If the side with the problem is running lean, then the good cylinder will be pulling all the fuel its' way, leaving the choked cylinder dry? then when you sprayed cleaner in it all of a sudden had fuel and sparked up for a bit?

This is my feeling, just a feeling because I am far from knowing the ins and outs of cars. I know just enough to screw myself over.

I think there is so much oil in the combustion chamber that it's not able to do a proper fuel and air mixture and it will not fire properly. #1 is the only plug that has come out black. And it was black right after I put a new one in and ran it for 5 minutes. And not a burnt black , but just a soaked in oil looking black. If that makes sense.

I would think too that spraying the carb cleaner down in there is also loosening up some of the old crud in that #1 and making a black half oil have carb cleaner like substance. It has to be really ugly looking in #1 if it hasn't been firing properly for some time.

I'm not real comfortable with carbs, but I think I will see where the adjustments are in relation to the two carbs. I guess I could turn the screws all the way in and count the turns and make a note on each one.

How many screws are there to adjust on one of these carbs?

Exactly my thoughts too.. The reason that piston may be making compression is that it is sooo full of crud that it's reducing the swirl area. It needs to be cleaned out - which running at tickover is not going to do, it needs to be revved under load to clean te sucker out, but is it getting fuel in the first place.

With regards to the adjustment on your specific carb - sorry, but I have 0 idea.

Try the carb cleaner spray on the outside of all the seals. It's very easy to do and could yield big results. You should have no change in engine tune if the gaskets are ok.

I will try this first and then move onto trying to adjust the carb and clean the main jet or if that's what it's called.

I think Zach pointed me to the correct screw for the main jet.

Just a WAY shot in the dark..... have you checked the oil level?
Is it way too high?

Also instead of carb cleaner, you could repeat the squirt test with some starting fluid.

If that side is starved, it will rev higher.

Stu

You pulled the rocker covers, but did you check the valve lash? There can be a very big impact when the lash isn't correct. The engine must be stone cold - do not run it the day you plan to adjust.

Lots of links out there to how this is done. You only need basic tools and some time.

http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0106vwt_va...ment/index.html

http://www.aircooledvwlove.com/how-to-adju...oled-vw-engine/

http://www.vw-resource.com/valve_adjust.html

A leaking intake manifold gasket will normally result in a lean condition - spraying starting fluid around the base of the carb and manifold to head should quickly reveal any leaks.

Your plugs are showing extreme oil deposits / carbon fouling.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg

An improperly gapped plug / bad plug wire / fouled cap or rotor can make the plug not fire. Be aware that under compression, your plug may not fire, even though it fires when you pull it and look at it.

It's cheap to adjust your valves, put new a cap, rotor, points (or get a Petronix) and wires.

Lastly, pull the main coil wire, and after you've adjusted the rockers to the proper lash, leave the cover off and have someone crank over the motor - watch and make sure the rocker arms are actually moving - it may be a rounded off lob on the camshaft. It's easy to check and see with the cover off.

When you're at higher rpm's, it's easy to mask one cylinder not working properly.

HTH,

I checked the valves and adjusted the ones that needed it. It's toward the beginning of this maze of posts.

I watched the rocker arms move while I rotated the tire. They all seemed to be working properly.

My plugs are new and at the proper gap.

I'm going to head out and work on the fuel delivery.

Yes, I checked the oil and added some. IT leaks plenty to never be too full.

Probably will be the last progress report because I think this motor has a few internal issues that will need to be addressed out of the car. Probably best fixed with another motor. I'd give it a full tune up and rebuild the carbs, but I don't think it will matter. Thanks for all the help and ideas everybody.

I got the carb linkage sorted out the best I could. Left carb lost a bolt (out of two) that holds the linkage bracket so the bracket was drooping and slightly opening the throttle plate a touch. Bolt was gone because the threads are stripped! Tightened the one up the best I could, but it will end up moving. Adjusted the small linkage so the throttle plate would close. Checked the main jets and they were clean. Adjusted the carbs the best I could and listened to the air going in through a hose and they were pretty dang close.

Took it out for a drive and the noises are still there of course. Seemed a little more tolerable though; probably because I don't care anymore if the motor blows up. The car was running a lot smoother though, but smelled rich. It actually felt pretty good.

I've actually got it down to two noises. The main noise is more of a quick clacking or rattle type noise which varies depending on the throttle input; and the second is more of a BLAP noise at higher rpm or hard acceleration it seems.

I can make the noises disappear at around 3500 RPM on flat ground and in a couple other instances. Kind of nice and peaceful at that moment.

I can make the motor smoke a lot like a James Bond smoke screen at 4000 RPM and above. It's a pretty blue smoke and lots of it. If I stay there at the high rpm it will just smoke steady. I've also got clean oil coming out of the top of the motor somewhere at high rpm and bathing everything in the center of the engine compartment. Might be the oil pressure sensor. I'm not even going to look into it at this point.

Saw a greenish 914 at the Conway Shell station on my adventure. (I think I've seen it a few times) I thought about going to look at it, but I didn't want to show off my smelly and clacking car if the owner came out.

Thanks for the help, Sam

I had time and I went out and bought a new compression tester and a solid long extension so I could get a good reading on all the cylinders. (The first tester I used was old timey and had a rubber nipple and I believe gave me a false reading of 140ish on #1 and 120 on #3. I couldn't even access #2 and #4 with it.) I warmed the engine up on a 10 minute or so easy drive. I removed all the plugs and opened the throttle while I turned over the engine several times and I checked each cylinder and double checked. I got readings of
#1=85 #2=90 #3=74 #4=92
give or take one or two on each. Assuming this gauge works right and I hopefully did it right, these readings are not so great. I believe it's time to do the engine shuffle so I can explore the inside of this one.
Sam

Agreed, those compressions aren't great. take it out do a strip down and see whats going on. New rings and rebuild.

did you see this over at the pelican site?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...e-4-engine.html

no affiliation. but might save you a few bucks if you are going to do a stock rebuild

Thanks for the link.

Wow, what a difference in compression. NOW things are starting to make sense. If the engine is warm (it would be on a 10 minute drive) and the throttle was open (you said it was) and your valves are right (you just checked them) then it is rebuild time. Your engine is just plain old at the end of its duty cycle.

Zach

Yes, a working tester is crucial. 145 didn't make much sense.
Bummer though, I didn't know all this before I bought it. I guess I was due to get burned at some point.
Thanks for all your help,
Sam

Its a 30 year old car. This kind of stuff is going to happen. We will be here for help and moral support along the way.

Zach