I don't understand what the newest problem is.
Does the starter turn?
Does the fuel pump turn on for a couple seconds when you turn the key?
Using your multimeter, can you measure 12v at the coil + side when the key is on?

The starter will crank, but no power at the coil... I have a feeling there are going to be allot of new problems. I just want to see if I can get fuel and spark at this point. I seem to be getting injector pulse from the brain, and I believe from all of the routing diagrams I have mustered-up on the internet and all of your guys help I think I have all the plumbing and electrical hooked up correctly. My issue right now is just my stupidity pulling that ignition out too far...

Post a close up pic of the coil wiring.

Rich

Here are some pics of the car...

some more...

I will do that in the morning... the ignition harness was just cut out of the car from the previous owner without a care thinking he was going to convert it to carbs. I had to add length to it so that they would reach.

Tracing backwards from the coil, with the key on:

Unplug the rearmost connector and check for power at pin 7 on the relay board.
Unplug the forward connector and check for power at pin 8 in the connector.
Check for power at fuse 9.

well it appears I don't have pin 8 or 9 on the ignition harness...does this look correct?

Here are the volt readings with the ignition on. Both fuses on the relay board show 12.7

The ign. harness was cut. I had to add length... the wires shown are not the correct color so I labled the photos. Please let me know if this looks right.

I am not getting spark from the coil.

Thanks...

I checked the foreword connector at pin 8 and it reads 12.1
The car came with new points that I put in, plus I put in a new coil, but the condeser is not. Do you think it could be the issue?

Was your plug messed with?
Your coil is correctly wired in.

In the pic here is what is supposed to be:
1 - Oil pressure switch, correct @0v
3- Blank, correct
5- Tach wire from (-) terminal on coil, black and purple, should not read 12.7v.
7- B+ to (+) side of coil, key on power, black and red
9- Blank, correct
11- Heater blower power, taken from the fuse on the board that also powers the fuel pump and AAR. You should only get volts here when the heater blower is switched on.

So the green heater wire shouldn't be plugged into the coil... it should go to the heater blower... ok. Yes, the White, Black/Purple, Green/Red & Green wires were cut...

Ya, that would explain the power on the pin. That would be bad for your condenser also.

Now I have spark, but very weak... just enough to give me a tingle. So that would lead me to believe the condenser is going? Right?

Thank you for your help!

OK... I put a new condenser on and it seems to be stronger but the dizzy isn't distibuting a spark... what do you think... a new plate?

What do you mean it wont distribute? How do you know it is making spark? I need a little more info.

the plug wire off the coil is creating a spark, but the four plug wires off the cap are not.

Ah, is the rotor installed? There is no reason other than mechanical that the spark should not be propagated through the cap.

ok I think im good...I put the tester on it and its getting a signal. I think its fuel? I asked earlier in the thread which line was the return line... the fat one or the thinner one?

Thanks again for all your help.

Mike, this'll have power if the points are closed.

Mark, ya, but he said the power for the blower was wired in there.

Fat is in thin is out.

Does it matter which way the fuel injector lead wires are plugged in. They fits either way.

Update: I have her starting up but zero idle. What areas can I make adjustments to keep her idling? Thanks...

OK... have a vid, the sound is terrible., but here it is:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29595713@N00/3857329271/


What is happening is it starts right up and dies... if I apply the throttle it stumbles, pops revs up and if I press on the throttle again it starts to hunt almost die then rev up again... I have to constantly prime the throttle to get the RPMs up. If I leave the throttle in one spot it will die.

Sorry for the poor quality...

I'd check fuel pressure and timing first.

***Update*** Ditched the old motor. Oil leaks, rust and water issues. So I purchased another motor transfered all the FI from the old and slapped her in there and got her to start. Now I have a new issue... whats new right. Doing a bit of research I have what I think is a type 2 motor or bus engine. I figured out most of the odd diffs but this one. Next to each of the intakes on the head is a small 1/4" or so hole for something? It runs, but very loud. Do any of you know what I can do to plug these or put what ever is supposed to be there? In the pic I have a pair of pliers pointing to it. There are x4 of these one next to each intake.

Thanks...

New Motor Pic

It is hard to tell, but the small threaded holes, next to each intake runner are probably screw holes for the sheet metal tin. They thread directing into the head, right? If so, you can leave them as is, or screw a sheet metal screw into them to tie the tin further down.

Also, that is a very interesting intake. Where does it go once it goes down to the right side of the engine?

I hope that helps.

It's off a BMW I don't have the cone on there yet... the holes go all the way to the chamber. They light up when the engine is running. Pretty cool to watch, but I have had my fill...

Ah, this makes sense now.

These are the Air Injector ports that go into the exhaust ports. On later and CA 914s, they inject air into the exhaust to try to burn off the hydrocarbons that were not completely burned in the power stroke.

This is also why the engine is so loud.

Plug them up as you do not need them, unless you are in CA.

How do you suggest?

Whatever engine you have is a '75-'76.

I used the air injection tubes capped with a 3/8" pipe cap (hey, it works)

You can also use bolts threaded in. Can't remember thread pitch & diameter though.

It would be nice to remove the heads and have the air injection ports heli-arced up from the inside of the exhaust port though.

Hey if some one knows the length thread and diameter it would save me a ton of trips to the hardware store... thanks all for helping me out. I love this site.

I'll check in in a bit if I can and measure the pitch & diameter.

While possibly not the correct thread,

M10 X 1.25 - 50 mm long

or

3/8" X 16 - 2" long

They will thread in and lock. I think it's a pipe type thread in the head anyway.

I have been working on the brakes for the last couple of weekends and starting her up every once and awhile. This weekend I went to start her up and she bubbered and died. All it will do now is crank.

I will elaborate what I have done so far...

1. Checked the aux. air valve to make sure it wasn't stuck in the closed position. OK Warms up when connected to the battery. Not sure if it is supposed to warm up with just the ignition on?

2. Cleaned the trigger points. This sparked a reaction but only for a second

3. The fuel pump turns on. I don't have a pressure tester, so I can test it.

4. I put in a new head temp sensor. (no effect)

5. New vacuum hoses (no effect)

6. Checked the TPS with the ignition on. I counted 20 pops through the entire range of the throttle stroke. (if this is right let me know or if it even matters)

I went back to the trigger points since I got some sort of reaction. I thought maybe the plastic bushings on the points where getting worn so I ever so slightly bent them inward (1mm) (no Change)

My gut tells me its the dizzy, what steps can I take to rule it out. (I have put in a new cap, rotor and points and since the motor originally was carbed made sure the timing gear for the distributor was pointing to TDC for the trigger points to work properly)

When I crank it, I am not even getting a hick-up. ARRRG...

Did you reinspect your points to see if they are fried?

SLITS is right. M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long with a pressed fit. Cap it off.

Tom

Points look good...I am getting spark. I checked pulse to injectors (Good) I just don't know if they are working in tandem? It just cranks... thats it.

Bump

I'd start a new thread. Put a link to this thread in the first post and then describe the new issue.