does any one know the proper size and pitch of the rotor screws? i gnarled these up pretty good taking them off (even with heat an impact tool and tons of pb blaster) anyone with this info would be awesome. also i need to change the wheels on my rear deck i have the replacements but my shop manual tells me i need a special tool for the t-bars. now i know one of you animals did this with out it, so tell me your secret.

No idea on the screws, sorry.
go to PMBperformance.com
Ask Eric Shea...he has them on stock.

The torsion bars....tricky little buggers.
If all you are doing it replacing the roller I will tell you what I do.

FIRST...the spring is under a shitload of tension...it can get away from you so keep your fingers away from the area behind the spring...its enough to snap fingers in half.

I use a deep 10mm or 11mm socket on a long extension...
Slip it over the rod right at the roller..
Bend it down and slide the socket deeper as fast as you can.
Once you have the socket all the way on there, you can just push it down and replace the roller...just watch the fingers...its scary.

Rich

- rotor screws: don't know the thread/pitch but i had a batch of "replacement" screws that was made of some kind of soft metal and the hex slots didn't last. one removal and they were useless. i went to my local porsche dismanteler and got a handful of original setscrews for $1, they work much better ...

- torsion spring removal: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=39320

Andy

I'm away from home and garage at the moment... but from memory, aren't the rotor flat head screws just an M6 metric thread?

thank you both ill have to have eric add that to my order

These screws, right?

theyre the animals

www.mcmaster.com

92010A420

If you buy a pack I'll buy 5 from you. Someone told me you can buy low quantities but it's not indicated on the online form...

Readily available at Home Depot, Lowes, hardware stores, Flaps. Usually in a 2 pack for less than a $1.

the socket extension trick is easy. no special tools needed. a deep 1/4"drive socket is the best to use due the thiner walls. prop the the rear trunk open with a stick first. this takes quite a bit of the pressure off of the springs/hinges. if you're going to stay with the springs replace the roller wheels with the bronze versions.

k

They are M6 x 1.0 pitch, and are similar to many other cars. My POS Honda Civic uses the same thing. HOWEVER, in most cases the heads are too large to fit in the recess of the rotor. That means drilling the rotor to suit, or grinding the heads of the screws. Be sure to use anti-sieze compound on the threads; they can be nearly impossible to remove later if you don't.
BTW, the original screws were slot heads.

If'n ya'll don't have an "Impact Driver" set, run off to your local Craftsman reseller and get one. That and a MAPP torch are the only way to consistently and successfully remove these puppies.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...20070921x00003a

I'd also recommend getting the phillips version as there is a bit more surface area for the fastener to engage. As Mark says... these are pretty common items at Lowes and/or Home Depot.

yeah i was using my big ass mapp setup (im an HVAC tech by trade) and an impact driver and still fukked up the lefts the rights went easier. i found stainless versions of these screws at my local hardware store today. sweet muffins!

'course you realize that those screws are basically just used to keep the disks from falling off while the car is on the assembly line, before the roadwheels are mounted... And maybe to keep the disk from shifting on the hub during roadwheel replacement, but I have never experienced that phenomonon...

With the lug bolts in place, the disk isn't going anywhere, and if that were their purpose they'd need to be way bigger than M6...

Those screws are used to properly set the handbrake on both the 911 and the 914. While this can be done with a couple open end nuts; the practical application must have the rotor secure to the hub to properly set either the 914 calipers venting clearance or the star mechanisms on the 911 drum brake. Neither of which can be accomplished with the wheel on the car.

Good points; I learn something every day, if I'm having a good day...

I have. Enough to have the rotor hit the caliper in one spot every rotation ...

But then again, i currently have the exact same problem on one wheel, if i actually tighten those damn screws down! seems like either the hub or th rotor is out of round. I have to back off on the screws just a bit to get the rotor to be where it should be ...
Andy