Interesting door mod I unearthed TOO MUCH BONDO KIDS !!! there are no signs of any physical damage so I tend to believe the oil cans in the door are due to the brazing

These are the 2 oil cans in the door. I tried to find an angle that shows it best, but there wasn't any really good shot. It is actually a bit werse than it looks here.

After a little help from my friends

The remnants of 3 hours of my day. I didn't get any pics but I also stripped the roll bar ( one big dent ) both sail panels ( no issues ) and the cowl ( no issues )

This pleases me

By the way, I'm cleared for Saturday morning wrecker loading duties. I'll meet you at your place at 9. If Scott has not already mailed it, just have him give you the 12 pin connecter I need for my car's engine harness.


Zach

Scotty,

Can you give us some tips on shrinking with the torch? Like how big an area
do you heat, how do you know it is hot enough to quench? How many times
did you heat it and quench it?

I never really could shrink my door dents as much as I wanted.

What was the red stuff you put on the floors?

Thanks,

John

When you say "oil cans in the door", is that slang? What does it mean?

Tow dolly has been reserved and will be picked up at 9am on Sat Looks like the wreck is on its way down.

It's a flaw in a sheetmetal panel caused by being stretched. Typically located in a large, predominantly flat section (like a door panel). Its name refers to its behavior when pushed -- it will pop in or pop out, much like the bottom of an oil squirt-can. Fixing an oil can dent properly requires that the metal be shrunk. (Or you can go with the "trailer" fix -- just pop it in and mud it up.)

Ah, that makes sense.

Dave hit it on the head. As for my method I just played around until I figured it out, so It's kind of hard for me to explain. I just knew how the metal reacts from heat. You need to be able to read dent, basically tell where the outer edges are, figure out WHAT cuased it, and then reverse it. An easy way is the whack the oil can a few times in different locations with a pick hammer backed with a block of wood. This will lock the dent back into place. Next heat and cool ( with a wet rag ) around the outer perimiter of the original oil can. This will shrink the metal back down to hold it tight. Then you can go back to the pick hammer spots and dolly them flat. This will get you alot closer, but if you want a " no filler " repair it will take much more time, and some better tools. John Kelly makes a shriking disc that works well, but takes time to know haow to use it. Time I haven't spent with it yet Most of what I know I figured out on my own, and becuase of that I am not good at explaining how I do it, I just do

I tried to teach a couple of my friends how to snowboard once. they looked at me like I was speaking Gaelic, they went and took a 30 minute class

As most of you probably nkow Mike got the wreck down to me last weekend. I thought I'd post some pics of it and also to show you all how a car reacts, and transfers the impact during an accident.

Keep in mind as you look at these that this was a fairly low speed accident BUT it was against an immovable oblect, not another car that would have contibued to move after being struck.

This is where it starts to get interesting. As you will notiuce alot of the next set of pics are of the DRIVERS side. There is one where my hand is pointing out 2 spots that in the pic are hard to see, but they are where the trunk floor had buckled.

In the pic of the car on jack stanmds the stands are at the same height. That is how much the car twisted at only 35 m.p.h.

How embarrassing

I remember seeing pics of this when the accident happened. I can't remember who the passenger was (maybe he doesn't remember either) but Hicheemama he's lucky!!

Nice to see parts of this car being brought back to life. Glad everyone was okay

Not trying to embarrase you Mike I just thought alot of guys would find the inertia aspect interesting. Now for the happy pic. The front end, sway bar and steering is all swapped over, and I have about half of the front trunk / gas tank hole sanded and ready to prime and color

Oh and um I set the wreck on fire today. Pretty good one too. I was cutting the center tunnel to get access to the wiring harness and fuel lines and apparently there was quite a bit of fuel IN the tunnel Doesn't bode well for saving the lines as it would appear one of them is cracked. I will still get them out to make certain that is the issue and not some odd fuel drain back.

My passenger was Chris (Type11969 ). He is doing well, but he had to endure some dental work....which no one would enjoy

The fuel lines are replaceable, they are converted brake lines and cost me about $10. However, the wiring harness is important to me as I dont have a replacement, I know you do, though.

