That's exactly what he told me too when I replaced my axles with SwayAway - letters on the outside.

Paul in re-reading the exchange, my answers, I see where some confusion may have occurred:

In post #97 is a direct answer to markings on Sway-a-Way axles.

In post #98 it was in regards to a question on casting numbers on a factory transmission output flange.

Does that clear things up?

Hmm, this doesn't seem right. Is there a part number for this 5mm spacer?

Also, they reference hub centric which usually refers to a wheel spacer which centers the wheel on the hub.

I seem to think there was a spacer, but honestly it was 2 years ago and I could be wrong.

I think people had the spacers made. I don't believe 69-73 need spacers.

I've been advised to use an old bearing inner race to make the 5mm spacer to fit my 911SC hubs/flanges to the 914 arms but I have no idea what year they are. My car is a 71 - I can do some measuring and find out though. I've still got a while before I install these so if anyone has some info that would help, I'd appreciate it. This thread has already steered me in the right direction for a 5 lug setup and now I've got everything I need- the upgraded brakes will be a big bonus too! I know, I know... brakes don't stop the car - the tires do. Yeah, I've got bigger ones of those too...

I mean when you use 69-73 911 parts.

Fyi, you can use 911 axles if you use the adapters from Patrick's motorsports along with the axle spacer kit. I have been running them for 5 years or so. The key is to use the cv end caps instead of any gaskets. the stock 914 gaskets kept wanting to crush out.

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/rea...4-transmission/

Thanks, but I'm using the Subaru trans so I'll have to mix and match....

Hmm, the stubs I'm using came from a '71.

Many of us know that, this whole thread is about the strongest possible 914/901 5 bolt conversion method with no adaptors.

I see frosty balls in the first few pictures ..those are shot , and I would never have rebuilt a CV with them..premature failure is immanent! ...good bearings are mirror shiney

and im not trying to bash anyone ...just the facts

What the fuck are you talking about?....hey wait a minute Keep your comments about my Canadian testicles out of this topic

Click to view attachment
Pardon me the proper term is Etching...around here we always called them frosty

I mentioned it a few years back about the condinsation in bearings and it causing microscopic explosions because you cant compress water...someone asked what i was smoken haha...i dont think they believed me ,but its true

Mike

Did you get it that I was joking about frosted balls?

Maybe you do need some

I did! and it was funny.... is it still frosty balls cold up there
and no i dont need to id never get anything done and all the cheetos would be gone in my house and at the corner store.. so anyway in the first couple pictures you can see 4 shiney balls and 2 etched balls that are bad,they`ll work for a short time but wont last long
Mike

Hang on a second though, I don't think this is my problem. The 911 hub to stub axle width dimension I measure where it slips into the bearing is 37mm like it should be.

The problem I have is that the 108mm diameter is rubbing on the inside of the 914 control arm. The cause may be my 911 handbrake. I fabbed and welded a bellcrank to the bottom of the control arm. The heat added was just enough to distort the metal and cause the contact. A dremel and a few mini sanding drums and a mirror was all it took to get the clearance needed. The concern now is how much does the hub expand once it all warms up. That just might suck.

Also, in rebuilding the CV joint boots, the Oetikers that Pelican stocks are roughly 74mm which don't fit the boot plates I have, even when fully crimped. With the boots installed, mine measure about 66.5mm. Apparently, there was a change some time in the early 70's to the larger 74mm. I found 2-3/4" (71mm) Oetikers at MSCDirect and they upgraded my shipping to Next Day UPS. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48549729

The inner boot location measures about 33mm so a 1-3/8" Oetiker (34.6mm) should work http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48549364

Click to view attachment

That sucks. And tough to get in there to grind some metal off.

For clarification, the 31 ft-lb torque spec in Eric's original post are correct for CVs which have six M8 bolts.

For CVs with four M10 bolts, the correct torque spec is 61 ft-lb.

I have a few questions in regards to building this axle set up. These will be installed into a 1970 914-6.

I thought I had the correct donor axles in storage and began taking them apart. I was excited to get all messy so I took them apart before measuring... turns out they measure to 110 - so they are from a 74 or so 911. Am I correct in assuming these will not work on a 914 - issues with the trailing arms, etc.?

At some point in this thread a few people suggested to buy a new 108 axle set up for a pre-74 911 with CV's installed - press off the CV's and install them on the correct length axles - I will be running the Sway Away 20.25" axles

In other words...

Buy a new set of 911 108mm axles with CV's...

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...068/7781410.htm

Take the hardware off and install them on the Sway Away

https://swayaway.com/product/axle-set-porsc...long-28-spline/

Then source the correct 108 mm Stub Axles and Trans Flanges.

So...how does my logic sound here? Sometimes it can be off so your advice is appreciated!

Thanks!

Looks good to me. You might want to call up PMB and ask. Those cv's according to the pictures have the two pins for the early flanges and stub axles. My car is a hodgepodge. I'm running an 86 915 trans with late model 108mm flanges that don't use pins. On the outside I'm running 108mm 1973 911 stub axles and cv'S. Using the swayaway axles. It would of been nice to use more modern cv's on the outside.

Thank you Steve!

Another quick question...sourcing pre-74 running gear parts. I found a set of 108mm trans flanges but they have a 915 part number - 915.332.209.01. These are 72-on according to PET. From my initial inspection these should work - 4 bolt, everything appear to be the same to be (don't have them in my hand so take that with a grain of salt).

Can anyone confirm that these will not present an issue? I do not have enough experience with the differences between the units through -71 (911.332.209.00) and the 72-on (915.332.209.01). Are the teeth the same on the transmission side? Is it nothing more than a superseded part number? Going into a stock 914-6 trans that will be built by Dr. Evil.

