My 914, if I drive it awhile, especially on the highway, will slowly get hotter and hotter. I was wondering what the easiest way to check if the flaps/thermostat were working. I can get to the top of the linkage, but does anyone know of a good way to prop it open? I was going to prop it open, go on a long drive and then see if the engine ran cooler...

Any ideas for testing it?

The bellows pulls the flaps closed when cold. There is a spring on top that pulls against the bellow so that when it gets hot and expands the flaps will open. if you disconect the wire, on top of the engine, coming up to the flaps the spring should pop the flaps open.

then do your test drive....

-Mike D.

If you can push down on the tab where the wire connects then they're already in the "maximum cooling" position. If that tab is staying all the way down then they're stuck in the "run hot" position. But I have seen quite a few engines where the flaps are gone or attached in a certain position by the PO, so make sure that it does move.

Darn, it looks like the flaps are already in the full cool position and in fact, the cable isn't connected. They do move freely (with resistance from the spring). So I guess the flaps being closed isn't the problem.

Next I'm going to try retarding the timing slightly to see if that help.

The only other thing I guess it could be is a lean mixture, although it gets really hot in stop and go traffic as well.

I have an external cooler (mounted flat on the bottom of the trunk), that I plan installing an electric fan on to help that cool. But right now, it will get fairly hot on even a coolish day (say 80 degrees)...

Take brake cleaner and blow it UP at the bottom of the factory engine mounted oil cooler. I'm betting it is 80% blocked. It could also be that your oil cooler seals are semi crushed.

Do you have a real gauge and real sending unit ? Has the car always had a temp gauge or did you add a factory unit ?


B

i wouldnt think a trunk mounted oil cooler would be the hot tip..... what about ubder the car in some of the air flow? (assuming you dont run a front setup)

Under trunk mounted oil coolers are worthless. I have 3 sitting here taken from cars with front mounted coolers now. Even with a fan.. all the fan is doing is moving the heated air from the exhaust around the oil cooler. If you want a real live working solution.. it will be front mounted (promise)


B

The wonderful gauge that Porsche used in the car was for oil temps... Not head temps- They are barely related.

Oil temps are a result of RPM/friction and head temps are a result of load.

Oil temps respond slowly to changes, head temps respond immediately.

Sounds like your engine is either out of tune of misconfigured. You need a CHT gauge as well- every aircooeld car needs one.

Sounds like what I need to do is:

- Adjust the valves (it's due anyway)

- Adjust timing, etc

- Clean out factory oil cooler
Can I get to that from under the car? Do I need to remove anything to get to it?

I'm resistant to adding a front oil cooler, just because I don't want to cut up the car, what are my options there? Any good websites describing good installs?


I realize that the trunk mounted cooler isn't the best option, but it keeps me from chopping up the car.

What are some recommendations on CHT gauges and how they attach to engine?

ok... last post...

I did a bunch of research on old posts... I guess I need to go with the front oil cooler, but I need to figure out if I can do something with the stock LE valance and get decent airflow...

What are the GT oil cooler shrouds? I went to GT-Racing.com, but I don't see them.

I have a front mounted oil cooler with an LE Spoiler,, I will have to take some pictures for you, the car is in the shop right now, but no problem with a LE spoiler and a front mounted oil cooler. I also have a CHT mounted on the 3rd cylinder to monitor head temp.

Some pictures would be great...

Heres an old thread with a shot of my cooler mounted up front.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...T&f=2&t=280&hl=

Guy's, I have been driving a stock FI 2.0 with no external oil cooler around Los Angeles, winter and summer, for 8 years and have never had an over heating problem. I guess adding 8 qt. of oil is one solution but shouldn't there be better more correct solution.

just a thought,
Mike D.

This thread of mine shows what I found when I pulled the tin off my motor. You may have a similar condition. Notice the high level of debris around the number 5 sparkplug. Uhh... wait a second...

-Ben M.

If you've never pulled the motor, pull it, remove all the tin, clean the crap out of it and put it back together. You'll be amazed how much junk is in there.

Glad I'm not the only one that has found a #5 spark plug. I found the wrench, too!

As you know, JW (Otto) was pretty strongly opposed to cutting up that car for a front cooler, and I agreed with that - sounds like you do too.

Did you ever try tilting the cooler and/or adding a fan, as I think you mentioned a while back?

I would tend to agree with the other guys that something is either clogged or out-of-tune, as in regular street driving the car should not run hot. The cooler is really for "extreme" conditions like track DE's or extended high-speed cruising.

Or maybe the thermostat isn't opening? I'm not sure how reliable those Mocal sandwich plates are.

BTW the gauge is the replacement (numbered) VDO "cockpit" series one, with matching sender, that is typically used to replace the OE center console ones. The sender is in the stock taco plate location. I doubt the gauge is out of whack, but it's certainly possible. They can be tested/calibrated via a boiling-water test but it's a PITA. You may want to double-check the temps with a pyrometer.

Oh yeah...forgot to ask, exactly how hot are we talking about?

I think all Type4's run hot by nature...if you're seeing 220 or even 230 in sustained high-speed or stop/go driving in warmish weather, I personally wouldn't worry. Run a good quality oil and change it often.

If you're seeing 240 or above, I would definitely start to worry. Most guys seem to agree that 250 is the "holy crap" oil temp point for 914 as well as 911 air-cooled engines.

If not 'controlled' somehow, those engines will try to shoot right up to 270-300 in some circumstances. Heat management is not a strong point of that engine design, I guess.

I'm opposed to cutting up the car for a front cooler, but I'm also opposed to lunching the engine because it gets too hot... maybe I ought to pull the engine. It would be fun to detail the engine compartment anyway...

My oil temps get up to over 230 easy...

Chris... I guess I could look, but is the sandwich plate the one with the built in thermostat, or is the thermostat separate.

I've never put a fan on it, but right now, it will get overly hot on even a 70 degree day....

Thanks for all the advice...

I'm pretty sure it's got the Mocal sandwich plate w/ the built-in t-stat.

Pulling the motor for a thorough cleaning, valve adjustment, detailing, etc. is probably a great plan. Simply cleaning and tightening everything up on these old cars seems to make 'em happy sometimes...