did help with some of the small corner style areas. I have a question for you actually. Where did you get your expansion tank and what style did you get?

Hi,
updates:
The car has been to the body shop and back in a record 2 weeks for the hell hole repair work (it always helps when your mom went to high school with the body shop owner).
While it was in the body shop and while I was home on thanksgiving break, I did some work on the subaru engine. I took off the wiring harness and the power steering pump and the A/C pump. I also removed the intake and the alternator. I put on the KEP adapter plate and flywheel/clutch assembly. I mated up the tranny and just snugged down the nuts cause I am going to send the tranny out soon for a rebuild....Dr. Evil?


Anyways....My question is this:
When the tranny and engine are mated up, the clutch fork has way too much 'slop' before the clutch begins to engage. I then realized that this might be caused by the thickness of the adapter plate pushing the transmission out further than it used to be. So, do I have to compensate for the width of the adapter plate? Thanks in advance.


-Peter

I got my expansion tank from a local place (which has a web site) www.importedcarparts.com. Anyway, its the expansion tank from many late model Audi and VW cars. Its nothing special, just cheap. I think it was $15 or so.

-Tony

Thanks Tony!

Anyone have an answer for compensating for the width of the adaptor plate?

The custom flywheel should compensate for this. I had no problems when putting my clutch in. I already had the adapter plate, so I ordered a flywheel and clutch kit from Kennedy and had no fit problems etc. That was perhaps the smoothest part of the conversion actually. Make sure you have all new parts in there including the bushing for the fork, etc.

-Tony

Thanks Tony, I will not be at home for another two weeks...school....but when I get a chance I will replace the fork bushings...etc. and re-check my install.

Until then...studying for finals....I wonder sometimes why I am a CE major and not ME...seems more appropriate for my hobbies...

Hey guys,
Sorry I haven't posted in a while, I have been on my vacation and...well been vacating. haha!

Anyways, I have some things to post about the car so here we go-

-I tackled the radiator shroud and finished it. This was the biggest ???? for me and I am glad that I was able to do it. It was my first time working with sheet metal, so it isn't pretty but I think it will do the job.

-My uncle came over yesterday and today and welded in my floorpan, seat brackets, and tacked in place my engine mount for the subaru engine. He is now going to take the seat mount to his work and use the bigger 220 (we only had a 110) to weld it together. He did an amazing job and I don't know where I would be without his help thus far.


Next---

well, I am heading back to school in a few days and wont be able to work on the car for about a month but here is what will be next eventually.

-now that interior is done, paint with por-15
-paint front trunk with por-15
-run radiator lines (on the way from renegade) and install expansion tank
-hook up electrical and put the intake and alternator back on and then install the engine


that's the line-up for now. let me know what you think and oh yea....PICTURES!!! (and i have a clip of my uncle laying down a weld, but I'm not sure how to get that on here...youtube and then post link??)


First...test fitting and making panels
Click to view attachment


more.
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Painted and finished
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Seat bracket...spot welds drilled out...conveniently making holes for plug welds
Click to view attachment

Welded in
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Tacking in place
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Welding
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last....finished
Click to view attachment


-Peter

man - u should have been a plastic surgeon - that floor pan/ seat bracket weld job looks great! jim