Thanks!

I have 110mm on my car. Works just fine and I got the C/V from Eric

72 was the first year for the 915 gear box. You want 901 coarse spline 108mm flanges. The fine spline 108's are for the 915 and won't work.

Correct, buying the complete axle set gets you the boots (with the flanges) and the CV's. You need 2 axle sets for a total of 4 CV's and 4 CV boots.

The CV boot flanges are the kicker here as they are NLA, you can buy the bare boot cheap, but only if you have the flanges.
Then you could buy the boots and the G50 CV. It's bit cheaper this way if you already have the flanges.
Either way you still have to buy the Sway-a-Way axles.

OK I will hold out to find a set of flanges that are 108 with the 911 part number to ensure it will be correct.

Thank you everyone for the information - much appreciated!

Now to post a wanted ad!

Better luck finding that part on pelican than here.

Yup.... and when they were last available they were quite spendy. Likely the main reason for the new half-shaft complete assemblies.
The price for just the NOS CV boot flanges was one of those "holy crap" Porsche moments.

Mark - what boot flange are you referring to? A replacement rubber cv boot runs $4. Not nos but ... What am I missing here.

The metal part of the CV boot, the rubber part is cheap.
VW/914 you get the whole CV boot, pressed together as one unit.

But if you order a CV boot for a 108mm 911 CV all you get is the rubber bit.
And IIRC a strap, no metal flange.

BTW if you do have the metal CV boot flanges and they are bent to crap DO NOT TOSS THEM, they are accually quite easy to straighten.

Just checked my stock, no strap even, just the rubber boot.

Do you mean these? They sell for around $20

I've read this thread many times over the past several years. Been collecting parts for some time and now ready to put it all together. I sourced some vintage 911 axles, but the CV's weren't great so I bought a pair of new axles from PP. Comparing the vintage to new CV's today they are both 108mm, but otherwise the dimensions are quite different. Most concerning is the height which measures 39mm on the vintage and 31mm on the new.

Does this affect the correct length of the axle?

for reference, there was talk of buying the new axles for the CV's in posts #61-76 but no mention of the differences. here's a couple shots of the CV's left is vintage, right is new from PP.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Eric can correct me if I'm wrong but since the sway a way axles are meant to float, I don't think the with of the cv's matter. You will need shorter cv bolts, something I've had difficulty finding.

That's what I'm running on my car. Thin 108mm on the inside (transaxle flanges) and fat 1973, 108mm on the outside with sway away axles. They float on the axles.
Click to view attachment

I am going to run 911 SC stub axles, they are 100mm. Same size (100mm) as the VW Bus and 944. You will need the 100mm Coarse spline flanges from a early 915 transmission. You can order the shafts or cut 4mm off the stock 914 shafts. Bus boots and 944 are one in the same. Bus CV have 17 degrees articulation and the 944 has 22 degrees. Either one is over kill because the stock 914 is only 12 degrees.

Steve, looks like you're running the long bolts on the short side. no clearance issues there? I assume that may not be the case on the stub hub side.

Not applicable for you. I'm running a 1986 915 gear box. It's a one year gear box with 108mm flanges. All the parts for this side are available new from Porsche.

Just to add more fuel to the fire, has anyone seen the racing style accordion-less boots used in a street car application? Go down the list and click on the Lobro 108mm CV boot listing

http://www.taylor-race.com/items.cfm?categ...2=Boots%2C%20CV


I suspect since these type of boots are intended for open wheel formula cars, the boot doesn't allow for a lot of angularity? I don't think the lack of an accordion is a big issue since the accordions are more of a feature for a FWD-like application where the CV actually pivots?

Never seen them on a non-open wheel.

This isn't directly applicable since I've never used the 108mm models, but I haven't been pleased with the longevity of the smaller ones on a few open wheeled race cars. The centers tend to tear pretty easily, even on a car with low shaft angularity. We actually went to bellowed ATV boots for greater reliability at lower cost.

Edit: Meant to add: All of the other Taylor Race stuff is great (as is their customer service)-and Scotty is the man!

Thanks for sharing your personal experience with the bellow-less boots. I suspect I happened to stumble across them by doing a google search. Didn't want to give them a blind try for $55 each!

I thought I'd follow up on my own question for any future readers. I had some new CV bolts from PMB. With the flange and gasket in place the length was fine using the newer/thinner CV's. Not sure if the bolts would have been long enough for the older/fatter CV's.

Also, I got confirmation from a local Porsche shop that the float compensates for the difference in the CV's and that it shouldn't be an issue.

here's some gratuitous axle porn...

Click to view attachment

Mark, is that the boot your running on your car>?
The reason i ask is that i ordered boots twice from AZ autohaus and got the wrong one.
maybe that makes me stupid but Im just trying to find the right boot so i can get my rear axle situation sorted out.
Or could you guys tell me what the diameter of the flange where the boot hits it.
mine is 2.55 inches od on the flange. every boot i get fits inside of the flange and thats wrong.

It looks like swayaway is un reachable...
https://swayaway.com/

But this website seems to sell the correct axles :

https://www.racereadyproducts.com/axles/swa...-way-irs-axles/

So I’m a new to all things 914 and looking go 5 stud.
I’ve read both threads 2 or 3 times, brilliant work.
I have front and rear 5 lug suspension from a ‘78/‘79 911sc so its an easy swap over except for rear.
So I’m thinking why not just make up a 28mm steel spacer that will fit between the gearbox flange and the 911 axel?
Obviously one end will be drilled for the 100mm 911 CV and the 108mm flange with countersunk bolts?
Any reason why that wouldn’t work?

Maybe you are looking for an adaptor like this:

https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/dri914332209pms