Yup it's time for THAT thread. Here's what we start with

The mysterious flaps that people have enquired about before. What lies benath the layers of mud is frightening

Hell piece of cake! that rust is hardly started to pit!

Beneath the FACTORY rockers that were cut up and brazed on A SMALL part of what I scraped off of the drivers rocker and front part of the 1/4 panel

NICE LONGS MAN !!!!

Post whore!.....I just noticed the awful blended rockers...I retract my last statement.......

I gotta get me one of these Califonia cars

Yeah I'm not sure how I feel about the rockers being blended in. Part of me thinks, that done well it might look pretty damn good Same with the rear valance. I'm keeping these things in mind for when I get around to doing my car

I retract my retracted statement....damn!

Scotty, we'd cut that car up out here. You need to have us look for a tub for ya.

scott,

when you are ready for the windshield install, let me know. i have some moulding i promised mike prior to his "incident"........ i will ship it to you when ready.

cheers,

scott

Is there something special about this car that I've missed? Looks like any other one that was abused and rigged up to be abused again.

You've GOT to be shitting me right ?? This thing is PRISTINE for east coast cars. If I had 20 of them to do, I'd have a good living.

We shipped Grasshopper a roller and the total cost including shipping was under $1200.

Scotty,

Is this a customer car? Are you being paid to do the work?

God, I hope so!
Pat

It's Mike's ( Dr Evil to you ) and yes, he be paying

Excuse me, if this is a customers car, a PAYING customer, then I reconize that it is indeed a rare model worth every penny spent.

you will be transferring everything possible over from his 6 - correct?

if you need any help mounting the tach -let me know

jim

Yes and HELL NO !!!!

Oooo, that is in good shape. Total cost = $1150 shipped. Cant beat that Yes, I would not ask Scotty to do a free/swap for work deal on this project. He is, deservedly, getting some of the insurance $$ from the crash. He is still working for slave wages, though. I have a reputation to keep

If that fuel pump works I might could use it on the bus for the 4bbl

I should have a bunch of weekends that I can come down and drop off the car and work on the bus while you are doing the 914, etc I dont work a weekend for the next 2mo or so.

Bus is coming home this week. Glass guy called today and said he'll be down tomorrow. I'm running out of room at work I guess that's a good thing

Oh, so you are certain they will be able to install the glass AND that they havent shortened it too much?

NO. I have zero expectations on that windshiled or any other ever going in that bus unbroken and permanently

Glad to see the "Great and Most Evil Dr. Evil" is getting everything settled regarding his 914.

Steve Hurt

HA. I was waiting for this to surface. I must have donated this car to you over 6 months ago. I could not even go 2 months with out some sort project and ended up buy a '72 driver.

Good Luck!!

BTW I had nothing to do with all that special body work

Glad to know. I called someone a few interesting names in regards to ruining those rocker panels I can still use them, along with a set of rusty ones I have, to make one good set.

I actually got that car from a guy on this board with plans on restoring it but due to being in my senior year of college with no time I decided to let it go. It did look like there was quit a bit of custom bondo going on there. Actually kinda glad it is your problem now
I think his name was Richard Linsdal?

BTW
What was the deal with the home made flares? Didnt they have 1/2" solid rod inside the lip.

Keeping it in the family

Scotty, I am wanting some rockers that flare out at the bottom at the ends. I know you can do that

Ha, that was interesting. The original lip was cut completely off, then the fender was bent outwards and the lip was brazed back on with a slight extension....I think...... I'm not real sure what the goal was, it MIGHT have yielded an extra 1/4" of tire clearance. In addition there was a couple pounds of brass rod and a couple pounds of bondo added to make it look better. Ont he plus side the original lip could probably be reused on another car if someone had one that only the lip was butcherd on. I guess I'll save them for now.

Mike do you want the antenna hole welded up? What about the windshield squirters ? Right now I'm going to get the interior cleaned up and painted and start stripping the hood. That will keep me busy until the other car gets here

Guys I don't give a damn what your paint rep says DO NOT PAINT OVER FLASH RUST !!! This is what happens. I stripped close to half of this hood with a razor blade. The larger pieces are just a few that came off that way. Two are upside down so you can see the rust attatched to the paint.

Ik, I want the antenna hole welded as well as the side marker light holes please

Done. How about the windshield squirter holes

I want the squirter holes, I use them for the windshield and have mine converted to power.

WooWhooo!!!

Another one coming to life....

Alright, so whats your recommendation, wirebrush, rustmort(conversion), metal etch primer and then go from there???

Just curious, as it looks like I am taking on the painting of my dad 911sc as a side project.

Kyle

I wonder if the Doc will still be interested in 914s when he is a rich Beverly Hills plastic surgeon??

Can't wait to see Scotty's magic on this one.

Looking good Scotty... Can't wait to see Evil back on the road!

And for those who aren't from the east coast...I wasn't too surprised to find this behind my fiberglass:

Click to view attachment

And that was the good side

you're a brave man, scotty.

I have a "nice" tr6 needing some work when your done with the docs car.
however it is NOT from CA.

This is so weird to me, having someone else doing the work on my car. Its a real change as I always do everything except body and paint.

lookin good so far,

I removed the oil tank tonight. I had to cut it out as the frame twisted enough to make it impossible to remove normally It was not a big deal. I tried to pull the wiring harness so that I could check and fix anything, but the center tunnel was so bent and the /6 mount being in the way made it a job I am going to need Scotty to do. The mount needs to be removed at least. I am thinking of towing it down next weekend. I can get a tow dolly for free supposedly and I have a tow package on my VUE. I just need to install the trailer wiring.

Are you going to do the same body/ tire package as before? I think it was a narrow bodied w/rolled fenders and 16 or 17's...

Ya, same package. 17x 7.5 front, and 17x 9 in the rear.

[quote name='Solo914' date='Feb 19 2009, 10:00 PM' post='1135983']
--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 19 2009, 04:02 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Guys I don't give a damn what your paint rep says DO NOT PAINT OVER FLASH RUST !!! This is what happens. I stripped close to half of this hood with a razor blade. The larger pieces are just a few that came off that way. Two are upside down so you can see the rust attatched to the paint.
[/quote]


Alright, so whats your recommendation, wirebrush, rustmort(conversion), metal etch primer and then go from there???

Just curious, as it looks like I am taking on the painting of my dad 911sc as a side project.

Kyle
[/quote]

Sand, metal etch primer, sealer, bondo, sealer, paint. I start stripping with 36 grit to speed things up, then finish sanding the panle clean with 80 grit. IMO 36 is too much gouge to start painting over. I like to knock that down with the 80. Etch primer is the BEST way but to keep costs down you can use the now popular epoxy primer. just talk to your paint rep about which product he recommends over top of bare metal. If the panel sits bare for a while make sure to run over it again wiuth the 80 grit on a da.

Looking at a possible trip down this Sat to drop off the wreck. I have teh VUE wired up for towing, now and this weekend is free (minus gas and lodging fees ).

FOUND IT !!! there's ALWAYS one somewhere. This time it was tucked into the far back end of the drivers long

I hit the rusty spots on the floor with a wire brush, went over the whole thing with 150 grit, etched, and sealed it. Drivers rear will need some metal in it.