Guys:
Tried search but came up empty .
I am installing front cooler in conversion. Thought I would make a change from last one.
I would like to run lines thru bulkhead and under gas tank (without removing it) and thru blower opening to heater tubes in longitudinals.
1. Can this work
If so.....
2. need a specific reference point from which to locate holes in bulkead so as to clear everything .
Any and all help is appreciated ...

Oh one more ....placing cooler at front inside trunk. Have shroud. CAn I exit air through inner fender wells ( I know I will need holes in side of shroud and ducting ......or is there a better plan.
Thanks
TOT

well my $.02 is to do it the old fashioned way. To many tight bends for big 12/16 line the way you describe. My blog thread has my routing on it which you should be able to do without removing your tank.

Josh

There are probably just as many ways and ideas on how to run oil lines as there are conversions out there!

Here's what I did; follow the pictures - there is a channel under the gas tank that you can run the oil lines through, and you don't need to remove the tank. You need to cut holes in the lower corners of the front trunk area, and in the foot wells. You can then run them into the heater ducts in the rockers then back all the way to the engine (no pics of this, but you get the idea).

On the passengers side, I chose to run the oil line up higher so it wasn't on the floor for fee to hit - so I had to remove the tank. But in my race car, the lines go all the way through onto the bottom - where I currently have the power line that you see.

Here you can see where it's under the gas tank, and where it WOULD come out if you just ran it all the way through the channel on the passengers side - down where the power line is.

Couple of things ...


1. Running under the tank is easy, there's already a boxed section that will fit two oil lines nicely. See Pics below.

2. Venting through fender wells works, but will significantly heat up your brakes and tires. Probably not a problem for a street car, but for a track car, that's a no no ...
I'm currently venting mine out the bottom using the two large holes in the front trunk that are plugged by the factory with those round metal caps. Works well enough but eventually, i will make a shroud to vent up and out the hood.

3. Running oil lines inside the long. Works but you will have to make a pretty tight bend getting out of the long in the front, either on top of on the side.
Either way, you'll have a hard time not to kink the lines and restrict oil flow.
I just ran the lines on the inside next to the pass. long. Straight shot to the rear and i added a thermostat inside the rear firewall, close to the engine.

Andy





Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


more pix here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94924

Hey, just noticed you're in SC. Where? Close enough to Charlotte to come take a look? I'd be happy to help out where I can...

Andy,
I am actually considering re-routing my oil cooler hot air out into the fender wells. Think about it: right now, we vent HOT air UNDER the car, not very aerodynamic, huh? I know at high speed, I can feel the front lift a bit...

plus, all 911's have the oil coolers in the front of the fender wells, meaning they are venting the warm air onto the brakes/wheels. But lets be honest, 200 degree air is actually cool compared to the brake temps, and a little extra heat on the tires will get some extra grip sooner IMO.

oh, the reroute is in Papa Smurf, the race car, not Huey. no need there...

Just to add....on the pass side, if you want to follow the holes that Andy did (I recommend it so you don't have to remove the tank), you can also run the lines into the rockers by removing the plug right where he has it run up against the inner rocker - just below the vent tube hole.

IMHO, under the car is the lesser of the two evils. We've done some substantial testing with the 911 and the worst we got was from venting the air into the fender wells.
The brakes got too hot (even with air ducts to the brakes) and the tires were running hotter. That didn't help grip at all, in fact, quite the opposite was true.

That's why i'm going to build a shroud and vent out the top of the hood. No hot air under the car, no hot air in the wheel wells.
Andy

Huh? Hanging around new cars too much?

We run a center mounted front cooler on the 911 ('78) that vents under the car.
But we do have a really low valance to minimize air getting under the car.
We tried the fender coolers, but that didn't work at all for us.

The rules for GTS and SP911 do not allow for hood vented coolers, otherwise that's what we would run.
Andy

Oh, i agree, out the top of the hood is best, I just don't want to cut into my carbon fiber front hood.... I guess I'm just looking at the fact that just about all 911's (at least from a 964 and up) have the coolers in the wheel wells, meaning they obviously vent there.

I would think under the car would be the worst thing you can do: you are expanding the air and forcing under the car, creating lift. At 140 mph, my car feels like its going to take off! One colder day, I taped off the oil cooler and it felt soooo much better and more planted.

Then again, I have actually the opposite problem that I can never get ENOUGH heat in the tires. I run 11' wide slicks up front, and the car is so light, I don't get them heated up. I'm hoping venting a bit of warmer air will help. We'll see....

See sixaddict? There are as many ways to do it as there are people....

Yep.... I have a 993 and take cues off of it when I can... Like my 993 brakes on my 914...

.

On my race car, both dash 12 lines run through the right side heater ducts and through a single hole in the front bulkhead. I was concerned about the return line picking up heat but found it was not an issue. I have a vent that exits under the front trunk and have seen not issues with additional air as I, like Andy run a very deep front spoiler. If you do vent out the top, through the front deck lid you'll pick up some slight amount of down force due to the air exiting. In any case you will get the best cooling effect from fabricating some aluminum ducting to help the air get into the cooler and out the car instead of letting it just move around on it's own.

You can get some garden hose and run it from the engine to/from the cooler and use that to figure how long the actual lines have to be since measuring something like this is nearly impossible. When I did mine I actually added an extra foot over the hose length and it was needed!