I am glad that you posted the pics. No worries. People need to see what can happen when you use a brake T, drive too fast, brake coming out of a turn, on cold tires after a morning mist

I would never make light of a lost car and an injured friend; hopefully enough time has passed that you can start to shrug it off and move on, but, um, the front shot of Mike's car on the stands looks like Mater from cars

Click to view attachment

Funny

Was the front end in ok shape? Was that rear shock collapsed?

Front end appeard to be fine. I saw no signs of anything being bent. As for the rear I haven't taken it off yet ( probably tomorrow ) but yes it appears to be collapsed. I was under the back end today looking at how the mount is attatched and looked at that strut up close. Damn shame

in a gut-wrenching sort of way.

You have to be impressed with 35 year old engineering; all those crumpled panels probably absorbed enough impact to have kept this from being worse on the driver and passenger.

Between you and ScottyB I'm sure your new one will be even better!

Ouch!
Hope you're saving the rear flares for the new car Scotty! Those were some great looking flares when I went to pick up my tranny stack.

Hmmmm..... looks like a prime LS1 swap candidate!
Oops - I guess it's getting the sixer...

Jeff

"Scotty, we'd cut that car up out here. You need to have us look for a tub for ya."

What????? Cut that car up????? You West Coast guys kill me; this thing is a cream puff!!!

Nice job guys, the car will be mint when it is done. Looking forward to watching this one.



Sorry, just love the sheep.

THese things amaze me how whell they hold up in an accident. Hit on the passanger's door like that @ 35 mph the only serious loss was a few teeth (and the poor car).

Looks like Rich Toole's son's car; took the hit in the same spot. Your car looks a bit more twisted than his was.

Mike, what was it you hit that stopped the car, a tree or utility pole?

Damn, that was one nice car. Your next one will be even nicer once Scotty does his magic.

You shouldn't be embarrassed; you just got caught out on one of PA's fucked up roads. There are no burms on most PA roads, there was never any forward planning, poor construction and sub-base, and nonexistent maintenance. There are roads around here where if you put a wheel on the white line, you'll be off the road.

A friend at work had a momentary lapse of attention, put one wheel to the right of the white line and instead of being on the burm, he was in a ditch and caused $2500 suspension damage.

A shrinking disk will take that right out...

Updates?

Nope. Working on someone elses car this week

Guys gotta eat

Couple from last week I hadn't downloaded. I kinda like the rally look

That accident was way worse than mine, and I'm over it now. It's kinda fun to start fresh though.

Scotty, I hope this project will be long gone by the time I get back to good 'ol Virginia in October, but I'd like to stop in to look at your work.

Dr Evil, I will definately be stopping by with a tranny for you to work on.

Why I wasn't at Hershey. It was all Mikes fault Drivers door stripped, old holes welded shut and a few pins to pull on. Roll bar holoes filled and pass fender cut to be replaced. If anyonme has a good drivers side contact Mike. We will be needing the same as the pass side.

you find removing a front front easier/better this way - versus removing it at the spot wleds ??

Yes. My replacement also had pretty nasty edges. Mikes new car had good metal on it and there just wasn't any need to drill out all the welds. By putting my weld line on the top of the fender ( where there is more strength ) I will reduce the warping and also will aid in the finish work.

I had the fenders up here... I was hoping to give the m to you at the swap It looks like I have another excuse to come down

Got a little done yesterday before the welder went belly up RIP Hobie ya P.O.S. It's Miller time.


Just in case you weren't aware there was a " little " mud on those rear quarters Mike

Holy crap...

With .319 inch worth of mud, you should just remove the inner layer of steel and go with non-rusting "mud" fenders.....

Yikes. Ah, those crazy mexicans and their magic mud Are the fenders salvageable or will they need another 20# of mud?

shit, I just saw this thread...

Mike I have both doors,

yours if you want them....

free of course...

From this car


Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

white of course...

Little more progress in the last few weeks. I actually have the other rear tacked on but my batteries went dead in the camera

Mo. Cut the existing mud down as much as I could. Much better but still thick

Don't know why but I like this shot for some reason. I wish it was cleaner but Andy grabbed the camera from me.

Andy